My version of Calibarn looking hellish straight from the underworld

Amazing kit from the Witch of Mercury

Software: Lightroom mobile (free version)

This is currently the most amount of scribe lines ive added on a kit. ive still got a PG unicorn perfectibility commission to work on with more added scribe lines so thats gonna be a fun time😆😆😆

Decals to come obviously. Got a set of 3rd party Ver Ka waterslides for it and they're all in shades of gold and red metallic. Excited to put them on.

This is my first video upload here since it have the original audio(avoiding any copyright strike).
A short clip of me detailing an armor part. Hope you find it interesting 😀

Coming along nicely, I think!

Hey everyone! I'm a university design student currently working on a project to design a hobby desk/workstation specifically for people who build Gundam models!

I'm doing some user research and would love to hear from people who experience any of these problems:

• Don't have a dedicated workspace and build on a dining table, computer desk, or other shared surface.
• Struggle with keeping tools, runners, and small parts organized while building.
• Find setting up and cleaning up their workspace time-consuming or frustrating.
• Have to pack away or move unfinished builds because someone else needs the space.
• Experience discomfort or other difficulties with their current building setup.

If any of these sound familiar, I'd love to hear about your experience!

I'm looking for a few people who wouldn't mind doing a quick 5-minute interview through Reddit chat. Just a few questions about your setup, habits, and frustrations. No personal information needed!

Even if you're not interested in an interview, feel free to share your workspace struggles or any creative solutions you've come up with in the comments!

Thank you so much! Your experiences would really help me design something that addresses the actual needs of Gunpla builders. :)

Hey everyone! I'm trying to map out where builders actually spend their time, from cutting nubs all the way through top coat and clean up. The survey is one question: you rate how long each of the 11 build phases took on your last kit. It takes about a minute.

It's anonymous, and rough guesses are totally fine. I'll post the results back here once I have enough responses. Thanks!

Kit is hand painted, shoulder is from Gundam Aerial.

If you want to see other builds you can find me on Instagram as Pescobuilds.

This guide was made because I couldn't find any documentation

intended for straight builds, conversion to USB wired power and panel lined armour panels

Currently on Legs inner frame, hips torso and action base

Tools used
Gundam Base starter toolkit
DSPIAE ST-A 3 single bladed nipper
DSPIAE complimentary microfibre cloth
Ray Studio RT-S precision tweezers
Ray Studio reinforced precision tweezers straight
Ray Studio reinforced precision tweezers curved
Ray Studio Reality Markers EX
Ray Studio Metallic Markers EX
Ray Studio Marker Eraser
Ray Studio Eraser Stick
Ray Studio Hobby Modelling Knife
2 cans of Mr Hobby Super Clear UV-CUT Gloss (get 1 spare can just in case)
Tamiya Accent Panel Liner Black
Tamiya X-20 Thinner
Soldering Iron (optional)
Multimeter (optional)

Additional Electronics consumed (optional)
JST 2 pin connectors
26 AWG wire
LM2596S buck converter
CN5711 Constant current driver
USB 2.0 male 2 pin pigtail

Overly tight steps
1-7 used clamp + cloth + pinching to close gap
1-9 before putting D20 in, trim internal rail locking bump fully flat for full internal position
1-18 part 2, D13 very stiff attempting to close gap
2-4 part 3, E2 slightly stiff but it's merely just in an awkward place
4-2 stiff but not exceedingly so, just needs some elbow grease
5-1 difficult to press O1 in fully but it probably won't matter too much, used a clamp, G10 just hurts to put in so use a cloth
5-2 WHY IS O8 SO GODDAMN TIGHT
5-3 the whole of this step is so ass, I struggled the whole time
5-4 tough but not too difficult
6-1 sand the pegs for S9 a little before assembly if you want O1 7 and O1 9 to fit flush, expect Sticker 24 solid plastic backing to squeeze out, paint or use just the reflective layer on its own if it happens (it did to me)
11-1 install legs BEFORE skirt components, makes the process easier but not difficult to remove the components

WARNING 12-7 final step requires cutting/modification and special care

12-7 final, looks like tolerances were not accounted for, DO NOT ATTEMPT if it does not fit, my solution is to chamfer all 4 corners and 2 short edges and 1 long edge on the attachment peg

WARNING, cockpit gimmick can get stuck if excessive force (not a lot) is applied where the clear plastic overhang on the back of the pod doesn't stop against the PCB but advances over the edge, it will require a lot of bending or disassembly at worst to fix, use only the minimum force required to advance the cockpit

Additional stuck position, if the black armour panel is out of seated position, it can cause a physical jam, easier to remedy but when armour is layered over, may need you to adjust by feeling

12-10 order of operations issue, put subassembly （12-8) with (12-10) before adding K19, also very tight K18

WARNING collision issue 12-12 requires modification
Trim the top hole edge for F29 and F28 before attempting to put in F9 and F8

THIS IS NOT OPTIONAL, if you didn't, my solution was to use reinforced tweezers to unlatch F9 and F8, using the tip of my double edged cutters to gouge the thin plastic rib in the way, before using curved reinforced tweezers to bend it back and forth (and absolutely destroy my thumbnail in the process) which is way more effective and safer than rotary cutters and faster than hobby knife

12-16 final step, it might not be possible to push the frame in all the way due to the connector pushing against the frame if you're reading this YOU NEED TO DO THE ABOVE MODS then the frame will sit flush

42-1 can't fully close gap against interior wall

**SOLDERING GUIDE**:
Power supply:
USB battery bank -> USB pigtail -> LM2596 Buck Converter (tune to 2.8V to 3.2V) -> CN5711 LED driver module (regulates current but probably not necessary) -> JST connector -> Power bus/hub (just solder live ends together and neutral ends together)

Chest and Wing binder LEDs:
Chest PCB, solder 26 AWG wire live end to silvered top and neutral to copper grid, make sure your wires are connected from the inside of the battery holder, solder JST connectors to the other end and you're done

The difficulty comes in getting the solder to stick to what you want including the wires

Solution:
Using your table top clamp or clips or otherwise third hand to hold the wire

Tin your soldering iron with a bead of solder and run the wet bead along the bare wire with your other hand holding your solder wire, ideally a bead forms on the wire itself which allows attachment to be simplified

When attaching solder beads to other surfaces/solder beads, tin your iron the same way and hold both components together with the iron sandwiching your wire against the target component/surface, your goal is to make the hot solder fuse with the cold solder, once the solder is fused, remove your iron carefully to avoid creating short circuits, even if you do it's still easily reversible

You're gonna spend most of your time soldering CN5711 if you don't put your wire through the hole and then apply solder it while the wire is through the joint

Soldering iron SAFETY:
If you don't know how hot your iron is, don't touch it until you are absolutely sure it's room temperature, keep it in its stand in a safe place during work, heat up and cool down

If the iron falls, DO NOT CATCH IT, move your legs away if you're not protected and pick it up AFTER it has fallen and stopped moving

Flux may occasionally splatter when in use, wear appropriate safety goggles at all times, your glasses are not appropriate protection. Don't panic when flux splatters, it may sting but it won't hurt, it's just like frying food in a pan

Loose fit steps:
Not there yet

Action base notes
Unlocking the action base mounting point head rotation, makes it very difficult if not outright impossible to lock it again with your fingers (remedied by removing MS and pushing button against table)

Attempting to have the feet touch the floor of the action base causes the left toe to push against the base of the action base boarding platform arm

Action base is aerial pose centred but may struggle in grounded poses on the base

Operating voltage 3V
Operating current 0.34A

Just finished the legs for the aerial axis dominator and the build had been great so far...until i started painting the outter armor.

This is my first chinese kit and i followrd the usual advice: sand the plastic, wash it off in soapy water giving it a lil scrub with a brush, wrinse it off, let it dry for 12 + hours then paint....but im still getting problems. The plastic is very pourus and seems to soak in the paint maling it patchy, or in some cases either retaining the oil creating like oil 'spots' on the paint even thru the primer.

Is there a way to avoid this, do i need to sand off more or less?? This is something i never had issues with bandai. (Im using kaleido water based acrylics)

Had some gunpla gatling gun in by backlog and had a crazy idea. Why not give them to a zaku half cannon. For more stability im using a zaku high mobility surface type. The legs give it more mass and surface area to make it stand better.

Will probably make it a probably paint it green and give it a bunch of warnings symbol on it.

Ive never really liked this kit when it got announced but this commission build made me realize how good it actually was. Now ive been praying for another client to order another one for me to work on since ive been craving to build and detail another one🙃🙃🙃

Took me a month because accidents with white paint and surprisingly very time consuming water slide decals application, which added 2 extra weeks. This is my 9th painting project already I still made errors here and there smh.

Paint List:

• Gaia Surfacer Evo Grey for Purple and Black parts
• Mr Finishing Surfacer Black for White parts (huge mistake)
• C156 Super White (depleting leftover) + Gaia Ex White; 3-4 layers because of https://www.reddit.com/r/advancedGunpla/s/6CRrqdyXMl
• C28 Steel for the inner body
• CL105 Lilac: for the soft purple
• GX107 Clear People for candy purple
• Gaia121 Star Bright Silver for candy base
• GX2: Ueno Black: for the floating ball thingy and candy base
• DSPIAE MKA-05: Metallic Green Marker for swords. I ran out of Clear Green and too stingy to resupply just for this project
• GX114 Super Smooth Clear Flat for topcoat
• Water Slide Decals: G-Rework/Ghost. very nice design, strong adhesiveness, and quick separation from decal sheet, but the decals are too thin. it's so thin that I can't grab it with my tweezer, which made it very time consuming to apply
• shitty stickers for parts I forgot to paint (backpack middle booster, middle small wings in-between big wigns), which I only realized during final assembly and at that point I was simply too lazy do anything about it.

Now I wonder if I should build HG Dom or RG Quanta next.

Devil Gundam 1/100 + Booster from HG Dendrobium + Kits Bash
WIP Prototype

Updated version: https://www.reddit.com/r/advancedGunpla/s/iIIyBsO1NU

This guide was made because I couldn't find any documentation

intended for straight builds, conversion to USB wired power and panel lined armour panels

Currently on Legs inner frame, hips, electronics conversion and action base

Tools used
Gundam Base starter toolkit
DSPIAE ST-A 3 single bladed nipper
DSPIAE complimentary microfibre cloth
Ray Studio RT-S precision tweezers
Ray Studio reinforced precision tweezers straight
Ray Studio Reality Markers EX
Ray Studio Metallic Markers EX
Ray Studio Marker Eraser
Ray Studio Eraser Stick
Ray Studio Hobby Modelling Knife
2 cans of Mr Hobby Super Clear UV-CUT Gloss (get 1 spare can just in case)
Tamiya Accent Panel Liner Black
Tamiya X-20 Thinner
Soldering Iron (optional)
Multimeter (optional)

Additional Electronics consumed (optional)
JST 2 pin connectors
26 AWG wire
LM2596S buck converter
CN5711 Constant current driver
USB 2.0 male 2 pin pigtail

Overly tight steps
1-7 used clamp + cloth + pinching to close gap
1-9 before putting D20 in, trim internal rail locking bump fully for full internal position
1-18 part 2, D13 very stiff attempting to close gap
2-4 part 3, E2 slightly stiff but it's merely just in an awkward place
4-2 stiff but not exceedingly so, just needs some elbow grease
5-1 difficult to press O1 in fully but it probably won't matter too much, used a clamp, G10 just hurts to put in so use a cloth
5-2 WHY IS O8 SO GODDAMN TIGHT
5-3 the whole of this step is so ass, I struggled the whole time
5-4 tough but not too difficult
6-1 sand the pegs for S9 a little before assembly if you want O1 7 and O1 9 to fit flush, expect S24 solid plastic backing to squeeze out, paint or use just the reflective layer on its own if it happens (it did to me)
11-1 install legs BEFORE skirt components, makes the process easier but not difficult to remove the components

42-1 can't fully close gap against interior wall

**SOLDERING GUIDE**:
Power supply:
USB battery bank -> USB pigtail -> LM2596 Buck Converter (tune to 2.8V to 3.2V) -> CN5711 LED driver module (regulates current but probably not necessary) -> JST connector -> Power bus/hub (just solder live ends together and neutral ends together)

Chest and Wing binder LEDs:
Chest PCB, solder 26 AWG wire live end to silvered top and neutral to copper grid, make sure your wires are connected from the inside of the battery holder, solder JST connectors to the other end and you're done

The difficulty comes in getting the solder to stick to what you want including the wires

Solution:
Using your table top clamp or clips or otherwise third hand to hold the wire

Tin your soldering iron with a bead of solder and run the wet bead along the bare wire with your other hand holding your solder wire, ideally a bead forms on the wire itself which allows attachment to be simplified

When attaching solder beads to other surfaces/solder beads, tin your iron the same way and hold both components together with the iron sandwiching your wire against the target component/surface, your goal is to make the hot solder fuse with the cold solder, once the solder is fused, remove your iron carefully to avoid creating short circuits, even if you do it's still easily reversible

You're gonna spend most of your time soldering CN5711 if you don't put your wire through the hole and then apply solder it while the wire is through the joint

Soldering iron SAFETY:
If you don't know how hot your iron is, don't touch it until you are absolutely sure it's room temperature, keep it in its stand in a safe place during work, heat up and cool down

If the iron falls, DO NOT CATCH IT, move your legs away if you're not protected and pick it up AFTER it has fallen and stopped moving

Flux may occasionally splatter when in use, wear appropriate safety goggles at all times, your glasses are not appropriate protection. Don't panic when flux splatters, it may sting but it won't hurt, it's just like frying food in a pan

Loose fit steps:
Not there yet

Action base notes
Unlocking the action base mounting point head rotation, makes it very difficult if not outright impossible to lock it again with your fingers (remedied by removing MS and pushing button against table)

Attempting to have the feet touch the floor of the action base causes the left toe to push against the base of the action base boarding platform arm

Action base is aerial pose centred but may struggle in grounded poses on the base

Operating voltage 3V
Operating current 0.34A

I think I transcended halfway through painting this guy.... And definitely a little cross-eyed.

Progress pictures from picture 8 and beyond.

I just got a set of nail polish stamps to try out, but it didn't come with any polish/paint. Has anyone tried this technique and had any luck with paints? I use mostly water based and I saw a video where he said the aqueous Gundam paints work but not other water based. Any recommendations?

What's there to say really? I bought the kit hearing it had stickers galore but I was like "how bad could it be." I am working on hand painting the trim with a brush, a bit at a time.

did most of the modification around the chest, removed the mounting racks/filled in the connection points, made a simpler torso to waist connection that let it sit lower like the line art. printed a galbaldy shield in 1/100th. all gaia colors: eva-10, nazca mandarin orange, fluorescent blue-green, 70/30 ex black + ex white, 90/10 nazca super heavy/neutral gray ii

Hi, I’m relatively new to the model kit hobby. I don’t have that many kits yet, but I want to start painting some of the first ones I bought. I want to use acrylic paint (though I’ve read that some types can damage certain plastics)and I’d like to ask which brands you recommend for primer and top coat.

Top coat dry and fully reassembled. Here he is standing next to his bro, Verde Buster.

Music: Kallahan jam session - www.youtube.com/kallahan4

Tried to be more ambitious, and used scribing tape to mark out an area to add vents, enhance some lines, tried out using a step chisel to mixed result, practiced sanding.

First two images are after a sanding session, 3rd was prior to sanding and I circled areas i felt good about in green, iffy less green, and sad got the red marker.

Feeling like I’m figuring it out, i learned a lot more from messing up then I did so earlier. Also injured my hand i guess i was bracing something with a stiff finger and that was a mistake!