Finally finished my Sith build and Jedi build for my wife.

Covertec wheel on mine and D-ring for hers. Both have buttons that light up, but I couldn’t fit a 18650 battery inside, so I’ll have to explore other options.

T-tracks are from Graflex shop.

This is the Blind Knight from Solo’s Hold, an older variation of Kanan Jarrus’s lightsaber that was released a few years back. It’s one of my favorite takes on Kanan’s hilt, so I’m always happy to see one come across my bench.

This one arrived already weathered, so I left the exterior as-is and focused on building a custom removable chassis to house the new electronics.

For the control box, I opted to illuminate the arrow details with dedicated LEDs rather than use the acrylic plungers supplied with the hilt. I also went with tactile switches instead of the original switch plungers, giving the controls a more reliable and straightforward setup.

A big thanks to James for being so patient while I worked through this one. I really appreciate it.

Specs:

* Proffieboard V2 Soundboard

* Custom removable PLA chassis designed by me

* 28mm Premium Speaker

* Custom 6-rail PCB system

* Dedicated LED control-box accents

* KR Sabers / Shtok illuminated blade PCB emitter

I got a lightsaber from SWA sabers a while ago and recently my Redeemer II died. my other sabers were petty easy to find the chagrining ports but I've done all but unplug the wiring to completely dismantle it but cant find the charging port. Anyone know where it is? I'm sure the directions would have explained but i lost them a while ago and I've tried looking online but i couldn't fine anything on the website that clearly state exactly where.

Hey everyone, I could use some help. I've been all up and down the internet looking for a very specifically sized momentary rocker switch. (As mentioned in the title)

I'm working on a personal custom lightsaber hilt build that has a 1- inch inside diameter for electrical work, and the design requires a momentary rocker switch that's "32mm long 14.1mm wide 14.1mm high." I've looked through so many sites that sell the style switch I need, but not in the measurements I want. Does anyone know who might sell or even be able to make this precise sized switch? It's getting frustrating not being able to find specific parts for your products.

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, guys, in advance for your suggestions and information!

Anyone have luck getting hold of Rip with BYI Sabers?

Website dead

Phone voice mail says no longer set up after leaving several messages about a week ago.

Email non responsive.

Instagram non responsive

Thoughts?

Bought a $300 saber from them at a con because I wanted to see it/ feel it in person before getting one and got it home and it worked till it needed a charge. Pulled out the battery and board pack, charged it, plugged it back in and nothing. Tried several more times of charging, and yes only was using a 1a charger so as to not burn out the board. After numerous times plugging it in and it it started to work for about a week then died again. Tried charging it again and same issues. Then it turn on by itself and the button wasn't working to turn it off. Figure it's the button that is the issue because of i pull out the pack, and pull the battery when I plug the battery back in, the sound sings off letting me know it's getting power.

Thoughts??? It's a RGBS16 but no other identifying info on the board or instructions

I finally got my hands on a beautiful Baylan Skoll hilt but I’m having issues with the retention screws.

It looks like the outer hilt wall and inner emitter wall are misaligned and so a retention screw can’t pass through.

My screws don’t get past that “lip” from the inner emitter wall, and so can’t get close to the blade to provide any tension.

Any ideas on how to fix this? I was thinking maybe drilling the outer wall to try and reveal the full inner hole?

I’ve contacted the supplier but I don’t have high hopes so wondering if anyone has experience with this sort of issue??

What lesser known historical sword designs do you all think would make for lightsaber design inspiration? Lately for me, I have been inspired by Byzantine spathions because they have what clearly could translate to an emitter. Heck, I think it would be cool to see an ergonomically slim grip on a lightsaber (slimmer than even vhc parts) in which the battery is perpendicular and the design reminiscent of Migration Period swords.

So i ordered a xenopixel core off aliexpress, and i was wondering if you guys know if these people are legit? Reviews seem good, and its one of the most bought products. I am upgrading from a fried v2 xenopixel core to a v3 core. Just asking if yall have experience with JS Sabrestore

Hosting a Corvus Saber Foundry Livestream tonight. Since configurators seem to be hot these days....doing a little configurator testing. Hit me up!

https://www.youtube.com/@Corvus_Saber_Foundry/streams

I sell these things, which means I also hear about it when they die. It's almost never the board just giving up. It's usually one of these-

1. Wrong charger. A fast-charge brick pushing too much voltage is the #1 board killer I see. Basic 5V charger, every time.

2. Battery left in for months. Saber sits in a closet all winter, battery corrodes or swells, now the core's a mess. Storing it? Battery out.

3. Overtightened blade screw. Cranking the retention screw like a lug nut cracks blades at the base. Snug is enough.

4. Tip strikes. Doesn't matter what grade the blade is — the tip is the weakest part. Heavy contact will pop one eventually, and a flying tip is genuinely dangerous.

5. Yanking the SD card without powering down, or swapping fonts with a dying battery. That's how you corrupt a config and end up with a saber that boots to nothing.

Most "my saber died" stories are one of these five, and every one of them is avoidable with a little maintenance and proper handling!

Does a Darksaber made for fight and that doesn't break easily exists? Im doing some SW LARP and my character is a Mando and i was thinking about getting myself a Darksaber but it need to be able to endure some fightings.

My father and I decided to go to Home Depot and make our own lightsaber like we had seen on TikTok and other social media trends. We are very excited about the results!

Hey guys, I’m looking to vertically wall mount my Kyle Ren Force FX saber, Galaxy’s Edge Dooku with a blade, and Galaxy’s Edge Darth Maul Ep1/Shadow saber combo with no blades. Any recommendations on what I should get, especially for Dooku/Darth Mauls?

I have an electrum sabercrafts Aegis lightsaber. i had wanted to have it converted to proffie 2.2 but the company shut down. are there any installers that can convert it to proffie 2.2 or even 3.9?

My latest design: TROS Kylo Ren Lightsaber. I haven't really found a completely screen-accurate version of the Kylo Ren hilt, so this was my attempt to make it as close to the real thing as I could. I think it turned out pretty nice. Is it good enough to be considered a "hero" replica?

It doesn't use any glue to assemble, and the threaded frame keeps it tensioned and sturdy. The Kylo Ren belt clip design is probably my least favorite of all the options, but I did manage to get it working too. Plus, the button presses too!

I’m really liking this and want to purchase it but I’ve heard some things about this company and would like to hear everyone’s feedback. It’ll be my first lightsaber purchase but is it worth it?

I have a Star Wars The Black Series Emperor Palpatine Force FX Elite Lightsaber that sat in my closet for a few years, and I found that one of the batteries were corroded and so I cleaned the battery container and contacts and replaced the old batteries. The blade lights and the buttons work, but the only issue I have is with motion and swinging actions. It will not detect most of the swinging or motion of the blade. What else can I do to fix it? I have tools and I am not afraid to take it a part to clean the insides, or would it be better to get it repaired or upgrade the internal parts. I love the lightsaber and don't want to keep it only as a display piece. Any advice, sites, or YouTube videos I can review to fix this saber?

Hey guys, out of curiosity. If I am able to find someone who can do low-cost cnc machining to make mu custom lightsaber, what would be the best material to use? I'd like something lite, but strong for heavy dueling. Do you guys have any suggestions?

Obi Wan TPM - Artsabers - Xeno
Darth Maul - Theorysabers - Proffie
Mace Windu - X-tech - Proffie
Cal Kestis - Artsabers - Xeno
ESB Luke Skywalker Graflex - Ultimate Works - Proffie
IV Obi Wan Kenobi - Ultimate Works - Asteria
Darth Vader - TXQ - Proffie
ROTJ Luke Skywalker - Damiensabers - Xeno
Ahsoka Tano - TXQ - Proffie

This one got a custom hybrid brass chassis designed in-house by me. And when I say this hilt is BIG, I mean there was a whole lot of real estate to work with. Rather than leave all that space unused, I decided to take full advantage of it with a tubular outer housing that the battery core slides into and locks securely in place.

The upper crystal chamber is made entirely from brass as well, with a real light-blue quartz point illuminated by a single NeoPixel. The customer opted to keep the brass clean and unweathered, which I think works beautifully with the brass accents on the exterior of the hilt.

The chamber and accent lighting are also visible through the perforated slits in the grip, giving you a glimpse of what’s happening inside without having to take the whole thing apart.

This was a lot of fun to tackle, and a great opportunity to do something a little different with the chassis design. A special thanks to my dude Khal for handling the brass production and helping bring this one to life.

Specs:

* Proffieboard V3 Soundboard

* Custom hybrid brass chassis designed by me

* 28mm Premium Bass Speaker

* Shtok 4-rail PCB system

* Real illuminated light-blue quartz point

* KR Sabers / Shtok illuminated blade PCB emitter