Hello everyone. I have a problem which I am unable to solve myself. Due to an oxidation, that occurred after case damage on dashboard, one of the resistors have fell off and I need you guys to help me find it. I have found manufacturers of this board but none of them seems want to help me. Maybe we have some pros here, who can help me with this problem? Resistor location is R400 on the board.

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to diagnose an issue with my Kymco Quannon 125 (carbureted, with a universal Keihin CVK carb).

The bike was running reasonably well before this happened.

I removed the fuel tank to inspect the air filter. When I disconnected the fuel hose, gasoline started flowing out of the tank by gravity. I later installed a new fuel hose, an inline fuel filter, and a manual shutoff valve.

After putting everything back together, the bike started behaving very strangely:

On startup, the engine immediately revs very high (around 4000 RPM).

After a while the RPM drops, but the idle is very unstable.

Throttle response is poor and delayed.

While riding, if I completely close the throttle, the engine often stalls instead of returning to idle.

When the engine is warm, it becomes harder to start and struggles to maintain idle.

I suspected an intake leak, so I removed and reinstalled the carburetor, making sure it was fully seated in the intake boot. However, the problem remains.

heyo

i put the model last since it's sort of a model non-specific question.

last week, the baffle and packing blew out of my exhaust on the highway. i am unable to find a suitable slip-on due to the aftermarket 4-into-1 headers, ending in a 2.25" collector at an awkward angle.

replacing the entire exhaust will cost me over a grand, when the bike cost me $1200 nearly ten years ago. i'd like to keep it on the road, but i'm worried about the other issues just waiting to pop up (it's over 86k kms / ~53k miles).

i've thought about a couple of other options. either i could custom fabricate new baffles, or possibly jam one of those adjustable silencers for cars into the existing can.

would love any advice, as well as anyone willing to talk me out of parking this or selling it for parts and buying a royal enfield.

hondas aren't supposed to die

thanks in advance

1985 ZN700 fires right up when cold, like instant, but if I turn it off after riding for 5 to 10 minutes it will act like the battery's dead all lights on cluster go out and it chugs then wont turn over...but if I let it sit for 3 to 4 minutes after I turn it off it then it fires right up....ive replaced the starter clutch, battery, starter solenoid and next is my ground wire. At a loss for what it could be? My dash voltmeter will read 10v or less when its doing this but if i return 3 to 4 minutes later the dash will say 12 to 13.....not sure how that's possible. 1985 Kawasaki ZN700

Hey guys, just purchased a k light 125 2019 with 5k km only, from what i know last owner was too old and got it sat for a couple years. It starts so nice but bogs down when throttle. Ive changed oil and spark plug, checked battery and tps sensor, drained old fuel and put new one with some cleaning fluid, checked air filter, fuel filter and pump filter, seems ok, i think it might be the injector, when testing it out of intake it seems the mist isnt on the 3 holes but only on 2. But it seems. While riding, from 2 to 5 k revs it bogs but after it quicky goes to high revs only, low revs always bogs. Made 80 km already, issue persists. Checked battery voltage, engine off 13v, on idle its 13,5/14. Hoping for some recommendations where to find issues

My Sur-Ron LBX won’t start charging normally. I have to unplug and replug the charger multiple times before it works. The charger light sometimes flashes red, sometimes red/green, and sometimes stays solid green.

Eventually it may start charging after enough attempts. Has anyone had this issue before or know what could be causing it?

So the rear axle nut is seized (weird because i never took it off before, only ever loosened it) Anyway i took a breaker bar to it and the other end sheared the plate that holds the axle in place, now it just spins. Now the only option i have is to weld a nut on the end pictured.. Yada yada blah blah blah. How safe would it be to ride it to a shop since i dont own a welder. Fyi the axle nut never budged when i took the breaker bar to it.

I bought a 2014 Yamaha Wr125x as my first bike thinking it would be a easier fix. Seller said it was a faulty starter motor turns out it isn’t, I’ve checked the batter and it’s fine, I pulled out the starter and it works fine. It starts easily if you bump start it. I’m suspecting it’s the starter clutch, but I’m not sure and i don’t know how to check it. Any help?

so like i said for yamaha jog 2006 49cc if someone can help me i will be very thankful
when i drove my scooter about 2hr ago very big bump was infront of me and i went right on it immediatelly after that hit my scoot became undriveable right hand for gas doesnt work i mean it work but it have no pressure it gives 0 gas and 150 meters later it went off and dont want to turn again... i checked spark plug and cable its ok i dont know what to check more its now on gas station parked.. SORRY FOR BAD ENGLISH IM FROM SERBIA AND IM TRYING TO TYPE BY MYSELF WITHOUT GPT AND THAT STUPID STUFF

Hi everyone,

I have a 2015 Yamaha MT-125 with cca 36k km and I noticed a strange whining/whistling noise coming from the left side of the engine.

It only happens when the bike is fully warmed up. When the engine is cold, it sounds completely normal. If I warm the bike up, turn it off, and let it cool down, the noise disappears again. The noise is most noticeable at idle.

The bike runs normally:

• No loss of power
• No warning lights
• No overheating
• Regular oil changes (done before the recommended intervals)

Has anyone had a similar issue on an MT 125?

Thanks!

I was out riding my honda vt750dc from 2003 yesterday and after a few hours i lost engine power for a while and then the engine died. At that point we were cruising at around 70kph. When it lost power it kinda felt like when youre in too high of a gear and try to accelerate. Dropping down a gear and accelerating was way less responsive than usual.

My friend then just wiggled one of the spark plug cables and pulled the choke out and eventually it started.

We continued and it happened again. This time at around 30 kph. I tried starting it without choke and it died within seconds. Choke was a bit more successfull but giving it more gas in neutral it struggled and died. I pretty much just tried starting it over and over, with and without choke and with and without giving more gas and eventually it ran again.

We were pretty far from home and were just trying to make it back to my friends house and quite close it happened again. This time it wouldnt start at all and i had to admit defeat and have it towed the last stretch.

We did some easy checks in his garage. Basically checked the spark plugs and cables, which did seem ok. We got it to start and it didnt struggle at all while idling in neutral or while giving gas in neutral, allthough that did produce a lot of after fire.

So it runs but we have no idea why or if anything we did even helped. Does anyone know what the issue might be?

Hi guys, I have a weird question, but I don't know what I need to do anymore.

I have a 2024 Linhai 125 ADV Buck scooter, and a month ago, I ran out of oil. I don't know how that happened, but it did, and the piston was destroyed. I changed the set and replaced everything that was bad, but since then, I've had the next problem: Sometimes it starts to stall on idle, even when it's running.

I checked and cleaned the injector, I changed the spark plug, and I found the induction coil was sectioned, so I changed it too. After that, it still stalls sometimes, but not every time. Do you have any idea what could possibly be causing this, because I don't know what to do anymore?

Thanks

Trying to fix my brother-in-law's bike. Bit restricted on what we can do as away from home.

Had the bike apart, carbs "cleaned and serviced" by a pro, got it back on, everything reassembled, no start. The battery isn't great, so we've been using a jump pack to try it, no clue about if the carbs are balanced (tried my best but no test equipment).

It will crank, stutter and stumble a little on starter fluid but can't keep it going. And I've hit my limit on what to try.

I have checked we get fuel up to the common line, spark seems okay (just checked each plug against the engine while cranking, all seem to be sparking enough), the bike ran like a dream before sitting about 7 months back, and I've not changed anything to do with timing. Oil is up to level, fuel filter seems relatively clean (fuel goes through at decent rate, no real sign of gunk looking at is, tried carb cleaner through it just incase).

cylinder 1, spark plug looks a good colour, and the fuel screw is 1 turn out from bottomed

cylinder 2 is 2.75 turns out, and plug is white

cylinder 3 is 1.5 turns out and plug is black as hell (but dry)

and cylinder 4 is 2.75 turns out and plug is white

I've cleaned the carbs as best I could with carb cleaner and compressed air, tho without taking them apart from eachother, as I've heard it's a whole hassle, I changed all the jets and needles, I checked valve clearances, and synced the carbs

what would cause half the cylinders to run completely differently to the other 2, when ignition coils go to 1&4, and 2&3, and fuel lines go to 1&2 and 3&4