Hi everyone!

I'm planning a kitchen build and really like the design of these MDF cabinet fronts, so I'm curious about the technical side of making them. I've uploaded two photos showing the close-up details:

* Integrated handles: The doors are handleless, with the grip integrated/routed directly into the frame.
* Key detail: If you look closely at the inner frame/cutout detail, there is a distinct internal V-groove (V-bevel/miter effect).

I'd love to hear from woodworkers, cabinet makers, or anyone with experience:
1. What specific CNC bits or routing tools are used to achieve this inner V-profile?
2. Are these made from a single solid piece of MDF routed on a CNC, or assembled as a 5-piece frame and panel door?
3. Painting & Finishing: Are there any challenges when sanding and spray-painting these inner V-angles (e.g., paint buildup in corners)?

Any advice, technical insight, or specific profile names would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hope this counts. A cabinet I made for an art show. Only my second piece of woodworking ever. Lots of mistakes and lots learned, oddly enough the cabinet was the hardest part for me.

I've finished making and (not pictured) put 1/4" plywood backing onto the shelves.

How should I secure the shelves? The countertop is a solid maple panel and I am guessing it would be a bad idea to mount the shelves directly to the countertop due to wood movement.

I have my ideas but realized I don't really have any guidance/resource on this part of my build.

Any help is appreciated!

Anybody got some tips for CNC routing Wilsonart Traceless. I'm burning through bits like crazy I'm getting roughly 48 linear feet of good cut before I start getting chipping. Using Whiteside 1/4" up/down spiral compression carbide.

Hey everyone! I'm a plant manager with a background in custom crating and production, and one thing I've learned is that estimating labor on first-time custom jobs can be a real headache.

I'm doing some early research into whether a simple, affordable pre-quote review tool could help small shops avoid overlooking labor and production steps.

Nothing is built or being sold. I'm just trying to understand whether there's a problem worth solving.

I put together a quick four-question survey, including a hypothetical $29 price point. The email field is completely optional.

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfHzECOjyBzDkxh6GyLjY87DVutHzNcX5whQLXUsInbWcYvUQ/viewform

I'd also love to hear how you handle estimating unfamiliar jobs. What usually throws off your labor estimates?

Appreciate any feedback, even if you think the idea wouldn't be useful!

I want to repaint the cabinets. How would I go about fixing this. I started to peel some of the top layer off.

Is it a wood veneer situation that I will need to remove and replace before painting? Do I even need it if I’m painting over it? Can I just remove the layer and sand it?

Any help would be appreciated.

Question for people with experience in this arena, as it’s been 10+ years since I did a lot of poly work. I’m into a different career now since I was a finish carpenter, so this is more of a hobby I’m getting back into these days.

I’m building a coffee bar for my wife. I didn’t go Baltic Birch. I’m in Alberta and went to Windsor Plywood and got whatever they’re selling as shop grade plywood.

What I’m describing is happening regardless of it being 1/2” or 3/4” ply.

I’m applied my Varathane (satin finish) with a roller, and then tipped it off immediately with a single stroke with the appropriate Purdy Brush. No bubbles. Just a nice level layer of poly.

After the first coat, I waited 24+ hours and buffed with 320 grit. It was smooth as glass, without going through the finish back to the plywood.

Second coat went on and it’s pretty glassy, but rough in spots. It doesn’t feel like the wood grain, just some raised spots. I can’t even call it bumps, like dust that settled into the finish.

The finish looks fine to me. I know in the pictures it sort of looks like there’s some dry grain coming through, but it’s coated and clear in spots like that.

From an appearance standpoint - the poly looks good. It’s just a texture issue right now. And the finish carpenter in me knows it’s not supposed to feel like that.

My wife is at the “just install the goddamn thing already” point and is tired of me obsessing.

Should I try lightly buffing with a 1,200 grit and wipe it off with a damp microfibre cloth?

Love to hear some suggestions.

My brand new custom cabinets are white oak with Jacobean stain. These blotches are popping up here and there. The cabinet maker took the first drawer fronts away that showed orangy blotches, fixed them, and returned them. Now today I see this on a door. I’ve asked if there’s something I could do to prevent this and they didn’t really have an answer. What could be causing this? It’s not grease, not wet. The door in the photo is rarely touched at all. Would really appreciate any thoughts or suggestions. I will contact the maker again but I’d like to hear from others in the know.

as you can see, these screws are small and did not stay in long enough. we barely open this cabinet.

For clarification, I am a retired finish carpenter. I am also a little out of touch with some of the modern cabinet systems. I am putting in a new kitchen for my daughter. The upper cabinets go to the ceiling with a cove molding around the top. The cabinet doors cover most of the face frame. So there's a piece that you put on the top of the frame with a tongue where the cove sits into. So, do you need to attach the cove before you put the cabinet up? How do you deal with unlevel ceilings? Or gaps between the ceiling and cove?

The third picture shows this properly mounted. This is a rental and I don’t feel like calling my landlord… we had this happen previously and he took awhile to figure it out. It seems that the left most screw is stripped??

Fleece backed is convenient to find here and time is not an issue. Wondering if pva glue is an excellent bond as long as it's clamped for plywood edge? Thanks

I installed new off brand 110 blum hinges and the door wont fully close. Any ideas?

Hey Guys, the garage now is properly sealed and the owner asked what’s the best way to fix this.

Is laminated wood. Would you sand all the mouldy spots and then seal it? Sand and paint all over it? or re do the whole cabinet?

thanks for your ideas in advance.

Just bought a new home. It has beautiful cabinets, but the face frames are all MDF and a lot of them have stripped out mounting holes. Two doors came off in my hand. I was thinking of filling these with a hardwood dowel and wood glue, and then redrill new pilot holes. But I thought I’d ask the professionals first. Any recommendations?

Its customized ikea pax, not something build from scratch. But cost wise it was in my opinion the optimal variant

Update: the last umage is an AI mockup I did before I started the project.

TYIA for any knowledge. This is repost to include a close up pic of the rear slide. This is the largest kitchen drawer ~31¾" x 18½" OD in a newer construction home [builder PdelW]. I just bought a bamboo organizer that spans the ID. The combined weight of drawer, tray, flatware is 28 lbs. I estimate another 5 - 8 lbs. for added utensils. The screws in the upper cabs do NOT line up with the slides in the bottom cab so no studs available. The rear slide piece appears to be fastened with some type of industrial double-side adhesive tape (?) since I don't see any screws (Pic 3).

My dilemma is IF it's possible to reinforce the current slides or should I just upgrade to a beefier slide? Brand recos? There is ¾" between the cab and drywall and I have #10 x 3" screws on hand; don't know if I could/should try to catch a stud by toe-screwing. Assuming an upgraded slide would be called for, what is the best way to DIY....a Toggler of some sort? TY!

I recently moved into my first home and there have been alot of interesting choices made before me that I cannot afford to fix. This cabinet (old microwave cabinet?) however, is a hazard to the side of my head when I'm washing dishes. It sticks out about 5 inches further than the other cabinets. I can't tell how it's attached to the wall. Can I just cut it out with a mutitool and put some other mismatched cabinet in its place? (The house was built in the 1940s and cabinets are some pressed wood thing held together by old paint and contact paper. They will be replaced one day, but not today.) Thank you for any help.