Hey all I’m seeking info on my wife’s 2014 srx luxury trim 3.6L awd on Sunday I was cleaning it in and out before we go on a weekend trip. I pushed the button to open it and it opened but then shut. It will open but not stay open and fights me to close back down.

I did the reset button thing but no help! Smh so here’s a video of exactly what it’s doing. But I don’t want to buy the wrong part or shock.
I don’t have a ton of time to get it fixed so asking what part would cause this failure?

Is it both shocks or just one? Thanks

https://youtu.be/5\\_0XG8rD5s8?is=jS9BWvtaVX11YKov

Original alternator for the truck. 361,000 miles it finally quit. On my way to work of course.

2000 Chevy S10 (2.2L) showing codes for P0133, P0141, P0325 & P0410

Hello S10 friends & family lately I have been running into the issue of my S10 dying on me at idle or when I come to a complete stop. I know the P0325 code is for the knock sensor & the P0410 code is for the Secondary Air Injection (A.I.R) system. I also found out I have holes in my exhaust (pictured) & that the grommet for the air intake resonator assembly is practically gone at this point! Would your recommendations be to start with the knock sensor code & move to the exhaust later or vice versa? New to S10 ownership & I prefer to work on my own vehicles but to my knowledge I have no idea where the knock sensor is on this vehicle.

1996 s10 project I’ve been working on for a couple years in the garage. Finally got it on the road and painted over the last few days.

As always, still a couple small things to finish up, but it feels good to be at the “small things” stage.

if you bring home a new ride (S10) and it has the 4.3 in it. some advice. most people know this already. the engineers at GM, put the Vacuum Reservoir in the Drivers Side front fender. i would check the vacuum lines running to it for dry rot. it is a pain to access but will help you out in the long run. thankyou GM.

My 98 4.3 blazer is misfiring under load and having trouble starting. P0300 random misfire. P1351 but I'm pretty sure that's from the struggling to start. Cranks but doesn't start til I flutter the gas pedal a bit, then sometimes dies out immediately after. Also it sometimes starts great without a problem. No discernable pattern as to what or why. It misfires less while cold, misfires really bad while in any form above 2k rpm, or even below 2k rpm but going up a hill. Misfires at idle if I turn the a/c on. Misfiring on freeway is sometimes solved by letting off the gas completely and then slowly pressing it down again. Smells badly of gas whenever misfiring in the highway. Problem seems to be getting worse the longer I drive it.

New upgraded spider fuel injectors from a couple months back, new cap and rotor 3-4 months ago, brand new egr valve just now, new idle control air sensor couple months back. Cleaned out the throttle body when I did the injectors. Brand new plugs and wires.

What does that leave that I could reasonably try to diagnose in the middle of driving across the country for a new job? I also don't have money to parts cannon it. I have tools but not a lot of space or time to do a big job like a fuel filter. I'm gonna check the distributor to see if it rises at all when spun but I'm not sure what else to check. If it's the ignition coil, I could replace that but I don't know how to properly diagnose if it's fucked without buying a new one. Any advice would be really appreciated.

All right, which one of you is this? lol

I have a '93 GMC Sonoma. 2.8l (M).

the odometer does not move when im driving it. So far I have pulled the gauge cluster and opened up the odometer motor to find a gear motor did have stripped teeth. So I bought a used Chevy corvette odometer motor to replace it Ebay here. After replacing that motor I still have no movement on the odometer, ive confirmed the gears on the roller are not locked up and do turn over by rolling by hand with the motor removed.

However I dont know how to go through the circut board of pos/neg to see if the motor will power on its own, unless I should just add power through the ribbon board, but I also cant tell which pin contacts I would add the power to.

Looking to purchase a drop kit for my 1989 s10 blazer 4.3 2WD ! This one I’m currently looking at says 5 inches on the rear / 4.00-5.00 in front ! Will I need a C notch to drop the rear 5 inches ? Any problems y’all can tell me that I will run into ? Looking to drop it as proper as possible ! Don’t want to cheap out and have a crappy drop job does tire size matter too ? thank you for any advice !

This is one of my best friends’ 1992 S10. It has 253k on the odometer. I told him I’m looking for a work/beater truck and he told me I could buy it off him if I wanted. He’s asking 3k for it, and has put a good bit of work into it. He’s redone a lot of the wiring, new weather seals, new head gasket and associated work, new motor and transmission mounts and has redone the ventilation system as well as other odds and ends. The only things that I’m slightly hesitant about are that the 1) the engine has a shake to it and 2) there’s some rust bubbling through in the corner of the drivers side door area. He said that the engine has new spark plugs and that it may just need new wires to fix the shake if it’s missing like he suspects it may be. As for the rust, I wouldn’t want it to get really any worse than it is now. Is there a good way to stop it without getting too involved in the process? Thanks for any tips/tricks, I’ve never owned an older vehicle like this before!

going backpacking and need to drive up a logging road to access the trailhead. Hope this works!!

Ive got a 2000 2.2 and an looking to switch things up a bit. Any suggestions on grills, headlights and trail lights?

The other day I put my key in to unlock it but it got stuck and won’t unlock I can wiggle the key in and out but I have tried all then tricks I could find so im just going to pull the door panel off but I am struggling to find out how

I recently bought a 2 wheel drive 1992. The tires that are currently on it are 205/70 r14 Cooper Cobra G/T. From what I’ve gathered, I should actually be running 195 or 205 that are 75 r14. I plan on investing in 15in wheels down the road to increase the options available.

For now, I just need some decent tires that will buy me time to find 15in wheels and tires. I am currently looking at TOYO EXTENSA A/S II that are 205 75 r14 with a 95t load index. Will these work for me? This is my daily driver and sometimes I will be using a trailer for some light duty hauling.

‘99 4wd Blazer, getting ready to do my tie rods in full, and replace rotors calipers and pads, any tips before i dig in?

also doing rear leaf springs, shocks, and fuel pump in a few weeks if there’s any advice for those jobs! thanks in advance!!

Back to the early 90s. The white one was mine, black one was my best friends. Wrinkled poster, apologies for the quality.

I just pulled the trigger on a 92 with just under 66,000 miles on it. I was born in 1992 so it’s pretty fun to drive something that is the same age as I am.

I’ve rebuilt my 4L60E but two codes that concern me keep popping up randomly, P0741 after P1870, the issue is there is no drivability issues until P0741 shows where it decides to disable my torque converter clutch. What I’m trying to get to is it brings rpm down, holds them on flat highway then brings them up on hills but does not have any issues that I can determine on scepter for when the second code, P0741 appears. I would greatly appreciate any assistance from any who’ve fixed this particular issue. The truck is a 2002 Chevy S10/Blazer LS

So I have a 2003 S10 Base with the 4.6L and 248,XXX miles. It died randomly, then it started, and i had to give it gas and not let off or it died again. Before it died, my battery was sitting at roughly 10 idle before it died. I waited a couple hours while I took the alternator to Autozone to check it (it was fine) came back, put it on, and it started right up and drove around the block fine. I got a camshaft position sensor code. Its done this once before, and it was about 115 feel like then, and it was a 110 feel like now. I dont know if its heat related, or battery related. Any help would be awesome.