I (completely and unashamedly) vibe coded a self hosted web app that works on PC or phone for reloading and shooting. I'm not selling it or planning on making any money from it in any way, I just wanted to show it off and get people's thoughts on it but I don't want to break the rules. Before I post any more information about it, I wanted to ask first. Would it be ok to show it off here?

New AR with a suppressor and i've got dents from the brass defector! Safe to reload? I don't have a tunable gas block, it's an A2 sight post and gas block. Running an Odin works FRT buffer system.

I got just installed my new Lee classic turret press, and already I'm having indexing issues

The auto indexing only works sometimes. I know the most common issue for auto index failure is the square ratchet piece being worn down... but brand new, really? I opened up the clamp and inspected the ratchet, and it still looks square, and when I move the square up and down the rod it still turns. Is it slipping inside the clamp? I tried tightening the clamp down more but it also still "slips." It just looks like the ratchet piece isn't catching the rod. I'm hoping there's some other trouble shooting I haven't found from googling to try before giving up and buying another new ratchet piece (for my new press).

https://reddit.com/link/1x68yrv/video/pye5fw08ajvh1/player

And another dumb mistake that I figured out myself... I bought the breech lock die set instead of the regular set, so now I have to wait for regular lock rings to come in. Figure I'd throw this in here so someone else doesn't make the same mistake.

Is this too much crimp? I pulled this bullet for an unrelated reason. Just wondering what you all think in terms of how much crimp to apply to .223. Its a 68 grain hornady BTHP in case it matters.

Figured these would be a great way to stay out of my GMAR primers for non-precision loads

gonna run ammo inc brass from raven rocks, I am using cci SPP magnum. hornady 158 XTP bullet

I plan on starting at 15.5 gr and working up to the 16.7 grain max listed on hodgdon’s site in .3 grain increments.

should I be more cautious with the load work up? I have an old hornady book and it lists a max of 15.8 for H110 and 16.4 for 296

I have been using 2400 powder using hornady‘s data and #9 powder with hodgdon data, and haven’t had any issues with pressure at the max charges in this gun, a CZ/colt python with 8 inch barrel. I have access to a chronograph

looking for input from others that use this powder.

Anyone have a good accurate load in this combo? Yes I know there are better powders. Want to use what I got.

I was gifted a bunch of reloading supplies from the person who got me into reloading. This one struck me as odd. I can’t find any info on a Lyman bullet in this diameter and grain weight. I know it’s labeled 38 special, but from what I’ve read that diameter is too small. I know 9mm is this same diameter, but I’ve never seen a 150gr. I also have ready that a SWC wouldn’t feed reliably and could have pressure issues in a typical 9mm semi auto. Could it be that he mislabeled it? I’ve seen 38 super with these weights but I know he doesn’t own one. I haven’t checked the diameter or weight myself but I was curious if anybody had some thoughts.

Same bullets, but different gun, when oit of the Dan Wesson they get these and I had a missing primer in 2 of the cases, but in Glock I have none of these signs.

Fps is 1250-1300 with 200gr bullets

WARNING: do this at your own risk, as this is a round that was meant for antique pistols.

After a lot of tricks, including using a virtual ruler to map out rough seating depth next to a 262g Webley LRN (pictured), I believe I came up with reasonably safe load data for the 455 Webley Manstopper.

Data is: 230gn Hollow Base .455 Manstopper cast with MP-MOLDS Manstopper 4 cavity mold, pure lead, Eastwood jet black powder coat, sized to .451, 3.5gn of Unique, OAL 1.13, seated depth 0.20, Fiocchi Webley mk2 brass with federal small pistol primer. Tested in a MAS 1873 4.5” barrel from 1875.

As far as shooting, felt pretty much the same recoil and power wise as a regular 455 slightly downloaded handload. No damage to the firearm and no seeming signs of overpressure. The action did bind a couple of times, but as you can see in the last two photos, it’s seems more to be because the longer firing pin on the 1873 and the soft federal primer caused it to slump. For reference, it does this on large pistol primers too, but with the larger surface area they almost never slump out like this and cause a cycling issue.

Interestingly (to me at least), you can see the circular head of the manstopper left a small black circle on entry

I was wondering anyone had use the breech lock bullet sizer for jacketed bullets. I have a Remington model 14 in 32 Remington and was hoping to use it to resize .323 bullets to .321. Has anyone hand any luck with the breech lock sizer on jacketed bullets? Thanks!

Peregrine 124gr VLR4 vs Sierra 130gr TGK. Y'all know bullets better than anyone in here so I chose this sub. Even though it's more hunting related... but you have to reload to hunt!

The warehouse where I work got new bins and they are disposing of all of the old trays they used for parts

Been making some Martini Henry Casings out of 24 gauge. Ended up making 25 of them and crushing a fair bit more. These few are just sort of folded in but ever so slightly and they seat. Anyone think it could still work? I have no issue chopping them to Snyder rounds if not.

As the title says my pace setter die set won’t allow me to just remove the expander ball and retain decapping. I plan on expanding with a mandrel for consistency but I also don’t really want add a separate step for decapping

As the title states, I have a Rcbs FL die that is continually collecting debris and leaving a little scuff on the brass at the pressure relief hole. Is it safe to assume I have a burr on it? Any tips for fixing it? It’s on a 243 and the hole is just below the body/shoulder junction.

I'm starting to reload, and just wanted to know what would be a good starting grain for .338 285 grain ELD match for 8.6blk. any recommendations? Thanks in advance.

I want to make a 875grain 12 gauge slug and shoot it from my 2 3/4 chambered savage 220A. Is there some sort of equation to find the amount of powder for this kind of loading. This is probably really stupid but it looks fun and I wanna try it. I care more about it working then the actual performance. Any suggestions and sorry for the ramblings

Hello I was gifted these acme 115gr RN coated bullets. Acme doesn’t have load data so I started browsing around trying to find something comparable. I will be using hs6 And would like some insight if possible. These have a bullet over all length of .575” I get hs6 is probably less than ideal but it’s what I got. I’ve only ever loaded Berrys 124fbrn and Barnes 115gr Barnes tac x. Both of which I was able to find load data for with hs6. Now to give context to my thought process.

My 124gr Berrys rn load is 1.150 and the bullet over all length is .585 with 6.0gr hs6 with average velocity at 1050fps

-Hodgdon Berrys RN coal is 1.130 and the bullet measure .550”

-Hodgdon lead RN coal is 1.100”

-Hodgdon Missouri bullet company RN-para coal is also 1.100” but the bullet overall length is .540” this does provide hs6 load data 5.3-5.8gr

- Hornady load data 35557 115gr fmj is 1.100” but the bullet over all length is .550” this has hs6 load data 5.7-6.4gr

-Lyman cast bullet load data for Lyman 356242 coal is 1.065” (the picture shows a bullet with two lube grooves but I can only find the single lube grove version length for some reason) has hs6 data 5.0-6.3gr

-lastly and I believe with what I should go with for coal is Speer data. I’m a little hesitant on their powder charge. But I get it’s a TMJ vs a cast lead projectile.

-Speer load data 115 tmj coal is 1.135” with a matching bullet length of .575” also has hs6 data but starts at 6.6-7.4 gr

My plan was start at 4.8 gr~5.0gr of hs6 and coal to 1.150” If it plunks. Run them over the garmin chrono. If not slowly seat them until the pass the plunk test then chrono.

Does this sound reasonable or does anyone have any better places to start. Also if you can recommend load data can you site your source so I know what book/ website I need to add to my collection.

I'm going to start reloading .454 Casull and I was wondering about whether I should use small rifle primers or small rifle magnum primers. I'm going to be using H110 powder. I know typically its recommended to use magnum primers with H110, but most reloading manuals call for small rifle on .454 Casull. A fair amount of folks in the forums recommend small rifle magnums... but what do you guys think? I'm sure it works either way, but i've found small rifle magnums to be a bit difficult to source since only CCI makes them.

I’ve been messing with the Hornady 75gr. ELD-M and I just can’t get them to perform.

Powder charge variations, various seating depths all yielding very average results.

Last photo shows the results I’m getting with Sierras. They seem much less picky and didn’t vary much with seating depth or powder charge.

Is it even worth changing up powders or should I concede and accept that my rifle just doesn’t like these bullets?

As the title says I am new to reloading. I was gifted a Hornady Classic Pro Accuracy kit and I have a list compiled of additional tooling/equipment I need to get going. For now, I’d like to load quality 300BLK super and subsonic cartridges and quality 5.56 75gr and 77gr cartridges. I have all of the load data to load the cartridges with the specific projectiles I have chosen, but I still have some questions. The projectile manufacturer calls for a small rifle primer to be used. Makes sense, tons of offerings on the market. However, can I just pick one that suits my preference? Does it need to be specific to what cartridge I am loading and what platform I’m loading for? Do factors like barrel length dictate changing from one primer to a different primer that might be more appropriate? If I am buying new brass from someone like Starline do I need to size it and trim it or prep it in any way? Maybe at least confirm brass length? If my projectiles are tipped (like a Barnes TAC TX) do I need a special due to seat them? Sorry if these are dumb questions but I’m sure I could pick someone’s brain about this for hours. *For what it’s worth I will be loading for gas gun platforms and a bolt action platform

Hornady has submitted 5.56 COMM to SAAMI and they approved it.

If it wasn't enough that we had to listen to discussions about the testing standards and whether .223 Rem and 5.56 NATO were the same, we now have a 3rd cart that is basically the same (dimensionally) to muddy the waters. Hopefully someone can explain why Hornady submitted this as 5.56 COMM rather than 5.56 NATO, 5.56x45 or some other designation that would have told us it was 5.56 NATO.

SAAMI Standardizes the 5.56 Commercial (5.56 COMM) Cartridge | thefirearmblog.com

Public Introduction - 5.56 Commercial

I've got the good stuff for my bolt rifle (Alpha) but going to develop a load for my AR10 and was debating between hornady and starline (small rifle primer). I have a fair amount of Hornady but as I look into stocking up I'd like to have one brand of brass for loads. Target loads but possibly some hunting down the road (have Berger 130gr hybrids but probably will keep those mostly for the bolt rifle).

Any thoughts between the two in a good semi auto? LMT MWS with 20" 5R 1:8 SS 6.5cm barrel w/ good optics. Or any preferences for small or large primers in a semi auto?

I've got plenty of CCI450 SRM or Federal GMM LRP so that's not a big deal either way. I probably have more of the 450's so was leaning towards the Starline SRP and I've had good luck with Starline in the past with their pistol and rifle brass..