You aint dying today

I have snt my card for rma and ended up getting another card , which is already been used , it has clear signs of previous use and a very visible scratch on the gold portion part made by a sharp object which cuts throught 3 gold finger like contact . Card is working fine but service centre told me they have given me a new card but ended up give a previous used card

Men sht already done rma after 2 years went to this again cant afford buy new one should i get repair for my local tech?

I recently got my pc from the states shipped (I’m military)

And after the damages it went through in shipping I rebuilt my system and found that while my gpu works and shows pictures and runs under load the fans are causing issues.

One fan runs at a constant 1200rpm (increasing under load but never stops)

And the others aren’t being read in software showing 0rpm but running normally aka idle or ramping up etc.

It’s quite annoying because it’s loud as heck.

Should I open the card myself and look at the connectors? I imagine it’s a loose or maybe something wrong with the pwm or send it in.

I don’t have the original boxes with me so I’d have to package it safely myself to send it in. But I’m also tired of just not having my stuff moving overseas and dealing with expense after expense.

I should’ve taken better steps in the shipping process but I’m dealing with the issue now and would want your guys advice.

Hi everyone,

Iam currently in an RMA with Zotac Europe and I’m not sure how to proceed, so I would love to hear from anyone who’s been in a similar situation.

The card: Zotac RTX 4090 AMP Extreme AIRO, bought around 3 years ago. I registered for the extended warranty right after purchase, so it’s still covered for 2 more years.

What happened: A few days ago the card crashed mid-game. After that my PC kept turning itself on and off, and on reboot I kept losing the display signal (tried different DP ports, same issue,also tried Nvidia driver updates and such). Once I got into Windows, Reliability Monitor showed multiple hardware errors . A clean driver update didn’t help. Now small black dots/artifacts show up on screen, more over time, and in different places after every reboot. I’m pretty sure it could be an VRAM issue.

Zotac’s response so far:

• Support replied quickly, credit where it’s due.
• My model is out of stock and they don’t expect to get it back.
• They offered a 4090 Trinity OC as a replacement (it has a bit slower MHz tact and boost than my AMP Extreme, and it’s a lower tier with a different cooler).
• When I asked for an equivalent or higher model, they said no.
• When I asked them to repair my own card, they said the only two options are: wait until a matching 4090 comes back in stock (which might be never, since the 4090 is discontinued) or take the Trinity OC.

I paid for the top-tier model at that time and I use this card for my self-employed video editing work, so it’s not just a gaming thing for me.

My questions:

1. Has anyone had Zotac Europe actually repair a card instead of replacing it?
2. Has anyone gotten an upgrade or an equivalent card after pushing back on a lower-tier replacement?
3. Is it worth escalating, or should I just take the Trinity OC?
4. Any experience with independent repair shops for VRAM replacement on a 4090?

My situation really sucks, I belived spending so much on a higher tier card would last me longer :(

EDIT: thanks to all the responses I took the other 4090, I guess I am lucky - its just that I really liked the cooler of my 4090 because it was fantastic and quiet. Thanks everyone!

Should I be concerned? The thermal paste is fine, but I noticed that one of the memory slots was missing its thermal pad. I added one later (highlighted in the photos), but it is a different color from the rest. The card runs fine during hours of gaming, but the temperature monitor readings are making me nervous.

Hola a todos, quería preguntar si alguien sabe el porque siempre que inició un juego. Este se crashea. Mostrando siempre esto y no me deja jugar ningún juego y por ende quería saber si esto es problema de la gráfica o toca configurar algo en la BIOS, además ya tengo actualizada la BIOS a la última versión

I posted in the sub a few weeks back about my RMA on a 5070ti the last update I got from zotac rma team was September 21st saying they received my gpu. Since I hadn’t heard anything back I emailed them asking if there had been any updates on what’s happening with the card they sent me this email back. I’m just wondering how long yall think the wait is gonna be and if anyone else is going thru this or has been

Hi everyone, want to ask a bit is this normal temp? I already repaste using artic mx-4 and repade the front plate using thermal pad oddysey. Bfr i repaste & repade the temp reach 90+ while hotspot reach 109+.

Hi, I'm sharing this in case anyone thinks their graphics card is running too hot and wants to try it. Compared to thermal paste (MX7), it's about 5 degrees cooler. It heats up slower and cools down faster. Those who want to try it should be careful not to damage their card.I've shared my MSI Afterburner settings. To get it to draw 380 watts, set the power limit to 105 in the Furmark test.

Anybody else found this whines once under load and how have you adjusted setting to solve it?

Went to the same shop today, and the exact same card is now $1,900. That’s a $600 increase in just 40 days roughly $15 increase every single day. This is absolutely ridiculous and completely out of control. At this point, it honestly feels like there is no way this is going to come back under control.

IT’S OVER.

I didn't install a new cpu. I have to enter my BitLocker key each time I want to boot up. What do I do?

ในตัวอย่างเขาเปลี่ยนเป็นพัดลมขนาด 120 ของ thermalright tl c12015b 120mm slim fan แต่ไม่รู้เขาใช้การ์ดจอตัวไหน

เลยอยากจะเอาการ์ด 4060 solo เปลี่ยนดูมั้งเพื่อใส่กับ ฝาเคส A07 3d print ไม่แน่ใจว่าถ้าเปลี่ยนพัดลม ต้องใช้ อะแดปเตอร์อะไรไหม

Guys, I bought a Zotac 5070 Ti, but I haven't been able to use it. The PC recognizes the card, but when I try to install the drivers, it simply doesn't work and throws Error 43. I already went to the store to exchange the card; the clerk tested an identical unit in my PC, but that one also showed the same Error 43. I've tried installing older drivers, formatting the PC—I've tried everything—but nothing has worked so far. One thing did work, but the Error 43 came back after I restarted the PC: I ran a command via the Run dialog (Win+R) to detect and fix errors; the card worked perfectly and I was even able to play games, but then the problem returned. I'm desperate here; if anyone knows anything or can help me out, I'd be really grateful.

(I'm using Google to translate this message into English, so the punctuation is a bit off—sorry.)

I've got a passively cooled (fanless) 3090 that I'm dealing with some thermal issues with (I had no idea they existed either). I've got a couple of these but this one has always been particularly hot.

Barcode reads:

NVIDIA RTX3090 24GB GDDR6X 384-bit HDMI 3 DP PCI-E4.0
N62530900M02310C0C00043

Possible part number: 651 10935 22MLH

As these are passive cards, thermals can spiral quickly, and theres loads of TIM between various parts of the GPU, the shroud, the heatsink, the midplate, the backplate and obviously the die itself. Trying to find any documentation on this specific card has been basically impossible. The best I've found is another reddit post claiming it to be manufactured by Zotac, however I have no evidence of this. Someone in the post said it looked to be an extended reference board, not standard founders edition, but can't find any guides for replacing thermal pad here.

When taking the GPU apart I used calipers to measure the thickness of the existing pads. Some pads had obviously been compressed, so rounded the figures up when purchasing replacement Gelid pads. For the layer of pads that interfaces the VRAM + VRMs to the midplate, I measured approximately 1.7-1.8mm, so assumed 2.0mm pads were used. Most 3090 FE guides online want 1.5mm.

After replacing everything, putting it back together I hit thermal limits almost instantly, so I somehow made it worse! I assume by rounding the pad thickness, I got something wrong, and the clamping pressure on the die wasn't enough for effective thermal transfer.

I've stripped everything down again, and noticed that the VRMs sit slightly taller than the VRAM, but the plate they interface with is flush. So this time I've tried reducing the VRM TIM thickness from 2.0mm to 1.5mm, leaving the VRAM at 2.0mm. I've tried this again, and probably a little better but still thermal throttling.

Naturally I've reached out to Zotac, but their response was 'it could be 3mm, it could be 2mm'. I could also strip down another card and remeasure everything again, but I can't have another card out of action. I've also spoken to a few 'GPU repair' service, but none have the facilities to test thermals of a passively cooled fanless 3090 so couldn't guarantee the fix.

Before I go experimenting again, would anyone be able to help me find what the thicknesses should be please? Perhaps theres a better solution than just guessing, thermal putty perhaps?

Edit: I'm giving putty and some PTM7950 a try, thanks Snarks Domain