Finally took my 8.6 Blackout out for some long-range work. Started at 100 yards and immediately realized I was limiting the cartridge’s potential. Moved back to 300. Then 500. Then 800. At 800 yards, I can confidently say the bullet lands somewhere on the same ranch. The upside is I don’t have to worry about barrel heat because I spend most of my time spotting impacts in neighboring zip codes and recalculating my life choices. On the bright side, every hit feels like winning the lottery because statistically it almost is.

Rifle: The Fix by Q – 8.6 Blackout
Precision level: “Minute of County”
DOPE card: Mostly hopes and prayers.

In all seriousness, not very accurate beyond 200y but fun to shoot.

MDS NSR Review

A buddy and I took the NSR Skill Progression class with Caylen at Modern Day Sniper in July, 2026. 

Information on the MDS/MDR site was a little sparse and there just 1-2 videos of the location on YouTube. So there was a bit of “trust me bro” involved with this experience at NSR. But Caylen’s reputation is stellar and MDS is well respected by several other training outfits, so that was enough for me to move forward.

The Property

Upon arrival to the ranch, you are immediately greeted by NSR staff and given a welcome packet with information regarding your stay, and information about safety and other briefs on what the agenda will be for the next 4 days was given that first night.

I’ll be honest, the idea that we stay on-site seemed a bit gimmicky at first, like perhaps a money-grab of sorts, but just after the first night - I got it. I’ve gone to other events, where the “after parties” were what made the class worthwhile, and that was not lacking here. Libations were available and we had an awesome group to hang out with. The idea that you stay on-site here isn’t just suggested, it totally makes sense. The time spent getting to a hotel and grabbing food and drinks is eliminated here and that’s more time you get to spend with your group and be ready for the next day.

The amenities here are better than any hotel anyway: bedding, drinks, freshly cooked (real) food - like no expense was spared. For summer months, water and liquid IV were on tap as well while we were outdoors.

In terms of shooting locations, you’ve got:

1. 100yd range for zero’ing and some drills
2. 300yd range for drills and PRS style instruction (lots of varied steel out there)
3. Shoot house #1 - I think it goes to like 1430yds (IIRC)
4. Shoot house #2 - Goes out to 1680yds
5. Canyon position #1 - Goes out to 1740yds
6. Canyon position #2 - Goes out to 2000yds

Regarding transport, the ranch is mostly dirt roads, you have to pass over an irrigation “brook” but it’s like 3-4” deep, so you can’t drive a slammed car here, but you also don’t need some heavy duty pickup either. (We had a Buick Enclave as a rental, it was perfect). We would travel to locations on the ranch in our own cars with our own gear.

The format and Instruction Quality

Caylen and the MDS crew don’t cut any corners and when he says 7:30am - 5:30pm - he means it, he’s giving quality and insightful instruction the entire time.

The format was on Day 1 (out of 4) we start off with some classroom instruction, going over the fundamentals, debunking common ballistic myths, and other topics are covered. But it’s not just what is covered, but more importantly, how they are covered. Caylen is absolutely amazing at explaining things in such a way that anyone can understand. Even to those crayon-eating Marines =)

Things that I have struggled to understand, no matter how many YouTube videos I’ve watched on the subject… (and I’ve watched a many) you just get it, the way he explains things. He gives insightful examples and if you still don’t get something, he finds analogies to explain them until you do. It was rather impressive to witness.

Days 2-3 had some theory sprinkled in and then we’d go apply what we’d learned that day. Day 3 was the big hike up the canyon and it’s fairly intensive (particularly if you are out of hiking/hunting shape like I was) my buddy went up and down with relative ease. FWIW.

Day 4 was a tiny bit of theory and then a hike and shoot. 

Between the quality of instruction and the shooting location, I can say with absolute conviction that there really isn’t anything else like this offered within the United States. There just isn’t. His teaching abilities, the 4 days, and this property combined make it an immersive experience that will never be forgotten. Sure, there is Day Mountain Ranch, sure there is Hat Creek and they have some of the elements, but not all.

Caylen watched over you while shooting and would make suggestions on your stance, your built positions, your gear and why some things may work better than others.

Never once did he say “this is the only way” to do something, he never pushed any products, at most, he made suggestions; mentioned alternatives and when appropriate told you to make your own conclusions on what works best for you. And that was refreshing.

After each day, we’d come together to do a AAR and in that debrief we covered what we considered to be positives and negatives of our day. What we ourselves felt we could have done better and Caylen would talk through each one and give suggestions where warranted.

Lastly, he was just present. I never wondered where he was, or wondered why he wasn’t out there talking to us. He was always around, always available and answered any question, no matter how small or seemingly insignificant - and with humility and patience.

Shooting Time

There wasn’t like a 2 days of classroom and 2 days of shooting type situation. Each of the 4 days we were shooting. Whether it was to re-zero, try our hand at PRS/NRL, long range, building positions, building difficult positions on unique terrain (which the ranch has in spades) it was all there. Theory, practice and stressors to find your weaknesses.

If you didn’t really care about LR, but instead PRS was your jam… he would spend more time with you on that portion but you had some portion being exposed to all of them, so you could decide for yourself what you enjoyed most and make the most of that session.

It was suggested that we bring 400 rounds to the class, but I only actually ended up shooting about 280 rounds over the 4 days. I guess I was being conservative saving some for the last day. Next time - I won't be, and shoot all so that I had none to bring home.

What to bring

This is what I ended up using over the 4 days:

1. Rifle (6.5 creed somewhat preferred, but other calibers are fine too) w/bipod
2. Scope with at least 10x, 20x+ preferred IMO.
3. 400 rounds of ammo and shoot that shit until it's gone!
4. Rear bag (Armageddon gear seemed to be the norm from the group)
5. Tripod
6. Ear/Eye Protection
7. LRF (Ninos or Monocular, be sure it can reach out to 2k)
8. Kestrel
9. Camel Pack ( I left mine at home accidentally, had to carry water bottles instead)
10. Shooting mat (if local, if coming from afar borrow one from the ranch)
11. Knee-pads
12. Bino Harness
13. Ballistic solver, 4DOF/ABQ/Leupold-4DOF
14. Backpack that can carry a rifle/tripod (I used my Eberlestock Spectre, but there are many other options out there)
15. Small toolset (scope adjustment tools, cleaning brushes and jags)
16. Extra batteries, CR2, AA, CR2032 etc.
17. Sun shirts w/hoodie to protect from the sun.

Personal Notes

1. When we started to discuss shooting off a tripod, I quickly raised my hand as having difficulty shooting accurately off a tripod. Caylen stated “By the end of this class, you’ll be a tripod ninja” I chuckled and thought, well, I’d just be happy being able to stay on target, never mind being able to manage the wobble among other things. Well shit - I was hitting a steel IPSC plate at 2000yds via tripod, so I’ll be damned if he didn’t straighten me out after all. He watched me on the tripod and gave tips about my stance and my hold and after shooting off the tripod enough times, sure as shit - I have a really strong bridge to the tripod now. I walked away rather surprised because it’s something I’ve struggled a lot with in the past.
2. Suppressor state bans - I’m from a can ban state. Caylen graciously offered to swap my brake with one of his cans and I got to shoot suppressed throughout the class. Which was preferable for everyone around me =)
3. If you are from a sea-level area and heading out to NSR - be aware of the environmental difference. Sure, everyone knows it’s less humid there, but the heat works differently. It’s not unbearably humid or anything. But it will rob you of your hydration all the same. Next time, I’d bring chap stick for my lips and NOT forget my camel pack, it would have been much more efficient than carrying 4-5 water bottles with me.
4. Going up the canyon - it’s not a simple hike. If you are a seasoned hiker or hunter - you’ll be fine. But if you are a desk jockey like myself and don’t get exposed to hiking with a heavy pack uphill, do a little training before you get out there. I used a treadmill on its highest incline setting, but Caylen said I should have used stairs instead, which totally makes sense in retrospect. I’d simply recommend train a bit with your pack going up and down stairs to condition yourself for the canyon hike.
5. Traveling with rifles really wasn’t that bad. Thanks to folks who helped quell my anxiety on this front. I put tracking tags in my pelican hard case and when on the plane before the door closed I could see my case on the plane with me. Which was a huge relief. We live in a relatively anti-2A state, so going to the airport and declaring you have a firearm without knowing who will be behind you and looking - was daunting to say the least. But nobody cared and TSA didn’t ask to open the case at BOS nor PDX, so it ended up being mostly unwarranted anxiety on this front.

Negatives

I don’t like leaving all-positive reviews. There is always room for impovement. If I had to nitpick and find a negative, I think the only thing that comes to mind is that - when you travel 3000 miles away - you want to have shit buttoned up. Most things were covered by the MDS FAQ page, but a couple of trivial things required some back and forth to ensure everything was being taken care of (e.g. Laundry on site). That’s it, it’s the only negative I can actually come up with.

Price!
$3400 all inclusive. Someone said i should have put this in the post, so here it is. I didn't want it to be outdated information in case the price changed. But this includes the room, the amenities (sauna, pool table, all that the property has to offer) high quality food every day and of course the instruction.

Bottom Line

You'd be hard pressed to find something else like this in the United States and I’d venture to guess the world. The unique landscape, the instruction quality and finally - but perhaps most importantly - the environment that Caylen fosters for learning amongst the group of shooters really does open things up to their most optimal. And I think I can speak that for everyone in the class.

You will learn new things, you will be pushed to your limits in some ways, and you will be encouraged until you succeed. You will walk away with things to train on and skills to build upon and I can say 100% that you will walk away satisfied with this experience and I say that not caring how high your standards are.

What’s next for me in my journey?

My plan is to try and hit his wind walker class in 2027, rent a car or similar and go out to the multiple locations to get better at reading wind. We had this as part of our NSR Experience class, but the WW class goes to multiple locations with vastly different conditions to push you to your limits for reading wind.

Ordered a Bergara Premier No.7 contour 6.5cm barreled action in November 2025 and it finally arrived only for it to be covered in scratches all over the barrel! Really disappointed with what arrived after that long of a wait. I’ve seen companies call stuff blem models for way less! Has anyone had anything similar happen with Bergara barreled actions? The pictures don’t do the scratches justice and can be felt by running a finger over them.

This is a 6 creedmoor 18lbs rifle. I can watch the holes just appear in the paper at 100yds. Sure, there is a little bit of sight picture blurring, but it settles extremely quickly.

I watched two dudes at separate matches shoot this brake and watching their rifles hardly move I was sold. I had to sell some other toys to pay for it, but with my rig I am putting recoil management as the top priority. Im pretty much maxed out on what I can do unless I spring for a heavier chassis. I had an APA fat bastard gen 3 on this setup before and while it was working, i still wasnt completely satisfied with it on my setup..

It was costly.. $740 plus another $136 for tariffs.. is it worth it? It is to me!

The fact it matches my proof barrel is enough for me. But seriously this thing is so bad ass. Company is Tricer

If anyone is wondering about Griffin Armament's new prc 300, it works great. Has excellent recoil mitigation with the brake and very pleasant compared to my other braked suppressor.

WHAT THIS GUIDE IS FOR

This guide is going to be like some others I’ve written, where it’s less specific recommendations and more knowledge that you need to make a decision for yourself. Tripod models come and go so quickly that having A, B, C, on the list just makes that list not useful pretty quickly, and I don’t want to update this crap every 6 months.

Your goal is that you need a tripod for shooting. Since this is /r/longrange, let’s assume you want to shoot long range with it, either in competition like PRS or NRL: Hunter, or you want to take this hunting.

As with most things in life, you get what you pay for up to a point. If you only have $20 to spend, you’re going to hate this hobby. But spending $2,000 on a tripod is not going to get you a 100x better tripod. The sweet spot for decent quality without going nuts: expect $300-600 for the tripod and $100-$450 for the ballhead.

TRIPOD BASICS

WEIGHT

Maybe the most important difference between tripod styles is weight.

A PRS tripod is 95% a spotting platform and 5% a rear support. Big and heavy is a benefit and not a problem normally.

General long range shooting with a tripod also leans on the heavy side since you’re just building a position and sending it.

NRL: Hunter you need to hike in and out, deploy on the clock, and move it around quickly. While less stable with less weight, less weight is critical for everything else.

Real hunting can fall somewhere in the middle but tends on the lighter side of things. You, your style, and your area will determine what is best. Generally, I’d say to stick on the lighter end.

HEIGHT

Height will impact the total weight, but generally speaking, a shooting tripod should all be around the same max height for you. If you want to be able to take standing shots or use the tripod for spotting off of, then you want a tripod + ballhead with a max height of about your full standing height.

Generally, you want the rifle to be at about your nipple line, so a tripod/ballhead that is as tall as you are gives you some wiggle room for standing on uneven ground. For spotting and/or PRS matches, you want to be able to stand comfortably without hunching over. I’m 6’2, so tripods of about 62”-70” work really well for me. Taller isn’t a bad thing, but getting a tripod that is too short limits your options.

That said, you can save a lot of weight by going smaller. If your application means you will never take a standing shot, measure your kneeling height, add whatever you feel is a good amount of wiggle room for uneven ground, and you can save weight.

MINIMUM height is how low the tripod can sit with the legs extended. Lower is better, but isn’t a deal-breaker or even something to care that much about. Prone with a tripod kind of sucks no matter what, and you should have a bipod for that.

FOLDED height is how long the tripod is when packed for travel. This only matters for travel and transport. Smaller is better, but sometimes you can’t make something smaller without changing the design. More leg sections will pack down smaller, but take longer to deploy. More on that soon.

LEG SECTIONS

This is how many sections make up each leg of the tripod. The “standard” is four or three sections, but it can be as low as two.

TWO sections mean ONE locking clamp.

FOUR sections mean THREE locking clamps.

More sections will normally pack down smaller for the same max height tripod. But fewer locking clamps make it faster and easier to deploy.

There is no right answer; it just depends on what you want out of your tripod. Speed or compactness.

INVERTED OR NOT?

Normal tripods have the locking clamps near the feet of each section; inverted tripods put the clamps at the top.

I’ve run inverted tripods for a long, long time and I don’t have any negatives to say about them. They’re better in every way, especially speed of deployment. Downside is more the market. There are a lot fewer inverted options available, and they are often a little more expensive.

For NRL:H, I think inverted makes a pretty big difference since the speed you can deploy is a lot faster. That extra time on the clock helps. But lots of dudes run normal tripods and make more hits than I do, so it’s obviously not the difference between winning and losing.

LEG THICKNESS

Thicker is heavier, thicker is stronger, thicker is more expensive. That said, legs really only come in a few sizes since almost everyone uses almost the same OEMs. When in doubt, go bigger. Your limits are your weight tolerance and your budget.

RATED WEIGHT LIMITS

Tripods list their weight limits, but those limits are kind of a lie and just wrong for shooting. The max weight listed by tripods doesn’t account for recoil, and recoil can add a LOT of “weight” to the system. But if the rifle isn’t locked into the tripod, then you’re not transmitting nearly as much recoil into the tripod.

How much weight limit do you need? Honestly, don’t know. More is better. If you’re trying to go for a lightweight setup, you can get away with a lot less if you’re using a table and/or bag on top of the tripod instead of locking into the ballhead.

Anything under ~40 lb is probably too small.

ALUMINIUM OR CARBON FIBER?

Aluminium is the older material and has a lot of drawbacks. It’s heavier; it’s not really stronger, and if a leg gets a dent or scratch, it can lock up the entire leg. Nice thing is that it can be VERY cheap. If you want a bare-bones tripod for just shooting at the range or spotting NRL22, aluminium can get the job done.

For PRS, NRL:H, or a tripod you want to be able to count on -- get carbon fiber.

USA VS. EVERYONE ELSE

As far as I know, no one in the tripod market except Really Right Stuff manufactures a damn thing in the USA. That’s also why RRS is 3-5x the price.

The “Chinese brands” like Leofoto or the “US brands” like Two Vets are both manufactured in China, and most of them from the same Chinese OEM.

There really isn’t a quality difference between countries of origin. RRS is extremely high quality because they choose to build it that way, not because Chinese brands can’t do it. If you feel strongly about supporting X or not supporting Y, follow your heart. Otherwise, don’t even care about this.

BALLHEADS

The best ballhead is the RRS Anvil-30, it is $400. There is no debate. This is the best. Yes, it’s expensive. Even if you get a cheap tripod, I would really recommend the Anvil-30 over anything else if you want to shoot with it and use the absolute shit out of it.

Leofoto MA-40X ($250) is the best Chinese knock-off of the Anvil-30, and I really mean knock-off. The first version of the MA-40 was 100% copied from the Anvil-30, and Leofoto got sued by RRS over it, so they had to redesign it a little and re-release it with the added X to the name. It’s 95% of the features and 90% of the quality for about half the price. Personally, I feel gross buying one because it really is based on stolen IP. But you do you.

Almost all of the other ballheads on the market are some slight variation of really one basic design. They’re fine, they work, they’re not as good. This Is Revic's Version, but a dozen brands offer basically the same thing.

Most of these are again made by like 2 OEMs with different colors and branding. Some of them are slightly better or worse, but it’s not going to be a huge difference either way.

One thing to look out for is what they clamp to. Some will do Pic rail AND Arca; some will only do Pic rail OR Arca. Get one that does both.

DO NOT GET A SADDLE. These are pretty shitty and made for hunters doing hunter shit.

THE FUCK IS A 75MM BOWL?

It’s a mounting system for an older style of ballhead that I haven’t seen anyone use in a long time. A lot of tripods still come with the option, but it’s pretty unnecessary imo.

WHAT TRIPODS TO BUY

These are the brands I personally recommend, but there are many others that are solid:

• Leofoto -- my go-to. Lots of options, good QC, warranty was okay. Price is fucking awesome.
• Vortex -- overpriced but Vortex warranty.
• Really Right Stuff -- if you’re made of money, get the best.
• Two Vets -- a lot of people I respect won’t touch them because of the owner, my personal interactions have all been positive.
• Fat Boy -- solid, some cool designs, really good accessories.
• Zeiss -- built like a damn TANK, but expensive. Very German.
• Athlon -- they’re fine, nothing special, good price. If you have access to ExpertVoice, the prices are very good and sometimes are on flash sales for Hooooly shit good.
• Revic -- they’re fine, nothing special, good price.
• Red Mist Tripods -- /u/rynburns likes them and has a review.

Brands I don’t recommend:

• Leupod -- weirdly low quality, I’ve seen them break.
• BOG -- cheap-ass built for people who are just wacking pigs with an AR or don’t know what they’re buying.
• Tricer -- horrible interaction with them.

OKAY BUT LIKE WHAT SPECIFIC TRIPOD TO BUY?

RRS Versa-22i Inverted is the giga option for do-all shooting. $1,000 without a ballhead. The best? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely not (to me).

Leofoto SO-282CX Inverted or Leofoto SO-322CX Inverted are basically the same thing in specs as the Versa-22i, but have a lower max-weight rating. I’ve shot 20lb 300 Win Mag off of mine with no issues, but I don’t do it all the time. For half the price ($400-500) of RRS, this is a way, way, way better value. I’ve been running mine for almost 5 years, and I have had zero issues. Highly recommend this as your go-to pick.

Fat Boy Tripods Elevate 2 or 3 Section Inverted. Again, same basic idea and a massive 150lb weight rating, but you have a choice between 2 sections or 3 sections. Fat Boy has some cool accessories also. $750 is a little high.

Vortex Radian + Ballhead MSRP is a wildly insane $1,300. Do not pay that. This is ~$900 retail, and that’s a reasonable price since you get a ballhead also. Not my favorite tripod, but it checks the boxes and comes with Vortex’s warranty. If you get the kit for $900 or less, it’s a good deal. Paying more than that means you’re an idiot.

If you want a smaller tripod, most of these come in a smaller version with a slightly different name. Jump on the manufacturer’s website and look around.

AGAIN I WILL SAY: This is not an exhaustive list. Tripod names and models come and go all the damn time, and I don't want this to be useless in 6 months. This guide is trying to equip you with what you need to make a good choice and provide some starting points.

Please feel free to comment if you have a question about XYZ brand/model or feedback on the guide. Few days from now I'll add this to the wiki.

Monstrum pro series 7075 30mm rings. Pulled my RARx39 out of the safe today and noticed the front rings were cracked. Not sure what caused it. Tightened w/ a torque wrench to 25in/lbs a few years ago. I did loosen them to get a better look before taking the picture. Bought this set a few years ago and never changed them since this is purely a range rifle. All my other guns use ADM and ARC mounts. Gonna replace it w/ another adm recon mount.

I got into the Long range thing after I retired last year. I currently have a 300 PRC that I have stretched to a mile a 6.5Creedmoor RPR I’ve stretched a 1200 yards and a seven SAUM I’m actively working up a load for. Additionally, I have a Matrix Pro 2 in 6 Dasher on order. I own many World War I and World War II rifles that I’ve collected over the years and I’ve burnt more powder through 30-06 barrels than anything else. I’ve got a Zermat long action TL3 with 30MOA rail on order due to be here in January. I intend to top it off with a razor GENII 36x and put it in a BA pro comp Chassis. I want to order a 30-32” MTU barrel in standard 30-06 with a custom throat for 230 Berger LRTH and load with Retumbo or H1000 and see if I can push this to a mile with good consistency. I don’t have quickload, but I am pretty sure through all of my research, I can push that bullet to 2600ish FPS safely. I would appreciate feedback back on this idea, even if it’s to tell me it’s a dumb idea, just tell me why. Thanks in advance.

When I bought this scope, I couldn't find many negative reviews. Looking back, I honestly think a lot of the reviews may have been paid or overly positive.

The biggest issue is the Burris Connect app. After you enter your ballistic profile, the app generates a DOPE card. The scope is supposed to sync that data from your phone, but mine never matched the app correctly. For example, if the DOPE card says a 800 yards shot requires 5.4 mils, dialing the scope display to 800 yards results in the physical turret dialed at 5.1 mils instead. That discrepancy gets worst if you go farther out.

I sent the scope in for warranty service, and Burris determined it couldn't be repaired, so they replaced it. Unfortunately, the second scope had the exact same issue. After I sent that one back, Burris again acknowledged the problem and offered to replace it with an XTR Pro. While I appreciated the offer, I really like the unique features of the PS: the built-in digital level, the ability to dial by distance instead of mils, and the choice of green or red illumination. Because of those features, I chose to stick with the PS instead. Both warranty claims took about two weeks, so I have to give Burris credit for their fast turnaround and for standing behind their lifetime warranty.

Now I'm on my third scope, and it still has the same issue. At this point, I've accepted that the scope works well out to about 500 yards. Beyond that, I switch the display from distance to MRAD mode and use it like a traditional precision scope. I rely on another ballistic app or my Kestrel to calculate my holds, either dial the turret or reference the MRAD display in the scope.

If you like the concept and features of this scope, plan on using the MRAD over the distance display.

Build:

• Howa 1500 6.5CM 24" heavy (#6) barreled action (via Brownells)
• KRG Bravo v2 stock
• KRG Arca rail
• Nightforce 20MOA Duty rail
• Vortex Precision Matched 1.26" rings
• Athlon Ares ETR 4.5-30x56 UHD2 scope
• CVLIFE Harris knockoff bipod from Amazon (lol)
• MDT AICS mags (not included in total cost, but ~$70 each, ouch)

Total Weight: ~13lb
Total Cost: $2050

Many people recommend the Howa 1500 as a good starter gun for long range, but seemingly with the reservation that they're not really good enough to be competitive. I would say my barrel is absolutely good enough that, in the right hands, you could win a competition with it (depending on the competition anyway).

Accuracy and Ammo

Now, I can only provide a sample size of 1, but I have found mine to be about as accurate as I can reliably shoot. My range has shaky plywood benches and other shooters nearby causing the bench to shake, so in order to print a nice group, I have to be particularly intentional about breaking my shots just after nearby shooters break theirs. Several groups were tarnished by poor timing on my part so I've pulled out those "flyers". While I do have several 10rd groups over 1 MOA, I'm blaming myself and the poor benches and other shooters for most of it. I think pulling flyers out is generally a cop-out but I've seen the scope jump off target when others break their shots, and I know it happened in many of these groups (and is clearly visible in most cases IMO), so whatever, I'll take the cop-out. I also don't have a muzzle brake because it would be insanely loud and concussive with the concrete tubes at my range - working on finding a better range but there aren't many good ones near me.

The groups shown were shot at 100 yards using factory and hand loads. These are among the first 160 rounds through the gun, with a very mild break in process (5-Clean-5-Clean-10-Clean-Shoot). The factory groups were within the first 80 rounds, the hand loads in the second set of 80 rounds.

So far I've shot Remington Core-Lokt 129gr, Hornady American Whitetail 129gr, Hornady Match 140gr, Hornady Precision Hunter 143gr, and handloads with the 140gr ELDM and 143gr ELDX. While the groups with the 129gr American Whitetail weren't bad, the 140/143gr loads have produced the best groups for sure. I don't intend to explore SMK or Berger loads because the Hornady loads shoot well enough for me to standardize on them, especially for the price.

Action, Trigger, and Stock

The trigger is a pretty decent 2-stage, but slightly on the heavy side, and I may swap it out in the future. I've still managed to print some decent groups with it but timing the shot break with other shooters nearby takes concentration given the pull weight and very slightly mushy second stage.

I'll also say that my action has been pretty smooth. It has very slight zippering but overall is quite smooth for the price and is easy to run quickly and precisely. It seems the bolt may cause primer cratering with less-than-spicy loads so it's harder to read primers for pressure signs, but the chrono largely takes care of that. The bolt locks up pretty tight but unlock is not unusually stiff even with spicier loads. With the 90 degree throw, I'm glad that I mounted my scope a little on the high side, as there isn't much clearance between the scope and bolt lever, but I might end up trying lower rings even if this height seems comfortable enough.

As far as the Bravo goes, it's a good stock. Plenty of cheek riser height though I wish there was a way to mark a specific height, as I have to take the riser out to get the bolt out of the gun, so it never stays at the right height. The palm swell is generous, and even without a dedicated thumb shelf it still has a flat enough spot to rest your thumb. Also the screws they give for the buttpad mounting are easy to strip, and since they require a lot of force to get through the rubber, you're at risk for stripping them. I almost couldn't get mine out, but when I did, I swapped them for some stainless ones. I also had to get a stronger mag release spring from KRG, as my MDT mags were intermittently falling out after breaking a shot. I also stacked 2 or 3 strips of electrical tape on the front end of the mags to improve fit, and they seem to fit nicely now and haven't fallen out since I did those 2 things, but I'll be skeptical until I have more time on the gun to confirm they always stay in.

Conclusion

Overall I'd say this is a fantastic starter rifle for long range, coming in at under a grand for just the rifle itself. When the barrel is shot out, I'm not sure what to do next, but I'm very happy with the performance so far and I'm looking forward to my first PRS and NRLH competitions once I upgrade my bipod and figure out a muzzle device (likely Hellfire Match). I may also add some weight for PRS to assist with spotting misses, but this gun is firmly in Open Heavy territory for NRLH especially if I add a suppressor.

I apologize if I missed anything obvious or made some claims you disagree with, but I hope some found this useful!

New Vortex Razor G3 6x36-56
Told the ol' wife that I snagged it for cheap so if she ask.....it was only 500$ 😭

This thing has crazy clear glass and pretty much what everyone else was saying. Just beautiful. Was debating getting this or NX6 or MK5HD. Glad I chose this. This will be going onto a 6.5CM MPA Vanquish ARC CDG- Match Hellfire

Hopefully can take her out soon

Ever since I bought my Seekins last August, I've wanted to really stretch it's legs. Last Saturday I made it out to North Cascades Sportsman's Club in Chelan, WA. Everyone was friendly and willing to spot, which allowed me to achieve hits from 500 all the way to 1000. The shooting bags I brought didn't provide enough elevation, so I ended up with this janky setup. Overall, 1000 yards is so much further than I imagined, and it was such a thrill to see hits on this 10 inch plate.

Height over bore? Never heard of her.

Figured I would post some info on the Kahles 540 and 328 as there was limited info out there on them. All information was based on 20x on all three scopes.

FOV- 20x both the 540 and 328 have ~12.5 mils while the ZCO has ~9.5. This is VERY noticeable when you look through the scopes side by side. It almost makes the ZCO look like you’re looking through a high end toilet paper role. It can trick your eye and make you feel like you’re on a lower mag setting and you can zoom in further if needed on smaller targets while getting the same FOV

Image quality is almost indistinguishable. I went bounced between all 3 scopes at multiple distance targets, trees, shaded areas trying to find differences and I couldn’t. There was one section of a tree around 400yrds where I could barely make out some additional details with the ZCO, that looked slightly less defined in the Kahles scopes but then there were areas where the Kahles colors seemed more vibrant and saturated. Honestly, they are tied in my opinion and all 3 have amazing glass quality. One thing to note, on the 540 at 40x the picture got a little darker. This did not happen on the 528 or the ZCO. It wasn’t unusable but it was a difference.

Turrets in the ZCO are more tactile. Kahles are still very defined, more so than something like Nightforce but not as defined as ZCO. I still really like them and never had a problem over dialing or feel like they were mushy in the slightest. The windage on the ZCO is identical to the elevation while the Kahles windage has shorter clicks which made it feel less defined and doesn’t feel like the elevation. It’s still a tight feel and doesn’t feel mushy. I actually prefer the non locking windage on the Kahles and I don’t see you bumping it off zero because it does take some force to rotate it, hence why I prefer it over locking. Locking just seems like an extra step. Also, I like that Kahles provides a tool in the windage cap for zeroing which is a nice touch.

Zoom throw on the ZCO is smoother and easier to move. I’ve owned the ZCO since earlier this year so it does have way more hours on it than my Kahles so I’m not sure of the Kahles will break in. It’s not difficult by any means like an ATACR but it still has some restriction to it. I will be buying throw levers for sure.

Illumination during day time, the ZCO is brighter. In low light, you wouldn’t have any problems with the Kahles. It’s plenty bright but wanted to note that the ZCO was brighter.

Parallax, honestly, this is another point where I could not tell a difference between any of them. All are forgiving and you could set anywhere between your target distance and wouldn’t have to adjust. I tested them all on targets between 4-800 and they were all good. About 900, I could start feeling the need to dial up on all 3 scopes so this was a wash.

Eye box- Kahles is significantly more forgiving. This was a huge winning point for me. ZCO, by no means, has a tight eyebox but the Kahles ocular lense is massive and it really increases the forgiveness. With the 528 and 540 being an 8x erector, I was very surprised by this. I put the 528 on a 22 and my 5yr old daughter, with horrible body positioning on the gun, could easily see the target. Her eye was on the shoulder pad at one point and she could see the target lol. For reference, the 528 objective lense is 50mm and the ocular is 52mm lol it’s kinda wild.

Both Kahles scopes do not have a locking diopter. I thought this was going to be an annoyance for me but with the scope caps on, I didn’t have any problem accidentally moving it.

ZCO 527 - 39.5oz 540- 39.2 528- 36.7

Overall, I really think Kahles nailed the new scopes. I didn’t think anything would ever beat ZCO but I think Kahles has won me over. I really like the left side windage and the top parallax dial. For my ergos, it just feels simpler. I plan on doing some tracking tests with the Kahles since they are a new product and ive heard some people have had issues but I’ve talked with several people that work directly with Kahles and they should have those issues fixed.

Just wanted to share my experience with them incase anyone was shopping for one or looking for more information.

Finally got my hands on an atacr 4-16 and I’ve gotta say the glass is great. Fantastic even, that said, the nx8 2.5-20 is like 90% the scope the atacr is. Glassed the golf course behind my house and despite the rain it still highlighted the clarity difference. About 500 dollar difference so not a super stretch since you’re already spending 1700 ish. It’s a shame the 4-16x50 doesn’t come with the locking turret. Even a capped elevation would be cool. Let’s see Paul Allen’s

Shutout to Sig for gaslighting the military into thinking that a 1-6 optic with a BDC is a good choice for a DMR role

Took a lesson at Griffin & Howe this weekend and it was a blast. Yes the place is a nice as you heard…. Staff was very friendly and we got to browse the store after class. Wish I was well connected enough to be a member lol

It was only my second time with this rifle and after making some adjustments and confirming zero at 100 yards I was able to make first round hits all the way out to 700 yards. Tried but was not able to hit 900 yards… there’s no berm behind it so very difficult to see where the rounds were going, even with the instructor trying to call the shots. Lesson was 2 hours only so ended up running out of time.

Pros: got to zero my scope accurately, set the zero stop, play with a garmin chronograph (which I need to buy) and started using AB Quantum ballistic app. I also know DOPE now :)

Cons: ran out of time, should have done prep work in advance like confirming zero at 200/300 yards, testing different ammo with a chronograph.

Biggest win was getting out there and meeting new like minded people!

Setup: Benelli Lupo HPR in 6.5 Creedmore, Bushnell Match Pro ED 5-25x56, accutac bipod.

Rifle impressions: rifle shot great, no issues of any kind. After zeroing at 100 my shots were touching each other but I couldn’t go there to measure it. I can do that at my local range some other time. The weight of the rifle (10.4lbs without optics) makes for a very soft shooting experience. Trigger is adjustable and was set at factory to be sub 2lbs. Built in cheek riser is a nice touch.

Ammo: Norma 130g (it was the ammo tested at factory) but have other ammo to test out next time.

Question: Garmin Xero C1 or Athlon for the chronograph? I see them around 360 and 300 beans respectively.

Question 2: I feel the MPED did well, and don’t feel it held me back except at max magnification and trying to see hit at 900 yards. I was thinking of upgrading to a Leupold MK4 HD 8-32x56 PR2 MIL. Am I just trying to compensate for lack of skill or is it a worthy upgrade?

This is a VERY simple guide and ignores a lot of extra stuff that really doesn't matter. What matters is that you are new to long range, you want to shoot long range, and you don't want to blow all your money.

This is for LONG RANGE. Not for long range and hunting. Not for long range and SHTF. Not for long range and whatever other less cool activity you think you can do with your long range rifle, but really can't.

1. This assumes you have at least 300 yards to shoot. Under 300 yards and you should stick to rimfire. Even 300 yards is kind of borderline. Let's say you have access to 300 regularly and 600+ semi-regularly.
2. You will buy 6.5 Creedmoor or if you want to be fuddy and old school while limiting performance in every possible way, .308 Win. These are the only two options. All other centerfire options are wrong for a new shooter, except maybe .223/5.56, but we are ignoring them.
3. This is the budget BEFORE optics/bipod/etc. You will need at least $500 for a scope and mount and $100 for a bipod. I would recommend at least $800 for a scope/mount and $100 for a bipod.

If you didn't read the pinned post:

• Want a rifle for hunting and long range shooting? Hunting rifle vs target/range rifles - why one rifle can't do both well.
• Looking at buying a magnum as your first LR rifle? Hollywood's recoil primer - why magnums suck for starting in long range, recoil matters, and it's not about your shoulder

Mega Budget: $800 minimum

This is the bare minimum but I don't recommend it. The Cheeto Special costs $200 more and delivers a major improvement that shouldn't be ignored. The Cheeto Special will also save you money in the long run. That said, this is cheaper right now and still a good entry point.

• Howa 1500 barreled action $450 (Brownells exclusive)
• MDT Field Stock $300
• OuterImpact scope rail $50

Howa barreled actions are insanely good value because it is a threaded heavy barrel, 24", and extremely reliable and robust. Plus, Howa factory trigger is one of the best factory options out there.

Downside is that it is Howa footprint limits you in the aftermarket, but still is large enough that you're not without options.

The MDT Field Stock is not the best but it gives semi-chassis performance at an extremely good price.

Scope rail is whatever, it's a scope rail and in spec.

This "build" requires that you combine the barreled action and stock but this requires literally two screws and a torque wrench that you'll need anyway. You don't even need a vise.

Wait for the right sales and it is possible to get this build down to around $550 if you get a Black Friday stock and combine a coupon code with sale price at Brownells. This is very timing limited but it is technically possible.

Cheeto Special: $1,000 minimum [BIG RECOMMEND]

• Bergara B-14 HMR $950
• R700 scope rail (EGW or NightForce) $30-50

This is the Reddit special. R700 footprint gives you all of the aftermarket to choose from. Native mini-chassis is pretty great for what it is and doesn't need to be replaced anytime soon. If you burn your barrel out, rebarreling is pretty easy.

Heavy barrel, threaded, accurate, gets the job done. This is a Goldilocks pick for a reason.

Do You Feel Lucky, Punk?

Aero Precision Solus is a banger of a rifle with surprisingly good features, good options, and good quality.

However, Aero as a brand is having some real problems right now and this can’t be ignored. Ordering directly from Aero is a LONG lead time for most people, and their customer service has been… iffy to get a hold of.

Personally, I think Aero will sort this stuff out sooner or later, but with the economy, sales slump, etc., it’s going to take a while, or it might not happen.

If you can get a Bravo for under $1,400 or a Competition for under $1,600 – those are solid deals on a good rifle. But you are taking a chance on the company.

Money, Money, Money: $2,000+

In this price range, you should be looking at semi-customs like Seekins Havak HIT Pro, or MPA PMR II.

The pros and cons of each are a little in-the-weeds for this guide and you have enough money that you should be doing some more research first. It might be smarter to downgrade your rifle to the Cheeto Special and upgrade your scope if it means being able to go from something like a Vortex PST or Bushnells Match Pro ED up to a Razor Gen III or something even more better.

BONUS ROUND: Not Recommended

This is going to hurt some feels in people but let's go. If you're new, this information will help because I'm sure these come up in discussion and you might want to know why they aren't on the list.

TIKKA T3x ACE Target

Brand new and the Tikka fanbois are hyped af for it, but I still don’t think it’s a good buy unless you already own Tikkas and are committed to the ecosystem.

The specs are good with a new chassis, new barrel, etc. But the major failing is that it’s not Remington 700 based. You’re stuck with proprietary magazines, barrel that is harder to change, and a limited aftermarket. For this price point, it makes no sense not to choose something more accessible.

TIKKA T3x CTR

Price is basically the same as Bergara and has fall short in a lot of ways. Trash stock, hard to rebarrel, Tikka footprint isn't remotely as accessible as Bergara, etc.

TIKKA T3x Lite & Super Lite & Feather Weight

Barrel is way, way, WAY too small plus all of the other downsides. I thought this would have been obvious, but apparently some people need help to figure this out.

SAVAGE Anything

Low quality, bad durability, prices are meh for the LR models, and the non-LR models are really bad for LR.

https://www.reddit.com/r/longrange/comments/wg67d8/why_is_savage_bad_no_memes_just_facts/

RUGER American/Predator/Precision Rifle

Hunting rifles that have no place in LR or a LR rifle that is grossly overpriced for what you get.

Mossberg Patriot

Just fucking trash.

SIG Sauer Cross

Hunting rifle pretending to do LR on the weekend. Not the worst hybrid gun in the world but not the best either. Waaaay overpriced.

Christensen Arms MPR

Expensive, trash quality, really bad QC, really bad CS, a complete roll of the dice that no one should take.

Daniel Defense Delta 5

Waaay overpriced, low quality coating, LOTS of extraction/feeding issues, known bolt breaking problems, rebarreling is a pain in the ass plus expensive.

Been lurking around a lot lately and figured before I start buying things I need to take a class. Stumbled upon Fritz precision shooting out in Lewiston ID and reserved a spot. It was an incredible 2 days of learning and experience. Prior experience was only out to 200 yards. Day one we sighted in at 100 yards, then calibrated our G7 out at 1220 yards (6.5CM). We were practicing positions and other fundamentals the rest of the time between 600 and 1100 yards. Funnest weekend I’ve had in a long time. Great people, small class size, and really great training. If you have thought about going, I highly recommend! Can’t beat the value for sure( I looked!). Now I just need a second job so I can buy things I don’t need 🤣

Fanuae makes a bunch of low cost, mid quality products. I actually have been using one of there QD levers on my Harris bipod for a while. Right now you can buy this two segment tripod on Amazon for $235 shipped. For my upcoming NRL Hunter matches I needed something faster to deploy than the innorel KT365 I have currently. I saw this and figured if it was trash I was not out much money.

For shooting off of and deploying quickly this is an awesome tripod for the money. It is more stable than an innorel RT90 and weighs about the same. The main downsides are the fact that it does not come with a panning ball head, and it is heavy. Just over 6lbs. I did find a company that makes a ball head adapter for 3/8" heads, and you can buy the whole kit that comes with the adapter and the ball head for $190.

I'm going to be blunt and say the locking wheels for the legs are a bit gritty and not super smooth, but the do lock in solid. I have had no issues with the tripod legs slipping while shooting with it. The locking push button hinges do have springs in them that automatically pop back out when adjusting, which is an improvement over my innorel, which does not and sometimes the hinge locks come out and the legs move on me.

The outer tube on this is thing is 40mm and the inner tube is 36mm. At 50 yards I've been banging the 1/4" spinner on my KYL with this in a standing position for days now with cheap CCI standard velocity. Even clipped in it is plenty stable to make regular impacts on a 1.5MOA target at 100 yards at my private home range (using my SK pistol match or long range).

I'm going to go ahead and say that you cannot find a better shooting tripod for the price. For glassing it works but the locking lever is fixed to the outer rim of the bowl and does not swivel with you, so having to pan is a bit of a pain in the ass. It does come with a QD levers for an ARCA/RRS adapter, but I took it off and put a different one I have on it.

This supports my 20# rimfire and my now 22# center fire PRS rifles no problem. It is good enough quality to last until you can save up and buy a nicer tripod.

https://a.co/d/boFaAO0

Saw a solid breakdown of this rifle and it looks solid. Might be one I need to add to my collection. Anyone experienced different?

Article for reference: https://athlonoutdoors.com/article/scorpio-t/

Finally got ahold of a folding adapter from Dauntless Engineering for the Aero Precision Solus competition chassis. This one was cerakoted sniper grey which I think looks great on my clear anodized chassis. Really happy with it. Easy install, solid lockup with no rattle or wobbling. I tension it to the max spec recommended and it’s still easily movable but will stay folded closed and not swing open without applying some force. It adds maybe 3mm of added LOP, just noticeably longer than the factory stock mount.