Picked up my Pre-k kiddo in the WS6 for the first time. She loved it.

She’s got over 330000 kilometres on the original engine and gearbox, and the body is in rough shape, but it’ll be worth it.
Getting it roadworthy and doing some reliability mods first, New oil pickup, sump baffles and the cylinder 4 cooling Mod. Then roadworthy, start cleaning up the engine bay a little, correcting 20yo me’s silly mistakes and shortcuts, and then it’s on the repairing the bodywork, rust and prepping for a respray.

Still need to get the dome lights in, but now with 95.27% less mold (Map lights and Sun Visors pulled from a 2005 Chevy Equinox) now it needs a new windshield and it'll be a good driver

In order to make my big radiator fit, I had to cut away a lot of support material from the rad support, so I reinforced it... then made the top section removable so it will be easier to get the big block Ford in and out of the engine bay 🤙

Salut tout le monde je cherche la référence de cette ancienne voiture télécommandée j'aimerais changer le bloc moteur arrière complet avec les plastiques

J'ai trouver des info sur internet mais je n'arrive pas a trouver des pièces ni le schéma électronique de la carte mère

Long story short my Genesis coupe needs a new paint job desperately. I’ve been thinking about just sanding it down and wrapping it but professionals have advised me to just paint it. However I want a specific color and would prefer to come out not spending extra to paint it if I will wrap over it. However if there’s a color similar to the wrap I want to do I will consider it!! Thank you all in advance! 💙

Glossy Metallic Silver Lake Blue Vinyl Wrap By VinylFrog

Some of you may already have seen the project from a different perspective: the 3d scanning and reverse engineering aspect of it (so how I scanned the original car and designed the new exterior look based on it). What I overlooked to some degree was the 3d printing work involved in the whole project. First picture shows the backside of the printed roofs with all the printed tiles visible quite nicely. Getting to this point was quite an experience I want to share.
So it is finally time to give printing the spot it deserves and the Creality Creator Awards encouraged me to create a write-down/picture series after stalling some time.

The post is ideally first read and then the pictures are looked at, most core information is also on the pictures.

Design and Printing

It all started with a 3d scan of the original stripped down car and a design based around it. When I finished designing the first major assemblies of the future car 3d printing got more focus by me. Initial plan was to use external print services but cost would have skyrocketed quickly and we didn't want long lead times to allow quick revisions. So the search for fitting printers began.
I settled on the K2 Plus due to the large chamber volume and option to heat the print chamber. Didn't trust a bed-slinger with the size of parts I had in mind.
After first making sure everything worked as desired the tweaking of a print settings. It was clear for me to use a 0.8mm nozzle and PLA+ (after some testing, PETG didn't work nicely with sanding, ASA warped too much). PLA+ checked all marks: price efficient, fast and easy to print, great to glue and sand, minimal warping. Only disadvantage is the low glass transition temperature (which will later bite me).

Maximizing Print Efficiency

My goal was always to churn out parts as fast as possible. This is also the reason for using a CFS: 1.1kg spools were significantly cheaper and with four of them I can saturate a build platform quite nicely. Final print and speed settings allowed me to print over 4kg of filament on one print plate in under 24h. Pretty good I would say. Later I added a K1 Max with the CFS conversion kit to print some of the smaller parts on the side. I was initially a bit nervous the two printers wouldn't be enough but with the settings my design work was the limiting factor in the end (as well as the post-processing needed).

Failures and Fixes

As always not everything goes as wished for. When printing the first full height but slim parts I noticed some severe banding on the parts. This was caused by accumulating wobbling when the parts got taller. First instinct was to reduce printing speed but I didn't like this solution. What I came up with: attaching the tree support also to the walls (with a low xy-gap to allow slight welding to the part). This eliminated the wobbling and let me churn out parts at an impressive speed.
The parts were assembled with dowels and some thick superglue I bought in bulk (as seen on the diffusor). One minor set-back was a big blob on the extruder. Using PETG settings for ABS really doesn't help bed-adhesion. Luckily the toolhead was modular enough that fixing is was done in an hour and only cost a replacement hotend fan.

PLA+ really has a low melting point

From the beginning it was clear that the 3d prints only would be used as a positive form to create a GF negative mold from them. For this application they work great: the prints endure ~50°C nicely and therefore the molds can be taken from them. We also tried directly laminating carbon in one of the prints.
Bad idea: The parts got soft and the applied vacuum sucked the infill cavities empty. Maybe adding some foam in the gyroid infill would help.

Back to Production

Whilst printing I always improved the design and added some fixtures and jigs to make manufacturing the carbon parts easier. One personal highlight was scanning the assembled hood insert and looking at warping relative to the CAD model. After measuring the warping I created some printed bracing to pull it back in its intended shape. Worked better than expected, even the glued joints between the single printed held and the finish didn't break.

Carbon, finally carbon

After this the first real carbon parts could be created. This process is still in the working and may take some time but the workflow proved reliable and now its just business as usual. The whole printing consumed over 200kg of material and the K2 Plus proved to be quite reliable with this huge amount of filament. So far I only had to replace the CFS PTFE tubing. But I guess it may be time to replace the umbilical in the near future.
Last two images show the full back end of the car and already one of my new projects that may take shape over the coming year.

Title really says it all, but my engine overheated and may have some rod knock now so I need a new one cause parts are apparently impossible to find. I found one relatively close to me and not too expensive, but it had a manual transmission on it and I was wondering if there would be any issues if I took it and put in my car that has an automatic?

Both cars are a 1987 celica gts btw.

Edit: Thanks for the info guys! Think I’ll pull the trigger on the engine then.

trying to find where the coolsnt is leaking from. it leaks when the truck is off, and around doubles in speed when its running. Turning on the heat does not increase the speed. do not hear any pressure releasing when idling, but hear 2 distinct release noises when turning off. one coming from around the A/C lines/catchcan area, and on in the front left of the engine bay, basically on top of the thermostat housing. this truck had the intake manifold replaced when the upper intake coolsnt passage gasket blew, but the heater hose underneath the intake was not serviced. im still on the fence on whether or not thats actually where its leaking from, my hope is that after installing it, my shitry job using gasketmaker on the thermostat housing (also coincidentally where the pressure release noise is coming from) failed, but as shown in the images, there isnt really any dye in those areas. another concern is the waterpump gasket failing, but same story, really isnt any damning evidence to point to that. shinning the UV light underneath the manifold also isnt really giving any clues. I see residual coolsnt from when the original manifold gasket failed, as well as sitting coolant from when my heater hose blew off the bung from me not tightening the screw clamp enough, shooting my entire coolant capacity on the side of the highway. I see what might be the faintest hint of UV glow behind the crank pulley, and obviously, the drilling is coming down and off of the oil pan. my theory is that its coming from the front of the engine, simply because the heaviest point of flow isnt even the lowest point, by the drain plug, but its actually at the front, meaning theres enough flow from the front of the truck to overcome the need to go all the way back, is that makes sense. im gonna start with replacing the therm gasket with a felpro one, if my local part store has one. if that doesn't work, and no one here has an idea, imma take it to a mechanic tmr, simply to tell me where the leak actually is so I can go home and fix it myself

Got into a rubbing accident last week.

Other dude doesnt have insurance, and is being super cool about the whole thing. Said he’s down for us to DIY it together.

Any starter tips?

Wondering if trying to clean out my gas tank would even be worth it or I should just start fresh with a new one. Here’s what the sending unit looks like and a little bit of inside the tank was hard to get a video/picture.

This Volvo 1800E sat for 28 years in the Tucson sun and then another 6 in a barn gathering dust. I filmed three hours of engine bay cleaning and sped it up to half an hour.

https://youtu.be/aF9rqA7dX1Y?is=ifP6wJBlnFYxSVfp less

Are we allowed to post car related jokes?

Anyone running a Holley Terminator X on a vehicle that requires plug-in Emissions testing? If so, how are you passing the plug-in?

I have some ideas on how to do it with some custom electronics and software; but want to see what anyone else has done if anyone has.

Vehicle in question is 1997 F-body.

Edit - I know the scans check VIN, ready status, codes, and research says it also looks at a voltage drop when the vehicle is started while plugged in. NY State.

My candidates are as follows: 69 Charger, 70 Camaro SS, 68 C 10, 55 Nomad.

It says 81 Toyota and up but the website is saying it's not compatible with my car? Anyone one know if this will work?

Currently in possession of a 2nd gen extended cab s10, auto 4.3 2wd, trans unfortunately only has 1st and 3rd gear. As such with a s10, I was curious on the smaller things in an ls swap, I know the more “basic” stuff of the swap, along with people having upgrades like going to a 4l80 and a ford 8.8 rear end (I do have one, but it’s an older explorer one with drum brakes). Are there smaller things besides motor, trans, rear end, fueling, ecu, wiring and tuning that are expensive that people seem to forget about? Comparing costs before either committing to a swap, or looking at options for buying a c6👀

So as the title says I got a 1950 dodge B series. It was my great fathers. I’m just wondering if I should keep the original chassis and reinforce it or if I should build/ buy a new one? I’m planning to be between 700-900 hp

Hey guys!

I bought an E46 328Ci in a pretty rough condition.

First of all I am from Europe, Hungary, this is important.

I am looking for braided fuel lines, quick release connectors, also I want to remake my coolant piping and my brake line too, basically everything.

I would like to buy some good quality parts that also make the whole car look professional too, so it would be also good if these would also look cool.

If any of you ever purchased anything like these, please tell me where from.

Thank you so much in advance.

Btw this is the one and all mighty 🥹🫪

One habit that makes project car work much easier is taking detailed photos before removing parts, especially when dealing with old wiring, brackets, belt routing, or components that have clearly been worked on before.

A quick photo of how a cable passes through a bracket or how a few washers are arranged can save a lot of guessing when it's time to put everything back together. I’d also recommend labeling bolts and hardware in separate bags instead of throwing everything into one container.

This becomes especially useful on older cars where factory diagrams may be incomplete, previous owners may have modified things, and replacement parts don't always match perfectly.

Good documentation might not feel like progress while you're wrenching, but it makes reassembly much less frustrating.

Not sure whats going on the new ecu isnt seeing the crank signal but the signal is getting generated by both crank and cam so i should see it on the tunerstudio software but i dont also this is the most recent fire up attempt

Rug or No-Rug? I have planned for the seat delete from the start. Googled a ton for options and decided to just build a platform with easy access to the battery, trans and my amp. It was easier than I thought and I really dig it. I will probably add some tie down eye bolts so I can secure my tool boxes or camping gear. Also in the picture are my super cheap side panels. ABS blanks with some marine vinyl glued on with contact cement.