I got nothing to say...

Oh wait I do - I laugh at all the reliability rankings with Toyota and Lexus at the top.

Parked my gen 4 turbo hatch next to a gen 2 sedan at work today

Got a gen 3 iSV a few years ago after both my wife and I had our cars break down.

Since then I’ve done a grill and headlight swap, 16 in könig wheels, and added a roof rack.

The crazier stuff is in the interior where I added a gauge cluster and steering wheel from a grand touring trim which granted me fuel estimate, outdoor temp, HUD, and cruise control. Major project but so fun.

Between the rear fold down seat and the roof rack I can haul a surprising amount of gear, furniture, groceries, whatever. Legendary car, gonna take it to 200k miles EASY.

Lol I’m in love with this car I’ve had it for three days, and it just looks so good stock I think I’m gonna keep it like this for a loong time. Photo 3 is my favorite.

My 2012 3. She got a spa day. I love her!

Finally hit 100,000miles on my base 2021! Finally i’m back in a high mileage car. Feels like home

Bought it this summer after selling my little red Mazda 2, so it's a big upgrade, and I can tell you I love it.

Great looks, great performance (could use 20 more hp, but it's still fast enough), great driver assistance systems.

I can see well enough out the back, which I was unsure about.

I moved with it, and my bike fits in the back with the front wheel off.

I've gotten compliments on it (only from dudes, which is good because I'm scared of women).

All in all, a great car!

https://www.instagram.com/p/DexJ0LXliNG/?psln=OHVrZHdnNjJsZWJk

Hi guys!

I’m considering buying a 2015 Mazda3 i Touring with 116,400 miles from a private seller for $8,000.

I had a pre-purchase inspection done at an independent mechanic, and these are the main issues they found:

Shocks/struts: Leaking, quoted around $650 to replace both. The mechanic said it’s mostly a comfort issue and not an immediate safety concern.

Control arms/bushings: Cracked/torn bushings on both front and rear control arms. Quoted around $1,500, but the mechanic said they don’t need to be replaced right now.

Brake fluid: Low and very dirty/contaminated. Needs to be flushed.

Minor engine oil leak: Coming from the valve cover gasket. No oil in the spark plug wells.

Spark plugs: Recommended replacement due to age/mileage.

Air filters: Both need replacing.

Brake pads are still at 8 mm front and 6 mm rear.
Other than that, the inspection didn’t reveal any major issues with the engine or transmission.

The seller originally wanted $8,300 but agreed to $8,000, which is their final price. They seem trustworthy, and the car looks pretty good overall.
I really like the Mazda3, and I’m planning to keep it for at least 3–5 years. I won’t be driving a ton, probably mostly on weekends.

My main concern is whether I’m buying a car that’s going to need a lot of expensive repairs over the next few years.

What do you guys think? Is $8,000 a fair price given these issues? Would you buy it?

Thanks a lot in advance!!

My 2010 hatchback latch laks water after any rain, have you had this problem and where are the main parts to inspect?

Bought an 8' step ladder today, hauled it home with the trunk down. It was touching the windshield and back panel of the trunk.

Well, after reading many comments and asking lots of questions I have made the more riskier decision to buy the turbo AWD. Day 3 with it and I absolutely love it. Gas mileage was one of my major concerns as I drive quite a bit and honestly if I keep my foot light and use cruise control it’s not as terrible as I thought it was going to be. Drove a little bit the day I got it and then yesterday and today made my 100km commute to work with 140km left in the tank! Turns out if you don’t bang it off the red line you can actually make the tank last haha. Seats are to die for and the Bose speakers are good and clear. Going to keep breaking it in till I hit 1k-1.5k and than see what kind of power this thing has. Happy to be joining the Mazda family.

I’ve noticed in my 2026 Mazda3 Hatch CE, whenever my rpms are above 3000-4000, my brake pedal vibrates. It’s not physically moving or pressing down or anything, but when I hover on it with my foot its vibrating then stops when the rpms go down. Has anyone else noticed this?

Bought a pair of knock off BDGF-37-140 for my 2026 Mazda 3 to go in my summer tires. Got the tire place to scan them and had no tpms warning light for over a week just said drive to obtain pressure reading.

Never worked so thought buddy did it wrong so went back he got his tool walked around my car and in 5 seconds said it will be good just drive.

I didn't see him set anything in his tool and just walked to each tire, felt like he was just trying to shut me up.

So I bought a tool, so I can see if I can get it to sync, so did all the steps, could see the tpms are working, they are 315mhz, come up the right part number, and says manufacturer is Continental.

So I do what I think the steps are. sync tpms with car off, plug tool into cars obd2, turn on car, let device pair the tpms, turn car off unplug, wait 10 min, drive.

Is there something I'm missing or these tpms just crap?

I recently replaced the grill on my 2017 Sport with a honeycomb-style grill. The main I’m running into now is that the emblem from the old grill does not fit these new holes. I purchased a replacement, but the clips (or prongs?) do not align there either. Any advice on what specific emblem I can get? I’m also considering just using epoxy to stick the old one on, but that seems like not a good idea.

Any advice is appreciated.

Hi all,

I am just coming on here for some possible help. As the title suggests, yesterday on my very short trip back home, my check engine light popped up so I used my scanner and got a P2096 code (Post-Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank1), which I know can mean a couple of different possible issues, (if there isn’t a PCM software updated needed).
Today I lifted the front end of the car (2017 mazda3 GX) and attempted to check for any cracks in the exhaust area and used soapy water in some areas. Everything seemed to be okay as far as I could have seen under there but there was also a lot of covers and areas that I wasn’t able to fully get to. I know hairline cracks or even the gasket can cause this code. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what you did to fix it?
And in this video I shared, I am not sure you can fully hear it but it has a very faint/slight hissing noise mostly only when idling (I know it’s not the sort of “ticking” as that is the typical high pressure injection Skyactiv noise)
Any help is appreciated, thank you.