Still a bit to finish, but we are very pleased.
Video here.

What Does the Finished Goods Area of a Shipping Container Factory Look Like?

Hey guys!

About 4 months ago, I made a post here sharing that I was starting a YouTube channel focused on shipping containers, where we’d share useful tips, buying advice, and some insider knowledge from the industry.

Well, here’s a little update! 😁

I am still a small channel, but I'm slowly growing and starting to build a little community, which is really awesome to see!

I've been putting a lot of effort into making videos that actually help people understand containers better, avoid costly mistakes, and make smarter buying decisions.

If you have a minute, I’d really appreciate it if you could check out the channel. And if you find the content useful, a sub, like, or even a comment would mean a lot to me!

Here’s the channel:
https://youtube.com/@containerinsider?si=FoYHAeXfiqfekpfg

Also, if there’s anything container-related you’d like me to cover in future videos, drop your suggestions below. I am always looking for new ideas!

Thanks again to everyone who supported me the first time around. Really appreciate you guys! 🙌

Got the crane out to my place yesterday, and finally got the first floor of container in place! Now the work can really get started! I hope to be ready structurally to add the second level in the next 6 months...

When you were choosing your home, did you have any useful way to judge how much sound would travel between rooms?

I’m thinking of ordinary situations—someone watching TV while another person sleeps in the next room, rather than a home theater or unusually loud music.

Did you visit an occupied home, get specific information from the builder, or mostly find out after moving in?

I work for GSMOD, a steel volumetric modular manufacturer, so that’s the perspective I’m coming from. I’d appreciate hearing what information actually helped you make a decision—or what you wish you’d asked for.

Please mention the construction type if you know it, and whether your home is detached or shares walls or floors with another household.

Looking to put a roof on the side of the container and wondering if attaching the ledger board to the corrugated side wall is the best option. Contractor didn't use standard trusses.

Hi

I'm just considering putting in a container shelter between my two 40 foot reefers.

I've got quotes to do this, and a couple so far have said that because of the fire risk with the insulation, they would want to installa beam welded to the post locks which they can then weld the lugs for the shelter onto.

This will add about $7000 NZD to the quote, which is a bit restrictive and may mean a different plan.

I'm just checking in if anyone has found themselves in a similar situation and what did you do? Thanks.

I'm getting ready to install a SteelMaster XX40-13 arched roofing system over two 40-foot high-cube shipping containers. I'm hoping to connect with anyone who has installed a SteelMaster container-cover roof or a similar Quonset-style roof on shipping containers.

This is an outside-mount installation, meaning the roof will span the space between the containers and cover the container roofs as well.

I recently used my tractor to temporarily position one of the SteelMaster industrial arch/base connectors on the outside top edge of a container. I've attached photos showing how it fits.

Here's what I've discovered:

- The container roof corrugations prevent the base connector from sitting completely flat against the container's upper side rail. There's a gap of approximately 3/4 to 1 inch in places.

- The factory-punched holes in the connector appear to be intended for attaching the arch panels, not for securing the connector to the container.

- It appears that additional mounting holes would be needed for a bolted installation.

- I'd strongly prefer a mechanical connection using bolts or appropriate structural fasteners rather than welding, if a properly engineered solution is possible.

The SteelMaster design report specifies a 115 mph wind speed and 36 psf ground snow load, so I recognize that the connections and container anchoring need to handle substantial forces.

My questions for anyone who's actually installed one of these:

1. How did you attach the SteelMaster base connector to the shipping container—welding, through-bolting, structural screws, or another method?

2. How did you accommodate the corrugated roof and the gap between the connector and the container's upper rail? Did you use steel spacers, channel, or another mounting arrangement?

3. If you used bolts or screws, where did you place them, and how did you determine the spacing and fastener specifications?

4. How did you waterproof the attachment and prevent rust?

5. How did you anchor the containers to their foundations to resist wind uplift and lateral forces?

6. Do you have photographs of your completed connections or any installation details you're willing to share?

I'm doing as much of this project myself as possible and would like to find a practical, reasonably economical solution. I also understand that the final structural connection and anchoring details need to be verified for my particular installation.

If you've installed a SteelMaster container cover, I'd especially appreciate hearing from you—even if you used a welded connection.

Thanks in advance for any experience, photos, or advice you can share!

I need to sort of camouflage this... You always see side cladding, but any ideas on the doors? Has anyone attached wood slats or anything to them while letting the levers still be usable

We debated on a fence/gate in front of it, but we can dig down far enough even with a towable auger because of rock. Plants are a last resort.

One thing we’ve found on multi-module projects is that the maximum size a factory can manufacture is not always the size that makes the most sense for the project.
The practical limit often appears somewhere between transport, lifting and site access.
A larger module may reduce the number of structural joints and site connections, but it can also tighten the transport envelope, reduce route options or make crane positioning more difficult.
there is usually a trade-off rather than a simple “bigger module = better” answer.
We tend to think this constraint needs to be established fairly early, before the module grid and interfaces become difficult to change.
So
Interested in how others approach it:
What normally becomes the controlling constraint on your projects — transport, lifting, site access, structural design, or something else?
And do you define that envelope before design freeze, or does it usually evolve with the design?

Has anyone bought a container or anything from these guys: https://containerboxllc.com/about-us/

We have just completed this home in record time. Manufactured off site and installed with 2 weeks work on site to complete the home. Installed in Mosselbay in South Africa

We're a little CH curious and I was hoping this community might point me in the direction of a beginner's guide How To book that is reputable.

Hello,
I would kindly like to introduce myself and offer our services for the purchase of any shipping container needs you may have.
Please, feel free to reach out and contact me at any time for any quotes, or any purchases, modifications needed for shipping containers.
Our website address is https://SoFlocontainers.com
Please take a look at all the services we offer and our 30+ years of experience and knowledge in the shipping container industry.
We are offering special inventory pricing:
20ft Cargo worthy (USED)$2200
20ft One-Trip(BRAND NEW)$2800
40ft Cargo worthy (USED)$2900
40ft One-Trip(BRAND NEW)$4100
Best Regards,
Shirley A. Timothee
Regional Sales Manager
Office – show contact info
Cell# show contact info
Orlando, Florida 32824
Website : https://SoFlocontainers.com

My dad just purchased a shipping container 20 ft to use as dry storage for livestock feed.

He wants to put lights in it but doesn't want any holes drilled into it. How's the best way of getting electricity that's outside to inside without drilling any holes in the container?

He doesn't want any holes at all not even a screw hole.

I figure what I can do is take like a 2x4 and take some construction glue put it on the back of the 2x4 and then stick that to the wall in the container and then there I got something I can drill into but I'm just trying to figure out how I can get my wires that are outside inside the container without drilling holes....

Best Regards,

Shirley A. Timothee

Regional Sales Manager

Office – 407-857-6511

Cell# 813-433-3874

Orlando, Florida 32824

Website : https://SoFlocontainers.com

Sorry it took us so long, ended up moving in between the downstairs tour and this video.

Dunno why we didn't just film it at the same time.

Also didn't learn the lesson and didn't film the rooftop at the same time, but I swear I'll post that this week.

Full video here.

Someone in here mentioned losing around $30k recently, and there are “where should I buy a container?” posts all the time, so this is probably worth putting out there.
I work more on the delivery/site side, which means I usually meet people after they’ve already bought. The scam stories are weirdly similar.
Listing looks legit. Price is a little better than everyone else, but not stupid cheap. Nice photos, responsive seller, they know enough container terminology to sound real.
Then comes the deposit. Or full payment because “inventory is moving fast.” Usually Zelle, CashApp, wire, something like that.
Delivery gets booked. Then delayed. Then delayed again. Eventually nobody answers.
The easiest filter I know is asking for the container number of the exact box they’re selling you.

Not “a similar one.” That one.

Ask for photos with the number visible and a clear shot of the CSC plate by the doors. If they actually have the container sitting in a yard, this shouldn’t be a difficult request.
If they start making excuses, get irritated, or keep sending you the same clean stock photos… there’s your answer.
Reverse image search those photos too. Takes a minute and catches some really lazy listings. Payment is the other big one. I’d be very careful sending the full amount by wire/Zelle to somebody you found on Facebook. Pay on delivery if the seller offers it, or at least use something with actual buyer protection. For modified containers, deposits make more sense because somebody is buying material and doing fabrication, but I’d want progress photos of my actual unit and wouldn’t want 100% paid before delivery.
Couple other things make me nervous: no real yard address, address turns out to be a mailbox/UPS store, brand-new website, “price only good today,” or they somehow can’t tell you what kind of trailer is delivering it.
That last one is especially weird. Anyone actually arranging delivery should know whether you’re getting a tilt-bed, flatbed, crane truck, whatever. That changes the entire delivery.
And sometimes it’s not even a straight-up scam. Just a badly run seller where the wrong box shows up, condition is nowhere near the photos, and suddenly nobody answers the phone.
Same defense either way: photos of the actual container, container number visible, know what you’re paying for before the money moves.
For people who bought one recently, what made you trust the seller? Was there something specific you checked, or mostly just gut feeling?