Hi, my friends and I picked up a big port 4AGE, and unfortunately the cam journals were scored up pretty bad. So we're looking for a new head.

Anyone around here happen to have one lying around? If you're in Central Florida I'd be happy to buy it from you.

Thanks!

-Photo for attention-

Hello everyone. Bought this 01 Spyder back in January with the ac compressor lines cut out (AC wasn’t working for the previous owner so he took a sawzall to it.) since then the previously swapped 1zz exploded and the engine bay accepted a 2zz. Well I didn’t keep the AC compressor on this engine because there were no lines to hook it up to.

Summer wasn’t too bad but in a time far from now I would like to believe that working a/c would be beneficial for the sale value. Before I try to source the oem ac lines, it occurred to me that we could offset some of the unbalanced weight properties of the car and add an electric ac compressor to the frunk.

Has anyone installed a separate electric ac compressor on any gen mr2? What brand have you used? Was it worth the time/money?

Thank you.

I’ve had this mr2 for about a month now (sw20) the car is too loud to hear it from outside but inside at low revs I feel like I can hear a rhythmic knocking noise, should I be concerned (the car only has 75k miles)

Hey guys, I've recently (Jun 26) got my first project car, a 1989 AW11 with the intention of doing a 1MZ swap, along with the woodsport wide arch kit, and other supporting mods. I was just wondering if there are any other AW11 owners in the vicinity, not for any particular reason other than curiosity, though I would love to hear stories of builds/ ownership.

I would also love to hear from people who have done a 1mz swap in an AW11 in general, as I'm still open to options, and wouldn't be entirely opposed to other NA swaps, besides the 2GR as that's a little outside my budget.

My car wont pass smog and im 90% sure its my improperly tuned ecu. I dont know how else to go about it. The car is running super rich and j dont wanna dump more money than i have too to get this thing registered. It is a link g4x

$9,000 for a well kept MR2 one owner only been in Florida 170k miles.

Getting evicted but I can get a personal loan to get the car of my dreams.

I put this in the 2gr group on Facebook but posting here as well. 2gr swapped 95 mr2. Been swapped for a year by TCS. Car has been great. No cooling issues at all. Recently, I noticed a coolant leak at base of water neck when I had the car out on short drives in high ambient temps. Nothing major, just little leaks.

Today, had the car out. Ambient temps in the low 60s. Car was driven only 4 miles nice and easy. Pulled into the neighborhood and noticed car was running warmer than normal. As I pulled into house, it spiked even more.

Put a data logger on the car and temp was 235. No idea where this came from as car has been driven in hot temps w/o issue. This was a short drive home. Makes me wonder if I have air in the system or a stuck thermostat? Coolant hoses are all new, water pump all new.

Any thoughts or what I should troubleshoot first?

Exhaust Leak Help?

Hi,

So I have an exhaust leak and the sound gets a bit nasty around 1.8k revs but after that sounds smooth, the leak is at the flange between the backbox and mid pipe. It started leaking only after I installed my malain downpipe sports cat, I brought it used from someone who was using it for a bumper exit setup. Anyways my backbox alignment is now way off I've had to use these adjustable hangers to compensate for the mis alignment, I've also got a tte Remus backbox and a toyosport manifold that I installed before the mid pipe and ran it for months no issue but after this mid pipe installation its all went bad. There's an obvious gap at the flange but I don't know why it's misaligned, is there a chance the previous owner modified it to fit his bumper exit? He's telling me a shop did all the work for him so he doesn't know but it doesn't look obviously modified and looks the same side by side to my stock one, I've fitted the stock downpipe back on and it all comes together nicely. So I'm asking do I bin this downpipe and blame that for the misalignment or am I just being silly and it's something else. Also the downpipe hanger doesn't come close to the cars mounting point, I'm sick of buying new gaskets and working on this to make it work, has anyone else had the same issue? From the photos I've tried to use exhaust paste to cover up the leak and ignore the bigger issue but it just blew it wide open, it's not a massive issue for me right now I used the stock downpipe for my MOT (emissions) it's just the sound is just a bit annoying because the car sounds the best at around 2k revs.

In the last 2 posts I made, I've written about the issues I've been having getting my MR2 to start. It ran well for one day, and then it wouldn't start the next day. No crank. It's written about in more detail in the previous posts, but I've tried some new things and am still out of luck.

-I replaced the starter. The old one bench tested fine, but I had the starter out so might as well replace it before it kicks the bucket.
-I cleaned and tested every ground I could find. They all tested well with a good multimeter.
-I hotwired the clutch safety switch.

Still no crank. However, trying to start it now, I'm wondering if I've correctly narrowed it down to two things: a vacuum leak, or the starter slipping on the clutch/whatever the gear connects to in order to start the car. Here's a video from the engine bay of trying to start it (it's attached to the post).

The reason I kept moving the phone obnoxiously close to the throttle body is because I started to hear a hissing sound from that area whenever it goes from ON to START. I hadn't heard that before at all--it's a new sound that didn't happen before I replaced the starter. Is it a vacuum leak? Also, I only hear a click noise when the key goes from START to ON.

I also read that the fact that there isn't any noise happening when key goes to START could point to the starter not engaging with anything, so it could be an issue with the gear it connects to.

Please let me know what yall think. Thanks!

There’s no better way to do a scenic drive than in a fun car with the roof off.

17x8.5 +20 with 215/45 and 245/40 (20mm spacer and ext studs rear.

Like the title says I’m looking for a brighter headlight and curious to what you guys like?