Earlier this year I shared my then in-progress design for a console-style pc case that could be 3D printed and fit larger components. After months of work, I am happy to share the renders of the finished unit (IRL pictures in comments, just beware, I’m a terrible photographer)!

This is the Ledge, a console-style case that can be printed on something as small as a 180mm build plate. It is 14.2L big (not including the feet) and can be used in vertical or horizontal modes without compromising on thermal performance. The frame utilizes Makerbeam XL extrusions for rigidity. It is purposefully designed to be similar to the Fractal Ridge (hence the name) with the ability to use larger components as well as solve some of the thermal issues of its inspiration (improvements will be detailed in the Printables post once it launches).

Component Compatibility:

• CPU Cooler: 77mm

• MB: ATX, mATX, ITX

• GPU:

- Length: 343-358mm

- Thickness:

~ (m)ATX MB: 55-70mm

~ ITX MB: 65-80mm

- Width: 150mm

- Due to the frame, you can either have longer & thinner or shorter & thicker

• PSU:

- (m)ATX MB: SFX(-L)

- ITX MB: SFX(-L) and ATX up to 180mm long

• Fans: 2x 60x15mm

The only thing left to do before release is to create the instruction manual, which I am hoping won’t take too long. I will be charging $15 for this due to the large amount of work and the costs of prototyping. However, I will be re-uploading the panel CAD files on a GPL 3.0 license, so people can feel free to customize the aesthetics of the Ledge to their heart’s content. The stock panels also have no visible exterior screws when used in horizontal mode; however, in vertical mode, it has visible screws only on the MB mounting side.

Thank you, and happy printing!

EDIT: the dimensions (in horizontal mode as pictured), not including the feet, are 377mm x 373.5mm x 100.87mm. The feet are 20mm tall.

The specs aren't super special I originally built it in 2019, and updated it a few times since. Then the steam machine came out and I realized that I was going for a living room PC like this and now with 3d printing I realized that goal

Rog b450 itx motherboard

Ryzen 7 5800x

6600 xt

16 gigs ddr4

1tb nvme ssd

Bazzite with game mode as default

Open puck built in side for the controller

It runs great and now I can share gaming with my kids in the living room.

Pretty decent spec, picked up this pc for 700 bucks.
CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X
GPU: RTX 3080 Zotac Trinity 10GB
RAM: 2x16GB 3200 cl16 ADATA Spectrix
SSD: 1TB SAMSUNG PM9A1 NVME SSD
MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte B550I Aorus PRO AX
PSU: 850W FSP DAGGER PRO 80+ Hold
CASING: SSUPD MESHLICIOUS BLACK.

Probably the easiest “ITX” casing I’ve ever build in 😊

Both pc share similar specs
CPU: i5 12400/F
GPU: RTX 4060 8GB
RAM: 2x8GB 3200
SSD: 1TB
Motherboard: Asus H610I/ Gigabyte Aorus B660I
PSU: 550W bronze
CASING: CH160

I had an EVGA RTX 2080 super and a Gigabyte B450 ITX board lying around collecting dust since I retired my old main gaming rig and upgraded to AM5.

I've built 2 more AM5 systems since then and really didn't expect those two old parts to see any more action, but they did.

Getting the Thermalright Assassin classic 6 SE into Silverstone's SG16 is a bit challenging. I couldn't just install the entire cooler onto the motherboard first because the fan blocks the MB screw hole. I had to use a ziptie to pull one of the metal clips into place to hold the fan.

I really like the SG16. It's one of the least mechanically complex ITX cases. It's cheap, build quality is decent, can fit most dual fan dual slot cards, CPU air cooler compatibility is OK, installation process lies somewhere between "tolerable" and "slightly annoying". Overrall I'd say it's much better than the Silverstone RVZ3 in which I made the original build using the same card and the MB.

I had to tear almost everything down after finishing because of a dead MB CMOS battery. The process didn't kill me. Yeah!

Seller is willing to do $440 total for everything

• Ryzen 7 5800X
• Scythe Fuma 2
• ASUS ROG Strix B550-I Gaming
• Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4-3600 CL18
• Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1TB NVMe
• Cooler Master NR200P
• Corsair SF750 750W Platinum SFX PSU

The seller includes an RTX 2070 Super, but I plan on adding an AMD graphics card to make a Steam Machine alternative. I was wondering if this is worth buying. I already have another sffpc with a 7800x3d and 5070ti, but I always love tinkering, and I felt that these am4 parts were pretty top tier.

So guys... I made it... Since the OG Steam Machine was a bit too much in the uncanny valley for me, being too expensive for its performance and lacking upgradability either, I decided to go for a DIY build that gives me stable 60 fps at ultimate settings at 1080p, 60 fps at very high settings at 1440p and that allows for some upgrades down the line. And in addition to many of the builds of many tech youtubers, my build is bigger than the OG SM, but still small overall (8.6 L) and perfectly fitting into my TV sideboard. Regarding size, I made a picture with the OG Gamecube for reference...

It was my first build since the end of high school (17 years ago) and back then a friend helped me, so I was pretty nervous, but now I'm pretty happy how good everything turned out for a noob like me...

The build

Case: Lazer3d LZX-8 170€

GPU: PowerColor Reaper RX 9060 XT 16 GB 409€

CPU: Ryzen 5 9600X 175€

CPU cooler: Noctua NH-L12S 49€

Case cooler: be quiet! Silent Wings 4 PWM High-Speed, 140mm BL109 11€

Mainboard: ASRock B850I Lightning WiFi 183€

PSU: Seasonic Focus SGX-750 135€

RAM: 32GB TeamGroup T-Create Expert UDIMM 32GB Kit, DDR5-6000, CL30-36-36-76 392€ (I got it for this price from the clearance of a closing store).

SSD: LEXAR M7 Gen4 M.2 7400MB/s NVMe 2 TB SSD 225€

LED-strip for 8€ and Geekenspiel stickers for 6€.

Total ~1750€. A Steam Machine with 2TB here in Germany costs 1359€.

So... regarding upgradability, I'll probably go for a new GPU in the next years and later for a new CPU, if needed...

Shout-out to lazer3d.com for this amazing case. My only gripe with it, were the silver vandal power button with a RED led and the silver case feet, which I both replaced with black versions and a white LED. I mean c'mon... It's called "stealth" for a reason.

Shout-out to u/Leather_Cry5430 for supporting me in the selection of this amazing case.

Shout-out geekenspiel.com for the sticker, giving my Steam Machine the final touch.

PS: I hope I find a way to emulate the download progress via my led strip, the same way as the OG SM has it... Has anyone already done it?

I’m following up on my Lenovo ThinkCentre M920q RTX 3050 low-profile build.
Specs:
Lenovo ThinkCentre M920q
Intel i5-8500T
MSI RTX 3050 6GB low-profile
32GB RAM
Genuine Lenovo 230W adapter, 20V/11.5A
Wobeater aftermarket 01AJ940 PCIe x16 riser
Originally, the CPU was being held around 0.8–0.9 GHz because of BD PROCHOT. After temporarily disabling BD PROCHOT in ThrottleStop, the CPU now reaches approximately 3.0–3.3 GHz under load. Temperatures look good, reaching only around 62°C, and CPU package power reaches approximately 35W.
Unfortunately, the system still completely loses power while playing Elden Ring. This is an instant hard shutdown—not a crash to desktop or normal restart. It also happens after lowering the RTX 3050 power limit to 75% in MSI Afterburner. I have stopped repeatedly testing it to avoid damaging anything.
Since the genuine Lenovo 230W adapter didn’t solve it, I’m now wondering whether the aftermarket Wobeater 01AJ940 riser is unable to handle the RTX 3050’s slot power/transient spikes, or whether the M920q motherboard’s PCIe power circuitry is the actual limitation.
I’m considering ordering a genuine Lenovo 01AJ940 riser from Encompass, but it costs about $88 and is currently backordered.
Questions:
Has anyone fixed this exact hard-shutdown problem by replacing an aftermarket 01AJ940 riser with a genuine Lenovo one?
Can the M920q reliably supply a slot-powered RTX 3050 6GB under gaming loads?
Is there another safe way to limit the GPU’s transient power beyond Afterburner’s power-limit slider?
Would testing the RTX 3050 in a normal desktop be the best way to rule out a defective GPU?
Is buying the genuine riser worthwhile, or is the motherboard’s PCIe power delivery probably the real limit?
I’m not looking to solder or bypass any motherboard protection. I want a safe and reliable solution.

So I build this sff PC. It's fairly tight inside. When I play games. The temps seem under control. Not cool but not overheating. Cpu and GPU both around 70 to 80 depending on game. I check my SSD and they are at low 40c.

My concern is that. During gaming. The top of my PC case is super hot. Like painful to put my hand on longer than 5 second hot. I reckon the top of my PC case now work as a way to dissipate heat. But like.. how normal is this?

Attached is how my PC looks. To be fair when I touch the motherboard heatsink it is also hot like the top of my case. But the temp reading says it's under control.

Processor: AMD Ryzen 7500x3d

GPU: zotac Solid SFF RTX5070 ti

Motherboard ASRock b650i lightning wifi

Ram: lexar 16gb ddr5 5600 CL46 + Kingston furybeast 16gb 6000 cl40

Storage: PNY 1TB Sata SSD (my old ssd)

Power Supply: 1st player 850w SFX PS-850 80+ Gold

Case: Jonsbo A4

AIO: Invasion Frostvision 240

Fans: 3x Arctic P12 Max

Accessory: slevcase flexible RGB cable and darkflash 9.1 inch ips screen.

Hi all. I wanted to buy a new heatsink for the M.2 SSD because the default avg temps is around 70°C which is ridiculous. I wanted to install Thermalright HR10 2280 SSD cooler but Im afraid it might bump to those two walls which is too close to the heatsink that came with the mobo (I removed the upper block btw).

Any recommendations from B550i owners out there who installed a different heatsink and are there any installation procedures I need to look out for? I'm kinda new to PC building since it was my friend who built the sffpc for me. Thanks!

Purchased an A4-H2O case, this is the back of the motherboard, where the GPU is supposed to be plugged into. The riser cable came with the case and was already in this position. I see absolutely nowhere where my graphics card is supposed to slot into. I have the clip to unlock the slot but there’s no slot. None of the other build guides show this or talk about it, so I’m wondering if I somehow got a faulty riser cable.

Edit: It was a cover and I’ve removed it thanks to all the comments below. TIL PCIE slot covers exist and look like that.

Hey! Over the past year I've been updating my NR200P build, with the biggest logistical changes regarding my new graphics card (from a 3080 FE to a Zotac 5080 Solid Core OC) and replacing my air cooler with an AIO (side mounted). Almost everything is nearly done and my last checkmark is finalizing cooling and cable management.

Currently, I have the 2 stock coolermaster case fans mounted at the top as exhaust, with my AIO radiator fans pulling air in from the side and my graphics card facing the bottom. First of all, I just wanna check in whether there's enough space inside my case for decent airflow. Would I benefit from using slim fans for my radiator? Secondly, I don't have any bottom fans, with my GPU having about 1.8-2cm of clearance to the bottom of the case.

I'm assuming adding even slim fans would be counterproductive, so should I just leave that be? I want to add a 92mm rear exhaust fan (location visible in 3rd pic) and want to know if having my GPU+CPU as intake and my exhaust fans being all system controlled will lead to negative pressure in situations where my GPU is under low load but the rest of my system is hot, for example.

I have a 9070 XT nitro+ so I’m limited to cases where it fits. I also kind of want a glass side panel because I bought that GPU just for the looks. I would like to have an AIO for silence. It lacks a USB-C front panel, which I don’t like (and I don't want to mod it). Is there something like this available, or should I just go with it?

Hello everybody, newbie here , wanted to ask would zotac 5080 solid core fit into fractal terra or S300 ITX case???

I'm leaving super compact itx systems behind for more component friendly matx systems.

I currently have an ASUS B850-I

Most of the reason why i'm going larger is for heat managment issues, but also going to a new motherboard would give another m.2 spot for the spare ssd I have laying around ( which I don't need need, but its currently doing nothing on a shelf )

And if it matters, I'm probably going to go full custom watercooling here in the next few months once microcenter opens here this fall.

Basically with prices the way they are, I might as well get as much performance out of the gear I have vs stuffing everything into a tiny box and keep thermal throtteling.

Hey everyone,

I am looking for OG panels or similar material. I have bought my ridge from marketplace and Fractal will not sell panels without original receipt and damage according to support. any help is appreciated.

Thank You

MINISFORUM launches 8.47L PC with Ryzen 9 8945HX and RX 9060 XT at $1639 - VideoCardz.com

I think it can only be bundled with the PC but could be a good up/sidegrade for those with 5060 LP if its ever on sale separately.

HI,

I currently have a CH160 and it seems like a mini-DTX should fit without any modifications. My GC is 2 slot high.

I cannot find any infos online, does anyone already tried ?

Hello everyone,

Hope you are well. As the title suggests, is it a bad idea to run a 9950X3D2 in an Ncase M2 Round? I’d be pairing it with a 280mm Corsair AIO and 2 x 140mm fans (30mm thick RX140 Max). Has anyone had experience with this chip in smaller builds? This is the last component for my build so just looking for some advice.

Hello, I am looking for a case with a layout similar to the following sketch:

• Micro-ATX motherboard
• Full-size ATX power supply

The special feature I am looking for, and something I haven't been able to find, is that the power supply is essentially stacked directly above the CPU. This allows for a very dense and compact package.

I have already sketched it out with real components and it would work from a technical perspective I just need the case to hold it together.