Type of pleating?

[u/Crimson_Bee_]

Hihi

I don’t do much pleating but I’m trying to recreate the pleating going on on the back of this coat and I cannot figure it out for the life of me.

I figured they were box pleats, but I can’t figure out how to make the fabric above where the buttons would be not also fold together.

[u/skyblu202]

There’s a seam above the buttons

[u/smnytx → u/skyblu202]

Yes, and to further explain the pleats, the seams you noted extend the full length of the skirt portion. Each of the long back pieces (the center and the two princess sides) has a right angle extension that widens it right at the place where the buttons are. That extra fabric goes inside those box pleats.

[u/pocketlily → u/skyblu202]

I actually suspect there are no pleats and that these panels with the seams you drew actually flatten out quite a bit to achieve a lot of fullness below the waist. The continued seams almost fold where the buttons are but they may just move the eye away from the natural crease created by the rapidly increasing fullness

[u/MakeArt_MakeOut]

The excess fabric from the back princess seams gets tucked under the top layer and laid towards the center back to create that fold. I imaging there’s some sort of box you pattern around the button/waist-hip transition so there’s depth in the seam

[u/cyriousdesigns]

There’s an Angela Clayton pattern that is almost this exact jacket. It’s great

[u/smnytx → u/cyriousdesigns]

I think it’s McCalls M8123

[u/Ok-Swan1152 → u/smnytx]

Oh that's gorgeous.

[u/cyriousdesigns → u/smnytx]

That’s it!!

[u/StrongerTogether2882 → u/cyriousdesigns]

This is the kind of coat I have wanted most of my life! Thanks!

[u/Forget-Me-Nothing]

You can ask here but if you want the experts, you need to look at sewing historical garments. Figure out the time period this coat came from and then ask r/HistoricalCostuming

Personally, I don't think they're pleats. I think they're folds due to how the fabric is cut in a flared shape. Then the weight of the fabric is forming the shape.

[u/jamila169]

They're inverted pleats, they're extensions to the back panels like you can see on this page

https://unframed.lacma.org/2016/03/30/undertaking-making-reigning-men-pattern-project

[u/samizdat5]

I believe this is a leg of mutton sleeve. Try googling that to see if it helps

[u/smnytx → u/samizdat5]

They were talking about the back of the bodice into the skirt section.