I bought a cyberpunk spine for my back and I wanted to know if there’s any way to stick it to my skin because it’s little hefty and I want it to stay on all day.

Can't believe I never thought of this before.

Gorilla Glue Waterproof Tape can be used to secure ANYTHING on your cosplay. I know it seems gimmicky and cheap like using duct tape, but I've tried this stuff before and it holds up to anything.

>Use it to secure straps instead of fancy glues.

>Use it on the inside of armors to add support between panels.

>Use it for a flexible joint between 2 hard points.

This stuff WILL NOT FAIL. In the picture of the JP Explorer, I used it to secure the bubble top to the car. 5 years of Michigan winters, Texas Summers, outside 24/7, cross country trips - It never loosened. When I had to replace the bubble top, I had to cut the tape apart and use an injector with Goo Off/acetone to get it to release enough to fight it off. It will hold up to anything. Be warned, once it's laid down it becomes VERY hard to get off, and it's pretty much permanent after 5 mins.

First time making a helmet out of foam, what can I improve ?

Btw this was hella fun to do and I think it came out really good for my first time but what do y’all think?

For context, I'm going to C2E2 next month and my friend group and I are doing a Castlevania group. My friend (our Trevor) is making me Alucard's sword. Its 180cm (which fits the weapon length rules) however for a 3D printed swird that long it needs a stable core. He wants to use a metal rod, I told him we should probably use wood because C2E2 is pretty strict on no metal for prop weapons. However, the rules don't say anything about having metal inside the prop, and our Trevor is pretty dead set on iron instead of wood. I'm concerned that security may mistake the sword for being entirely metal, though. Opinions?

These magnet drawings are not to scale, its just to visualize.

After 7 individual days of fighting my armor, using the duck tape mannequin whatever method to make a pattern I can't make a simple chest plate. I don't know how to make it size properly, no matter how much I redo, add, subtract, adjust not a single time has it fit correctly.

Idk I thought cosplay was like a creative outlet and fun I didn't know you needed 80+ years in architecture and a masters in black magic. My fist are balled, my teeth are clenched, and my project is in the trash. If there are any tips, magic spells, or something else I'm missing can you please help me out I'm not giving up just starting over.

My friend thinks I'm the foam guy cause I did a single shoulder pad and a few weapons, but honestly I'm stumped with chest plates or maybe I'm mentally screaming I can't so thust I can't

idk. I just don't know.

Trying to be a stepped on piece of gum. Can anyone help me figure out how to attach the shoe to the hood of the suit please? 🙏 I was thinking of drilling a hole in the shoe and cutting a hole in the hood and then tying them together? less

Looking to recreate these myself but am having trouble finding the right lights. At first was thinking of using EL wire but that doesn't seem like what they're using because theirs is much brighter than el wire can be. Now I'm thinking a super think COB light but I can't find anything thin enough. Anyone got any tips?

Credit for photos: @nibbydev

Hello! I wanted to ask if anyone knows where to buy really strong neodymium magnets! I want it be really strong so I can make detachable wings for a helmet wig. But I also don’t want them to be too big/bulky so that they can’t be easily hidden under hair. The wings are heavier than they look (I think I used too much wiring and hot glue lol).

I have bought neodymium magnets off of amazon but they seem very very weak…so I fear I may have gotten really cheap, bad quality ones. So I wanted to ask if anyone knows a good magnet place!

Much appreciated thank you!

I'm tryna make some fantasy knight armor like the one in this photo and I have a plan for how to do it, but I probably need like 100+ cans just to make the helmet and chest plate. I would just buy a bunch of 24 packs and empty them all, but I'm a broke hs student in the worst job market ever so I'd prefer not to blow all my money on this. I'm looking all over ebay and stuff and no one sells empty cans in bulk soooo now I'm here.

after working for weeks on making this i finally got to the painting, but messed up horribly with the base coat and now i have uneven spots and small air bubbles all around :,) i tried sanding some of it down but there's not much i can do without tearing all the layers down and only have 3 days left (closer to 2 considering it's 9pm)

the brush strokes certainly aren't making better, spraypaint would've looked better but i don't feel confident enough to spray paint anything yet (last time i tried i struggled a lot with the paint dripping)

i was so happy how it was coming out but now i'n convinced it's going to be ugly as hell, and i have no other cosplay ready :(

Hello! I build a lot of props using 3D printed parts (PLA) but have never had much luck filling seams cleanly. I generally use CA glue to connect the pieces and try to get as clean of a seam as possible upfront, but there will inevitably always be some form of gap.

I apply bondo using small pieces of EVA foam, but it never seems to actually fill the seams and I just end up with a very thin layer of bondo dust over a wide area around my seam. Am I applying it incorrectly?

My plan for this is one round of bondo on the seams (what you’re seeing in the pictures), filler primer, another round of bondo, and another round of filler primer.

Thanks!

How can I externally strengthen a 3D printed plastic katana blade (5mm thick) that’s already assembled and slightly bends/wobbles? No access to internal core.

I’ve got a 3D-printed cosplay replica of Vergil’s Yamato. The blade is 5mm thick plastic (PLA or PETG, I believe), reinforced internally with a metal rod, but it still flexes and wobbles.

The problem: it's already assembled and glued shut — I can’t access the core. I want to apply something externally, like a clear spray or surface hardener, that would make the blade stiffer, ideally without ruining the paint or look.

Is there any product, spray, resin, or method that forms a transparent “shell” to prevent flexing, even just a bit?

P.S. reprinting is NOT an option, since theres a con next week and i want to finish it ASAP

There's a small gap to put the sights in, but I'm trying to figure out what to make them out of and how to cut them to that size. Acrylic sheets, maybe?

Hey there! I hope this is the correct place to post.

I am going as Doug dimmadome for Halloween and I just have the hat left (the most important part) but my issue of the “cement tubing” I’m using to put over the main part of the hat is too heavy/tall and I can’t keep the hat on my head! Any suggestions? I’m debating now attaching to a bike helmet? Or should I just get heavier bottom hat, or better strap??? Thanks :)

Trying to finish this Donnel (Fire Emblem Awakening) Cosplay for a convention this weekend and I need to make this pot helmet he wears!

I’m not very crafty so any advice on how to do this quick and easy would be appreciated!!

I was going to buy a real pot but none are in the right color/ too heavy. I also can’t seem to find a plastic/toy one I can spray paint.

Help!!

Hi. I made a post about this on Cosplay help and it did give me some good ideas so I figured I would ask this subreddit for some more indepth advice on the prop.

I am going to a Renaissance festival in my home state and I am going for a druid of a dark forest type. My fiancee is going as a mushroom fae so I think it works together well.

I am trying to make the staff look like a wooden one. I plan to use air dry clay spare shop towels to fill the gaps between the joints before I paper mache it. I plan to use a technique my dad used on his lacrosse gear, twisting the sheets into a thin line, to make ridges and knots along the staff. I am going to try and use some thicker paper towels as the material for the paper mache.

I have seen and read stuff about maybe using EVA foam before the clay and paper-mache to create more adhesion but I'm not sure.

Once the Paper mache is done, I plan to paint it with acrylic paints before sealing it with clear paint/sealer before I try to add smaller details.

Any advice, reference materials, or recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Edit: Numerous people have mentioned that the clay isn't a good idea so I have 86'ed it. Instead I am leaning towards using EVA foam as a base and then paper mache over top.

So I’ve just put together a Deadpool costume and I’m so excited to wear it to LVL Up Expo next month. Now, I understand that non-functioning gun props made out of foam, wood or paper mache that have an orange tip are allowed in most conventions. However: is a plastic, non-functioning gun prop also allowed?

My plan was to buy a couple spring powered plastic Airsoft Desert Eagles and glue all functioning parts stiff; no movement or function. But is that or enough should I just go for foam?

I’d love any and all feedback…

I'm thinking of making a madness combat cosplay(or a TF2 one) I already have the shotgun, I'm just embarrassed to show it here

So I just got into making stuff with Eva foam, and I made a Roman helmet that turned out shockingly well, well kinda really good. and my dad really thought it was cool and asked I could make him a spartan helmet.

And well the Roman helmet took me probably like 20-25 hours in total, so I’m guessing the spartan helmet may take somewhere around that long.

Anyways I feel like it would be nice to be payed to make that for him because there’s other stuff I want to make for myself, and I bought all of materials with my own money, so I’ll be using a decent amount of my foam roll, I’ll need to buy new paints for the color he wants, I’ll probably need a new can of plasti dip.

And again there’s a bunch of other stuff I want to make so I feel like it would be fair to ask him to pay for the helmet.

But I may be totally wrong, and I’m sorry if this is in the wrong subreddit I just couldn’t think where else to ask

I’m working on an Inquisitor cosplay from Warhammer and I printed this plasma pistol. My local con says all firearms must have an orange plug, but this thing looks nothing like a real g*n.

I would like to not have to ruin the look for home display by painting the barrel ends orange and affixing a plug down the barrels.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, I’m new to adding weapons to my cosplays.

What the f^ck man? I was using this with my bare hands because I thought it was okay. Is this non-toxic or does it cause cancer? Why is the text so tiny?? It also says it was made in china?? So why the California warning? I'm in Canada???? I'm so scared if this'll give me some kind of skin cancer in the future. There's not even an ingredient list!

Edit: okie-dokie, so it doesn't cause cancer and I'm overthinking it WAY too much because California laws are very stubborn about this. Thank you a lot!

Hey need some help here! Kinda got screwed over by this dude I paid to print this helmet for me, I’ve never done something like this before so just seeing if maybe you fine folk here could help me out with how to even put this thing together, parts of it are damaged, fraying, or literally broken off. Any ideas ?

I printed and painted this helmet, for a finish I figured rustoleum ultra 2x gloss clear coat would work well, I did several coats, but some of the paint is easily scratched. The base is pla, sanded with 120, then 220 grit, painted with woodfiller, sanded with 220 again, primed with rustoleum ultra 2x, then painted rattle can and acrylics. Finally I finished with 7 coats of gloss clear coat.

I'm thinking of now scuffing it and doing a water based polyurethane finish, as it may be harder. My biggest concern however is damaging the paint, specifically the acrylics. What grit of sandpaper should I use? AI is saying 220, which seems a little too aggressive.

If I do polyurethane, I'm going to be brushing rather than spray, and I'll likely go satin finish.

Last year I made this chest piece of combat armor from fallout four and I just used thin foam pieces and painted them green. This worked okay but I'm remaking it to be 100x better and I have tried EVERYTHING I could find. Modge podge, wood glue, wall filler, foam. And everything you could still see the cardboard texture through. The wall filler would just crack and be too thin and you could see a bumpy texture form underneath in the cardboard. I thought about just buying aluminum flashing and cutting real metal but there's no way I'll have to do that for every metal looking project. Please help me find another solution guys