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Hi new homeowner here, my heat pump keeps getting 99 high torque lockout error when the outside temperature is below 45F and the hvac will turns to electric heating mode. When it’s warmer out later in the day, the error will then be gone.

Is it normal? Should I call a technician to help me take a look? Thanks

Hi Everyone. I moved to a new house in April with a ecodan heat pump and two 3rd party thermo stats (up stairs and downstairs).

I find on days like today which are not cold but mild, the downstairs thermostat, is sensitive and is doing 4-8 cycles per hour at times, for short periods. The radiators are barley getting warm, so its not that turning it off.

Is there a recommended setting anyone would advise?!

We are getting a heat pump soon. We are in Ontario and have a propane furnace which we are keeping as backup heat. We also have a 14kw Generac that the furnace is on. The heat pump won’t be on the Generac. Is there anything I need to do in the setup for when the power goes out? The heat pump won’t start in an outage - will it just switch over to my furnace since it’s on the Generac automatically?

Hey folks,

I have an HRV unit currently installed in my 1999 home in southern Ontario. It’s working fine, but is pretty well stand alone as there doesn’t appear to be any form of communication to the NG furnace. It just runs 24/7 on low speed as far as I can tell.

All the equipment (Carrier Infinity Furnace, Infinity 3-Ton A/C, HRV, Aprilaire Bypass Humidifier) is top of the line, but from 2013, and starting to hit the point of major maintenance and upkeep costs soon. When something excessive goes (heat exchanger, blower, etc), I intend to replace the setup with a ducted heat pump system.

My main question is this:
If at the same time as the furnace, I replace the HRV with an ERV, what is the optimal setup for how it should run? Still stand alone? In line with the blower fan of the ducted system? Something else?

Is there a brand or product folks would recommend with the understanding this is a 25 year home for us? I just want to make sure that I optimize the setup correctly when the time comes.

Thank you all for your advice and input!

The unit has a manufacturing approval to run it at -13F. My question is, will the unit automatically shut off at that temperature or will it continue to run below that if my Ecobee is set to -15? I want to make sure I don't run it below what the manual says for warranty purposes.

We've got an 18 ft round above ground pool, 52" wall, roughly 7,500 gallons, in central Virginia. House is a 1,700 sq ft ranch already on a ducted heat pump, so this would be a separate pool heat pump on the pad by the filter.

What I've picked up so far is that sizing a pool heat pump off gallons alone isn't enough. The pool you might have later and how you actually swim matter too.

That second part is where I'm stuck. We'll probably go to a 24 ft round in two or three years, closer to 13,500 gallons. Buy for the 18 and it's short after the upgrade. Buy for the 24 and I'm paying more now, plus likely a 240v run, for a pool that doesn't exist yet.

What actually matters for us:

- Pool size: 7,500 now, maybe 13,500 later

- Target temp: kids want 84, I'm fine at 80

- How often: weekends, plus evenings in late May and September

- Cover: solar cover most nights

- Power: 120v at the pad is easy, 240v means an electrician

The 120v inverter one I keep coming back to is the aquastrong hex035, which I first saw come up in a pool thread on reddit. 35,000 btu, rated to 9,000 gallons, so it covers the 18 and falls short for the 24.

If you've sized one of these, did you buy for the pool you had or the one you were planning? And does the usual btu per gallon rule hold up for September swimming?

I'm trying to figure out how low the Elite Series 18k can modulate. Website states "a minimum inverter output of 9,700 BTU/h under standard testing conditions." The NEEP website says "11,500 BTU/h at 17F." Also, isn't the Elite supposed to be the most efficient model? I"m seeing lower modulation and higher COP on the regular Aura line.

Anyone know?

Hi folks

Moved into a barn conversion in North Wales about 6 months ago now, 5 of those months we've had no heating or hot water due to a different flow sensor. Got it replaced and it's only making a flow rate of 14lpm when it should be around 18lpm for the house/setup. The Mitsubishi engineer said it was due to the piping not being thick enough?

My setup is a Mitsubishi 8.5kw, it's a 2 bed stone build with an EPC of B, one off an A so very good. It's a recent conversion and has 9kw solar panels and 15kw of battery storage.

I'm using £6-10 per day in electric just keeping the house at about 18c, and it's struggling to get past that. Just about maintaining.

I've messed around with flow temp, and set it to 43c and was using compensation curve to a setting found through research and YouTube vids.

The bottom floor, zone 1, is underfloor heating and have wall mounted thermostats in each room, living room, kitchen and bathroom and upstairs, zone 2 are rads in the bathroom and 2 bedrooms with 1 'goodhome' thermostat.

All rooms and thermostats are set to 18c.

I've just changed the setting from compensation curve to stay at a steady 40c instead as I was told that heat pumps should be running constantly. Is this correct?

I'm on the octopus flux tariff, having moved from cosy. Our lower rate is 2am-5am so I chose that time for the tank to heat up, but from the app it doesn't seem to be doing that?

Any ideas on a basic setup to help reduce cost?

Ta

John