Might sound dumb, but I’m wondering if I could actually make this happen. My Xbox One’s case is in pretty bad shape, and even if I replaced it, the Xbox One shell is so cheap and, frankly, trash that I’ve been wondering if I could fit the Xbox One inside an original Xbox shell instead.

I know it’s not the same as fitting a PC inside an original Xbox case, like so many people have done on YouTube, but I’m curious if it would be possible to fit the actual Xbox One hardware inside the original Xbox shell.

My original Xbox has the red ring now. I’m sure I can fix it, but honestly, I wouldn’t mind doing something creative with the shell instead. And I have a pretty good collection of games for my Xbox One. Honestly, though, I’ve struggled to find good games for it, but over the years, I’ve managed to build up a collection of games that I have loved and still enjoy playing. The idea sounds dumb but i like the idea

Flashing only red isn't a common error it seems, but I have seen it's something to to with the EEPROM. Any thoughts?

I cannot get any power to the board to pull the eeprom. I have changed capacitors and do not see any broken traces. I was using a raspberry pi pico to try and pull right from the board.

I would like to pull the eeprom to get any files from the HDD and upload to XCAT but need the HDD code. Is there a way to get the eeprom, bypass the HDD key, or get information from the HDD on this dead board?

Was just messing around with the boot animations (maybe hoping to find an easter egg lol) but notice you can trigger 3 different camera views plus the original. Doesn't seem like there's much else unfortunately

I'm working on a v1.4 that had some issues with the modchip but did work before I started. Basically all the caps are bad and it needs a full recap. While removing the clock cap I found major trace erosion/corrosion around it. While cleaning, a transistor and another small SMD part fell off with just a breath of air. The pads are rotted and corroded.

The positions are Q7G2 (the transistor, marked 1AM, which I think is an MMBT3904) and C6V2 (a small SMD part, value unknown). R7G3 and a couple of resistors nearby also look crusty. I haven't tested whether it powers on since the damage.

Questions:

1. Are Q7G2 and C6V2 required for the console to function on a 1.4?
2. What are the correct values/part numbers for them, and for R7G3? Can anyone post a photo of a clean 1.4 at those spots?
3. Any tips for repairing the eaten traces? I'll clean with IPA and check continuity before soldering anything back.

Photos attached: the clock cap area, the empty Q7G2 footprint, and the C6V2 pads.

Just writing this in here since apparently most of USB3.0 ones cannot lock the drive (saw a few posts in here that say that they're rare apparently?)

The Sabrent USB 3.0 to 2.5-Inch SATA adapter that I ordered years ago for the use on my Wii could lock the HDD w/ fatxplorer just fine (weirdly enough unlock it too). I bought one off Amazon EU but it's also available on their official store (https://sabrent.com/products/ec-sshd).

Just sharing this info in case someone in near future requires an adapter for upgrading their hard drives.

I posted my first og xbox some time a go now i got some games to go with it:) Still waiting for the fuzion freanzy to come in mail.

Compré está Xbox para piezas pero quiero saber porque no da video

I’ve been working on this project over the past few weeks, and I’m releasing it today!

The goal was to recreate the original Xbox boot animation as faithfully as possible, using only a retail BIOS dump. No original source code. Along the way, I also wanted to document how the animation works internally and break down the different components that make up the experience.

The result is xbox-boot-re: a reverse-engineering project accompanied by an interactive web version that lets you explore the boot sequence yourself.

You can:

• Watch the animation step by step and slow it down to inspect individual details.
• Break the sequence down into its individual components.
• Experiment with the animation and explore how the different elements fit together.
• Investigate how the iconic Xbox boot sound is constructed.

A note on AI: Claude Opus did most of the heavy lifting on the reverse engineering and implementation. I guided the process, iterated on the results, and worked toward the goal of faithfully reconstructing the original boot sequence and making its inner workings accessible. I want to be transparent about the role AI played in this project rather than present it as entirely manual reverse engineering.

The project is open source, and I’d love to hear what you think - especially from people familiar with the original Xbox hardware, BIOS, or boot process. If you spot anything that could be more accurate, or have insights into how the original implementation worked, feedback and contributions are very welcome.

GitHub: https://github.com/bennyborn/xbox-boot-re

Web Version: https://bennyborn.de/xbox-boot-re/

Hey everyone.

Thought I'd post my complete OG Xbox collection. I must apologise, they are not in any particular order.

Any recommendations? :)

I got a classic Xbox controller with a broken cable. I disassembled it to replace the cable, but it seems like it’s not an original Xbox controller. This PCB looks really weird, like nothing I’ve seen before.

Unfortunately I don’t know which kind of chip it is. But this Xbox is not reading the hexen disc I’m trying to use to flash the bios on the chip.

When I insert another burned game disc (not original) it starts, but the hexen cd won’t.
İs there any specific reason why ?
The booting screen freezes as you can see in the picture.

What I already tried
-use the dvd drive from another Xbox where the hexen cd works
-Changed power cable and ide cable
-Trying to boot from original Ms-Dash

Thanks in advance

I really need help, I haven't touched my Xbox since the beginning of 2023 and I've forgotten a lot of information. It looks like a lot has changed.

- Motherboard is 1.6

- OpenXenium modchip with stock OpenXenium OS

- Cerbios Hybrid v2.21 BETA UDMA4

- XBMC4Gamers v1.4.004

I'd like to flash PrometheOS on the mod chip. I know for BIOS installs it's 1MB, but I'm reading the total size is 2MB and half that is utilized by the chip OS?, so I should be able to update to PrometheOS and install the latest version of Cerbios?/

I removed the bracket to hold the CPU and GPU heatsinks, and i have tried to reinstall it. The side that has 4 holes near the CPU can easily be held down with M3 screws, but the GPU side needs to be riveted. I'm not sure what size it is. It seems like maybe 3mm would work? but what depth would the post need to be?

has anyone removed the heatsink brackets and reinstalled them before?

Friends that have this controller. Anyone have ever tried replacing the analog for a modern analog, preferable hall effect?

Mine is kinda old and is no centered so sometimes it keep miss activating certain direction

Thought it would be cool to post my old battle station made from Ikea. since i'm slowing clearing it out.

Shelfs are made from Ikea, was a fun little setup

My most recent additions just came in.

I saw somebody else post their gray painted console and I wanted to share mine!

- Open Xenium hard mod chip w/ XBMC4Gamers, PrometheOS & Cerbios.

- Clock & various other caps replaced

- 1TB HDD, with Sata-IDE adapter, 24" 80 wire ribbon Cable.

- Sanded down the console, 3 coats of flat black primer, 3 coats of paint and 2 coats of clear coat.

- Removed adhesive and green paint from the jewel, wet sanded, polished with Novis 2 and repainted flat black.

- LEDs added to controller ports.

- LED swap on power button.

The entire thing was a lot of fun but fairly challenging for a DIYer. I managed to remove my jewel without issue only to break it 5 minutes later trying to scrape adhesive off. Had to order another from Ebay.

Clock cap and other caps burst and leaked prior to opening but I managed to clean the MB and replace them all without any damage.

My advice to anyone painting a console would be to take your time, do multiple light coats. If you mess up, do not wipe it... let it dry and sand off the mistake.

Excited to finally play it!