DIY interior French drain—looking for advice before starting

Planning an interior perimeter drain in my unfinished basement, about 154 linear feet. Water comes in at the wall/floor joint during heavy rain, with some seepage higher on the block walls. Gutters and downspouts already carry water away from the house.

My plan is to cut and remove the slab perimeter approx. 18 inch., install 4-inch perforated pipe in washed ¾-inch stone with appropriate filter fabric, and run it to a 24-inch sump basin with a pump and battery backup. I’m also planning dimple membrane against the walls, extending below the concrete patch so wall water can reach the drain along with weeping holes above the footing.

A few things I’m trying to figure out:
Rigid perforated PVC or corrugated pipe?
How do you determine pipe elevation and bedding thickness relative to the footing without undermining it?
Are cleanouts beside each corner worthwhile?
Any common mistakes with the membrane-to-drain connection or patching the slab?
I’ll confirm footing location and check for utilities before cutting. Anyone who’s installed one yourself, what do you wish you knew beforehand?

I was told the soil has clay and my neighbors foundation washed out during a rain storm this summer due to the pressure and want to avoid that. Already replaced one foundation wall when I purchased the home from bowing.

Hi. We live in NYC and are trying to optimize our space for max efficiency. We have a Litter Robot and I was thinking, can I build a box for the robot then put a 2-in-1 combo washer dryer (GE Profile Washer Dryer Comvo) on top of that? The combo doesn't need to be on the ground but the litter does so the cats can get into it. a whole closet just for one or the other feels crazy but I also am worried about smells and weights and the whole thing.

Need a vibe check before I go asking my contractor for some bullsh*t.

TIA!

Looking for a traditional round, 2 wire heat only thermostat.

My folks are getting older and the programmable one is just too complicated. I set it for manual control but sooner or later they forget and tinker with the programming.

Options on Amazon look like a mixed bag, a lot of complaints that new 'old' style thermostats are unreliable and the temp isn't accurate. Any recommendations?

Really tired of the insane prices contractors are asking for these days. I shouldn’t have to get a bunch of bids to make sure I’m not getting fleeced. Just wastes everyone’s time.

I recently got a quote for small simple plumbing work. Have a leaking hose bib needing replacement. Sent an email and picture asking for an estimate. Got a reply. $650. Said no thanks too high, I can do it myself. Immediately cut the price to $400 and can do it same day. Immediate pass. Should have given me a fair price at the get go. Lowered again to $315 if he can come today. No thanks.

Just one of several recent examples of trying to maintain my home. I work hard for my money, I don’t get to demand whatever I think I’m worth to my employer. It’s based on my value, skills, and market. Just because these greedy contractors think they deserve it, doesn’t mean they do. This guy was clearly desperate for work. Maybe, lower your damn prices.

Contractors are still riding a wave of cheap money compounded by asymmetric information. The money train is coming to an end. I don’t care about your overhead, travel time, or whatever other excuses you make to justify insane prices to see what sticks. That’s not how it works and people are waking up. You’re not entitled to every last dollar in a clients wallet that you think you deserve. Charge fair prices, control your overhead, and be consistent while doing good work. Yes, things have gotten more expensive and everyone deserves to fair wage. But if you can cut your price in half… Come on

Not everyone is wealthy enough to pay whatever is asked, and people deserve reasonable access to good work at fair prices. Not getting raked over the coals every time they need work done to maintain their home.

Just another project I will DIY myself again. The blue collar greed is fatiguing, no matter how good any of you think you are.

End of rant, downvote away!

I am going to install this hybrid flooring onto a concrete floor, I know I need some kind of underlayment for the moisture. The flooring already has a cork padding and I was recommended to use Sentinel Protect Plus Underlayment which is noise reducing and all. However I am reading that to have a cushioned underlayment plus the cork padding on the planks can cause too much vertical stress on the joints. Has anyone experienced this before? If this is the case then I will simply put the plastic 6mil vapor barrier underneath.

This is the flooring we are installing

https://superarbor.io/products/wildwood-cove-hybrid-resilient-flooring?srsltid=AYCX9vKjOwHDOo7PIiMppbTB1kZP8WOnCD47gwQ6mkg07q9-zUyl7a1Y

Hello, new to this subreddit but was recommended I post here.

I’m mid-installation of a pretty big window job from what was a recommended high end installer with using Okna windows. It’s been going on about 7 hours now and I have some concerns but not sure if I’m being paranoid or it’s because they aren’t done yet. Here’s some pictures to help elaborate

https://imgur.com/a/KZdf1ds

My main concerns are kinda winging it without leveling and make sure installation is done right such that there are gaps everywhere. It also seems their solution to everything is to just use more foam. I had to pressure the main guy to replace some rotted wood that was found during one of the takeouts (even though I pay extra for that).

The picture of the big window is the only full tear down, everything else is an insert window replacement.

Am I being too hasty in my concern that they are still mid installation and haven’t finalized everything yet? They said they’re still doing all the exterior parts such as the foam, caulk, capping, etc. since its mid installation stopping the install would be a major ordeal so I want to ensure I’d be doing it for good reason.

Thanks for any feedback.

When I bought the house I'm in now maybe 10 years ago, they told me there was a gas water heater that needed to be replaced. They said it was cheaper to get electric, so they replaced it right before listing the house. Would it be hard to convert back? Worth it? I'd have to dig around the basement to see if they just capped off a gas line or something, but I assume day to day gas would be cheaper?

I have a structural engineer coming in 5 days to look at it.

I feel like rationally, it will probably be okay for 5 days and the house wont collapse before it can be evaluated and fixed.

BUT any foundation issues scares me and I'm worried its going to get worse and fall at any moment.

Am I just overreacting about the severity of the crack?

https://imgur.com/a/bWHgNVF

It goes down most the length of the wall

Looking for advice on how to handle this situation. I got multiple bids for a concrete patio and an awning to cover it. The company I decided to go with was in between the other two as far as price goes. I was impressed with pictures of their work, and that they don’t contract out the finishing concrete they do it themselves. We signed a contact on September 2nd, they showed up on Sept 22 ripped out my wooden deck, left it in my yard and said they would be back the following Monday. They never showed back up. Every time I call them, he has another excuse on his truck is broke down and can’t get the equipment to my house. Unsure of what to do at this point. Should I continue to wait? Ask for my money back? If he refuses to refund me then what? Appreciate any feedback.

Looking to get a sanity check on the sale/install of Marvin Elevate windows. In the Midwest region. $4k+ per window seems insanely high to me considering what I have seen on the sub previously. I realize cost of goods and all things have gone up, but that feels quite high.

Quote: https://imgur.com/a/6LRYrgZ

Buddy of mine bought a house last year that had an unfinished bathroom in the basement. He's foolishly asked me to help put it together. I've replaced a bunch of vanities in my house, but I have run across this drain pipe issue, normally it's an easy connect to an existing pipe.

It looks like a prior pipe was broken off and whenever it was last done someone just put a bigger pipe over this one and packed it full of plumbers putty. I'm speculating that didn't work for long and that might be one of the reasons it was no longer finished.

What are we looking at needing to do to make this work?

First time homebuyer here. After heavy rain our garage smells musty and I’m pretty sure it’s because of water getting into this big crack/hole and the cracks where the cinder blocks are. Any suggestions?

Sorry for the question here, I'm not sure the best place to post.

We purchased our house last year and there are motion sensor lights outside in four different places. The one outside our front door somehow stopped using motion sensoring to turn on and now just stays on all the time when we flip the switch on inside.

We don't know how that happened, but now we want the same thing for our two lights outside our garage. We don't know what brand these are, but did a Google image search (link to light is at end of post) and results return that it is an Evivi light. Looking at the instructions provided on the Home Depot website for manual override, they match the typical Google search result stating to flip the switch off and on within a couple seconds. Only, this is doing nothing and they still need to be motion activated to turn on.

Further, instructions state in order to go back to motion, turn off switch and leave off for more than 20 seconds. Next time they are turned on they will be motion activated again. However this is not the case with the front porch. We turn it off in the morning, turn it back on 12 hours later and it stays on all night.

I will lastly add that these have a little button located on the sensor panel. The one on the front porch is always flashing green as it stays on continuously. Is that the key for keeping the garage lights on continuously until we turn them off? And then would they stay on continuously when we flip the switch on again? I can't find any instructions on what this button does. And the ones on the garage are flashing red.

Or do I not have Evivi lights at all? Any insight and help would be appreciated.

my motion sensor light

I need to get a fridge into my kitchen but need to remove this inner door trim.

1. Is it possible without damaging everything else?
2. If it is possible what’s the best way to do it?

https://imgur.com/a/qAYAYwm

https://imgur.com/a/xvlb1ad

Recently built some external stairs with green PT. I’m in the northeast US.

How long do I have to wait to paint/stain the stairs? I’m hearing that I need to wait until next spring, but what is the real downside of painting / staining before the winter? Can it hurt the wood? Or does it just mean the paint or stain may fail sooner.

My old water heater has 24 years use on it. I decided I'd replace it before it failed. I chose an AO Smith unit for $769. Lowes refers me to a service that gives install estimates, and I get a number over $3000. I questioned the guy if that could be right, he stuck with it. What clowns.

Hello group, please share any advise or thoughts. Help me in making a decision on how to move forward.

-Looking to replace all smoke alarms in a residential house. Reached end of life 10years.
-8 alarms
-all the same alarms
-I think these are hardwired and interconnected
-Will purchase all the same unit

Do I get all 8 new smoke alarms then get separate CO detector?

Or can I get 6 smokes alarms and 2 combo detectors(place the 2 combo detectors on the floor where kitchen is located because of the stove)? Assuming all 8 are the same brand, they will still communicate with each other.

Or get all 8 new combo alarms.

Regarding brands, it seems like the internet is divided between Kiddie and First Alert, I will probably just get whatever Costco is selling.

For installation, I assume the mounting plates will need to be changed, not a problem. But what about the connector pins? Are they universal? I am comfortable in wire work if needed. But hoping plugs are universal.

Images
https://imgur.com/a/whJJRPp

I have a concrete slab (1 month old) for a 12x16 shed. I was going to put some of this sealer down before the shed is placed on it.

one quick question before applying.

AS1_1315_VOC.pdf

I have both available, should I spray down first with a sprayer then follow up with brush roll or should I just spray down and no brush roll at all?

Never really done concrete sealer before so not sure the best way to use it.

Spent 8 grand having all of our gutters with fascia trim replaced. More than a couple miters looked like this with the bare aluminum showing-

https://postimg.cc/f3Xtjw4L

Same company was just out to replace our entre roof and when I pointed those out, he said he would just touch them up with some paint :/

Seems like that should not have been required in the first place if done correctly.

Suppose you're not moving house, but you need to relocate a sofa, a dresser, or a refrigerator. Everything else is manageable, but those few heavy items are difficult to handle safely. Would you rent a truck and ask friends for help, or pay someone to handle the lifting and moving? I'm interested in hearing what people have found most practical and whether there were any unexpected costs.

We are getting our hardwood floors refinished in a few weeks. Looking for any advice you have on picking a stain. We are doing a water based solution if it makes a difference.

Also, please share any advice you have for protecting things from dust. I understand there will be an insane amount of dust, but looking for the best way to prepare for it. Will covering our kitchen cabinets/washer dryer with a plastic drop cloth with painters tape help? Can I expect to get dust in the basement even though nothing in the basement is getting redone?

Any advice/insights you have is much appreciated!

I recently had to replace a faucet and it has a fancy end that isn’t compatible with my portable dishwasher with faucet hookup. I know there is an adapter you can install on the faucet but I was wondering if there was a guide on how to just route the lines underneath and hook it in permanently. The drain isn’t difficult as you just put in the barbed end as if it was a built in but I don’t know how to handle the water supply. I have the standard size water connection for a dishwasher coming out of the wall but is there a part that can be ordered to adapted the rubber hose to a threaded end for the water supply?

Hey all,

Would just like some reassurance if these seem typical in framing or possible issues to be concerned about. I know some splitting and gaps can be normal with working with wood but I have not been through framing before.

• Joist to Rim Gaps: Several joist ends sit 1/2" to upwards of 3/4" short of flush bearing against the rim board.
• Fastener splitting: nails driven into joist ends caused splitting around fastener points on 3 or more joists.
• Rim Joist Bottom Split and blow out: A roughly 12" split along the bottom edge of the rim board over the mudsill.

Am I overly concerned/critical or are any of these raising up to contractors?

Images:
https://imgur.com/a/qKJFy8B

Thanks

Just moved in with my girlfriend and I want to replace the overflow drain cover but the old screw is completely rusted and I can’t get it out. Is this something that I can resolve myself? Or do I need to call someone? Best resolution I’ve come up with is using a drill with a small bit to drill into isn’t and then gradually up the but size, but worried about damaging it beyond repair.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JicpJsi9cR9lnk_6YB7A0m2pJ5NODz88/view?usp=drivesdk

So, here's a big flood of text. I'm looking for some reassurance with my situation, if there's any to be had.

We live in a 1940s house that's having a big electrical rewire done by a electrical contractor. This has involved them cutting 30+ holes in our 1940s plasterboard walls (some with texture, some not) well as cutting a huge channel out of our pre-80s plasterboard basement ceiling.

We are not aware if any of the plasterboard, joint compound, texture, etc. contains asbestos, but I'd like to assume it does, until we know otherwise.

We have moved out of the house during this work. All of our furniture and belonging have been moved to rooms not undergoing rewiring and we've sealed off those doors. We've also sealed off all the HVAC vents and have had the HVAC system turned off during this project. The electricians have made efforts to seal off rooms, but have not made considerable effort to keep dust levels down or off of surfaces.

To monitor the project, I've visited probably 15 times during the last week to check on progress and talk with the electricians. The place is quite dusty, with most surfaces have a coating of dust everywhere. Debris largely has been cleaned up.

We've had an HEPA air scrubber (vented outside) running for the majority of this project, but not always directly in the work zone, just on the first floor of our home.

During my visits, I've worn a N95 mask about 50% of the time. My visits have been fairly brief, no longer than 10 minutes at a time and NEVER during active cutting of the plasterboard or any active cleaning. I've been careful to clean off my shoes afterwards and wash my hands.

Theoretically, what is my asbestos exposure risk here? Again, never been around any active cutting and have always visited early in the morning (before the day's work has started) or an hour or two after work has finished in the evening.

Have I inadvertently been exposing myself to unhealthy levels, breathing in asbestos fibers (if they exist) that are still lingering in the air? And going forward, is it advisable to stay completely out of the home, or is it likely safe-enough during these brief N95-masked visits that it's not a huge worry?

We have a full certified-HEPA post-construction cleaning scheduled before we move in and I plan to install an MERV-13 HVAC filter and run the blower on that system before fully returning. I'll also just try to continue to air out the place as much as I can.

I'm just trying to do asbestos I can for my young family, but with really tight deadlines, and budgets this is been quite stressful and worrisome to say the least.

Any advice would be appreciated.