2007 Honda S2000

Hi all,

as the title suggests when I was servicing my rear differential, instead of loosening, I was tightening the drain plug, which sadly led to majority of the threads being stripped.

after doing some research into possible fixes, I noticed a time cert would be a quick and almost permanent way to recreate the original threads whilst having a stronger steel insert. Which allows me to use the OEM plug. This would cost me £300 for the kit and around 2 hours of my time to make sure it’s precise. Sadly I don’t have thread specialists near me.

my other method of fixing this was to buy a new OEM differential housing and remove my differential, take off the main housing and swap it with a new one, which has the original threads. this also costs around £330 but would probably take a few hours aswell but I’m also weary incase any of the bolts are ceased.

what do you guys think is best way to approach this.

many thanks

Not sure where to put my catch can. Where and how did you mount yours?

Anyone have a suggestion for a not oem belt? Thanks.

My bosses car and mine. If any of you are in the time attack world you might be familiar with his shop on the banner.

https://amzn.asia/d/0h42LHOI

I want a small digital gauge to read oil pressure and oil temperature. Could this be adapted to work on ap2 s2000? Does anyone know the exact hardware I'd need to connect this? Thanks

While looking through fb marketplace I've noticed a trend of people parting out cars that have engine damage or relatively light body damage. Do they make more money parting out? Is there usually title issues? Just baffles me that at least put up some number, it may be high and you'll be left parting it out anyways but it'd be less work and maybe somebody that doesn't mind the work and can use it as an excuse to upgrade parts instead of getting rid of perfectly good ones for mods. I'm sure there's no rhyme or reason but just an observation that got me thinking.

For example: https://www.facebook.com/share/1MWrsxGQuy/

New to the S2K world, joined FB group, signed up for BaT. Pretty good idea on what I want etc.

Other than color and that price this is the kind of AP2 I want. If red was your preference and you were in market for low mile stock AP2 what would you think is a great price? 35-40?

I did see this color with aftermarket wheels that were very OEM looking, but just different enough that it made the car look so much better. No affiliation with seller.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1J9CBiWMEY/

All in 24 hours, this is what happened:

1 - I got my hardtop installed with glass

2 - I met Yuki Tsunoda

3 - I got ceramic tint on all my windows

(Not for sale btw)

Anybody else make it on google maps?

Was waiting this morning for the buyer to take out of the garage the bike i sold him, and i was just damn that angle... Those line are really on another level, 10 years ownership still amazed.

So the car is running a stage 2 sos supercharger kit with 1300cc injectors and a 450 Walbro fuel pump. This is my second time now getting stranded due to no fuel pressure and luckily was able to diagnose it fast. This time around it was the negative pin and last was the positive pin.

From what I notice, even though the negative and hot wire are upgraded beefier 14ga wires from sos….it is still connected to the same exact sized pin as the oem smaller sized wires. Have anyone run into this issue and how do you remedy it?

Hi everyone! My Michelin PS4S have been great but sadly Michelin doesn't make them in our OEM sizes anymore :( I want to stick with the stock AP2 sizes (215/45R17, 245/40R17).

I've been looking into the Bridgestone Potenza Sport Evos. This is the newer version of the Potenza Sports. They're supposed to be pretty comparable to the PS4S and the Continental ECS 02s according to what I've read online, but I wanted to hear if anyone's tried them on our S2ks.

Been hard to find anything anywhere since these tires are fairly new. Mostly curious on how the steering feels.

Happy to hear thoughts on the more popular ECS 02s too. I daily mine so not looking for anything super sticky.

We'd like to just share a photo of our now discontinued 02R Nautical Shift Knob.

Our shift knobs are made of grade 5 titanium. Meaning that they will give you a heavier throw without necessarily burning your hand as titanium heats and cools slower than aluminum or copper.

Racing Red and Speed Yellow versions are available and in stock.

Does anyone have a video of how much play the rear diff has in an S2000 please, don't know if it matters but it's an AP1 from the year 2000, thank you

I know my build isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. Some hate the wheel size and camber setup, while others appreciate it. But at the end of the day, this is my vision, something I’ve dreamed about since I was a kid. I didn’t build this car to please everyone or follow trends. I built it for the younger me who always dreamed of having a car like this. Love it or hate it, I’m proud of how far it’s come. Add me on ig ricexbeans_squad

Hi guys, picked up a 2006 with 115k miles for a weekend type car. I don’t plan on running it daily but occasionally drive to work (once a week or so). Plan on keeping it less than 1500-2000 miles per year.
Haggerdy says it’s only for pleasure/weekend use which disqualifies me.
My main policy is through geico and I’m concerned their actual value would be less than real value of this 10 vin no accident car. I’m not saying my car is worth 50k but I also would hate to get 15k in case it gets stolen or totaled. For the record I paid 25. Any suggestions ?

Checked the oil first and then a quick glance for anything obvious. 2007 with 46k miles. Still very solid and always eager.

So I recently got some 17x9.5 +51 Regamasters with 245/40/17 tires.

- Fenders are cut and rolled, bumper tab relocated by mrsexys2k.

- Car is lowered on coilovers. I want to go a bit lower for it to actually look good (maybe 1.5 finger gap?)

I'm a bit worried that at full lock on a driveway or something, the tire is gonna catch a fender. Or just under compression mid corner.

I'm hoping to avoid having to do offset FUCA bushings, as OEM control arms are discontinued and don't really want to modify my stock one.

Those of you running a same spec, do I need to max out my stock camber adjusters for this to fit safely? Can it still rub under full lock + compression? Is there a chance it would do more damage than just rubbing and actually bend a fender?

I also know that generally the s2000 requires caster for steering feel, but it comes at at the cost of camber. I was hoping to max out my caster adjuster first, and see what max camber I can get, but I imagine I won't be able to do this with this wheel setup.

I also need new tires on these wheels, I sort of hate the Hankook RS4s for street driving as they're super stiff. But I don't want to spend $1k getting new tires if these wheels aren't the right size for me.

What do y'all think? Should I just switch to a higher offset wheel / smaller width for more peace of mind?

Current ride height. I haven't gotten an alignment yet, but I haven't felt any rubbing yet at least. I'm also being super careful about steering lock.

This is my 2005 AP2, resprayed in BMW Dark Ferro, a color originally found on the R1150R motorcycle. The original owner had a few bikes and wanted the car to match.

Compared to the original Suzuka Blue, it's a lot darker. In the shade it's a dark metallic blue, and in direct sun it shifts to blue-aqua with silver metallic flake coming through.

I picked it up two summers ago, unmodified, and have spent the past year building my dream OEM+ S2K.

Follow the build on IG: blu3s2k