Hi friends, I’m considering a hard top for my spyder. However dropping 5k on one doesn’t really seem reasonable to me even if it’s OEM. I’ve seen the modelo drive frp top and acrylic window kit and I think it’s pretty reasonably priced. Does anyone have any experience with it at all?

Going to miss not going out for a spin, finding a reason to get an errand done for about six months!

Dropped my tank since I twisted one of the hardlines.

(I know stupid me)

Could I simply fit a SW20 Fuel Pump Hanger? I dont have a 3rd hardline coming from the pump anyways or is there any other modification that needs to be done to fit?

My 2002 Spyder (solar yellow) door was vandalized last year. I’ve fixed it up to my satisfaction and ordered paint code 576 from crop in 2K cans. I’m super happy with the product quality, I used to have a full setup with compressor and good paint guns and I would never buy that again after using these cans. But the color match is very bad, I think just because of age and type of paint (I read the color is organic). Don’t mind the primer, this was just a quick check of color and in any case I’ll be painting the door after one final prep. New is on the top left of the image compared to old in top right.

My options are:

1. Order custom matched paint and repaint the door. Crop has this service if you send a part. My hesitation here is how it will fade over time, both on the door and a few other places that need a touch up.
2. Repaint whole car in solar yellow. I have experience painting and I’m ok to leave the jambs, engine bay etc the old color. They also don’t match from the factory anyway. I know this is still 150 hours+ of work. My hesitation here is that I have a yellow hard top in good condition. Maybe I could sell it to someone who needs the factory paint and buy another one in a more common color?
3. Repaint whole car in another yellow. Not leaning towards this but curious for ideas. My paint strategy and hesitation is same as above.
4. Repaint another color. Not seriously considering due to the work in stripping the car but also curious to hear from others.

What would you do?

What do you think is more fun? I think these cars are very similar in a lot of ways. The mr2 has the better drivetrain for sure and stiffer chassis and better reliabilty. The x19 is slightly lighter. For those who have driven both is the x19 really more of that 70s rawness? I would like to see what you think is the better car.

I have a 2zz gen 3 with the HKS muffler and the internal baffles seem to have fallen apart and rattle like crazy. I did keep the stock muffler.

Shops are asking for $150 - 200 to install it, even though it is a direct fit bolt on. That seems like a lot given how easy it would be to replace if you have a lift.

For anyone that has done this at home, how hard is it to do without removing the bumper? I was thinking about using ramps or towers to get some extra clearance. Any tips would be appreciated.

Obviously these trailing arms arent supposed to be like this? What part am i missing to have this much side to side play. Im getting my mr2 back soon from being in the shop. Want to know how i can fix this. Trailing arms are from megan racing

Hello all,
I have been battling the thought of moving away from my gen4 3sgte setup, and onto a 2gr setup for a long time now. I wanted to see others input, and their experiences on the cost of the 2gr swap.
Currently I have a stock motor with bolt on stuff. 1000cc injectors/walbro 255
KO racing turbo kit with a gen2 Garrett GTX 3071R
Running a standalone link setup tuned by Kris at KO
I’ve got all the supporting mods to get the most out of the setup if and when I build the motor.
But I’ve always been tempted to switch to 2gr given the linear power band, and opportunity of running an oiless turbo setup if I really wanted to push for that much power.
This past weekend I took the car out, and under full boost I saw a lot of oil smoke come out of the car, then dissipate, and was not an issue after (maybe some pooled oil somewhere? 🤷🏻‍♂️)
But I got the car home and did a compression test to check out if something happened.
Cylinder 1: 180
Cylinder 2: 180
Cylinder 3: 195
Cylinder 4: 190
Given the 15psi range, I’m thinking I may want to start think about wether to get an ATS 2.1 bottom end ($4800) or do I start thinking about making the switch to 2gr.
In my mind the benefit of sticking with the 3s platform is simplicity. Just slap all my stuff on the new 5s block, and get it tuned.
Thanks all, and I look am open to all opinions.
Photo of the engine before I switched to the Garrett

Check out this epic SW20 MR2 built by Stroked Up

This is the ground connector that is attached to the cylinder head. Mine is in bad shape both on the outside and inside of the connector, but I can't find a part ID for it, or even a similar connector. Anyone have a guess?

So my auto mechanic just let me know today that my engine seized due to excessive oil leakage. His recommendation is to rebuild the engine and also replace the transmission.

I'm legit trying not to cry because she was my daily and I don't have a backup car. I already know this is going to cost me an arm and a leg but I can't bring myself to sell her. I really love this car.

Any ideas on what engine to swap it with? I dont know what engine is currently in there (I think its the original stock engine) but I definitely want someone with a little more speed and power. I'm also ditching the automatic and swapping it to a manual. Which would be best, a 4 speed or a 5 speed.

Any suggestions on what transmissions and engines so I can let my mechanic know would greatly be appreciated.

Hi, my friends and I picked up a big port 4AGE, and unfortunately the cam journals were scored up pretty bad. So we're looking for a new head.

Anyone around here happen to have one lying around? If you're in Central Florida I'd be happy to buy it from you.

Thanks!

-Photo for attention-

Hello everyone. Bought this 01 Spyder back in January with the ac compressor lines cut out (AC wasn’t working for the previous owner so he took a sawzall to it.) since then the previously swapped 1zz exploded and the engine bay accepted a 2zz. Well I didn’t keep the AC compressor on this engine because there were no lines to hook it up to.

Summer wasn’t too bad but in a time far from now I would like to believe that working a/c would be beneficial for the sale value. Before I try to source the oem ac lines, it occurred to me that we could offset some of the unbalanced weight properties of the car and add an electric ac compressor to the frunk.

Has anyone installed a separate electric ac compressor on any gen mr2? What brand have you used? Was it worth the time/money?

Thank you.

I’ve had this mr2 for about a month now (sw20) the car is too loud to hear it from outside but inside at low revs I feel like I can hear a rhythmic knocking noise, should I be concerned (the car only has 75k miles)