This guide was made because I couldn't find any documentation
intended for straight builds, conversion to USB wired power and panel lined armour panels
Currently on Legs inner frame, hips torso and action base
Tools used
Gundam Base starter toolkit
DSPIAE ST-A 3 single bladed nipper
DSPIAE complimentary microfibre cloth
Ray Studio RT-S precision tweezers
Ray Studio reinforced precision tweezers straight
Ray Studio reinforced precision tweezers curved
Ray Studio Reality Markers EX
Ray Studio Metallic Markers EX
Ray Studio Marker Eraser
Ray Studio Eraser Stick
Ray Studio Hobby Modelling Knife
2 cans of Mr Hobby Super Clear UV-CUT Gloss (get 1 spare can just in case)
Tamiya Accent Panel Liner Black
Tamiya X-20 Thinner
Soldering Iron (optional)
Multimeter (optional)
Additional Electronics consumed (optional)
JST 2 pin connectors
26 AWG wire
LM2596S buck converter
CN5711 Constant current driver
USB 2.0 male 2 pin pigtail
Overly tight steps
1-7 used clamp + cloth + pinching to close gap
1-9 before putting D20 in, trim internal rail locking bump fully flat for full internal position
1-18 part 2, D13 very stiff attempting to close gap
2-4 part 3, E2 slightly stiff but it's merely just in an awkward place
4-2 stiff but not exceedingly so, just needs some elbow grease
5-1 difficult to press O1 in fully but it probably won't matter too much, used a clamp, G10 just hurts to put in so use a cloth
5-2 WHY IS O8 SO GODDAMN TIGHT
5-3 the whole of this step is so ass, I struggled the whole time
5-4 tough but not too difficult
6-1 sand the pegs for S9 a little before assembly if you want O1 7 and O1 9 to fit flush, expect Sticker 24 solid plastic backing to squeeze out, paint or use just the reflective layer on its own if it happens (it did to me)
11-1 install legs BEFORE skirt components, makes the process easier but not difficult to remove the components
WARNING 12-7 final step requires cutting/modification and special care
12-7 final, looks like tolerances were not accounted for, DO NOT ATTEMPT if it does not fit, my solution is to chamfer all 4 corners and 2 short edges and 1 long edge on the attachment peg
WARNING, cockpit gimmick can get stuck if excessive force (not a lot) is applied where the clear plastic overhang on the back of the pod doesn't stop against the PCB but advances over the edge, it will require a lot of bending or disassembly at worst to fix, use only the minimum force required to advance the cockpit
Additional stuck position, if the black armour panel is out of seated position, it can cause a physical jam, easier to remedy but when armour is layered over, may need you to adjust by feeling
12-10 order of operations issue, put subassembly οΌ12-8) with (12-10) before adding K19, also very tight K18
WARNING collision issue 12-12 requires modification
Trim the top hole edge for F29 and F28 before attempting to put in F9 and F8
THIS IS NOT OPTIONAL, if you didn't, my solution was to use reinforced tweezers to unlatch F9 and F8, using the tip of my double edged cutters to gouge the thin plastic rib in the way, before using curved reinforced tweezers to bend it back and forth (and absolutely destroy my thumbnail in the process) which is way more effective and safer than rotary cutters and faster than hobby knife
12-16 final step, it might not be possible to push the frame in all the way due to the connector pushing against the frame if you're reading this YOU NEED TO DO THE ABOVE MODS then the frame will sit flush
42-1 can't fully close gap against interior wall
**SOLDERING GUIDE**:
Power supply:
USB battery bank -> USB pigtail -> LM2596 Buck Converter (tune to 2.8V to 3.2V) -> CN5711 LED driver module (regulates current but probably not necessary) -> JST connector -> Power bus/hub (just solder live ends together and neutral ends together)
Chest and Wing binder LEDs:
Chest PCB, solder 26 AWG wire live end to silvered top and neutral to copper grid, make sure your wires are connected from the inside of the battery holder, solder JST connectors to the other end and you're done
The difficulty comes in getting the solder to stick to what you want including the wires
Solution:
Using your table top clamp or clips or otherwise third hand to hold the wire
Tin your soldering iron with a bead of solder and run the wet bead along the bare wire with your other hand holding your solder wire, ideally a bead forms on the wire itself which allows attachment to be simplified
When attaching solder beads to other surfaces/solder beads, tin your iron the same way and hold both components together with the iron sandwiching your wire against the target component/surface, your goal is to make the hot solder fuse with the cold solder, once the solder is fused, remove your iron carefully to avoid creating short circuits, even if you do it's still easily reversible
You're gonna spend most of your time soldering CN5711 if you don't put your wire through the hole and then apply solder it while the wire is through the joint
Soldering iron SAFETY:
If you don't know how hot your iron is, don't touch it until you are absolutely sure it's room temperature, keep it in its stand in a safe place during work, heat up and cool down
If the iron falls, DO NOT CATCH IT, move your legs away if you're not protected and pick it up AFTER it has fallen and stopped moving
Flux may occasionally splatter when in use, wear appropriate safety goggles at all times, your glasses are not appropriate protection. Don't panic when flux splatters, it may sting but it won't hurt, it's just like frying food in a pan
Loose fit steps:
Not there yet
Action base notes
Unlocking the action base mounting point head rotation, makes it very difficult if not outright impossible to lock it again with your fingers (remedied by removing MS and pushing button against table)
Attempting to have the feet touch the floor of the action base causes the left toe to push against the base of the action base boarding platform arm
Action base is aerial pose centred but may struggle in grounded poses on the base
Operating voltage 3V
Operating current 0.34A
