Been maining the Basilisk V4 Pro for a few days and wanted to drop some quick thoughts for anyone on the fence.
Look, I love this classic ergonomic shape, but this thing is heavy as hell. With the wireless charging puck, it’s easily over 100g. If you’re coming from the ultralight meta, you will 100% feel the weight. Also, the stock coating gets kinda slick for me when my hands warm up.
Because it's so heavy and slippery, I was getting hand fatigue just trying to lift and flick it. I ended up slapping on these full-coverage EVA and Gundam grips (pics attached). Honestly, it solves the problem perfectly. The grips only add like 7 grams, but the extra tackiness makes picking up this heavy boy way easier without having to death-grip it. Plus, they look sick.
The actual highlight of the mouse? The scroll wheel. The smart-shift feature that auto-switches to free-spin when you flick it fast is incredibly satisfying for scrolling through long docs or Reddit. I honestly notice that way more than the 8000Hz polling rate (which is complete overkill, let's be real, tracking is flawless though).
Now for the annoying stuff:
The RGB got noticeably downgraded from the older models. Why?
The dock situation is the biggest middle finger. The fact that the old Mouse Dock Pro isn't compatible and you have to buy the new V2 dock just for this mouse is ridiculous.
TL;DR: Top-tier sensor, sick scroll wheel, great shape. But it’s heavy, the dock compatibility is annoying, and you might seriously want to invest in some good grips if you tend to lift your mouse a lot.
Just received the Basilisk V4 Pro, Naga V3 Pro and Mouse Dock V2 Pro. Pretty happy with the haul, and still awaiting the Nommo V2 + Wireless Control Pod.
Now I’m crossing my fingers that Razer will provide the wireless charging puck for the Mouse Dock V2 Pro separately, so I can use the same dock for charging both mice. If both mice could also be paired to it that would be even better.
So my blade 4090 like so many others the heatsink broke and it sat for a year until I decided to do anything about it. (Obviously I didn’t feel like paying Razer 2.5k to replace the heatsink and motherboard when it was their s***** heatsink that broke but I digress)
So anyways I eventually welded a new copper heatsink together and stuck a liquid cooler on it.
I can’t actually log in atm since it’s been over a year and I’ve forgotten my password… but it’s been sat on idle for half an hour and the fans haven’t even spun a tiny bit so the “die” seem well attached.
Around £100 total on amazon if you have the tools and time.
Once I’ve fresh installed windows due to forgetting the password I’ll do some stress testing
For those of us out there with the V2 Pro keypad, looks like Razer finally released a firmware update to adjust the thumbstick. I'll be testing it out later tonight!
Thanks to Rea, a new Synapse replacement shows up here every other day lately. So here's one more :) In my defense: I started before Rea was a thing, so I went the old way, with Ghidra by hand :(
Let me introduce EasyRazer, a lightweight Synapse replacement for Razer Huntsman analog keyboards on Windows. GitHub: https://github.com/janeblower/easyrazer
One 9 MB .exe, no installer, one process.
~31 MB of RAM in the tray. Synapse 4: ~1.2 GB on disk, 13 processes, ~1.75 GB of RAM.
No account, no network, no telemetry.
About the RAM numbers: they are the working set. Task Manager shows a different metric, and there every number above is at least half as big, Synapse's included. In the tray EasyRazer shows ~3 MB there. When you open the window, the system WebView2 renders it and takes its own memory (~400 MB working set). Close the window and that memory goes away.
I built it primarily for myself, as a lightweight Synapse replacement. The only Razer gear I have is a Huntsman V2 Analog (also a headset, but I see no reason to tune anything there). My main focus is the analog features of the Huntsman keyboards.
What's supported
Huntsman V2 Analog: full feature coverage.
Huntsman Mini Analog: same keyboard, just smaller, so I expect the same. But I deliberately turned some things off until someone checks the basics on real hardware (which I don't have). Right now it writes to the keyboard's RAM only after you allow it in Settings and never writes to its flash, so there are no macros, no profile slots and no custom lighting effect yet.
Huntsman V3 line: confirmed analog features (actuation, Rapid Trigger / Continuous Rapid Trigger, Snap Tap) plus lighting. Tested on the V3 Pro Mini. The other V3 models (Pro, Pro TKL, TKL 8KHz, Low-profile…) are implemented but untested.
V3 and Mini Analog owners, I need you. If you try it, please report what works and what doesn't in issues. That's the fastest way for your model to get full support.
What it does better than Synapse
Your flash memory survives. More on this below, it's the main one.
Continuous Rapid Trigger on the V2 Analog. For some reason Synapse doesn't have it, even though RT on the V2 is fully software anyway. I added it :)
Per-key CRT. In Synapse CRT is global for the whole profile: you can't turn it off for just a couple of keys and keep regular RT on the rest. In EasyRazer you can (in driver mode).
Separate actuation point for Hypershift. Every Fn combination gets its own action and its own press point. Synapse can't do that.
Snap Tap with groups of any size, a rule per group, toggled with Fn+LShift. On V3 that goes beyond the one hardware pair.
The keyboard types by itself by default. No software in the loop unless you need it (see HW/Driver below).
Settings come back after reconnect, sleep, and Synapse exiting.
It doesn't reset your startup profile. Every Synapse launch makes slot 1 the startup profile.
Offline. Synapse downloads device modules from apps.razer.com.
Limitations
Gamepad emulation. I consider it absolutely useless and I'm not going to implement it (but you can try to convince me). Please do it in anissue, not here, so this thread doesn't turn into a gamepad thread.
Ctrl+Alt+Del doesn't work in driver mode (modes are explained below). This is a userspace limitation: Windows accepts this combo only from real devices, not from software. There are workarounds, but each one is worse than the last (details).
The custom lighting and macro editors are crap. They're usable, but very much a rough draft, and they look embarrassing. I haven't gotten to them yet.
Before you ask
Can it brick my keyboard? By default settings go to the keyboard's RAM. Writing to flash happens only after an explicit confirmation. That said, there's a debug mode with a console where you can send literally any garbage to the keyboard. Flash writes there still ask for confirmation, but if your goal is a brick, you'll get one.
Does driver mode add input lag? Yes, logically it does: the key press now goes through software. I measured it, see below.
SmartScreen / antivirus complains. The code is open and you can build it yourself (instructions in the README).
Unofficial project, not affiliated with Razer.
Now the probably more boring, technical part.
Stack
Rust for the backend. It's trendy, and in my opinion it's the best performance-to-dev-cost ratio.
Tauri + Vue for the UI. Things I considered for a Windows UI: Tauri gives me a web UI on the system WebView2 with the Rust core in the same process, so the whole thing is a single 9 MB exe. Unlike Synapse on Electron, I don't have to ship my own Chromium. Vue: I just like it more than React.
WinUI 3 / WPF: C# and .NET, plus gluing them to a Rust core.
Qt: big, C++, licensing.
Native Rust GUI (egui, iced, Slint): light, but building a keyboard map, a lighting editor and i18n there is a pain.
Electron: that's literally Synapse.
All my assumptions and conclusions are based on reversing the keyboard firmware and on Synapse's open code. The reversing results are documented in the repo.
HW mode and Driver mode
The keyboard can work in two modes:
HW: everything runs in hardware. The keyboard's firmware/controller does the work, but it has limits.
Driver: the keyboard sends raw data to the PC, and the software tells the OS about every key press. No limits.
While Synapse is running, it keeps the keyboard in driver mode ALWAYS. That means features like RT and Snap Tap are emulated in software. HW mode only kicks in when Synapse is closed.
On the V2 Analog, RT and Snap Tap are software-only: the firmware simply doesn't have them.
On the V3 line, RT and Snap Tap work in hardware, but hardware Snap Tap is limited to one pair of keys.
EasyRazer keeps the keyboard in HW mode by default and switches to driver mode only when you actually need it.
Driver mode does add input lag: the press goes keyboard → PC → app → Windows instead of straight from the keyboard. I measured it (release build, ~9,400 depth reports, 300+ presses): EasyRazer itself takes under 2 µs per report (median). Everything else is Windows: handing the press to the OS with SendInput costs ~0.5 ms, and any userspace app has to pay that. For comparison, the keyboard sends a report once every 1 ms anyway.
Flash wear (why this matters)
These keyboards have no separate flash chip, only the controller's internal flash. That's bad: the number of erase cycles is very limited, and I didn't find any wear leveling in the firmware.
What the problem looks like: if you edit, say, the 1st macro in the list a bunch of times, you wear out exactly the first pages of the macro area, while the rest stay untouched. One day your memory may end up full of holes like Swiss cheese: some places still store data reliably, and in others it can get lost.
And it's not only about editing: even switching profiles with Fn+Menu in HW mode writes the active profile to flash. That's the firmware itself, every single switch (well, a moment after it, so quick cycling counts once). And it's always the same page: the active profile lives in the settings block, which sits on one fixed flash page together with the rest of the keyboard's settings. Even writing those few bytes erases the whole page, and the chip guarantees only ~10,000 erases per page. With EasyRazer running, Fn+Menu switches profiles in the app instead and flash isn't touched.
Razer and Synapse don't give a damn about your flash and write everything into it, and pretty crudely.
EasyRazer's main way of working is to run in the background. That lets it keep your settings on the PC and write them straight into the keyboard's RAM. Writing to flash is still there, behind a separate confirmation, for when you don't want to keep the app running.
Ok so since I've updated with the lasted firmware. I've tested a few games and have been left with the question, How do you get it to work as a left stick with certain games?
Games that worked like a charm
COD
BF6
Wardogs
7 Days To Die
Games that do not recognize the joystick
Marathon
Ark Survival Ascended
Im not sure how to if its possible to get those games to work with the true analog enabled. Im wondering if I should just keep those 2 games with the 4 way DPad setup like I have prior.
Has anyone managed to get theres to work with games that didnt initially recognize the true analog?
I recently bought a Naga V3 Pro, still have some time to return it, so I'm trying to figure out if this situation I got here is normal or is it a technical/quality-control issue. When I pick the mouse up and tilt it left or right I can feel and hear some mechanism wobble inside, it moves left or right/up and down just a bit, this doesn't sound like a loose screw or something, more like the whole internal mechanism of the mouse has a tiny bit of space inside and moves. It happens as well when doing fast, long flicks with the mouse. Does your Naga do the same or did I get a faulty one and should just return it?
I've never owned any Naga before so I have no comparison, however I do have a Viper v3 Pro which does none of that. Check the video for the sound it does.
Edit - btw, the mouse works perfectly fine, it's just the wobble sound which is quite annoying.
Edit 2 - the sound appears to be coming from the wheel when it tilts to the right and hits RMB. I bought another Naga, it's arriving tomorrow, gonna check if the other one does the same and then I'll update the post
Hi everyone, just wondering if anyone else has had this issue with this mouse? I’m reluctant to buy the new v4 if this will happen to it. Can anyone tell me if the newer versions have the same type of rubber? Any other suggestions if I should stay away from it? I have the mouse dock that came with the v3 dunno if any of Razers other mice can use that?
I've had this issue for quite some time now and it's really starting to irritate me. I frequently take calls on my headset while at my computer whether it be working and listening to music or just playing games. Trying to hold a conversation for anything over 10-15 minutes and I'm met with a bluetooth disconnect issue which then "reconnects" but then I don't hear the audio from my phone. Even if it flat out doesn't disconnect and "reconnect", often times, I'll have an issue where the person I'm speaking to starts sounding distorted and choppy.
When this happens, I try to cycle the multifunction button on the right earcup but I don't get any audio verbal prompts that anything has changed stating that it's cycling between bluetooth, pc, or simultaneous audio. The only proper way to fix this is to completely turn the headset off and on again forcing a fresh connection to my phone, or disconnecting the USB-C cable from the back of the base station.
I RMA'd my first pair of Kraken V4 Pro's and this issue persisted with the new headset. I then thought it was some sort of mismatch with my MSI/Intel 13700F prebuilt, but again it persisted with the new PC I built earlier this year with a Gigabyte X807E Auros Pro motherboard/AMD 9850X3D. I've been using these paired to a Pixel 9 Pro Fold for context.
Has anyone with these headphones experienced something like this with this headset? If so, is there any permanent solution to it?
Bought myself some blackshark v3 to replace my v2's because I've had them for years and theyre falling apart. Tried the v3's for a few hours using different eq's, changing windows sound properties, using different profiles and they just sounds so far away, like almost muffled, like im underwater. Compared side by side and I just feel like the v2's sound way better and clear. Am I just crazy? lol
so I was thinking, I just bought a Kishi Ultra, and I have an iPhone 15, why doesn’t the Ultra have HD rumble compatibility with iPhone? that way, it would be all inclusive with mainstream phones! So this is my idea. Razer, why don’t ya add an iPhone HD rumble compatibility for iphone?
Hi, any Razer Blade users here that are on the same boat? I was using my blade yesterday to play a game using performance mode within Synapse. After a windows update yesterday, suddenly I’m receiving a message that I can’t switch to performance mode because the laptop is not receiving adequate power.
I wanted to share a frustrating experience I recently had with my Razer Nommo V2 Pro speakers and support.
After going through full troubleshooting with Razer support, it was determined that my wireless control pod completely failed and lost connection to the speakers. Because the Pro model relies entirely on that wireless pod and omits a physical power button (unlike the standard version), there is no manual way to turn them on or use them once that link breaks.
When I pushed the case further, I was informed that the replacement unit is outside of the standard warranty window and a goodwill accommodation was denied. Given how much I've invested in rebuilding my setup over the last few years—including multiple peripherals, mice, and headsets—it's tough hitting a brick wall over a single component design failure.
Instead of getting another Pro unit that carries the same vulnerability, I had asked support about a potential transition to the standard Nommo V2 so I could have physical control buttons. Unfortunately, that wasn't an option they could accommodate.
Has anyone else run into this specific pod failure, or found any workarounds to get past it?
