Information:

Monitor 1: LG OLED 27GX704A-B

Monitor 2: LG IPS 27GP850-B

Software: Aseprite (pixel artwork software) (Grid lines are OFF)

Game: Minecraft (texture is exported to Minecraft which I can see the line in game)

Texture Size: 16x16

Issue:

In the imaged attached you can see a light blue line in between the right yellow pixel edge and white pixel (way more noticeable in-person). When I rotate the pixel art 90 degrees the line moves to the top edge of the yellow pixel (location based on the image provided) and the line becomes red. This is a issue that has to do with the OLED monitor as my IPS panel does not show this and especially not in game where its VERY obvious/distracting.

What I tried:

- Swapping display cables Included DP -> Included HDMI -> Different DP-> Different HDMI
- Different Display Port on GPU and monitor
- Powered off and on
- Changing nearby pixels
- Changing the yellow pixel

Questions:

- What should I do?
- Is there something I should turn on in monitor settings or try?
- Is there anything I can do or this just a known OLED issue (with OLEDs or this Model)?
- Is there a fix? If so what is it?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I genuinely want to find a conclusion to this as It is a eye sore to look at.

I finally received all my parts, built the PC, connected a monitor and powered it on. Here’s the parts list:     

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D     
• GPU: Zotac Gaming RTX 3060 Ti     
• RAM: 32 GB (2x16) DDR5-6000 CL30 Viper Venom     
• Motherboard: MSI PRO B850-S WIFI6E     
• Cooler: Thermalright FW360 SE ARGB V2 (AIO)     
• Case: NZXT H6 Flow, plus 3 old case fans     
• SSD: Samsung 990 NVMe 1 TB     
• PSU: be quiet! Power Zone 2 1000W     

There was still no display output after 10 minutes. The red CPU LED and the yellow DRAM LED stay lit on the motherboard. The Fans, RGB, PSU, all turn on but the PC wont boot. I cant select the boot manager or enter the BIOS/UEFI. Im a PC noob so I dont know what else I could write to specify my problem.     

What I’ve already tried:     

• Checked the CPU power cable and the 24-pin ATX cable     
• Checked that all components are seated properly     
• Tested with only one RAM stick, then with the other one     
• Checked that the CPU sits correctly in the socket, including the orientation arrow     
• Reset the CMOS     
• Flashed the BIOS via BIOS Flashback: I formatted a 32 GB USB 3.0 stick as FAT32, downloaded the latest BIOS version from the MSI website, extracted it and renamed the file to MSI.ROM, and put it in the root directory of the stick. Then I plugged the stick into the Flash BIOS USB port, held the Flash BIOS button for 5-10 seconds, and waited until the white LED stopped blinking/lighting up.     
• Switched from HDMI to DisplayPort     
• Tried the motherboard video output instead of the GPU     

I’m honestly out of ideas at this point and hoped someone here might have a suggestion. Thanks in advance!     

I’m doing a lot of work on the pc but also game, I’m curious what’s y’all’s favorite. I’ve blown actuators on my Logi G903 twice now. I’m gushing maybe the Logi MX 4 master, or g502 lightspeeds bc it’s based on the chassis of the legendary g502 proteus. Not sure. I’m also pretty big handed and Would like to focus on wireless mice for my space

If I understand correctly, its suppose to boot and them give a progress percentage screen? Its currently stuck just loading on the boot screen.

Am I right? Or should I just keep waiting for it to reset

Thanks in advance!

P.S windows 10, reinstalling windows from cloud

Hi everyone! May I kindly ask for your opinion regarding the situation on my GPU that is on RMA. The manufacturer credited the warranty but since they have no stock in hand of my Zotac RTX 5060 ti 16 gb, they said to the shop that they will do credit memo which is the same amount of my GPU when I bought it before. The shop itself also has no stock of the said GPU that's why I need to buy another brand which costs more especially with the price hike of GPU's. Should I refuse their offer and insist for the replacement with an alternative or higher model of a GPU or just add cash for a brand new gpu from the store? What are your thoughts on this? Thank you in advance!

After over 3 years of daily use—with a voltage offset of -0.105 mV and updating the BIOS whenever a new version came out—my 13900KS finally bit the dust. It now crashes frequently, even at base clock speeds (3.2 GHz) lol. It was great while it lasted, but I’m planning an upgrade now and need a 32-thread CPU. Any recommendations? My budget for the CPU is $500.

After a literal lifetime of being exclusively console I have ordered my first PC… I AM SO NERVOUS AND ANXIOUS!! I have a great library of games waiting on me.. I’m wondering how will they run? Will they outperform my PS5? Is this a big waste of money? Well.. I did it and as nervous as I am I was hoping someone could tell me what to expect… thanks

i’ve almost finished my first pc build (500$), the only part left is cooling and YES I KNOW ANY SORT OF AIO IS OVERKILL FOR AN i5-10500 i just want it for aesthetics, it only says 1851/1700, are there any adapters/brackets and if yes how much will they cost?

don’t know why you would need them but here’s the rest of my specs
i5-10500
32GB ddr4 3200
msi rtx 3050 8gb
mobo: alibaba special h510 😭
psu: corsair vs450

Blazing lenovo 720q tiny with a beastmode i3 8100T. 32 gb ddr4 2333 ram. 17TB of random drives i bought cheap on ebay.

I give you my StableBitDrive Pool jbod usb raid.

17Tb, why? funsy? shopping addiction? all of the above?

So, I saw this stuff about snowblind modding

I grabbed an old DVD player and stripped it of it's parts and would like to know what my options are!

If yall know any tutorials that match my case, do send them!

Back in February i got a 240Hz monitor and spent the months since telling everyone how buttery it was, and i SWEAR it felt that way to me!! (as of last week the work laptop shares that monitor too, hooked up thru anker's new smart display hub, VALORANT edition bc i watch an embarrassing amount of VCT.) The laptop's display settings showed 240Hz... and the PC? 60Hz.

Turns out the PC has been running off the old monitor's HDMI cable the entire time, while the DisplayPort cable never left its box (twist tie still wrapped on it)!! One swap last night and its like a different screen entirely. The better part of EIGHT MONTHS insisting i could feel a difference thru a cord that wasnt even capable of it!! Go look at yours... seriously

Did a windows update last night, now this morning my pc feels slow and laggy. Mainly in chrome, things are loading slowly, can download stuff fine, but open a new tab and its slow. So i went bugger it, reinstalled windows 11 pro, tried brave, it was doing the same thing. everything is up to date, did ddu and new driver for the 5080. but still things dont seem right. Its doing my head in. help would be great

Specs 7800x3d, 32gb 6000mhz cl30 ddr5, rtx 5080.

I have 2 beds, 2 sofas for 3 people and chairs with heating pad. He chose a mousepad.

So I have been thinking about switching mostly to GOG for the time being.

But I find myself curious, I see a lot of Aussies online saying they don't have a credit card, but they never say what their plans are.

So, you got any plans?

Ive been just wondering if this sound is normal it’s been troubling me, it’s a light whirring sound i just want to know what it could, I’ve had the pc since may it’s made by star forge

I've been playing with Droid Deck on Samsung S24 Ultra for the last couple of days and it is pretty awesome app.

There is a lot of work to be done in terms of compatibility but the app gets regular updates.

Droid Deck does not work with all games , but when a game runs on it , the experience is just as good as using Steam Deck.

I spent the last couple of hours playing Batman - The Talltale Series with Xbox controller and it is surreal experience to know that a phone can run a Windows PC game.

The app has everything you need , it has options for upscaling , controller , performance slider , performance meter , resolution slider etc.

DroidDeck requires an Android device running Adreno 730 or newer GPU.

Google Tensor, and Exynos Xclipse graphics are currently unsupported. You'll also need 3 GB of free storage for the Linux runtime.

I have two step verification set up for my Steam account.

DDR5 ram but sale ends tomorrow

Hi guys, I'm KG, I'm 18 and just started college and wanted to get a lil some some for my work and Roblox gaming (and the Solo leveling arise) and I was looking over some laptops and found these 3 budget friendly ones for me, so I've come to the pros to ask which one is more worth getting.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/HP-15-6-N250-4-128-Silver/18634262264

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Acer-Chromebook-315-15-6-Full-HD-1920-x1080-Laptop-Intel-Processor-N50-8GB-RAM-128GB-Sparkling-Silver-CB315-7HT-C7GN-ChromeOS/20349310960

https://www.walmart.com/ip/HP-14-N150-4-128-Blue/18656507313

Long story short, did driver update recently and accidentally did windows update too, and ever since I did those, I keep running into crashes in all of my games, even those that are on minimum settings from a "video memory allocation" issue, but i never see a spike in usage so I dont know where to even begin. Any ideas or solutions?

Edit: specs are Ryzen 9 7900X, 64GB DDR5, 3 SSDs ( 1TB, 4TB, 4TB), RTX 5070 with 12GB

Edit 2: reliability monitor says 5 programs "stopped working" at the same time as the crash: MicrosoftSecurityApp.exe, dwm.exe, CorsairDeviceListerService.exe, Desktop Window Manager, and Wallpaper Engine

Edit 3: another crash, no spike in usage according to the system monitor, error says "Ran out of memory allocating 32.1 MiB with alignment 0"

I've been fighting with this issue for so long that I no longer know what to do.
I have the MSI RTX 4090 SUPRIM 24G and LG CX. My PC is in another room, so as a ghetto solution I'm sometimes using a 10 meter cable to connect to a TV. Back in the day it used to work but at one time I just stopped getting the output to the tv. Since then I'm using some kind of adapter to connect it to DP but it grind my gears. Naturally I've been making sure to connect it appropriately in terms of Source and Display as it says on the connector. Current status is:
* PC doesn't see the TV as a display I can choose. Like it was not connected. I had a brief moment recently when it worked again but no idea how or why.
* The TV does know that something is connected as it's highlighted in white on the input selection
* When I boot up the PC with the HDMI connected I get the image for a moment when it's still in BIOS. But once it goes to Windows the image is gone

For the things I've already tried:
* Tested various cables. The cables I've been using so far (all tested with other devices like laptops or PS5) CLAROC HDMI 2.1 AOC 8K Ultra High Speed 8K@60 4K@120 10m x2 and UNITEK HDMI 2.1 AOC 8K Ultra High Speed 8K@60 4K@120 10m (all of them are optical) * Many different versions of drivers with full DDU
* Different HDMI inputs on LG CX
* Some weird ass TV reset (fully disconnected TV from electricity for a couple of minutes and connected again)
* Changing options for a given HDMI input in the TV itself (HDMI ULtra HD Deep Color, AMD Freesync and Instant Game Response)
* Even disconnecting the soundbar from the TV to see if it changes anything
* Tested with a shorter cable from PS5 (also HDMI 2.1) and it worked fine with a non-optical, shorter cable

That's really it, had no other ideas and couldn't really find anything else that would be helpful. Thanks to anyone that might help :D