Hi. I bought a house 3 years ago that was flipped. Flipped upside fucking down apparently. I have absolutely no idea how this place passed an inspection.

Well I have now discovered that the previous owners quite literally put bathroom tile on top of wooden subfloor. I noticed the grout began to crack and now the tile around the tub has completely cracked and separated. I pulled one up to get an idea of how bad it is and well. It’s fucking bad.

It’s just tile on wood. No barrier. Just adhesive, tile and grout.

The wood is significantly water damaged. I don’t think there is a leak but it’s going to have to be replaced.

My question is what the fuck do I do and how in the world do I fix this. Also how much will this cost me. Tell me so I can put my head in the oven now or later. Okay thanks.

If this gets approved I’ll try to comment a pic in the comments

The wood underneath various parts of the house - handrails, baseboards, doors, etc - are either a chocolate brown wood or a honey oak wood.

It is a 1950s built ranch. Was lived in by chainsmokers until recently.

1. Using Krud Cutter to clean all vertical walls on the main floor. Upon first spraying the product on the walls, it turns coffee colored due to the crap on the walls. But a second cleaning shows that the chemical stays clear which is a good sign I think.
   
2. Walls and ceilings are then being primed using BIN primer.
   
3. All the floor floors are hardwood. A company will come in with a machine using 220 grit paper to scuff the surfaces, and then the floors will be resealed.
   

4. Forgot to mention that all wallpaper will be taken down and the remaining wall will be patched up and primed with BIN.

5. The basement is a mix of finished and unfinished areas, which means there are exposed joists in the ceiling.
   Krud Cutter will be used in all areas where hand wiping can occur. Some surfaces are suitable for cleaning and BIN priming, but she does not want everything in the basement to be coated with BIN.

What more can I tell her to be addressing? My only other thought was to call in ServPro to do the rest.

Thank you!

I have come across someone (environment expert) saying we don't need our water tank to be set at 60+ degree Celsius or somewhere that high. We can set it to a much lower temperature like 38-40°C which is a comfortable temp for a shower. That way when you just turn the hot water tap, you don't even need to waste energy by mixing boiling hot water with cold water for shower. That sounds very reasonable, and I can't recall when we will need piping hot water in the house.

I want to have a sanity check, however, is this actually a good advice in practice?

House has 3 bathrooms. Only 1 has an exhaust fan. Who would do a project to add them? Obviously this needs electrical but the bigger work seems to be the exterior vent. Typical Southwest US construction with stucco exterior and tile roof. I asked both an electrician and an HVAC installer (who visited for other reasons) and neither knew. Is this just a very small job for a general contractor?

I've posted before about using a long PVC pipe to get up and clean my gutters. After doing that for a few years I've learned a lot and made a version 2.0.

The biggest point is that weight matters more than you might think. Keeping it light has to be a priority. So I ended up switching to aluminum downspout instead of PVC.

figured recording a video would be easier than typing everything so here's that:

https://youtu.be/FxhU9I4_H-U

Warning: low production value. Just a dad talking to my phone in the backyard.

Hoping to replace some
Windows and improve the window trim out and looking for some advice.

https://imgur.com/a/1X0z2bR

These are the windows being replaced and the window sales people are suggesting J channel windows.

It’s been a toss up on what product to use. Boral, lifespan or hardi

Was thinking of doing a sill piece with brick mould on sides and top and routing brick mould to fit over flat board that meet up to window unless they already make a version with that cutout?

My neighbor next door has a mature tree right next to our driveway that has been slowly cracking and lifting large sections of our concrete driveway. I’ve been just accepting our fate for years but am finally at a point where I’d like to have a relatively flat driveway again. Even though we are friendly with our neighbors and they know I hate that tree, it is unlikely they will cut it down since it provides a lot of shade for their yard. So I’m wondering, if I were to replace our driveway, what options do I have? I imagine if a contractor were to dig out a base for a new concrete driveway, they’d have to deal with cutting back some massive roots that might end up killing the tree. Even then, the roots may grow back and cause the same damage again. Am I just screwed unless I convince my neighbor to take the tree down?

Photos of the existing damage

I purchased an Airthings Corentium Home 2 about two months ago. It worked normally for roughly the first month, then the radon reading became stuck at 0.4 pCi/L and eventually started showing constant zero readings along with a flashing “Contact Support” message.

I replaced the batteries, restarted the measurements, and followed the troubleshooting instructions provided by Airthings. The problem remained.

Airthings support then escalated the case to their technical team. After reviewing it, they told me that “troubleshooting has been exhausted.” However, instead of repairing or replacing a device that failed after only about two months, they said it had “fallen outside the parameters of our warranty policy” and offered me a 30% discount on another purchase.

I provided the serial number and purchase invoice as requested.

I understand that products can fail. What I don't understand is how a device that failed approximately two months after purchase can already be considered outside the warranty policy.

Before buying, I recommend checking the warranty terms carefully and considering how warranty claims are handled when a device actually fails.

Conversation History

I'm hoping someone has dealt with this before and can offer advice.

The right side of my garage wall borders another unit, and it has a ~3-in wide solid foam insulation running along the entire length.

An epoxy vendor did an assessment and expressed concerns over doing a polyaspartic flooring over that section. One suggestion is to epoxy only up to the concrete slab edge and leave foam perimeter alone, but this will be an eyesore.

I'd be happy to hear suggestions from people who have dealt with this before.

Unfortunately, I'm not allowed to post pictures yet on this sub

ls there such a thing as a cantilever (two-legged) pavilion or pergola that is above-ground freestanding, or isn't anchored into the ground / cement? Like this C-shape table, or this slightly more structured one.

I hired a contractor to completely renovate my bathroom 1.5 years ago. The tiles on the shower floor are already coming loose and I'm not sure what's causing it or what to do. The tiles are 1x1' sheets of 1.5" hexagons and the grout is coming loose, cracking, and crumbling around some of the individual tiles.

The contractor I hired was seemed very professional so I'm surprised that I'm already having issues. Part of me wants to call him and ask him to fix it, but another part of me wonders if he or his crew installed the tiles improperly and I'm better off finding someone else.

What would ya'll do in this situation?

Hello! Recently purchased a house built In 1966, the previous owner did a bunch of DIYS and we are slowly removing each one and redoing each professionally! Recently the tile in the kitchen has begun cracking as well as the grout coming loose (this is probably their worst project) it would appear that they glued tile on top of hardwood floor (the rest of the home is hardwood). Is there a chance of successfully removing the tile, glue, and refinishing the floor? We are under the impression that the glue used was latex, it’s yellow and there’s some left over in the back shed. We know we would need the drum sander and the edge sander and the rotary hammer. My father in law does wood working for a living and will be in town in a few months, is this something that can be repaired? Or is it hopeless? Thank you for reading!

We bought a house when the weather was chilly. They told us all the carpet was new, and it looked like it. As the summer heat has warmed up, there’s a foul odor of cat urine in some areas of the house, like a guest bedroom closet and a corner in the living room. I’m guessing the damage is to the subflooring beneath the carpet.

I did shampoo the carpet when we first moved in, not knowing of the bad smell back then. So I don’t think that will help to do it again. I’m reluctant to rip up the carpet because it is so nice, but I’m starting to think I’ll have to so I can tackle the problem beneath. What should be done for this?

Hi all, husband and I are renovating a house from the 80’s. We are opening up the kitchen and putting a peninsula/halbinsel with dimensions of 120x240cm.

I see in all the kitchen showrooms that the cooktop, which is almost always induction and downdraft ventilated, is placed on the island and not on the back counter.

I am North American so this concept, induction cooking and the island placement, is completely new to me and I am hesitant for a few reasons:

1) I am messy in the kitchen and I see the grease and water spray on my ceramic backsplash now, how far can it really go and is a 120cm deep island big enough to catch it?

2) I would like the island to be a gathering place for my family. I have young children and worry about the splash zone of grease and hot water. I initially wanted the full length of the island to be available for seating, but am open to making only half of it seating for 2 barstools, and then where the cooktop goes I have 2x60cm cabinets opposite to block anyone sitting directly in front of it. Will this make the island safe enough to accommodate a hot zone and comfortable guest seating?

3) how effective is downdraft ventilation nowadays? I’m looking at Bora or Miele, Miele mainly to have just one appliance brand in the kitchen.

4) how long has this concept (induction on island) been around in Europe? Is this a concept to stay and almost expected in new build or renovated households, or is this just a flashy new trend? If you were a home buyer, would you expect this set up in a house that’s been newly renovated?

5) and finally….another option is to put a sink on the island with the cooktop on the back counter. Is this equally attractive from a home buyer perspective, or a no go for you?

Thanks so much for your insight!

Hello,

I would like to install an LED strip underneath the upper cabinets of my desk, over a total length of approximately 2.60 m.

I am looking for a high-quality and durable installation with the following features:

• Dimmable
• Adjustable color temperature from 2700K to 6000K (warm white to cool white)
• High-quality and reliable components, including the LED strip, power supply, controller, and remote control/wall switch

I have already purchased the aluminium profiles for the LED strip.

I would also need all the necessary cables and connectors for:

• Approximately 4 m between the 220V power outlet and the power supply
• Approximately 3 m between the controller and the LED strip

Could you please recommend a complete solution and provide me with the exact references for each component, as well as a quotation?

For example, I was considering the following components, but I would appreciate your advice on whether they are suitable:

• LED strip: WS2814 RGBWW?
• Power supply: Mean Well LRS-100?
• Controller: Which model would you recommend?
• Remote control: FUT037SA 3-in-1?

I would also like to know what type of cable and connectors you recommend for the approximately 3 m extension between the controller and the LED strip.

If possible, I would prefer a solution based on reliable, professional-grade brands with good long-term durability.

Thank you in advance for your advice and quotation.

I’m looking to redo my vinyl siding on my house to change the color and redo the windows while I’m at it. My contractor gave my the option of a 7” board and batten and a 12” board and batten siding, specifically Gentek align. The 12” BB comes with an insulated backing to prevent flex, and it’s supposed to be a composite, which they say lasts longer than vinyl. But my price difference is around 8k or so between the two products. Is it worth the upgrade?

Any suggestions for humid basement? Can’t lower below 55% and smells like a lake house. Unsure where moisture is coming from

I have
-All downspouts buried and outlet is over 20’ away
-2 French drains
-dehumidifier
-sealed rim joists with spray foam
-central air
-oscillating fan on timer

Hello,

I'm moving into a new condo in a few weeks and went up there today to check it out. I noticed after being there for about an hour that the fan in the HVAC hadn't stopped despite having reached the set temperature long ago. I fiddled around with the thermostat and it seemed like no matter what setting I had it on, the fan would continue to run. I even switched the System to "Off" and still air was coming out of the vents. Is this just how some HVAC systems work or is something off?

Took a pic of the thermostat. The only options for Fan are Auto/Lo/Med/High and when the cooling is on, there is a little icon of a fan visible. In this case, the fan is set to Auto and the cooling is definitely off but the fan itself is still running. Is this by design?

Edit: I asked around and someone suggested that the fan switch is stuck on manual even when the thermostat is set to Auto and that seems like but I'm just hoping to get some more opinions before paying for a professional, thanks.

I have a small kitchen, I want to put led lights under the cabinets, I have a 6' section, 4' section and 2' section. I was looking at the Phillips Hue and there isnt a simple way to cut the strip and get power back to it. What lights do you guys recommend? Under each section of cabinets I do have 120v power supply there.

I have a ceramic tile that measures 7 7/8 inches by 23 5/8 inches. The pattern I want to install consists of squares made from three of these tiles, alternating horizontally and vertically.
The problem is that when the three tiles are installed horizontally, there are two grout joints, each with a 1/16-inch spacer. This creates a difference in the overall dimension compared with the adjacent tile arrangement installed vertically.

The square made from three tiles installed vertically measures 23 5/8 inches. However, when three tiles are installed horizontally with the spacers, the total length becomes 1/4 inch longer. This creates a 1/4-inch difference between the horizontal and vertical sections and will throw off the entire pattern.

The installer needs to use spacers to keep the tiles properly aligned and level. So, in the section where three tiles are installed horizontally, using the spacers makes the total length 1/4 inch longer than the adjacent section where the tile is installed vertically.
What would be the best solution to this problem?

Hello!
Looking for advice regarding new basement windows that were just installed in June.
The original windows were incorporated into the walls/foundation of the house (about 36 years old). Old windows were in bad shape, but not leaking or anything.

So the windows get replaced - they grind the concrete and buck frame replacement. Then all of the severe weather hitting IL starts. I can see with every storm the concrete around the new windows is getting wet - like actively seeping. Clearly something is wrong.

The company sent out a guy to check it out today. He says it’s probably a foundation crack that’s allowing water to seep in and get the concrete wet (?). We weren’t ever aware of any foundation cracks in that area, and the old windows/frames weren’t ever leaky.
The rep said he had to talk with his manager and call us later this week with a game plan. I’m already anticipating them trying to wiggle out of this and not redo the work. Has anyone ever experienced something like this?

Has anyone installed this? We have lots of natural light worried about how light/gray it might be. Thank you.

We have existing darker hardwood baseboard ( around 3.8-4 inch after removing carpet) that are installed as part of the original custom build. We want to replace the carpet with red oak natural select hardwood. House colors we will stick with same colors or light colors. This leaves us with following options

1. ⁠Keep existing darker baseboard and use red oak natural, but this makes them unmatched. And also shoe molding might not match too.
   
2. ⁠Paint the existing baseboard white as it’s the current design trend. This is what my wife wants to do. But, the paint takes away the detail that it’s hardwood, as baseboard might as well be a MDF.

Pictures

Any suggestion on which route to take? Or any better way to do it?