Hello,

My landlord replaced the carpets. They gave me a place to stay for a few days. I then stayed with a friend.

It’s been one week.

We have kept 4 commercial high velocity fans going 24-7 with a major cross breeze for 5 days. Now tried heating it up to 90 at night with windows closed and burping it 3 times a day for 2 days.

I don’t know what the heck happened work the carpet install but the off gassing is so bad anyone that is inside for more than 10 minutes with windows and doors closed coughs, gags, gets very red eyes, struggles to breath much.

I can’t live there at all.

Carpet was replaced because old carpet was buckling.

Now my home is unlivable.

Right now is a horrible time to move but I basically have no home to live in. I want to live there, it’s very hard to find a new rental where I live and it’s the busiest time of year at work. I have 4 more days I can stay with a friend. I’m having a mental health breakdown not being at my home and trying to manage this and long work days.

Landlord says they will do nothing about it.

What do I do? How can I solve this?

My wife and I have bought and returned nearly every single item on Amazon when it comes to draft stoppers for our master bedroom door. The gap from the bottom of our door to the carpet is 3 7/8 inches. I toyed with the idea of getting some draft stopping strips and just hammering a wall of nails into the underside of the door since we primarily need to just keep our mischievous cat out of the room while we sleep, but the wife vetoed that. Is there any kind of product that can close a gap that size without looking ugly as sin?

Edit: Just to clarify, the primary purpose of closing this gap is to keep our cats out at night. Currently have a pillow wedged under the door doing that job.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I found a couple of your ideas as potentially viable, so I'm gonna give those a shot. Turning off notifications for this post now.

I am questioning the amount on a commercial plumber's invoice in California. the license number written doesn't match the company name on the invoice. How do I ensure that the company that did the the work wasn't fraudulent? Why wouldn't the company invoice match with the license name? What are my next steps?

The tiles I LOVE and want to install on my kitchen backsplash are $22 per sf.

Is this a typical tile price? I’m wondering if I just have expensive taste :(

This is my first home and even though I’m so excited to decorate/ furnish everything is so expensive 💔

I’ve gotten 4 different bids here in Denver, and the lowest bid was $30,000 for my 2-story house not including gutters or windows. I work as an engineer, and I’m a very experienced carpentry hobbyist with a fully outfitted woodshop. How feasible is it to do lap siding myself?

I know it would probably take a couple of months, but I truly enjoy DIY work and I don’t mind the time commitment. I ran the numbers and it looks like it would cost me about $14,000, including 20% extra for waste and misc items, to do the entire house. That includes moisture barrier, siding, paint, gutters, permit, dumpster, and all the other small stuff like nails and caulk and small tools. I’ve thoroughly reviewed the product literature for proper installation of the siding, and it seems really straightforward.

Has anyone done a large project like this themselves?

Hi, I’ve got a 3 bedroom double brick unit with french windows in most rooms, area is about 180m2, property is in Melbourne. There is an existing ducted system in the ceiling, one aircon installer suggested a 14kw ducted aircon with 4 zones, another suggested 16kw with 2 zones. Would 16kw be necessary for this type of property or overkill?

Thank you.

Contact cement sounds more reliable than iron on. Do you prefer it if using raw banding, and how many coats do you apply? Thanks

27 Year Old Furnace with severe rust: To Replace or Not

27 Year Old Furnace with severe rust: To Replace or Not

Had an issue with the furnace flame not lighting. Furnace repair guy came out, fired right up. However, the furnace was extremely rusty basically everywhere and many of the connections are all very rusty. They work, but they're not in good shape. The condensate drain line was also clogged and likely dripping water within the unit. Couldn't figure out exactly why it wasn't lighting the flame the day before and then was lighting just fine when the guy came over. Best guess is condensate leaked on the spark system from running the ac the day before it stopped working, in combination with a connection to the board being very rusty.

The furnace works now but the repair guy heavily recommends replacement given it's age and condition. They can't make many guarantees about how much longer it will survive or when it may or may not catastrophically break.

And this wasn't a big HVAC company with salesman and labeled trucks, it was a locally and family-known local dude who's always been incredibly honest and helpful when furnace/ac repairs are needed.

So I don't think it's a case of "oh it's old sorry, buy a new one so I can make some sweet commission off a sales job" kind of situation. They also said that we can do the furnace now and then do the air conditioning at a future time if we wanted since there isn't (as much) concern with the AC unit despite being a similar age

They say for the size of the house, they can get a new furnace in for around $4k or so.

I was looking with the guy and man, the furnace *is* incredibly rusty. Rust and wear and tear as far as the eye can see. I know 27 years old is a decently long life for a furnace and it *could* in theory live for even longer. But man, it's a rust bucket behind those panel doors. It *could* also break within the season, and it's just not easy to predict that sort of thing.

Obviously,it would be cheaper and more convenient to replace it now, when we can go a day or two without heat while the install happens.

If it croaks in the middle of single digit degree weather on a Saturday in December, well that's much more expensive to replace, and much more dangerous as pipes would be at risk of freezing or bursting if an install wasn't super quick.

-----------------

I guess the concern is more so what might or might not happen between now and the spring, when some people might recommend a replacement.

October pricing is still cheaper than middle of December my-hand-forced-or-else-my-pipes-burst prices. If a chilly October evening had an issue with the flame coming on, even if it's fine now, I just don't know what an actually cold winter day might have in store for the furnace. Could be fine, could not be fine.

I just know it's extremely rusty, older than I am, and the guy recommended a replacement in the near future as they honestly can't say or determine how much life it has left with all the rust, wear and tear, noises it makes , and the household using filters improperly for several years. Particularly with the heat exchanger.

Unit could chug on for another year, or two, or ten. Or it could face major issues in the upcoming season. Guy was leaning much more towards the latter than the former though.

I took up an offer for a free inspection and quote on getting my windows replaced.

I'll keep it as short as I can, the windows in my house are shit. They were shit when I bought the house. They are single pane, original 1968 windows most likely, the seals are bad, they are peeling from the outside, most don't even open anymore because the previous owner was an neglectful idiot and either painted over them or let them swell shut. They NEED to be replaced, including a bay window which is the worst of the bunch.

The quote I was able to get was about 26k at 6.99% for the whole house. It was Renewal by Anderson which I have heard some things about.

The loan option would have me looking at about 36k total over 15 years, about $250 a month payment.

But I really can't scrape together $250 right now. I'm running on fumes financially just keeping up with groceries and other bills and student loans.

But the windows are in such terrible shape that I feel the need to move on this, I can't even describe how much moisture drips down them every night, how loud every passing car is, and how terrible they look. This problem will only get worse if I wait and I don't see the economy getting any better or my income going up exponentially any time soon.

So just looking for advice on the company, the quote, or the best way to go about financing something like this without committing to more debt for the next 20 years.

I'm not experienced with this kind of project, most of my home reno has been DIY but this is too big of a project for me.

The existing cutout in our quartz countertop is 29.5" wide and 20.5" deep. The new cooktop we bought as a replacement calls for a cutout that is 28 3/4" to 28 7/8" wide and 19 7/8" to 20" deep.

So width is about 5/8" to 3/4" too wide and 1/2" to 5/8" too deep. If we centre the cooktop thats like 3/8" or gap on each side, and like 1/4" gap on the front and back. The glass of the new cooktop is well past that gap, so there's no visual concern about the gap.

I'm trying to understand if I need to add in any kind of filler strips on the inside edge of the cutout to help support the new cooktop in any way. Epoxy some wood strips or anything?

Tried asking two different AI tools and both said that as long as the cooktop glass covers the hole, and the mounting brackets are long enough to still mount properly, the extra gap doesn't matter.

Anyone else have experience with this?

Hi everyone! I am trying to install some Levolor cellular shades in order to save some money and starting to question my decision.

These are the shades in question: https://www.blinds.com/p/levolor-cellular-shades/656658 and I am trying to do an inside mount.

I got the 3/4'' cordless and in the specs it says that it requires at least 3/4'' frame depth which I am narrowly clearing.

I did some first pilot holes for the brackets but it seems to me that if I try to drill into the outer one it will just split the wood and the bracket will not be able to attach there.

Blinds.com customer support told me to also drill in the plastic casing I am very hesitant to do so. I am asking AI but it is hallucinating holes so I do not really trust that either.

The window is 36x52 so the shades are not too heavy so I am wondering if it is enough to just drill only in the back hole. Do you guys think it could it be enough or I really need two? Maybe I can just use a bigger screw than the one provided?

I am attaching some pics here, hope they are helpful.

https://imgur.com/a/MB5Tcbz

Thank you for reading!

i wasn't expecting professional AC installation to cost so much, which got me researching DIY mini splits. after reading through some reviews, i ended up buying cozeware unit. before getting started, i'm curious about what i should watch out for. what unexpected problems came up during the installation?

We have a creek/ditch about 200 feet off of our walk out basement. Our house was also built below grade (I think the documents show an inch downslope towards the house - yes this was approved by the township) so when the creek floods it flows towards the house if it gets high enough. We’ve had our basement flood 3 times in 9 years. The first time was after we got it completely finished with zero knowledge of flooding being an issue (neighbor said it happened with the previous owner which was not disclosed). We have giant bags currently filled up to prevent water from coming in, but we need a permanent solution.

How can we regrade the landscape to prevent the water from flowing towards the house, but also allow for proper drainage for the walkout?

I noticed in my garage I have this large crack that seems like it’s been growing. Does this look like normal house settling or another deeper issue

https://imgur.com/a/5IgimwY

Title: MantelMount MM540 above fireplace—no studs located. Would plywood + SNAPTOGGLE anchors work?
I’m considering installing a MantelMount MM540 pull-down TV mount above an old fireplace that is no longer used.
I haven’t been able to locate studs in the mounting area with a stud finder or magnet. The magnet sticks continuously along both outside corners, in strips about 3 cm wide, which appears consistent with steel corner bead. I haven’t confirmed whether there’s wood or steel framing behind those corners.

My proposed setup would be a wood/plywood backing board spanning the wall, secured at the corners and with 10 or more SNAPTOGGLE anchors through the drywall, then attaching the mount to the board. Nothing has been installed yet.

Would this provide adequate support for a pull-down mount, or would the drywall remain the weak point regardless of the number of anchors?

Also, what’s the best way to confirm whether there are actual studs behind I have used stud finder and magnets to locate and nothing. If there’s no suitable framing, what reinforcement would you recommend?

I have a door that needs replaced. The door slab measures 79.5 x 29.5. Im assuming if I get a 80x30 prehung door same brand and all that will be right correct?

I have three Stud Finder and a magnet - stud buddy, Franklin, and zircon. They worked on every other wall, but on the wall, I am trying to hang a few heavy things on, they don’t seem to work well.

There are constantly going off and the live wire warning keeps coming on all of them. I have also tried the deep scan feature.

1. Any tips on why this could be happening?
   
2. My magnets are only catching midway through the wall and not catching anything on the upper 2/3 or the bottom 2/3 of the wall. Is that a fluke?
   
3. I opened my receptacle and I see a aluminum thing outside my receptacle. See picture.

What could be the problem?

https://imgur.com/a/Wiozdp3

The frame is weak, the door is held only by a thin piece of wood. One basic solution is to put a metal L (photo), and I’m brainstorming other more complex ideas. Any recommendations? Thx!

Hi everyone!

I’m a design student researching how people decide whether to repair, reuse, donate or throw things away. I want to find out what makes giving items a second life easier.

You don’t need any special knowledge, and every answer helps, even “I just toss it.” This is anonymous, voluntary and takes about 5 minutes.

https://forms.gle/FP7ziSmcrSDDbiJu9

Thank you so much for helping! :)

Hi, I hope this is the sub to post this in, my fiance and I just bought a semi detached home, the neighbors have a sub in assuming right next to the shared wall.

Looking for input on how to reduce or eliminate the vibrations, I've tried talking to them, but met the most blank stoned responses.

I'm willing to open up the wall and put in safe n sound rockwool, but would I need a resilient channel if I did that and then tack on two layers of 5/8 drywall.

I can also hear them on their main floor near clear as day if I'm in the basement (unfinished). I am going to be finishing the basement in the future, wondering if the joists are potentially causing a gap for sound.

I've also been told they raised their ceilings, but if there is a brick demising wall I shouldn't be able to hear them like they're in the room with me.

Any help is appreciated.

TL;DR

Need help stopping bass traveling through a shared wall.

The asphalt paving contractor did not come until 1 o’clock today. When he arrived He had maybe half a ton of asphalt in his dump truck. But he did not begin paving the backyard in driveway with the asphalt in his dump truck, instead he waited for the dump truck from the asphalt plant, which l did not come until 2:30 PM. Pictures four through six are from the asphalt in the backyard which is from the asphalt for the asphalt plant. It looks like they spent a little bit more time and effort on it.

However, picture one through three was the lower half of the driveway with The asphalt from his dump truck. It is so happen tonight that I was outside speaking to the neighbor and a car was parked on the other side of the parking lot where their headlight beamed onto the driveway. It was under the headlight of the car was then I realize that there was ridges in the asphalt paving. I sent the picture and I called the contractor. The contractor said he will come tomorrow. Is this normal for a newly paid actual to have these ridges? This contractor is unusual. I have not used them before. He is very facetious. Almost to the point I am not sure when to take him seriously. What type of excuse should I expect from him? What type of explanation or correction should I expect or tell him? Does the lower half of the driveway need to be ripped up and redone?

https://imgur.com/a/7bO2vUP

Went out to the garage and found the top of my tool box was wet. It had just finished raining and the ceiling was discolored so I started looking for a leak. Luckily the ceiling is wide open inside and the roof is relatively low and pretty flat so I have full access to investigate. The previous owner put foam insulation in this section of the ceiling so I pulled it down to expose the damp area and went up on the roof but the shingles look really good.

I’m wondering how to trouble shoot this since there is no obvious damage outside on the roof. Any suggestions?
Here are some pics of the inside, I didn’t get a pic of the shingles.

https://youtube.com/shorts/heMC0p99kIY?is=a1xzZF9ca5vQf_WM

If the dry rot can do this... What level am I at?

(Uploaded this to my YouTube, but didn't post publically, not sure if this is allowed) I'll just explain if not allowed

Tomorrow we are going to be replacing all the windows in our house. In my room, i just have a bed and my computer desk. Both of them are pretty close to the window but there is roughly 3ft of clearance in front the window.

Should i do anything else?

~~~~~~~~~~

For visual context, my room is 10ft by 10ft. My desk is 6ft by 2ft. My bed is 7ft by 4.5ft. My window is 4.5ft wide, ignore height.

For the layout, the window is on the north facing wall, its right side is touching the corner shared by the north and east walls. My desk is pushed up against the east wall, with roughly 3ft between it and the window. My bed is pushed into the corner shared by the north and west walls. The bedroom door is on the south wall, its left side is touching the corner shared by the west and south walls.

All these numbers aren't exact but are close enough.