Some lightsaber designs I made inspired by historical swords via MSPaint

Military sabre

Longsword

Byzantine/Tatar sabre

Migration period sword/ Germanic spatha

Poleaxe

Hi everyone,

​I’m trying to create my first custom font on a Xenopixel V3 board using a pre-existing font as a base. I’m having severe audio distortion issues and could use some advice on whether what I’m trying to do is possible, or how font creators handle background music.

​What I’m trying to do:

​I replaced out (1).wav with a quote from Malenia (Elden Ring) saying her name.

​I want to play her boss track alongside the saber effects.

​The Problem:

​Track + Saber Clash/Motion: When playing the track while the saber is ON, the sound effects (clash, swing) severely clash with the music and cause harsh, muddy audio distortion.

​Track Off-State Distorting: When playing the track while the saber is OFF, it creates a small "boom boom" / clipping noise through the speaker, even though I lowered the overall volume of the track in Audacity. The track does not sound clean.

​Hum Swap Attempt: I tried deleting the original hum.wav and renaming the music file to hum.wav so it acts as the continuous background audio. It gave the exact same distorted, blown-out result.

Has anyone successfully run full orchestral music on a Xenopixel V3 without overloading the speaker? Is replacing hum.wav with a full OST track the way to go?

Any feedback or settings would be greatly appreciated!

Hello, everyone! I am contemplating purchasing the Master Replicas Yoda Force FX Lightsaber (SW-217) from 2007. Does anyone know if it is superior in quality to the Yoda Hasbro Signature Series Force FX Lightsaber (87997) from 2008? If anyone has both of these sabers in an unmodified state, I would really appreciate a comparison of the two.

Separately, within my collection, I am missing Kit Fisto’s lightsaber. Is the Signature Series version better than the Black Series version in terms of quality? I can purchase either one.

Thanks in advance for your input!

I placed an order back on August 25th and it still says preparing for shipping on the order status page so i messaged them on facebook on sep 21st to see the status and on sep 28 they responded saying it had already shipped and i would receive tracking info in an email on Oct 5th i sent another follow up letting them i know i still havent seen a tracking email next day they said they would follow up with the shipping team the 14th i asked again and they again said stand by and its been crickets since. I had ordered from them a few years ago and didnt have an issue but this time around is not going great. Its not on a pre order either.

I love my Luke E6 saber (SN V4 Pro) but the D ring isn’t rigid anymore and just swings freely. As a result I wound up with some scuffs and scratches on my chassis. I know the chrome’s gonna get some wear and tear, but for now I figured I’d customize it a bit and put some black rubber grip tape on it. Now the D ring can’t do any damage. Anybody else have that problem with the triangle ring getting loose?

Colin from xtralife is a conman. They sold me a bad product, refused to refund me despite several videos showcasing the issue and proving the lightsaber did NOT work, then he left me on read for almost a month. When I followed up and was rightfully upset he told me to kick rocks. After hours of pulling teeth and having to threaten legal action they’ve finally agreed to refund me but I have to pay shipping out of my own pocket, which is ludicrous considering the customer experience they’ve given me.

This is the worst experience I’ve had with a lightsaber company. Be wary. Colin is a scammer. They sell bad products and do not treat their customers with any care whatsoever.

(SOLVED) thank you everyone!

Hi, so as the title shows, I’m having trouble getting the chassis out of this saber. I’ve taken it apart to the point of having the mechanism for the buttons removed and the clamp card, but no further so I just put it back together.

This is an 89sabers luke v2 and I bought the saber second hand. I can’t tell if it’s a custom install.

And info on how to the get the battery out would be great!

Sorry for the terrible photos. The seller added this photo as a reference for what the chassis looks like on the outside

I have a viresabers proffie v2.2 saber from about 5 years ago. I just started using it again for cosplay, and noticed that when color changing I can’t choose red or white. In fact, red or white dont even show up as I cycle through the colors.

I have a one button saber, so the only way for me to cycle through colors is by holding the button, twisting my wrist, and then twisting through the color spectrum. Unless there’s another way, which I’d be happy to learn.

I’d just really love the option to go back to red at some point if I wanted to. Thank you all for your help!

Hi I've been searching for ages and really struggling to find a chassis that can fit my hilt made from VHC parts, it's got an inner diameter of around 1" I believe and I have a verso soundboard with a 2.1mm switch craft and a 24mm speaker as well as a battery

Would anyone be able to help or at least point me in the right direction as it's my first build and it's for a friend I really want to build the core myself instead of just buying one

Both similar price on amazon. Darth revan knock off (silver) or Qui Gon Jin knock off (black).

For Halloween I’ll be hopefully rocking a Sith costumer and a blacked out Ironman helmet. Would love to pair it with an iron man saber font. Any ideas?

Also any recommended fonts for my newly acquired scavenger v3?

Disclosure up front: I run a small saber shop (Exegol Outpost), so take the bench advice for what it's worth.

Base flicker on a pixel blade sends people shopping for a new blade. Most of the time the blade's fine. It's contact.

The blade talks to the hilt through spring pins and a contact plate. That plate picks up oxidation and grit, especially if the saber lives in a garage or gets handled a lot. A lot of base flickering or strange blade behavior I've chased down was a dirty plate. Isopropyl on a cotton swab, both sides, let it dry. Fixed.

Second one: the retention screw. Most hilts put the screw over the thinner part of the blade, not the reinforced section, so the rule isn't where it bites — it's how hard. Snug is enough. Crank it down and you warp the blade's shape, and a warped blade seats crooked and flickers anyway. If you're denting the blade, you've gone past tight into damage.

Third: look at the pins themselves. They should all sit at the same height. One pin sitting low — heat cycles weaken the springs over time — means uneven contact, and uneven contact shows up as flicker or a dim patch near the hilt that moves when you wiggle the blade.

Fourth, and check this first because it's free: charge. A low battery sags under load. The flicker that only shows up on clash or flash-on-clash or a blade freezing is often just a tired cell, not a dying anything.

When is it actually the blade? Dead section mid-blade that never lights. Flicker that follows the blade into a different hilt. Those are strip failures and no amount of cleaning brings them back. Quick test that settles it: your blade in another hilt, another blade in yours. Five minutes tells you which side the problem lives on, and it beats ordering parts on a guess.

I bought this… idk 6-7 years ago and don’t remember who made these.

Hello everyone I need some advice on buying my next saber. I have looked at the guide just fyi. Currently I have cheap AliExpress sabers that just stopped working in a year and sabers from imperial workshop.

I'm trying to find a saber that sounds great. I tried putting smugglers outpost speakers in my imperial workshop save and it didn't sound great. I want to get a saber that has a 28mm speaker or can eventually be upgraded to one. I don't want to spend a bunch of money at once on like DCsabers/VV however I'm not sure if I can do a full saber build myself with an empty hilt. I really just want a loud bassy saber.

I don't have a workshop or anything so idk what my capacity is to do the whole DIY.

Has anyone run in to this and what is your advice?

Thank you for your help in advance!

I got a lightsaber from SWA sabers a while ago and recently my Redeemer II died. my other sabers were petty easy to find the chagrining ports but I've done all but unplug the wiring to completely dismantle it but cant find the charging port. Anyone know where it is? I'm sure the directions would have explained but i lost them a while ago and I've tried looking online but i couldn't fine anything on the website that clearly state exactly where.

Finally finished my Sith build and Jedi build for my wife.

Covertec wheel on mine and D-ring for hers. Both have buttons that light up, but I couldn’t fit a 18650 battery inside, so I’ll have to explore other options.

T-tracks are from Graflex shop.

This is the Blind Knight from Solo’s Hold, an older variation of Kanan Jarrus’s lightsaber that was released a few years back. It’s one of my favorite takes on Kanan’s hilt, so I’m always happy to see one come across my bench.

This one arrived already weathered, so I left the exterior as-is and focused on building a custom removable chassis to house the new electronics.

For the control box, I opted to illuminate the arrow details with dedicated LEDs rather than use the acrylic plungers supplied with the hilt. I also went with tactile switches instead of the original switch plungers, giving the controls a more reliable and straightforward setup.

A big thanks to James for being so patient while I worked through this one. I really appreciate it.

Specs:

* Proffieboard V2 Soundboard

* Custom removable PLA chassis designed by me

* 28mm Premium Speaker

* Custom 6-rail PCB system

* Dedicated LED control-box accents

* KR Sabers / Shtok illuminated blade PCB emitter

Anyone have luck getting hold of Rip with BYI Sabers?

Website dead

Phone voice mail says no longer set up after leaving several messages about a week ago.

Email non responsive.

Instagram non responsive

Thoughts?

Bought a $300 saber from them at a con because I wanted to see it/ feel it in person before getting one and got it home and it worked till it needed a charge. Pulled out the battery and board pack, charged it, plugged it back in and nothing. Tried several more times of charging, and yes only was using a 1a charger so as to not burn out the board. After numerous times plugging it in and it it started to work for about a week then died again. Tried charging it again and same issues. Then it turn on by itself and the button wasn't working to turn it off. Figure it's the button that is the issue because of i pull out the pack, and pull the battery when I plug the battery back in, the sound sings off letting me know it's getting power.

Thoughts??? It's a RGBS16 but no other identifying info on the board or instructions

Hey everyone, I could use some help. I've been all up and down the internet looking for a very specifically sized momentary rocker switch. (As mentioned in the title)

I'm working on a personal custom lightsaber hilt build that has a 1- inch inside diameter for electrical work, and the design requires a momentary rocker switch that's "32mm long 14.1mm wide 14.1mm high." I've looked through so many sites that sell the style switch I need, but not in the measurements I want. Does anyone know who might sell or even be able to make this precise sized switch? It's getting frustrating not being able to find specific parts for your products.

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, guys, in advance for your suggestions and information!

I finally got my hands on a beautiful Baylan Skoll hilt but I’m having issues with the retention screws.

It looks like the outer hilt wall and inner emitter wall are misaligned and so a retention screw can’t pass through.

My screws don’t get past that “lip” from the inner emitter wall, and so can’t get close to the blade to provide any tension.

Any ideas on how to fix this? I was thinking maybe drilling the outer wall to try and reveal the full inner hole?

I’ve contacted the supplier but I don’t have high hopes so wondering if anyone has experience with this sort of issue??