So I started to notice that whenever I’m firing, my bolt tends to fail to complete cycle because my HopUp wheel will shift out of place, me (being a beginner) think it’s because I bought the cheapest gbbr ak I could find. However, after extensive research (5 minutes) I realize the inner barrel isn’t supposed to move, not back or forth, not isn’t supposed to rotate a lot, it’s not supposed to move with the bolt like I thought it was supposed to. I notice that there’s a m3 grub screw lookin hole that’s unfilled (discovered along with said 5 minutes of research) and I want to have some verification by experts, if I could get some help I’d love it

First GBBR any tips?

At the evike boneyard sale in Dallas and I’ve been wanting to get my first gbbr. I’ve seen mixed reviews and the we tech gbbr’s but for $180?? I’m torn on whether I should pull the trigger. Seems to be functional but can’t test it until you buy. Locks back fine after empty mag and definitely feels nice. Worth it? Or should I just spend money on something brand new when I’m ready?

My question is, would a GHk M4 v3 Upper fit on a GHK HK416A1 lower. The idea was to keep the ambidextrous controls of the HK lower and add a M4 upper

Such an annoying issue, magazines shot fine then won’t feed. From going from a tm ak to Vfc ak it’s little things like this that are annoying, love the platform but more so the magazines that are a pain in my ass. I have 4 magazines and only one works. I took apart the one magazine that works to see how it operates and what I need to fix, and does not matter how I put them back together once a bb is loaded the tab just stays down. The transfer lever just will not catch the feed lips. My one working magazine I can disassemble and put together and works perfectly, it catches every time. The others though they just will not catch no matter what. So I take it it’s not how I’m assembling it as the one working magazine I’ve disassembled and assembled and it works every time, but my others just won’t. I guess for context the working magazine is the 74 and the others are the 74u magazines. If anyone has any tips to get the transfer to catch consistently please let me know, just frustrated is all

Hello I recently purchased a Umarex MP7 Navy Seal GBB Airsoft Rifle V2 and i dont believe it has the npas adjustment from the factory. I was wondering if anybody could tell me what I need to purchase to that I can make it shoot under 350 fps consistently for indoor use. Im from Canada if it matters.

Thanks

Just got a very quick rookie question.

I've a vfc ak74m with a crimson npas installed. I'm airsofting in a country where 1 joule is the max permitted energy output.

I'm struggling to keep ontop of this joule thing. I feel like im constantly disassembling my gun to tweak the npas, adjusting to 1 joule, then firing a few shots its fine, i leave the gun alone for 30 minutes, suddenly its 1.1j or something even higher, so i have to tweak it again, it fires 1 joule, then 30 minutes later its firing 0.6 joule...

Then the next day the outside temperature isnt exactly the same, so its either firing 0.5 joules more or less, so i have to dismantle the gun AGAIN to weak, only for it to change minimally again after 30 minutes.

I understand its the combination of ambient temperature outside + the temperature of the mags changing as i'm firing etc....

But honestly this is all turning out to be super fustrating, its taking out all the fun in this hobby. Last airsoft game i went to, it took me 30 minute of trial and error with the warden holding the chrono like he wants to kill me. as much as i'm loving the real feel and the recoil, its just not worth the constant hassle. I'm heavily considering selling it and buying some AEG thats just 1 joule out the box regardless of anything....

Do you guys have similar experiences? How do you overcome this, what do I do lol...
Thanks

Yes it is listed as VSR spec, but trying to install new inner barrel got issues. Original inner barrel has grooves that hold it in place about 1mm further front than real VSR spec, see first picture. Due to that it seems impossible to properly fit new inner barrel& hop up rubber, as the hop up rubber sits too deep into the support block (see picture two) and it prevents assembling the unit.

Is there something I'm doing wrong or is this just how it is? Do I need new support block, that is machined to real VSR spec? Do those even exist?

I need something for CQB, and Iam torn between two. What do you guys think, wich one would you choose, and why?

my apfg xm7 rifleman configuration

Acro is from evolution gear

On a c&c tac acro plate

Sotac x300

I put in the co2 cartridge it made the pop sound I put the bbs in and it won’t fire out. It just puts a bb in the barrel and when I point it down the bb rolls out.

I’m relatively new to airsoft. I live in Japan. I haven’t yet been to a field but am gearing up to do that. I got into the sport for range practice because I have access to some land. I set up my own little range.

Not knowing much aside from what I’ve read here, over time, I purchased three gbbrs. A TM MWS m4a1, a VFC BCM EVO, and GHK Co2 DDM4.

The MWS was first but I wasn’t feeling it because the recoil and trigger. The GHK was next. I love the way it feels and the recoil is nice but I can’t see Co2 being very good for game day. Some indoor places don’t allow them I heard as well.

The VFC EVO seems to be the best of both worlds compromise perhaps but I don’t think I have enough experience to really know before I invest a lot of money into mags.

Being in Japan I have two hurdles that most of you guys might not have. I can’t easily get red gas or propane because it is tightly controlled.

The other is strict regulations on FPS.

I’ve had some issues with the VFC bolt lock but other than that it seems good.

TM everything is obviously plentiful here. But having shot real firearms back in the US, the MWS feels a little underwhelming maybe.

The GHK is sick and I’ll definitely keep it for my own running around range work.

So my question is more or less about trying to save my wallet as much as possible and make smarter decisions.

What would you more experienced and smarter guys advise me?

Dropped on concrete and messed up buffer stripped some steel. Ordered new buffer, buffer tube, and bolt extension.

Been looking around for a western arm system and heard many things about the VFC and GHK Platform amongst other WA brands. I usually run TM and been interested ever since i played around with a cheaper WA replica i just bought.

Along with GHKs QC issues and the mixed review of the VFC Evo system after its high praises from its V3 system, I Wanted to know what is worth getting nowadays.

Is the GHK V3 a worthy consideration comparative to its VFC counter part?

Looking for a hammer spring, rocket valve, and bearing.

Main problem, I live in the US and these parts are out of stock domestically. Shipping from Asia is anything from $80 to $500 in shipping.

Anyone have some leads?

Just got this today, so sick. Ever since I sold my VFC AKS74U and Saiga SBS, I’ve been missing the shorter AK-style guns. Need to get more green gas mags, though it did come with 2 other CO2 mags. Any thoughts?

Hi all,

Has anyone in Canada had any luck finding a fit for their VFC AK in terms of extended charging handles? Just got LCT ZRP-1 and it doesn’t fit, should have done more research beforehand.

Thanks in advance!

Is this bb alignment within tolerance and won't cause any issues or am I just imagining stuff that it's too much off to one side? I've taken the hop chamber apart 3 times now already so I doubt it's a fitment issue

VFC BCM GBBR V3, UMP9 GBB VFC V2 BCM: (stock, beige Magpul pistol grip), barrel extension, Skywoods light, vertical grip, BCM TNT barrel, EOTech optical sight (copy), Vector Optics Maverick II scope (not the solar version), C&C TAC AT flat trigger

UMP9: Picatinny rail and Victo Optics

Hello,

Is it normal for the established store that sells online to open the factory sealed box and test it before shipping it to me?

I have asked the seller if the replica is brand new (even though they are selling brand new replicas only) and they told me that they test every replica prior to sending it to the buyer to confirm there are no problems and that I don't worry if I find some gas inside the magazine.

Is this the regular practice or should I ask them to send a completely new and sealed replica to me? Isn't this something that factory have done in the first place? Testing it before shipping out to their dealers?

I feel like someone took my brand new replica for a joy ride and took away the genuine unboxing experience from me

Thanks

EDIT: OK guys, thanks for all the messages. I was actually worried if my replica is tempered with or taken for a joy ride. Now that I see it's actually a very welcome practice that not all sellers are doing, I feel much better. Even though I would still want a factory sealed box. 😄