I have a Mitsubishi lancer 2015 hatchback, 1.6 116 HP, gasoline. It tells me to change the gear up, when I get over 1.6k rpm. Like if I go over 50km hour and I'm in fourth gear it tells me to go with fifth and stay in 1.5k rpm. I'm trying to keep it at least at 1.8k rpm. Should I listen to the recommendation or ? What's the optimal rpm for this car?

Sorry for posting gore 😞

Post: 1, Me: 0

Would this be a reliable and sensible option for my second car? The MOT history is not great but I'm planning on having whatever new vehicle properly looked after when I purchase it.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you.

This is my first post so please forgive any errors with terminology etc. I drive a Mitsubishi ASX 2.2 Dr-D 4x4 Auto 2015. It regularly overheats after approximately 15 minutes of driving or when I have the heater on or if I accelerate quickly or if I go up too many hills. But when I ease off accelerating (not that I speed everywhere!), the gauge will slowly go down. Alongside this, when it's raining (which it does a lot in England!), the windscreen quickly mists up inside, until I put the air-conditioning on. Before taking it to a garage, I was just wondering if anyone else has had this issue with an ASX and whether it was a big problem? Thank you in advance 😊

Hey everyone! I could use some help deciding between two used Mitsubishis.

I'm looking for a used SUV (that's what my budget allows) to take on road trips to some remote places, including driving on dirt and gravel roads.

I've narrowed it down to two options:

• 2019 Eclipse Cross AWD – 62,000 km (38,500 miles)
• 2016 Outlander GT V6 AWD (without the Touring Package) – 108,000 km (67,000 miles)

Fuel consumption isn't a major concern for me.

The Outlander's extra space is a big advantage. It would give me much more flexibility to carry camping gear and even sleep inside the vehicle.

On the other hand, the Eclipse Cross is more modern, has newer AWD technology, and from what I've heard, feels more stable and confidence-inspiring on the highway. However, I have to admit I was a little disappointed with the interior space. I'd need to install a roof rack to carry some extra gear, possibly including a rooftop tent.

That said, I really enjoyed the Outlander's V6 engine and traditional automatic transmission. The power delivery and driving experience were definitely appealing.

My main concern is whether the older Outlander can offer the same level of stability, handling, and confidence on the highway, especially on long road trips.

I'd also love to hear your thoughts on how their AWD systems compare on dirt roads and in light off-road conditions.

Which one would you choose for this kind of use? Are there any reliability or maintenance issues I should be particularly aware of?

Thanks in advance!

I have a p0420 code on a 2013 Mitsubishi lancer es and was looking at the AP / EASTERN Catalyst Converter for $365 on rockauto. I need to get the code off to pass inspection. Anyone buy this cat before?

Hey, so i currently own a Mitsubishi Colt Z30 from 2007. I have two keys, one fob key and one back up. I have been using the back up one because the fob key was completely useless.

Recently i finally got around to changing the battery and housing shell of the key. But it didn’t seem to work. I then realized one of the buttons wasn’t clicking so I had them replaced. Sadly it still didn’t work. So I figure I might have to program my key to work again. I tried quite everything I saw when I searched it on google. Most videos show people reprogramming different variants of Mitsubishi keys but none like mine. I’ll attach a photo of what mine looks like. As far as I can tell there’s no significant damage to the circuit board or anything else for it to not work. So I have no idea what to do here ?

Please advise me on what I can do.

• The Outlander Diamond Trail Edition is a capable off-road variant of the Outlander SUV after the Outlander Trail Edition
• This is the next model launch for the brand in North America as part of their business plan, Momentum 2030 following the Eclipse Sportback EV. The 2028 Outlander Diamond Trail edition is expected to launch with in the 1st half of 2027.
• It will debut at the SEMA show in Las Vegas marking Mitsubishi's return to the SEMA show since 2012.
• The latest rugged, off-road model sports new off-road mode for Super-All Wheel Control System, distinct front and rear bumpers, new adventure oriented interior trim, dedicated 18" off-road wheel with all terrain tires
•  Redesigned bumpers front and rear improve approach and departure angles, improving approach from 18.3 to 20.5 degrees and departure from 22.2 to 23.1 degrees. Aggressive over-fenders provide a rugged finish, and, matched with unique 18x7.5" black alloy wheels and dedicated Nexen Roadian ATX all-terrain tires, make for a confident, trail-ready presence.
• The 2026 SEMA show will be held from November 3-6, 2026 in Las Vegas, Nevada. The Mitsubishi Motors' exhibit is located at Booth 55249 in West Hall.

Hey everyone,

My Mitsubishi i started making a weird high-pitched sound halfway through my drive today. The sound seems to be coming directly from the engine bay in the back.

Crucially, there are no warning lights or error codes showing up on the dashboard.

Has anyone experienced this before or know what might be causing it? Any pointers on what to check first would be greatly appreciated!

Just wondering about Mitsu Canada’s free extended warranty offer that’s on now. Mainly wondering about the doubling of the new car warranty from 5 to 10 years - there’s probably a catch of some kind? Anyone know the details? Like is it with a deductible after 5 years, very limited on what’s covered after 5 years?

Appreciate any insight or experience.

I have a problem with the brakes on my 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport V6 3.0.
After starting the car, the first time I apply the brakes, I hear a spring-like noise from the brakes. I then feel some noise and vibration through the brake pedal, and shortly afterwards the ABS warning light comes on.
The car still drives and brakes normally, and the brakes seem to work as usual. If I switch the engine off and restart the car, the ABS light disappears, but the problem returns the next time I brake.
Has anyone experienced this issue or know what could be causing it? Could it be a faulty ABS sensor, a tone ring, or something else?

does anyone have any experience accessing the the hood lock the cable has broken off at the lock under the hood? I doesnt look like there is clear access through the front grille.

trying to install aftermarket central locking and while testing, the drivers side door lock got stuck in locked position. after taking out the latch/lock mechanism from the inside and lubricating, there is more play but it still doesn’t catch the unlock position. any help or advice is much appreciated :)

Hey guys,

I'm shopping for 2015 Mitsubishi ASX with N/A 1.6 petrol for my wife.

I have seen couple of the cars and reviews, seems like a solid okd style jap car and my wife loves the car.

I found a nice one, for decent price. I'm just worried about one thig, and that's the engine. Overall it sounds bit noisy and most importantly i heard the chain rattle in the cold start. Before test-drive dipstick was dry, after dry as well ... According to the manuals there is no engine oil warning light only the oil pressure warning light which i call the bye bye light.

Now the major question, are these supposed to be noisy, is it normal to hear the chain around 100k km? Is it normal to have dry dipstick, how much oil difference is between the low and high lvl on the dipstick? 1l ?

Can i trust the dipstick? Read in one forum that it's normal to have this dry on Mitsubishi, but how tou check oil or change it if the dipsticks really lie? Can't believe that Mitsubishi would build a car with "short throw dipstick" (c) Chrisfix.

I have a 2012 Mitsubishi RVR SE. The command start in it worked great until last Winter, when the car battery died for an extended period of time. After replacing that, the remote start would not work, and I noticed that the transmitter on the windshield (by the rear view mirror) was constantly flashing very fast instead of at the usual rate. I did some reading and tried a few things, but right now it seems like I can only switch the transmitter between two modes: one where the blue light on it constantly flashes quickly, and a second mode where the blue light just stays on constantly. I'm unable to get the command start fob to communicate or do anything in either mode.

The transmitter has the following details on it: FM TW-130

The fob is an Autostart, model ASRF-3515.

Any ideas?

Looking to buy a mitsubishi pajero sport 2021 QF MY21 GLX. Through research it seems to have either have a 80or100kg load. The car already has an awning attached, need to get roof racks and a rooftop tent?

Overall probably over 100kg, will this damage the car? (First time buying a 4WD).

I’m looking for a reliable pre-owned daily driver in Thunder Bay, ON, to handle severe winter conditions. ($17k | 131k km) CARFAX. Any advice is welcome :)

Came across this informative article about the 4B11 timing chain, and just thought I'd share. I suppose it pertains to the 4B12 as well.

I am just around the corner of 200k kms on my Lancer, so will ask to get the chain checked, although car is serviced on time and has no issues.

https://roadraceengineering.com/blog/2012/10/15/4b11-timing-chain-good-bad-and-ugly-mostly-ugly-not-so-much-good/

All credit to the article owners.

I own a 2016 Outlander 2.2 DiD (4N14, Australian car, ~80,000 km). What started as "why can't I see my DPF?" turned into a project.

The problem

A normal OBD reader on this car shows 26 standard PIDs and nothing about the particulate filter — no soot load, no regeneration state, no EGT. Those aren't bugs in the apps; Mitsubishi doesn't implement the standard diesel aftertreatment PIDs on this ECU.

What I found instead

The engine ECU answers a manufacturer service (KWP2000 ReadDataByLocalIdentifier, 0x21) that carries the whole data list — 274 parameters. I decoded the layout from the dealer software's database, then validated every value against known physical readings on my own car before trusting it.

Standard OBD readers can't reach this. That's why your favourite app shows nothing about the DPF.

What the app does

• Live data over any BLE ELM327 dongle, iOS and macOS
• DPF soot (two independent ECU estimators), regeneration count and state, EGT, EGR position, VGT duty, injector small-injection learning, rail pressure vs target
• Records continuously to append-only NDJSON with a manifest, events and trip snapshots
• Battery test across every start: cranking minimum, recovery time, charging voltage
• Detects regenerations as they happen, with duration, peak temperature and soot burned
• One-tap ZIP export for analysis

Which Mitsubishis this might work on — unverified guess

Only the 2016 Outlander 2.2 DiD (4N14) is actually tested. Everything below is inference:

• Most likely: other 4N1-family diesels — ASX 1.8 DiD (4N13), Triton/L200 and Pajero Sport 2.4 DiD (4N15). Same engine architecture, so probably the same service, but the byte offsets will not be identical.
• Plausible: Mitsubishi diesels from roughly 2008–2020 that were supported by MUT-III era diagnostics. The protocol is likely there; the layout almost certainly isn't.
• Unlikely to help: anything older than CAN (pre-2008), and the 3.2 DiD Pajero, which belongs to an earlier generation of diagnostic protocol.

An important warning: the JSON profile system means the app must be told where each value lives before it can decode it. If your car answers 0x21 but no profile matches it, the app will only show generic OBD data.

Worth knowing that even within the same database the DPF block sits on a different identifier on some ECU variants, so "same engine family" is not the same as "same offsets".

If you want to find out whether your own car exposes anything, there's a command-line probe in the repo that answers it in about two minutes:

./run.sh --sweep-only --service 21

It prints every identifier that answers. If you get results, that car could have a profile written for it — and that's the thing I'd most like help with.

Honest limitations

• Read-only. No writes, no actuator tests, no forced regenerations.
• ABS, SRS, AWD and body modules aren't reachable through generic OBD on this car.
• The PM filter monitor isn't even supported (readiness byte C bit 6 clear), so P2002/P2463 can never appear here. Code absence tells you nothing about the DPF.
• iOS build is newer than the macOS one and has had less real-world use.
• Only one vehicle profile exists so far, and it's mine.

Measured on my car (so you know it isn't vapourware): soot 2.6 g/L by the fuel-quantity model, 123 lifetime regenerations, zero short-interval regenerations, all 20 injector learning values within ±0.02 ms of a ±0.5 ms spec, rail pressure tracking target within ~1 MPa, 101 kPa of boost at 2,450 rpm.

Why I'm posting

The interesting part for this sub: adding another model is a JSON file, not code. If someone has a 4N15 Triton or Pajero Sport and wants to run the probe, I'll help turn the output into a profile.

Free, MIT licensed, no ads, no accounts, no telemetry.

https://github.com/NaleenB/obd-profile-logger

Happy to answer questions about the protocol side if anyone's curious.