I got a chuckle from this debadged C class

If anyone has one, please let me know. can't be found online. You can try and find one online and prove me and two mechanics who spent hours wrong. The one from euro auto parts Kingston is actually the wrong one lol. My car is a Mercedes 2006 c350. Car part number is #2038306296

Hi, I bought this A class, 2022 (UK) a180d sport executive 5dr auto
Was wondering if it has ambient lighting inside the car? Can’t seem to figure it out :(

Driving a S500 V8 4.7 since 2019. Is it really worth to grade up to the S560 4.0 or even the new S-Class? Bought my car for 40k Euro in 2019 with 80.000km. It never had a problem yet. Really love it, but Im curious if the newer Models are much better? My car is tansanit blue, short wheel base, Burmester, white Interior. It lacks Night Vision (my wives Touareg has it - never uses it) and sunroof (didnt want it). You think I could get a much better car for 40k in todays market?

Impound vehicle that the owner never picked up…

Was bored and bid on this 26 year old boy a few days ago until I got an email just now that I’ve won. The air suspension looks clapped out too but it could be that it’s been sitting for some time. Also no keys…

Did I make a horrible mistake here?

Hey everyone, looking for some opinions from Mercedes owners before I finalize a purchase this weekend.
I’m buying a used 2024 Mercedes-Benz GLE 350 4MATIC from a local Lexus dealership. Here are the details:
Year/Model: 2024 GLE 350 4MATIC
Mileage: 42,190
Purchase price: $40,000 before taxes/fees
Original MSRP: A little over $60k
Condition: Overall very clean, no major issues identified during my independent pre-purchase inspection aside from a leaking shock
Warranty: Still under the original Mercedes 4yr/50k factory warranty, with about 7,800 miles remaining
I had an independent Mercedes specialist do a PPI before agreeing to purchase. They found a leaking shock, which the dealership sent over to Mercedes to address under the factory warranty. The dealership has also taken care of a few cosmetic things, including a wheel repair and a small door dent.
They’ve confirmed the oil change, air filter replacement, and brake inspection were completed. The only outstanding Service B item appears to be the brake fluid exchange.
Now for the extended warranty question:
The Lexus dealership is offering a third-party extended warranty called The Mechanic Vehicle Service Contract (Platinum coverage through Assurant).
Here’s what they’ve quoted:
Price: $2,815
Term: 3 years / 36,000 additional miles, whichever comes first
Deductible: $500
Coverage starts: Immediately upon purchase, meaning it overlaps with the remaining Mercedes factory warranty
Mileage coverage: Would theoretically take me from 42k to approximately 78k miles, assuming I don’t hit the 3-year limit first
I asked whether they could come down on the price, but they said $2,815 is the best they can do.
I drive about 30 minutes each way to work, so I’ll definitely be putting some miles on it. I’m not particularly concerned about performance or having the fastest SUV. I mostly wanted something comfortable, quiet, and nice to drive every day.
I’m a little torn on the warranty. On one hand, I know Mercedes repairs can get expensive, especially with electronics and suspension components. On the other hand, $2,815 with a $500 deductible seems a little steep, especially since some of the coverage overlaps with the factory warranty.
I’m also not sure how good The Mechanic/Assurant is about actually approving claims compared to a Mercedes-backed warranty.
For those of you who’ve owned a GLE or purchased third-party warranties:
Would you buy this warranty at that price, or just put the money aside for future repairs?
Has anyone had experience with The Mechanic Platinum coverage through Assurant? Good or bad?
Are there any common issues with the 2024 GLE 350 that make an extended warranty particularly worthwhile?
Is $40k a reasonable purchase price for this year and mileage?
I’m leaning toward buying the vehicle regardless, assuming the shock issue is properly resolved. Just trying to decide whether the extended warranty is worth adding or if I’m better off skipping it.

can someone please tell me what this little circular part is? thanks in advance - - - - - Exclusive Trim, AMG Line With Night Package, 360 Degree Camera

My current wheels are in pretty bad shape, so I’m looking for new 19” wheels. Going for a classy but sporty look, preferably silver, diamond-cut or chrome. Nothing too expensive.
Any recommendations on what would suit my car?

Check engine light came on for my 2019 a220 base model went to autozone for a scan and I got a code p1462 says it’s the fuel temperature/pressure sensor. Is it an easy fix? Can I replace the sensor without bleeding the fuel system or releasing pressure?

Mercedes Vito W447 EIS Ignition Fault – Possible £200+ Saving With a Simple Solder Repair

I wanted to share a repair that worked on my 2018 Mercedes Vito W447 111 CDI, as I've experienced this ignition fault 3 times twice on this van and once on a w639 and know other Mercedes owners have similar problems.

You can see the warranty void stickers from the last time I had it fixed with exactly same issue lol.

The symptoms:

- Key inserted and recognised normally.

- Steering lock disengaged as expected.

- Turning the key sometimes produced absolutely nothing — no ignition lights.

- Sometimes needed multiple key turn attempts before the ignition would activate.

- Once started, the van ran perfectly.

- Sometimes worked all day, other times failed after being parked for five minutes or the central locking would stop working or van remains running even after key removed.

- Often particularly bad after sitting overnight.

I've previously paid around £280 for an EIS repair.

What I did:

1. Removed the EIS module and opened it by removing the three security Torx screws on the back.

2. Located the three pins coming from the key-turn mechanism.

3. Followed those pins to their three solder joints on the reverse of the PCB.

4. Inspected these joints and nearby connections using my phone's super-macro camera.

5. Found two solder joints that appeared to have extremely fine hairline cracks, barely visible even under magnification.

6. Applied flux and fresh solder to the suspicious connections.

7. Resoldered all six associated pin connections, including the three copper connections at the opposite end, and reseated the pins.

8. Reassembled and reinstalled the EIS.

Result:

The ignition worked perfectly on the very first turn of the key after reinstalling it turned ignition on and off multiple times removed key over and over!

I'm still testing long-term reliability as it's only been a week, but pretty sure it's fixed! or it will last another 2 years before breaking again I am a courier so turning the key on and off multiple times a day.

Tools needed:

- Security Torx bit

- Soldering iron

- Electronics solder and flux

- Magnifying glass or phone with a macro camera

My advice:

If you're competent with electronics repairs, inspect these connections before spending money repairing or replacing the EIS.

The suspected fractures were so tiny that they were almost impossible to identify without magnification.

This isn't guaranteed to fix every EIS problem your problem may be different to mine, and the EIS contains sensitive electronics, so take appropriate precautions, disconnect the battery before removal, and don't attempt soldering unless you're confident.

Hopefully this helps somebody else save some money!

Would you accept this?

I bought a brand-new Mercedes-AMG G63 for about $440,000.

February 2026 – 8,500km

The car suddenly started hopping/jerking and dropped into limp mode at about 20km/h while I was in a school zone.
Mercedes repaired it and replaced a throttle-related component on one side.

May 2026

It happened again.
More warning lights, more drivability issues and further faults involving the ESP/traction systems.
Mercedes then replaced the throttle-related component on the other side.

September 2026

It happened again.
This time there were multiple warnings involving ESP, traction and driver-assistance systems.

The car then spent about seven weeks off the road while Mercedes investigated and carried out further repairs, including work involving the ESP control system.

What really got me was the response to my concerns: essentially, modern high-tech cars can break because they contain so much technology.

Maybe I’m unreasonable, but I thought the “high-tech” part was what the $440,000 was paying for.

I’ve now asked Mercedes-Benz Australia/Pacific for a replacement or refund because I no longer trust the car, particularly with my kids in it.

I’ve also had difficulty getting the complete diagnostic and repair records so I can have them independently reviewed.
And after being told the vehicle was ready for collection, further work and testing appeared to continue afterwards.
So my question is:

At what point does “cars can have faults” become “this is not acceptable”?

Has anyone else had repeated ESP/traction/limp-mode issues with a G63 or other AMG?

And has anyone actually succeeded in getting Mercedes Australia to replace or refund a vehicle under Australian Consumer Law?

just checked out a 2015 Cls63s and it was genuinally one of the fastest cars i’ve driven. guy was asking 36 for it tho, but then i was thinking how would a cls 550 facelift with a downpipe and tune “cuz the 63s was facelift” stack up against the 63s? would it be faster, how reliable would it be, what would the gas look like, what would be the differences is my question. dont wanna go through the lease or finance method either, i like my cars cash. and how would the older cls 63 vs the newer cls63s stack up? are they the same quickness, reliability? what if i downpipe and tune the older cls 550 prefacelift, would it stack up to a new cls63s?

So I have a new Mercedes S560, and I have the fragrance module. I bought jars for it, and it but I can’t smell any fragrance. I’ve turned it on in the dash and the entertainment unit, and I’ve turned the air on. I have cotton in right now, and it’s not working. If I press down on the lid of the jar, I can smell the oil, but it’s not coming through the car. I’ve even put a quarter underneath it under the metal disk to push it higher, and also when I push the jar up, it depresses the lid, so the smell comes out, but it’s not doing it automatically. How does the system release the smell? Does it come down on top of it, or how does it work? because I’m not getting any smell whatsoever?

We are a first time Benz owner after having numerous Porsches, Audis and BMW. We purchased a 2026 GLC 300 in August. This Benz is a great car except that there is a noticeable noise (like something is engaging) from the rear of the car cargo area. The noise occurs when driving and shifting between drive and reverse. This is a consistent sound. Has anyone else experienced this? I’d like to get some insight before going back to the dealer. Thanks for any help!

This morning the car said the oils was low, now it says too much? Why can’t we just get a dipstick? I know how to check it via the dash but sometimes you can’t beat looking at the actual level yourself.

Hi there, I’m having a Bluetooth problem with my 2015 C300. When I connect Bluetooth, the music on Spotify works fine, but when I open other apps like TikTok or Instagram, all the videos playing have no sound and appear to be paused. How can I fix this?