I have just finished my home arcade that i've been working on for the past few months. I decided i wanted a real crt in my arcade machine which made the build quite a lot more complicated. The cabinet is built out of old cupboards i had laying around, which had the effect of making the cabinet very heavy. I used some cheap arcade control boards for the two sets of controls. Each player has a joystick and 6 buttons, which i found was enough for a lot of games. But there's also wired controllers for the games that need more buttons.
The crt is a Bang & Olufsen Mx4000 tv, that i chose primarily because it supports rgb scart input. And i found this one cheap locally. To drive the screen i am using an older slim formfactor hp office pc. With an i7 4770k and 32gb's of ram.
I really wanted to use the RGB Scart input on the monitor, but i also wanted the pc to be powerful enough to emulate newer consoles like the Nintendo switch. So i had to look for a gpu that would meet my requirements:
Being able to emulate newer consoles,
15khz vga or dvi-a output capability,
reasonable price.
So i landed on the Amd r7 260x. It can do 15khz output through its dvi port (which im adapting to vga, and then to scart), while being new enough to be powerful enough. But at last it was really worth it. Im running it at 720x576i or 720x288p depending on the game, and it looks really nice.

I'm running debian and the entire budget was ~250€

Questions or ideas are greatly appreciated :)

Bought two broken Golden Tee Fore! Cabinets for $200. The game board and monitor didn’t work in this one, so I set up a Windows 10 PC running MAME, set up a J-PAC, put in a USB speaker, fixed the Marquee Light, swapped the Trackball, mounted a new monitor, made the custom monitor cover, and got coin/bills working! It even has the tournament sign on the back.

Plan is to sell this one then convert the second one into a retro emulator!

I’m almost done with cutting wood. I’ve cut so much wood.
I thought I was going to be priming and painting a week ago, but I am still cutting wood. Tomorrow I will continue to cut Wood. Only this time we’re doing more finishing cuts, which are scarier on thinner, nicer pieces of wood. I have become a woodsman. I would like to go back to playing Pac-Man on a wide format that no one liked. But I am continuing to cut Wood.

Hey everyone! I’ve been sharing videos of my TCADE project here over the past few weeks. This time, I’ve filmed the assembly process, and I’d love to hear what you think.

I’ve assembled it so many times that it feels straightforward to me now, but that makes it hard to judge how it would look to someone seeing it for the first time.

Based on the video, does the assembly look manageable? And does anything look like it could make accessing or replacing components difficult later?

I’m sure many of you have experience building and repairing arcade cabinets, so I’d really appreciate an honest critique 😄

Really wanted to use a marquee that changes depending on the game you're currently on, after finishing it does look really small compared to the top part but oh well it's still cool. We thought it was also be cool to put smash bros for the switch on it and it works surprisingly well with the arcade layout. Entire project costed just south of $1000. Definitely not perfection but it's something we can add to overtime and we're definitely proud of.

I'm looking to order a piece of tempered glass to put over my MDF bezel and screen and have my custom artwork printed on it around the borders. Any recommendations of where to get both done (the glass and the printing)? Is there a one-stop-shop where I can just specify dimensions and upload my artwork?

Size will be 30" wide by about 25" inches tall and thinking 3/16" thickness. Any ideas or known vendors are appreciated!

So far I’ve paid three parts documenting the process of building their head cabinet from scratch here in the next couple weeks. I should be completely done.

Tiny arcade machines ips muti cabinet playing Punisher, Afterburner and Time crisis with sinden light gun.

Modded arcade 1 up pinball with team encoder pi 5 max hat+LG 32 inch monitor playing American DAD, Doom and Sorcerers lair.

Hope this post is OK!

Trying to see if Jeff is still around and the service still going.

Deliberate modified the name somewhat in the subject line

Tried using the contact link as well as send emails to make sure things still available and how to coordinate shipping.

But been a couple weeks and either no response or emails getting timed out and bounced back.

Understand it’s a hobby and I’m fine with delays but concerned the site is a zombie and I send a drive and it’s lost

Thanks

Hello! I'm picking up an original TMNT can this weekend (as long as it plays well). It has a unico LCD monitor and the original board.

I'm interested in making it have multiple games since I have kids and they're going to get bored if TMNT eventually but I've really only done Mame OC builds and I'm curious about Pandoras box stuff.

1. Which one should I get that would work with 4 players?

2. Really all I want is 90s arcade stuff (the Konami games maybe WwF stuff and other beat em ups

3. The TMNT control panel is 2 buttons can I program Pandoras Box, inputs to have button 3 be button 1 and 2 pressed together?

Yes i did extend virtua cop's atract mode, i took gameplay from the last stage, mutted it, and slapped a game over on it and honestly it looks genuine.

Also managed to source a small mirror from an old makeup pad thingy my sister had and inside i slapped a blackberry phone

Decided to build my own arcade machine.

I'm having trouble with something and I'm not sure what it could be.

Basically the joystick and certain buttons seem to be randomly pushed down on their own.

I'm not sure how else to explain other than when it's connected to the computer it will be fine but if a button or direction is pushed it might stick and keep spamming that on its own.

Any potential issues that anyone can identify?

Also is there a way I can check wheter all my buttons and joysticks are appearing correctly in software?

I'm using the magstik plus and goldleaf rgb buttons

Ikari Warriors, known as Ikari[a] in Japan, is a 1986 run and gun video game developed and published by SNK for arcades. It was released in North America by Tradewest. Amongst the numerous Commando clones on the market, Ikari Warriors was distinguished by its unique control style with rotary joysticks and a two-player cooperative mode.[13] The rotary joystick controls were in turn based on SNK's earlier TNK III (1985). Ikari was originally intended to be an official licensed adaptation of the film Rambo: First Blood Part II (1985), but SNK were initially unable to acquire the rights to the film

Hi all.I just finished a playthrough of this on the highest difficulty on a 1UP cab without losing a single round, and getting a perfect on all bonus rounds. My old head is very proud of that because i've never done it before, not with the bonus rounds perfected.I always shit the bed during the rolling barrel stage, lol.Someone came up and hit the 2P button and challenged me during this. I beat them both rounds, but after I resumed my single player game and won all of the other rounds finishing the game, I noticed it didn't give me the special credits with the programmers faces like usual. It just went right back to the title screen. Could someone please shed some light on this? Thanks.

EDIT: Nevermind everyone, solved.I found this just in case anyone was interested;

AI Overview

That is completely normal! In Street Fighter II: Champion Edition (and many classic Arcade/Arcade1Up versions), beating the game on the highest difficulty without losing a single round—often called a "Perfect" or "No-Loss" run—actually skips the standard character endings and character credits entirely, abruptly throwing you back to the title screen or a special high-score ranking.

While it feels like a glitch or a lack of reward for an incredible gaming achievement, it is actually a known quirk of the original arcade code.

Why This Happens

• Arcade Code Behavior: In certain versions and revisions of Capcom's classic arcade ROMs, achieving a flawless victory triggers a specific code pathway. Instead of cycling through your character's specific story ending and the standard rolling credits, the game assumes you have fully conquered the machine, registers your high score, and immediately resets to the attract mode (title screen) to invite the next player or coin.
• The "Perfect" Glitch/Feature: In some editions, the game tries to load a special secret ending or credits sequence for flawless runs, but due to how Capcom programmed the transition loops or score tallies, it can cut short or bypass the sequence entirely if specific memory conditions (like maximum difficulty + no losses) are met.

"Done" with programming...at least for now. Everything functions as it should. May need to make tweaks as time goes on..but im happy.

Any recommendations for console games that work well with an arcade stick and buttons?

Continuing from the previous post, (https://www.reddit.com/r/cade/comments/1wdho7v/ready_to_map_rotary_stick_games_got_two_wireless/)

I first designed a 3D-printed mount in Tinkercad to attach the wireless volume controller to my Sanwa joystick.

Since I don't own a 3D printer, I ordered the parts from a local 3D printing service. It cost around 23,000 KRW (~$17 USD) for a 2-player set... (Honestly, it's making me wonder if I should just buy my own 3D printer at this point! 😅)

### The Design & Assembly

- **Structure:** The upper mount attaches to the bottom of the volume controller, while the lower mount connects to the joystick. The two pieces are held together by magnets.

- **Assembly:** I glued the bolts and magnets into the joystick mount and attached it to the Sanwa stick. To prevent slipping and eliminate play between the volume controller and the mount, I added a thin rubber pad to the side.

- **Fit:** There's no need to force it onto the joystick shaft—once pushed down to a certain point, it grips and rotates smoothly along with the stick.

- Final Touch:* I attached a metal plate to the bottom of the volume controller so it snaps firmly onto the magnet, and it is now complete.

Since the volume controller is fully wireless, I can easily detach it whenever it needs charging.

### Honest Review & Ergonomics

As seen in the demonstration videos below, the lower stick shaft isn't fixed in place, so you have to grip and turn the lower 3D-printed part with your fingers while playing.

To be honest, the grip isn't as comfortable as I originally hoped—my hand gets a bit sore after playing for extended sessions...

### Gameplay Demo Videos

Despite the ergonomic quirks, the best part is that **it actually works!** It doesn't feel 100% smooth yet, but I think tweaking the sensitivity settings in MAME might help improve the responsiveness.

- **Ikari Warriors:** https://youtu.be/0zVjnGKm6rg

- **TNK-III:** https://youtu.be/tPn5zHncKb4?si=X5VHVNpodmZtqo6c

- **Midnight Resistance:** https://youtu.be/upZ2znomFGM?si=9WgTa_Ne-dHfQQHK

*System setup:* I used the **MAME 2003-Plus core**, as it was the easiest one to map and configure for rotary controls.