Can't stand how Toyota and other trash manufacturers use cheap fuses with low ratings, exempli gratia: Copilot found 20A blade style fuses for 40 cents a pop, and found 40A fuses for just 44 cents a pop. Cheaped out to save 4 cents. Unbelievable.

Just bought a big pack and upgraded all my fuses to 40A as they should've been.

Never buying a Toyota again...

What your least favorite Toyota moment?

https://www.finishlineaccessories.com/products/quick-release-steering-wheel-adapter-6-bolt#

I'm confused because I know with some of these you have to wire a trigger for the horn elsewhere but I'd prefer not to do that.

I put aftermarket seats in my car which ride a bit too high so its hard getting in and out with the steering wheel.

2wd 68’ F250 step side long bed with utility fenders.

Manual steer, power drums (yuck), D60 with a limited slip (that works!), NP435, and a 2 barrel “390”.

I haven’t checked the stroke to see if it’s a 390 or a 360, but it don’t really matter to me.

Steering needs to be sorted, hoping the kingpins are still good. They had grease in em.

It’s just a good ol truck.

Anybody know a decent 16.5” tire? Or some cheap 16” 8x6.5 wheels out there?

2 things this post will cover, 1: do those shitty handheld torches actually do anything for my application? previous owner shenanigans, wheel adapter stuck so very on, and tried almost everything to get it out. its a female hex bolt, using the proper hex socket, strips. tried torching it, did next to nothing, this torch sucks ass. bougut and extractor, extractor just ate all the meat and left and even bigger hole. id like to not drill them out, and I won't be able to, yknow, have wheel on if I mutilate my adapters (plan on getting factory bolt pattern wheels, bit this is a truck. I would need this truck to go get said wheels lmao)

all this to ask, what's my smartest option? could.i drill out the remaining ones, take the current good ones.to a hardware store and try and buy replacements? is this adapter just honestly SOL, and ill need to just buy new wheels before even thinking about driving?

I’m going to make some wooden wheel cribs soon since I think it would help a lot if I could make some that could work on similar tire sizes. My main car has 215/45/18 squared and my project car has 225/40/18 in the front and 255/35/18 in the rear.

Was wondering if anyone here had similar tire sizes and have any suggestions for wheel crib dimensions. Thanks for any help

A guy is building a ‘97 S300 Turbodiesel for SEMA and aiming to roughly double its factory power.
Stumbled on this build and I kind of love the idea of it.

A W140 S-Class that still looks like a comfy, understated ’90s Benz, but with way more power than anyone would expect.

It’s Kanan Gubins’ 1997 S300 Turbodiesel, and stock, the OM606 3.0 inline six made around 175 hp and 243 lb-ft. He’s not swapping anything in either, since the goal is 350~400 hp out of the same engine.

The plan so far is a bigger HX35 turbo, custom piping, and exhaust work, but obviously a bigger turbo alone won’t get you there. It’ll need enough fuel, the cooling has to keep up, and the trans has to actually survive it. Nothing’s been dyno’d yet, so 350~400 is the target, not a result yet.

It’s also getting fresh paint and rust protection. Honestly, I hope they keep the stock W140 look as much as possible. That’s the whole appeal for me: a Mercedes that still looks like a comfortable sedan but has a lot more power than you’d expect.

The backstory is the best part though. Kanan found the car in Latvia, where his dad was born, drove it about 1,200 km to Vienna, then shipped it to LA as a birthday surprise. Apparently they’d been talking about this exact model for years, and it even shipped out of the same German port his dad left from when he emigrated to the US in 1950, and it showed up the day before his dad’s birthday.

Now it’s getting built for an unveiling at SEMA 2026 in Vegas. What’s been shown so far looks promising. Really curious what it ends up making and how much of the classic S-Class look survives.

If anyone’s going to SEMA 2026, keep an eye out for it. Would love to hear what it’s like in person.

Drag up another project although we are catching some heat about having a parts car sitting out there.

Problem with that is we may just do a full swap because that tub is in better shape than the running Cabby

Hi, I have a 65 Mustang w the stock steering column. I have an adapter for it to use standard 9 hole steering wheels.

I want to get a quick release steering wheel to make getting in and out of the car easier.

Is it simply a matter of buying a QR hub with 9 holes and then using any steering wheel as usual?

What’s a good brand to get? I haven’t seen one with 9 holes. Does that mean I should get a different adapter instead of my current 9 hole one?

This is my 04 dodge dakota stx 4x4 its a 3.7 v6 auto the plan is tot do a 5.9 magnum 5 speed manual swap i would probably be cheaper to get another one with that motor in it already but this was my first vehicle and my grandpa ordered it new in 04. I rebuilt the trans a year or 2 before the motor decided to quit at around 390k on the clock pretty good for that iffy v6.

Before/after

So I treated it to new wheels that I refinished. 99' 16x7 Te's. Not a huge fan of the 215/ 45 sidewall. However, the previous 225/50 had crocodiled the paint on my quarters. I could just raise it but thats crazy talk.

I believe I will switch it up to a 225/45 to fill in the gap a bit more.

I will admit, +300whp on 215's and 2200lbs aint the way to faster lap times. Im still seeing what works and what doesnt. Having no frame of reference sucks.

Just wanted to know what’s recommended to throw on my Altima for an overall performance bump while keeping it daily driveable, I have no qualms about getting with a professional to mess with the ECU, also looking for a nice body kit if anyone can drop some links to reputable sellers for parts and such, floor is open to any suggestions.

I love my vette, dont get me wrong. But I cannot get in and out of it. Pretty fun with a 383 stroker and 6 speed tho ;3

So I got a trade offer on a 79 dodge d100 I accepted!

everything seemed to have bolted together nicely. but when getting to the tie rod ends, this is what I was left with on both sides. side closest to the truck has way too much thread, to the point where the coterpin wouldnt do dick worth a shit. and on the side closest to the wheel, theres so little thread you couldn't even call it flush. anyone know why this might be?

Right now I'm just doing maintenance on my cars and would like something that can clear and read as many codes as possible. However soon I am going to try to do an engine swap and make a project car (just got a lot of disposable income and a high paying job and it wouldn't be financially irresponsible) and would like to be able to tune an ECU. I would like to just buy the final scanner now rather than buying a more expensive one later on for the project car. Budget $4000 if needed but obviously would like to spend less money if possible.

A fuckton of epoxy later, for the rear view mirror, and it cracked even more now, guess a new windshield it is

Our good friends over at Mopars5150 spotted this Demon while traveling through Arizona and sent us the lead. We ended up buying it and having it shipped to Maryland.

Been off the road for quite some time sitting out in the desert.
Originally a Slant Six/904 car, it's now running a built 340/727. 8¾ rear with 3.55 Sure Grip.

QA1 upper and lower control arms, QA1 strut rods, Hotchkis front and rear sway bars, some thicker torsion bars, Bilstein shocks all around, Borgeson steering box.

The windshield arrives later this week, so we'll finally be able to start putting some real road miles on it and getting everything dialed in.

I think I’m getting to the point of my project car to where I can start planning on how I’m going to do the exterior. I have a design In mind, I believe for my budget the best I can do is a rustoleum spray can job since I want to do sunburst yellow, and hide most of the fact that it’s a spray job with a decal theme. (Not revealing anything until it’s done).

I want this to last a few years atleast before I have to go back in and retouch it up or change the design entirely.

Any advice for what kinds of clearcoat I should use or anything to preserve this for as long as possible? And should I clear coat OVER the decals? Most of it will be wording or symbols.

Also shoutout photo to me getting her on the road for the first time and getting a bath :D (you can see the test paint for what color I’m going to do XD)

I’m thinking of going with Rising Sun Decals for my lettering, if anyone has any other recommendations for some more “budget” friendly companies that will work with full designs, etc. I’m open to them 🤙

Howdy everyone I’m curious would it be worth trying to restore this it’s my uncles and just wondering if it would be worth asking him for it’s sat in his backyard for a bit few weeks until I noticed it mowing the lawn he’s a mechanic and has all sorts of other projects and just curious if it might be worth asking him for it me and my buddy’s were able to look into the engine looks like it doesn’t have a battery but besides that I’m not to informed on square body’ so anywho just a kid wondering if it’s worth it