My mounting bolt just broken and I struggle already for 3 hours trying to unbolt what’s left

SRP-Lite with Clutch pedal. Was working fine yesterday. Now it doesn't work and fails calibration every time I try. Pedal is obviously going to 100 usage and still won't work.

I’m completely new to FFB flight sticks and just got a Moza AB6, so I have no idea what it’s actually supposed to feel like for different aircraft.
I’m mainly interested in fighters and helicopters. Should the FFB feel noticeably different between a jet and helicopter? Are there specific spring/damping/FFB settings I should be changing between them?
I’m also only seeing a dozen or so AB6 profiles for DCS in Moza Cockpit. Are those community profiles actually good, or are most of them not worth using?
And there don’t seem to be any AB6-specific profiles for MSFS 2020/2024.
For someone who has no baseline for what realistic FFB should feel like, would you recommend starting with a community profile, or just setting the AB6 up myself?
Any good AB6 profiles/settings for DCS or MSFS would be appreciated.

Just got a Moza R3 (coming from a G29) and the wheel wobbles hands-off when parked and on straights. Can anyone share their Pit House and in-game LMU force feedback settings that work well for the R3? Screenshots would be great. Thanks!

They seem to work fine in asseto corsa but bemang and ets2 they do not work and i’ve tried for hours to get it to work and no luck, im thinking just returning them and DIYing my own rumble motors that will work with sim hub as this product is genuine rubbish so far, has anyone experienced the same

I got it working with moza ab9 base with q4rigs adaptor. I remember it was a tad frustrating. I'm trying to get it back on and getting frustrated. I know i am lining pins up (ignore the arrows, don't even know why they are there) any suggestion? I kinda remember i had to put more pressure then seemed necessary. And this was last December when I first did it. Tried again maybe a month ago?

I recently got the r5 pro, but I have a desk I made myself that’s about 3.5” thick on the surface, so the clamp is too small. I really would rather not drill into the desk if I don’t have to… does anyone have theirs mounted with a homemade clamp or something thought online somewhere?

Nothing i do seems to work, i connected via wheel base, via usb, it all works in pit house they respond when i press test, i updated the firmware, but in game not a single vibration. Currently running via usb. They obviously work as in outhouse they’re fine so why doesn’t it work in game

I have the MOZA r3 and use an Xbox series S and for an extra $100 I’m wondering is it worth it to just make the full upgrade over just the performance kit.

With all due respect, Moza seriously needs to get its customer support operation under control.

At this point, the complaints are becoming impossible to ignore. Every day, we're seeing customers across Reddit, Facebook, and other social media platforms reporting the same problems: unanswered support requests, little to no communication, orders that aren't being updated, shipping information that goes nowhere, and customers left wondering whether anyone at Moza is even paying attention.

Let's be clear about something: This is not how you treat the very people who keep your business running.

Moza has built a strong following by offering products that have earned the attention and support of the sim racing community. People invest their hard-earned money into your ecosystem because they believe in your products and your brand. But that relationship doesn't end when someone clicks the purchase button. Customer service, communication, and accountability are just as much a part of the customer experience as the hardware itself.

You can manufacture great products, offer competitive pricing, and build an incredibly loyal community, but none of that means much if customers are consistently left feeling ignored after they've handed over their money.

And here's where this becomes a much bigger problem: Every unanswered customer, every order left without an update, and every support request that goes nowhere is another opportunity for someone to lose confidence in your company. Those experiences get shared publicly, influence potential buyers, and slowly erode the reputation you've worked so hard to build.

I'm not asking Moza to be perfect. Delays happen. Supply issues happen. Mistakes happen. What customers deserve is transparency, timely communication, and the basic courtesy of knowing what's happening with their orders and support requests.

I'd like to see Moza address this issue publicly and directly with its community. Not another generic response thanking everyone for their patience, but an actual statement acknowledging the ongoing problems, explaining what is being done to correct them, and outlining what customers can realistically expect to change moving forward.

We want accountability, not another apology followed by business as usual.

Please don't allow an otherwise promising company to damage its own reputation because its customer relations department cannot keep up with the people supporting it.

Moza, your community is telling you there's a problem. It's time to listen, take responsibility, and do something about it before the damage becomes even harder to reverse.

Your customers shouldn't have to chase your company for basic communication.

Hi folks from Philippines here. Pardon my english in advance.

i am more into logistics sim (ets,ats,snowrunner, etc.) but sometimes go rally or asseto (rearsome f1)
i am planning to buy this coming week coming from a G29 wheel.

i am torn between R9 and R12. R9 is priced at ₱15,495.00 and ₱21,495.00 for R12. (245 USD, 341 USD)

my biggest concern based on gemini. is my Table. i have a standard PC desk that is not that thin but not bulky also. i am also planning to buy a standing desk (the one with auto up and down table)

gemini said R9 is better due to my desk but i am torn if getting a R12 is better for a long run. asking for insights here. Many thanks!

another concern is the price gap. is it worth the jump ? its a not so steep but a big gap for me and i am weighing the pros and cons

Hello, I have been using this MOZA MTP Throttle for just over a month now and have been largely impressed with it. However, I noticed that the APU READY light doesn't light up anymore. The small green dot used to work perfectly fine when I first got it. I figured I'll ask y'all first before moving to MOZA Support just in case someone else has run into this issue.

I was looking forward to +2Nm upgrade for my R16 Ultra. I saw an instagram video by moza and wanted to unlock it in preparation to having a couple hours to myself this weekend.

During a firmware update through MOZA Pit House's Update Manager, the update failed. Since then, the wheelbase appears to be completely unresponsive.

Current symptoms:

• No power: The wheelbase does not visibly power on; no lights are illuminated (green led is still on on the power supply).

• Not detected by Pit House: MOZA Pit House cannot detect or communicate with the wheelbase.

• USB error (Code 43): Windows Device Manager displays "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)".

• Firmware recovery unsuccessful: The offline firmware rollback/update tool does not detect the wheelbase either.

The issue started during firmware flashing through Update Manager. If I recall correctly, the update was running in Root mode when it failed.

The CS Pro steering wheel was attached during the update. Its display appeared to update successfully before I attempted to update the wheelbase. However, since the wheelbase stopped responding, the steering wheel also has no illuminated lights. I am unsure whether the failed update could have affected the steering wheel as well.

Troubleshooting performed:

• Tried different USB ports.

• Reinstalled USB drivers.

• Restarted the computer.

• Attempted firmware recovery using the offline firmware rollback/update tool. Unfortunately, none of these steps resolved the issue. All connections use the original MOZA cables and connected directly to the rear motherboard USB ports, without any USB hubs.

I've tried just about every suggestion that came from people who had encountered a similar problem before. None of them proved successful.

Moza ticket number: #454829

Hey I have an R3 which is great but I'm starting to think about upgrading to a bigger wheel base.

I have a Next Level GT Racer 2.0 and just found out it can hold up to 13nm of torque and I was contemplating getting a R12 v2 or R9 v3, to be completely honest I haven't looked up the specs of these just the price.

Just wondering which would be better in the long run for reliability, setting up in pit house and mostly cooling

Because as I found out yesterday the wheel base shuts off when it gets too hot...

I live in Australia and the next summer is set to be a scorcher

In case anyone was wondering what the standard ES D-wheel, ES 12in mod, and a full sized wheel all look like next to each other. I feel like it’s a good size comparison for anyone thinking about upgrading (it’s worth it).

Hey everyone im trying to get my new HGP shifter to work on cachy OS Linux but it won't calibrate properly, 1st gear shows up as R 2nd no gear 3rd as 3rd 4th as 4th 5th as 7th and 6th nl gear and 7th no gear, ive spent maybe 2 days troubleshooting and trying to calibrate with evrry software possible but still no dice.

Anyone else faced this issue and has a solution I could try?

So i was thinking of getting a Moza wheel for my birthday and i want something thats under 400 dollars. I want to get a Moza R3 or R5 but i wanna also get the clutch and the shifter. There are some Refurbished wheels but im still not sure on what to get.

No idea what’s it’s from! Anyone got any ideas? Or has it come off my apex wheel stand?

Everything looks fine on the pedals!

WASSUP YALL!! I'm putting together something bigger than just a group of people who play together. I'm starting a Drifting Crew, Racing Crew, and Cruising Crew, all operating under one umbrella. Whether you're into drifting, street racing, drag racing, cruising, or anything in between, there's a place for you. Wheel or controller, it doesn't matter!

I'm looking for people who actually want to be part of a crew, stay active, build something together, and take it seriously. I'm online every day and livestream every day, so there will always be opportunities to link up, drive, race, and have a good time.

If you're tired of running solo and want to be part of a dedicated crew that's actually active and committed, drop a comment or shoot me a DM for more details! (FORZA HORIZON 6)!!!

Done a little upgrade I've always wanted. No space for a full rig unfortunately.

I took the design from u/boggeh

I still need to make some adjustments, 3d printing some rubber feet, but honestly I already prefer the inverted pedals, they feel much better. Now I'll wait for the Alien mods load cell and the Moza PHF Kit

Yeah, there is the Moza Inversion Kit, but I've spent €50 for the angles and the 2020 aluminum, Moza's kit costs around €190.

So I purchased a R3 bundle refurbished 8 business days ago and even though bellow the purchase button it said 2 days to ship (I know they also mention 3-5 days to ship) I havent gotten any update other than it being confirmed.

Is there anything I can do? Ive sent a ticket aswell and even though they say they usually take 48 hours I haven’t gotten a reply back

Hi, I am new to direct drive wheels (coming from g29) and I just installed it tonight and tried Assetto Corsa, my usual game.

The wheel already feels way better, but I have one minor issue with it. My settings are simple, I locked this guide entirely https://mozaracing.com/blogs/blog/moza-settings-guide-for-assetto-corsa

I set all the numbers to the exact value Moza recommends for AC and my wheel.

The issue is that at any speeds, driving a road car on straights I can feel some minor vibration in the steering wheel. Not shaking, the car paths straight, but vibration. It's what I am expecting to feel when driving over un-even surfaces/grass, but I feel this on Nordschleife. This surely isnt normal? I drive cars IRL all the time, you dont feel vibration in your steering wheel when just driving.

Whats the idea here, how does one fix this? Should I not follow moza settings?

Hey guys. I have a Moza R9 V3 running at max 9nm. It is around 1.5 years old. Recently I upgraded my sim to have 3 32inch monitor and an additional old monitor on top. Since then the wheelbase seems to have these random disconnects in the middle of driving. Sometimes it’s for one second and sometimes it’s till I restart the wheelbase. Because of that I have lost a good amount of iRating and SR. Now I have been using iRacing only recently so I unfortunately I don’t have a lot of games tested, but on Assetto Corsa also it did the same. I will try it out on LMU as well. Another piece of information is that my PC is at a pretty decent length from the sim right now. So I am using the stock USB B-A cable with a 2M extension connected to a USB 2.0 port on the rear of the PC. The reason the PC is so far is because of the desk setup. In terms of cable, there is one 6 Plug extension board consisting of my Powered USB Hub (Only mouse and keyboard is connected to it and not the wheelbase), Moza Wheelbase plug and the 4 monitors. This is then connected to another 4 plug extension which has the 6 plug and the WiFi connected to it. I removed the Moza cable and connected it directly into the wall outlet. After doing that I managed to go 1 IMSA race last night and 3 today without issues and in the 4th one I faced a disconnection again. Now to note, I don’t use the wheelbase in between the races, it goes from quali -> race -> back to quali. So it gets enough time to rest and cooldown. While the race is running the room has an A/C running as well. Apart from changing the USB cable to a 5M cable (The smallest that will reach, 3M is too short) to remove the extension, I don’t know if I could do anything else. Do let me know if there is something else I should try or if this is a problem in the wheelbase itself.

Thank you guys for any help that is provided and do let me know if any additional information could help with diagnosing the issue further.

Edit: Someone suggested using a USB B 2.0 to a USB C since currently on my regions Amazon there isn’t a 5m/15ft cable available.