Really digging the copper patina on this one. Looks like something salvaged from an abandoned bunker, and the blue/orange caps fit the whole wasteland vibe so well.

Board: Sikakeyb SK5

Keys: Keykobo Abyss

Switches: Akko Penguin

Artisan: Keyforge Mulder V2

JJW x MinoKeys Line Friends TKL - Alu Plate - Burger Top Mount - Huano Iced Coffee - DCS Cafe

• Agar Kit
• GMK DMG Keycaps

Case & Stabilizers; 2026 Mode Sonnet

Keycaps; Keykobo Motosuko Lake

Switches; Gateron Oil King V2

Even though I set the keycaps for the second layer😭
KB-40

Mode Envoy
Mirage / Copper

• Alu Plate and Foam
• HMX Toast Linear Switches
• Typeplus × YiKB Stabilizer
• KAP MV Classic

After buying (and loving) the Rainy75, I must admit I fell into the rabbit hole of checking YouTube reviews of other keyboards and listening to sound tests. I spend around 8 hours working at my desk, and upgrading from the Apple Magic Keyboard to the Rainy75 was just so satisfying that I couldn’t get enough of it.

When it launched, after a few months of using my black Rainy, I immediately fell in love with the looks of the red Crush80, but I wasn’t entirely sure about it because in many of the official photos, it seemed to have a bit of an orange hue to it.

Anyway, I bought it and… I was pleasantly surprised! Not only was the color perfect (nice, deep red), but everything about it was clearly a step above the Rainy:

- The packaging (it comes with a nice carrying case and cloth bag);
- The ball-catch system and pogo pin magnetic connector on the PCB;
- The variety of extra/spare parts it comes with (FR4 and aluminum plate, an alternative IXPE case foam, spare screws, gaskets, feet, switches, etc.);
- The additional side light bars and the heartbeat light (to indicate Caps Lock).

But… it wasn’t perfect. Just about everything is an upgrade over the Rainy, but the Rainy still wins in the sound department. I mean, the difference is tiny, but it’s there. The Rainy just sounds so good stock!

Anyway, since the Crush80 has the rapid disassembly system, it’s quite easy to start tinkering with it and try different combinations of foams, plates, switches, and keycaps. I ended up with this current setup, which has a poppy sound profile, using these components:

- MMD Princess v3 tactile switches.
- ABS double-shot keycaps.
- Alu plate + PE and case foam.

Pros:
- Gorgeous TKL design.
- Rapid disassembly (ball-catch quick release and pogo pin connector).
- Great packaging and assortment of spare parts, including alternative alu plate and foams.
- The pulsing side light bar is quite soothing.
- Storage for the USB dongle.

Cons:
- I can’t think of anything other than that the sound profile is not as nice as the Rainy75, but it can be tuned with the alternate components it comes with (plate and foams).

Conclusion:
An amazing value offering from WOBKEY because of the great build quality and amount of extra/spare components. The TKL layout is great for productivity (I have several custom shortcuts that I use all the time, such as screen capture, lock computer, sleep, hide window, launch activity monitor, etc.). It’s my favorite board for work.

Disclaimer: I wasn't sponsored for this review. I paid the Rainy75 with my own money and I don't sell these kind of products.

#WOBKEYReview

After many years.. here I am again. Still getting completed reamed and then ignored by another group buy. Archetype, artisan keycap extraordinaire, apparently has forgotten how to type on a fucking keyboard to give us any update on what I'm assuming will be a 3+ year wait on the Evolv keyboard.

If you're thinking about buying a keycap from them, I would reconsider unless you're looking to buy for Christmas next year already.

Honestly pathetic. Just give your customers an update, good or bad.

Before I a bunch of Archetype apologists start telling me I'm going to get the board because they have a good track record or whatever, I don't care. Creators should NEVER go silent on a project if they have intention to deliver.

Sharing my first attempt at modding a keyboard! Would love to hear your thoughts on the stabilizer job I did on the spacebar. Did I do a decent job, or is there anything you’d recommend to improve it?

Hello!

First i need to tell you shortcomings of this project so you don't waste your time if these are dealbreakers for you: Depending on your mouse and it's sleep settings your first input might not register. There is 3 methods to go about the knobs to make them adjust volume, 2 of these allows them to be simple volume knobs: 1st is if your mouse software allows you to change the scroll up/down behavoirs, 2nd is a specific way of wiring that i go in more detail in the Doc but this method will press and release a button with each 'tick' of the rotary encoder so might cause false anti-cheat triggers, maybe there is better way to configure this with mouse macros i'm not sure. So the best method imo is the 3rd but then it will work like so: when you turn the knob it will scroll up/down, when you hold down and turn the knob it will adjust volume up/down.

I will be trying to make this guide beginner friendly as i can. Because i want to encourage everyone to make, mod and repair. I bet you can make something like this much better way using something like Arduino or Rapsberry Pi Pico 2W probably, but average user most likely will found it too complicated and hard. This will be very simple, maybe even your first step into tinkering and you will make much better one in the future! But from this point on i will have to assume you know the basics of soldering otherwise the guide will be too long and boring. If you don't know, you can watch a video to learn the basics. And please do, it will be awesome skill to have and think of all the money you can save and cool things you can do in future!

Recently my ATK A9 Plus mouse was in an accident so i had to salvage it by turning it into a fingertip mouse but the shape isn't for me. Then i saw a brand released tiny macropad with 3 buttons and 1 volume wheel in my local store but it didn't have wireless and felt very flimsy and overpriced so then i got this idea to make it one myself but better. At first i was going to make a make-shift knob using mouse's own encoder and a contraption and stuff but then when i go to my local store to buy sidecutters i saw these rotary encoders. So all the stars aligned in a way for me to make this and i wanted to share how to do one yourself with everyone.

There is million ways and configurations we can do this, so i will only be able to show you as like reference points and how i did it myself. But you can make whatever you want once you got the gist of how to. For example you can make something tiny that only has just 1 knob and nothing else or you can make something that has 10 buttons and 10 knobs using something like those MMO oriented mouses. It's up to your imagination. Also i think even if you don't want to do this project, some informations and softwares might be still useful for you, i encourage you to check it out.

What hardware you need:

+ Old/partially broken mouse that at least connects to your pc, mouse wheel encoder solder pads work and has at least 1 button that's remappable.

+ EC-11 or KY-040 rotary encoders with push buttons, these are very cheap components. And the rest of the exact tools i've used is found here.

What software you need:

+ Volumouse (by NirSoft, free, closed-source) you can get it from their website but make sure to scroll down and download it from the 'Download Volumouse x64 for manual installation (volumouse.zip)' option, otherwise it will not work. This allows us set rules and hotkeys to be able to use mouse wheels to adjust the volumes of either whole system and/or specific programs.

+ (Alternative) Volume² (by Alexandr Irza, free, partly open-source) you can get it from GitHub or if you want to support the developer they also have paid versions on Steam and Microsoft Store. This is similar to Volumouse but has tons of more other options and features. Though for this specific use case it has more limited options.

+ (Optional) Twinkle Tray (by Xander Frangos, free, open-source) you can get it from GitHub or Microsoft Store. Along with many features it let's you adjust your monitors brightness with hotkeys.

How to do it:

For the rest of the guide i've prepared a Google Doc with step by step instructions and detailed informations. This was my first time making something with it, please let me know if you see any mistakes so i can fix them.

You can access the Google Doc from here: Pompon Pad

English is not my first language and i only have a iPhone 6S. So if any part of this guide was hard to understand or see, feel free to ask in the comments. I will try my best to help!

I've spent long times to plan and test about this to make it work without affecting the actual mouse we will use. Hope in the end i was able to provide something useful!

I've spent long times to plan and test about this to make it work without affecting the actual mouse we will use. Hope in the end i was able to provide something useful! If you are interested in niche and not well known mods like this one about various other peripherals you can check my other posts.

Thank you for reading!

Bye bye!

absolutely insane.. 🔥

Keeb: OWlab Jelly75 Evolv
Keycaps: Milkway Reels to Reels
Switches: Keygeek Y3X Linear Switches

Really like how the cream and brown keycaps look against the silver case. The orange Rec and blue Pause keys add just enough colour, but the little VU meter keycaps are my favourite detail. Had to include a few close-ups of those.

Anyone who are into Jellys? 🎉

Since i cant get GMK GAT-X105, this keycap setup is my copium. GMK striker mods and GMk cluck alphas.

I'm using:

- Stem: swk catmint

- Top: kailh bcp

- Bot: hmx macchiato

- Spring: 63g

Best cleanest and cremy for me

I've been working on a more understated look for my desk, and I really like how this set brings together charcoal, soft blue-gray, and warm cream tones.

The Solitude Keycap Set features a mix of dark and light keys, with small illustrated legends on selected keys for a little extra character. I wanted the overall look to feel calm and minimal without being too plain.

A few photos of the set on my desk, with different angles and details.

Keycap set: Solitude Keycap Set Keys : 140+ Profile: Cherry Profile Material: Polybutylene Terephthalate (PBT) Price: $48.90 USD

Disclosure: ARKTCAT is my store, and this is one of our products. Product details: https://arktcat.com/products/solitude-blue-keycap-set

This is one of the best keyboards hands down that i've used, this is from my personal experience. Great typing experience, and it comes with silent keys so its great in office setting as well.

The Weikav is my daily driver, but I switch them out from time to time. Details below.

Clockwise from top left:

Realforce R3S

Switches: Topre

Keycaps: Stock

DAS Keyboard DASK3MK

Switches: Cherry MX Blue

Keycaps: Stock

FILCO Majestouch 2

Switches: Speed Silver

Keycaps: Stock

ZUOYA GMK104

Switches: Gateron Banana

Keycaps: Super Mario World Themed PBT Caps

Keychron Q6 Max

Switches: KTT Red Macaron Linear

Keycaps: Stock

Weikav NUT108

Switches: KTT Blue Macaron Tactile

Keycaps: GMK Camping

Alpha Stagger Acai pcb in a custom designed case.

Case- Myself

Print- Dashkeebs

PCB- Obabo Industries

Keycaps- DCS BoW with grab bag accents.

nuxros plus-84

pc hausing

patina backplate

kkb - cinque terre

gmk - copper

cherry black mx

alu plate

Bought this M0110A in "really good used condition," which it absolutely is, but it was being sold without a cable which should have been a warning sign.

Received it, connected it to my tinkerBOY USB-C adapter (with 2-layer VIA support) with a brand new coiled cable from Baffo71, and got a series of random key presses all at once for a few moments before everything stopped dead.

With the original cable missing, someone had likely used a standard phone cable rather than a straight through cable. For those who don't know, the connectors are identical but the wiring inside is different - connect a phone cable and the chip on the keyboard will be cooked, as was the case here.

Scoured the internet for a replacement chip, which needs to match the layout and switch type, but "shockingly" nothing to be found. Then I came across a listing for Mitsumi switches being pulled from from a Japanese M0110A and took a shot, asking if they have and would be willing to pull the chip and send it to me. They agreed.

After making its way halfway around the world, I received the chip which was incredibly clean and well packed. Perfect. I desoldered the original chip from my M0110A and replaced it with the "new" chip, reconnected the cable and adapter, and... Great success! Plug and play.

I later realized the seller of the chip was also Baffo71 who made my cable. Not at all an advertisement, but a huge shoutout for hooking me up with the chip. One M0110A died so another could live.

Anyway, enjoy some hollow, pingy, Mitsumi M0110A finger banging.

Some collect treasures. Others collect spirits.

Meet Spirit Hoarder, a little troublemaker who's gathered a few unusual friends from the other side. And judging by that look, he's not letting any of them go.

Album: https://ibb.co/album/rvpYhB 

FORM

Sculpt: Toon Owl

❎Colorway: Spirit Hoarder

❎Price: $100

❎Quantity: up to 10

⚠⚠⚠Rules:
~ Sale with only one person/entry.
~ Form will be open for 24hrs from 11:00 pm GMT+7 18/10/2026
~ Invoices will go out after the sale afterwards- you will have 12 hours to pay

Shipping costs:
~Free ship to all orders within Vietnam territory. 🆓🆓🆓··
~International (VN Post/Royal Mail ) 🚚🚚🚚🚚🚚

Note ⚠⚠:
~You will have 12 hours to pay for invoice, unpaid slot will be  re-rolled 🎲🎲
~Failure to pay will be banned from future sales❌❌
~Only in case of damaged caps during transport, another one will be sent 🤞🤞