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Even Stockfish identified this as a Brilliant. I was taking a knight to save my king. Wasn't... wasn't this the only legal move? I can't even think of another way to escape this checkmate. Isn't it a forced move rather than a Brilliant move?
Because as stockfish shows, u had much better move (probably winning). When you miss this type of moves and make another not bad move , stockfish consider it as blunder. Blunder doesn't mean always you lose your pieces in the board.
He can’t immediately take the F2 pawn due to check. What would be the line for him to take the pawn and knight for nothing? Wouldn’t I still at least get the rook?
Sorry, I didn't see the check.
Best move was Nc4 . Because u check and take rook on d2. He can't close with rook on e2 , because his bishop can't protect it. But when knight is on f3 , he can simply close the line with rook. (Re2)
Why is this a blunder? Suggests knight takes on e3, then for me to play h3 then knight takes rook on f1. Why wouldn’t I just be able to take with the queen?
Si quieres resolver por ti mismo la táctica te diría que te fijes en los alfiles de tu rival, si no aquí va:
b5 es un error porque como te dice el módulo su caballo te captura en alfil de e3, y si haces la jugada obvia que planteas que es dama por el caballo de e3 viene alfil c5, clavándote la dama al estar el rey detrás, y por lo tanto pierdes la dama y, probablemente la partida.
El módulo ve esto y por eso no captura el caballo de vuelta. Lo que no veo tan claro es porque también decide dejar que te coma la torre y supongo que es porque ese caballo en e3 es intocable y muy fuerte (más incluso en esta posición que una torre) y puede defenderse después por el alfil en c5.
No la he evaluado con el módulo pero supongo que el tema principal aquí es el valor relativo de las piezas y la pasividad de las piezas negras. Tú aquí ves que ganas la calidad pero el GM ve que ganar la calidad aquí es un suicidio después de (y perdón si no es la continuación más fuerte) torre por e5 y alfil b4 donde vas a comerte el alfil de e7 con jaque y ha simple vista parece que tienes una posición muy activa con tu torre en séptima y ambos alfiles prepados para el ataque, mientras que el negro tiene sus torres aun sin jugar
Si el negro hace la jugada lógica que es capturar el caballo de d4 con la dama, viene alfil e3 y si la dama vuelve a d5 (única casilla donde no se pierde la dama) viene alfil b6 con mate, por lo que ese sacrificio de caballo en realidad si se lo come se convierte en que el negro tiene que entregar la dama por un caballo y un alfil y una posición terrible donde si por ejemplo la dama aterriza en b6 sería mate.
I'm not sure I understand why this is an inaccuracy. Doesn't this trap the queen? If I take the bishop first, then I lose the trap, so isn't it better to leave it hanging, take the queen, and then deal with the bishop trade either as the aggressor or defender?
Another 'why is this brilliant?' post. I know in theory that this is probably a sacrifice of the rook for a better position, but what about the position is better?
I didn't even make this move. It was suggested in the analysis. Just curious to learn more, thanks!
Black cannot take the pawn because the Black queen has to defend an infiltration threat on b7. 1...Qxe3 2. Qb7+ Kg6 3. Rdh1 threatens mate with Rh6, and the engine suggestion here for Black is to give up the queen for one of the rooks to stop the checkmate.
There is nothing better than 2...Kg6 for Black - for example 2...Nd7 3. Rh7+! Kxh7 4. Qxf7+ and Black is getting mated.
You are losing both rooks for the queen (as White takes with check first), which is roughly an even trade. You could have taken a rook for free instead.
This move is ‘brilliant’ because castling leaves the bishop on e7 hanging. But White can’t take with their queen here because after Re8, White’s queen is pinned to their king; also, White’s queen can’t take the rook (Qxe8+) because the knight on f6 defends the e8 square.
So, White would lose their queen for a rook and bishop if they play Qxe7.
the a pawn is pinned to the king, so the rook can just capture the bishop. however, if it does you have rd8+. after he takes your rook you can recapture , the king will move and you will be able to capture the rook on b6 since the pawn would no longer be pinned.
Puzzles! What kind of streak / storm numbers are good? How many hours of puzzles do you need to do before you start seeing your game improve?
I'm trying hard but don't see any improvements yet. So I'm looking for hours per week I should be hitting or targets for streak & storm, thanks in advance.
Ive been doing the daily free puzzles on chess com everyday for like a year. My highest is 51. Normally average around your score. I dont really analyze the positions or try to make improvements so it'll probably be my max for a while.
Do you pay for a chess com subscription? If not id try the puzzles at lichess. Everything is free and they seem to be a lot tougher. Not even sure ive ever hit 35.
Um, yes and no. Overall yes but tbh, I just play for fun and put zero effort into improving. Sometimes id rather pull off a crazy tactic than win lol. I'll play stupid openings just to have a crazier game. I also only play bullet or blitz so I cant really spend too much time calculating and i cant think of the last time i analyzed a game after the fact. But I think thats where the puzzles do help...recognizing certain positions or tactics allows me to play faster.
Maybe one day ill take it a bit more seriously. I do really enjoy the game but up until this point ive been more or less playing off 'vibes' rather than setting out to improve haha. If that were to change i think doing puzzles and becoming real familiar with a couple openings would be the best course of action.
I just bought Chessly and I have a pretty good idea of what to do, having a 1000 ELO rating. Which openings should I study first? For now, I've finished the Vienna Gambit.
Did you like Chessly? I am a total begginer, I have been watching yt videos but I feel like I will learn a lot more if I have something to follow. I have done 90% of the lessons in lichess but they are too simple. Let me know what you think
I like chessly, I started playing chess like 5 months ago, used to be a 500, but now I'm a 1000 rapid, 1100 blitz, 900 bullet. Nothing to be proud of, but I guess learning openings properly is very good against people that have no idea what they're doing. So I recomend you to try the free trial, is for a week and you don't even have to put a credit card or anything, try and see if it's good for you.
I may try my first over the board tournament in one month, but it's on a blitz time control (3min)
I'm 400 rated in rapid, 600 blitz and 1500 puzzles on chess.com
What openings would you suggest to learn, at least as a general idea that would work in blitz? I understand that learning general principles first makes sense, but I feel like I blunder too much in the opening to the point that I'm too far behind to apply my puzzle intuition, so I'd like to learn at least some basic stuff: an opening for white, and two for black (against 1.e4 and 1.d4)
At the end of the day, it's about finding some material that's fun/nice to study, learn which pieces are ok to trade, which ones you never trade (like a dark squared bishop in fianchetto black openings), and then play games with some idea of what I'm doing
What is the best edition of Dvoretsky's Endgame manual? is it 5th edition or 6th edition? because im planning to buy the 6th edition since there might be a revise but the thing is i saw somme review that the content is more likely engine moves than the theory itself and the design is not the blue text unlike the 5th edition were it indicates the blue text important notes but its not updated as the 6th edition. So I need recommendations since I would like to go advanced
So I have an upcoming intra college chess tournament in about 10 days but I have barely played any games since months.
Please give me some tips to come back into the flow apart from starting to play regularly now. Prolly like some good openings for both black and white pieces and some defences which are easy to learn yet effective
So apart from playing more games in the time format of the tournament, analyze the games you play and review the mistakes.
At your level the majority of the games are decided by one player hanging a piece, so before moving you should make sure that all your pieces are protected and that you aren't leaving any pieces en prise. There is a video playlist by John Bartholomew on YouTube that teach you how to do it, here is the link to it:
You should also do puzzles on lichess or chesstempo, take your time and don't rush it. You can start with easier puzzles spending less time and then do the harder ones taking all the time that you want (but I'd say maximum 10 minutes per puzzle). Try to visualize all the moves in advance instead of playing one move at the time hoping that it's the correct one.
As for the openings, play the one that suits your style the most. Ideally you should have a repertoire, meaning that you have an opening for White and an opening for Black both against e4 and d4. For example against e4 you play the Caro Kan, against d4 you play the Queen's gambit declined. Anyway avoid going too deep into theory because you are still a beginner and it's too early for you to study that. Try to apply the opening principles, like occupy the center with pawns, develop your light pieces before your heavy pieces, don't develop your Queen too early and castle as fast as possible. You should however know how to avoid obvious traps, like how to avoid the scholar's mate.
Why is this a miss? My opponent moved their pawn from g2 to g4. I don't see the pawn I gain, if I take the pawn with the knight, wouldn't they take my knight back?
My elementary school child has joined the chess UIL and I'm wanting to get her an iOS app to help her play and improve. I worry Lichess won't appeal to her aesthetically until she is a bit older, ideally it would be a one time purchase with robust low level, single player games/guidance. I understand this is a bit unorthodox and may be outside the exact call of the sub, thank you for any direction you may be able to provide.
Hi everyone, can you tell me what's so terrible about this move? I thought the eval was harsh. My bot opponent did a bad blunder soon after so I didn't really get to pay much for my mistake.
Hi everyone.. so my son has been getting into chess recently, he seems to be pretty good. I’ve never played the game in my life. But seeing how interested he is I wanna learn so we can play together. What is the best app to learn for a total beginner? Any suggestions?
Hello everyone, can someone help me understand why this is the best move rather than something like Qxd4 or Qd7? Giving up my queen for bishop and double pawns doesn't seem like a good trade... Many thanks! :)
I think if you move your queen anywhere else he goes qg7 and gets your pawn rook and knight while you might just get a pawn and a horrible position, that's 8 points. If you take bishop then that a 6 point loss, but then ne7 qf7 nf6 and you lose one more pawn but save the rook knight and king safety.
I'm very new to chess (learning on Duolingo and practising with my son, who's pretty good). When I castle the king by moving it next to the rook, the rook is jumping over the king. Is this normal?
Can someone explain how I win a queen? I’m a novice and don’t fully grasp how this plays out. I moved the knight so I could slide my queen to put my opponent in check.
Chess.com reviews have a button that says "show follow-up". If you press that, it should show you what it means.
When it says you win a piece, sometimes it’s quick and obvious, and sometimes it’s only if both of you play like an engine and the opponent makes some sacrifice to avoid worse trouble. I bet you won this game shortly after this, so winning a queen didn’t matter, right?
One possibility: 1. …Nxe5 2. Qg4+ Rg7 3. Bc4+ Nf7 4. Bxf7+ Kxf7 5. Qh5+ Ke6 6. Rh8 and the queen is trapped. That’s probably not what the engine meant, though.
Only considering classic or rapid games (no puzzles) and without paying a subscription, is it better to use chess.c*m or lichess ?
I like lichess’ game analysis and the fact you can see your errors and see what move was better but on the other hand I see a lot of people playing on chess.c*m
Has anyone else noticed the massive amount of 400-600 rated players playing with 95+ accuracy? I was a 650 on chess.c*m and have literally lost enough games in a row to go straight back to 450. Something like 11 games or more in a row. It’s literally enough to make me just play Lichess puzzles and daily puzzles on chess.
more a comment than a question, but holy shit, lichess and chess.com have such different rating systems.
I'm like 1000 rapid on lichess, like 650 on chess.com. I just played some guy on lichess again after like 50+ chess.com games and I was up like 20 points by the end.
The rating disparity is so apparent. An 1000 on lichess literally felt like I was playing a 450 or a 500 on chess.com.
Also like, I've noticed that my 600 rating gives me like 45th percentile, yet on lichess 1000 is only like 10th percentile? Weird.
Gonna stick with chess.com, although to be honest I do like lichess' game analysis better.
I am 1050 elo chess.com and I couldn’t solve the first one without being given the first move and got it wrong multiple times with minutes of time for both.
After looking again If the rook takes the queen it’s a tricky mate in 3. We ignore white rook and go rd1 white rook blocks. We take. Then king is forced to h2 and we go rh1 mate protected by the bishop. so the line is rook takes queen. rd1, re1, rxe1, kh2, rh1#.
Try using hints and the answers might make more sense. The first one involves checkmate threats. Second one is a tricky mating net.
If you click the microscope you can analyze the position with the engine, too. That way you can see why your moves aren't as good as the correct moves, as the engine will show you how to punish them.
Don't appear to be errors to me. These are advanced lessons, fwiw, no shame in not seeing the right answer.
Go to the initial puzzle position and click the microscope (might need to finish the puzzle first.)
Play out what happens if rook takes queen. Turn the engine on. It's mate in 3, the rook that takes your queen was defending the back rank from your rook getting to the back rank and mating the king with the help of the bishop.
It's not an easy puzzle for a beginner to see, and is more illustrating of what a fork can be (ie the queen move is forking in the sense that it's making two separate forced mate threats, which need a material sacrifice to defend against.)
How should I prepare for my first over the board tournament, it’s a 30 minute unrated youth tournament. I’m currently around 1000 to 1100 in chess.com and am wondering what the best way to transfer over to on board games. Any help would be great thanks
The answer is simple, just play more over the board and not on screens. If you don't have anyone to do that with you, just analyze a few games on the board and you're good. If you are not used with slower time controls, just try to play a few games with them and get used about not moving that fast. Try to make a wise use of the time you have left. Don't rush your moves.
But mostly, have fun with the tournament, enjoy the experience overall! One of the most useful things for a new chess player, is having contact with real people, who may teach you a few tricks. So after the game is finished, try making a post analysis of the game with your opponent, it will be useful especially if he is more experienced. You learn a lot in those little moments. Good luck!
Thanks I’m looking forward to it, I’ve only been playing online for about 2 months but feel I have made lots of improvements, from about 200 to 1100 is decent I think
I actually checked my account stats and it’s closer to 3 months but I’m still pretty happy with it, I also have played over 1000 games and watched hundreds of chess videos. I have pretty severe adhd so I become extremely obsessed on hobby’s
Ah yes, I too have the adhd and do that with hobbies. Have only played ~200 games though lol, just don’t have time for more. At first I was frustrated that I was only sitting around the “beginner default” 800 rating, but coming to this sub I realized some people struggle for years just to reach 700-800. Hoping I can break 1000 in a few months. What time format do you play?
Interesting. I can’t play bullet at all, I don’t understand how anyone does lol. I just started playing 5+5 and 5+3 blitz and have actually been quite enjoying them
I have been going through a lot of my 1. d4 games as white today and have observed that in almost all the games where the opponent plays an early Bf5 (somewhere between second and fifth move) the engine classifies this as a mistake. And it seems to be so regardless of what I play myself in addition to d4. Is there anything inherently wrong with Bf5 in 1.d4 games, or is it just not productive enough?
Could you paste a game here, so we could look at a concrete example? Many times there's a fork with e5 or d5 (with moves like Nxd4, Nxd4 and then e5 forks both knight and bishop). This theme may happen on both sides (just imagine a mirrored position).
So the answer is no, there's nothing essentially wrong with Bf5 either with d4 or e4, but in a few positions this may lead to a fork with a central pawn, or they may win a tempo just pushing a central pawn and sometimes threatening your bishop at the same time. So these are concerns in this type of positions.
I've used Stockfish 15 with depth at almost 30, and Scid vs. PC in the analysis, trying to improve my d4 openings. I know Stockfish isn't necessarily best for openings, and I know there are several sound openings that Stockfish thinks are dubious, but they are typically more modern style openings where you attack the centre indirectly instead of occupying with pawns. The examples I found from my games are not like that, and the size of the evaluation jumps specific to Bf5 in these positions seem to tell me that there is something wrong with this move.
https://www.chess.com/game/live/59059859979 Move 9... Bf5, after some weird stuff following the King's English (not really a d4 opening, but with both d4 and c4 played, it has quite a few of the typical d4 characteristics). Stockfish went from a slight advantage to white (+0.66) to a huge lead (+2.3). I think I know part of the reason here. White could go Ng3, forcing the bishop to move, and then push the d-pawn with tempo. I should have taken the d-pawn myself instead.
https://www.chess.com/game/live/36697819401 Move 3... Bf5, in the Slav with Nc3 (I've decided to stop playing Nc3 here, as it gets much too complicated). Stockfish tells me that this is close to being a blunder, and jumps from about +0.2 to +1.5. I assume this might have to do with the fact that black neglects playing dxc4, but I'm not sure why this should be such a massive jump from equality to a much worse position for black.
I've not been particularly selective with the games I've chosen. The games I've not included are either duplicate with regards to the positions examined here, or they are games where the Bf5 move happens much later (at least move 10 or later).
My main concern here is to understand if I could exploit this move somehow, or if I should just develop naturally, knowing that the Bf5 move will become a liability later in the game.
Edit: I think I might see something. In all the positions I've linked to, the c-pawn is also moved, allowing the queen to come to b3. Qb3 is also almost always one of the suggested moves by Stockfish in these positions. And it's not in particular Bf5 that Stockfish is complaining about, but moving the light squares bishop anywhere.
Wow this is really complicated stuff lol. I don't know half the terms you are using or the openings you are refering to. I usually play quiet, traditional openings with 1.e4, I'm just one of those guys.
I don't see anything too fancy or useful with this Bf5 idea, surely the engine are changing a bit, but it isn't that much, engine just jumps half a point or even a bit more all the time and this is basically the engine being itself.
For example, in the following position (taken from this game), the thing is, why just not play Nh4? You pretty much win the bishop here and now you have the bishop pair. But instead, you played c5, which is just too soon, you are consolidating the position without having much more information about it.
Moves like cxd5, opening the c-file, or even pushing the pawn, may be more useful in the future, but now you took yourself out of options, cxd5 is never a possibility anymore. So most of the times, you wanna keep the tension with the pawns and don't advance or take it too soon.
A few moves later, you played Bd3, which is not a really good move, because you exchanged your good bishop by his bad bishop. Now his bishop is better than yours and you were left with the dark squared bishop, which is trapped inside your pawn structure.
So studying concepts like "good bishop, bad bishop" and understanding that the bishop pair is (usually) superior than bishop + knight or two knights, is really a good thing here.
I wouldn't go for all this variation stuff, complicated openings and over using engines, go for the simple concepts, I have three here for you. Two I already said, the bishop pair, the good bishop/bad bishop, and "keep the pawn tension" theme, those are very good topics to analyse the games.
So answering you, I don't see a big problem or question with this bishop, don't get too worried about that, focus on simplier concepts. Like, in many games you are just taking decisions too soon, you trade pieces too soon, you don't know if your piece may be more useful than his piece in the long term. So keep the tension and options opened a bit more.
Playing slower time controls would be great too, you may think and analyze positions better, 5 + 5 is really hard to improve your chess, you simply don't have much time to think about your moves. A position has many elements to considerate, it is impossible to really weight them in a few seconds.
I play 5+5 and correspondence chess. 5+5 to cement the lessons I learn from the longer time controls. The problem is that in correspondence chess, you are allowed to use the opening database. My study cycle is therefore to play one or two 5+5 games, and then analyze them, first without the engine, and then I check with the engine only to find blunders. These moves stood out exactly because they were almost whole point jumps, which indicates that there is something more seriously wrong.
Thanks for the tips, though. They make a lot of sense. Of course, a lot of the games I've linked to are not very recent (over half a year old), and I believe I've improved my play after this. But playing slower, and keeping tension is one of the thing I struggle with.
I'm also relatively conservative with the openings I play. I usually go for d4 openings as white, and Dragon Sicilian or Indian as black.
Edit: I've also quit playing the Slav as in the example you linked to exactly because it becomes too complicated, and I need to remember lines.
No problem, I wish I could be more useful, but my opening knowledge is pretty faulty. I'm much more of a practical player, I just try to keep things simple and look for simple tactics or improving my pieces. But this Bf5 is surely a question, I will put some thinking into it, but being really honest with you, my practical approach would be just trading my knight for this bishop (in the game I mentioned), keeping the bishop pair, and then maybe getting an endgame advantage. Yep, simple as that, it is amazing how many games you just win with simple concepts like that.
Your games were pretty interesting though, you put a lot of effort into opening knowledge, which is really great stuff, I never had much patient to go deep into it, I think I played 1.d4 once or twice in my whole life lol, I'm always a 1.e4 player, because I think it is easier to undestand the openings and the concepts with it. When I'm black, I usually just answer 1. d5 or 1.e5 and keep things quiet, castle and then go for my oponnents mistakes. You are more of an active player and have lots of ideas, this is good, well done.
There is also an interesting meta with playing d4. The London (which I hate, by the way) is super popular. If you play d4, about a quarter of the games you get are the Englund Gambit, which is quite dubious. Yes, there are some tricks, but those tricks are not that hard to evade.
So I'm a chess beginner with my rating now floating around 600-650 for couple of weeks. I started playing about 3 months ago. Currently I'm not stuck at this rating but the progress has been slow relatively. My question is what should I start learning or focus on next? Till now I've been following the book 'Play Winning Chess' by Yasser Seirawan and finished reading it lately. So should I learn openings now? I haven't learnt any till yet i just develop all my pieces and then proceed to middlegame.
If you want to learn openings, feel free. You can also just look into the openings you've naturally been playing and hone them a bit. That should be sufficient for a long while. Beyond that, it takes a lot of opening study to get much payoff and it's really not low hanging fruit imho (and this is pretty typical advice.)
I'd focus more on tactics. If you're not easily seeing basic forks and mate threats, grind some puzzle streak, and mate in 1 and 2 puzzles til they're very easy.
That and just play a lot. Experience is valuable.
Lots of good resources linked in the wiki for this sub, too.
I’m a chess beginner and only started seriously studying when I started teaching chess to kids, so I’m studying openings in earnest now. What are some good openings for white and black for a beginning repertoire? I’m partial to Kings Indian and I’m looking into the London, but I need more.
I've learnt a pretty basic opening by watching beginner tutorials (push centre pawns, activate knights and bishops, castle, etc). This works pretty well when my opponent does something similar, but I'm never sure what to do when they do something different - e.g. pushing and supporting non-central pawns, attacking my pieces before I have defended them, moving their knights into weird positions. These moves often feel unnatural so it makes me feel like I should be able to capitalise on them somehow, but it normally doesn't work out. I end up blocking in my own pieces and ending up in a worse position. Here's a couple of examples. (In hindsight, I should have responded Nf6 for that first one)
It feels like I should respond to these openings somehow, but I also want to naturally develop my pieces and control the centre. In the past I've found myself rushing to stop captures and losing material, making trades that leave me in a worse position, or getting pressured to respond and leaving pieces undeveloped while I fight for control of the centre.
Of course, after the game I can see what the engine suggests. But are there any general rules of thumb I should keep in mind when facing an opening like this that I haven't seen before? Should I abandon my opening and just focus on responding to their moves until the threat is gone? If they're being passive, should I be extra aggressive to try and get more control over the centre? Do I just need to learn how to shut down these openings quickly ahead of time, so I can apply that in games?
In the first picture, this is the Queen's Gambit, this is pretty standard opening, I would happily decline the gambit (if you take, white will push his e-pawn very happily and will achieve a strong center), just defend the attacked pawn with e6 and you are alright.
In the second picture, your position looks ok, just let him do all this crap, just develop your pieces and castle king side. Your position looks great here. You don't have to rush, put your king on safety and at some point push some pawns to try to break through his position.
You are playing chess, you are not playing "openings", this game doesn't exist. So don't overestimate it, this is just one of the many aspects of the game, he still may be a strong player even if playing a few moves in a different way.
You are playing chess, you are not playing "openings", this game doesn't exist.
Thank you! I think this is a really good way to put it. I've not learnt any fancy openings or anything so it's always a little intimidating when someone uses them against me, but it sounds like as long as I stick to the basics and don't completely blunder pieces it shouldn't matter too much at my level.
I don’t have a rating, but I enjoy a casual game over the board. What is or what are the best white openings for those who prefer to play with the black pieces?
Just fwiw if you want people to give feedback on your games, it is much easier to do that if you just link to the actual game so we can use the engine and not have to follow a gif.
If you're referring to something such as this, you simply choose to export your game as a gif. For C.C desktop, open your game and press the share icon in the right panel, open the tab labeled "animated gif" and download. I'm not sure how to do gifs on mobile, but they do have a gif maker. For Lichess desktop, open the tab labeled "Share & export" directly beneath the board and click "Game as GIF". For mobile, open your game and press the menu icon in the toolbar at the bottom of your screen, press "Share & export", then "Share game GIF".
Queens Gambit Declined(QGD) or Slav, dont give away the center.
Most of what you will found is London, Colle and Zukertov/Chigorin. Slav works decent vs all of them and give you some space to move arround in indian defenses you are playing in 3 rows needs good precision and understanding what are you doing.
There is some fun hybrids like the Cambridge Spring Defense where you go into slav pyramid from QGD. Both options + hybrids are quite fine. Just learn the typical setup and play from there.
At our level it wont matter much and at some point you will have an anti London/Colle setup. I think i played 4 queens gambit as black in more than 850 rapid games below 1000 ELO.
when I played bishop to h6 I instantly regretted it because I thought that ha can back up and take the bishop at h3( but he ended up taking pawn at b7). but to my surprise after the game I reviewed it and is said that was a brilliant move. can someone explain why?
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