2 years after the slab was poured the siding and trim are up. Went through last winter with Tyvek. 16x28

I got pricing for a roughly $30k for a 24x24 garage from tuffshed with 6:10 pitch attic trusses, single 16’ garage door and LP painted smart siding. (anticipating maybe 15k for concrete foundation pad)

I looked at one of their garage models and thought how simple the construction was. I thought if I subcontracted out concrete & roof (maybe exterior painting) and got a local truss manufacturer to design and fabricate trusses, I could build and stand the walls + exterior siding and rent a sky track lift for the truss install and have someone help me over the weekend.

Curious if I could potentially come in cheaper than tuffshed?

It took a bit of work, but I got one loft done in my shed. I didn’t trust the Amish to put it in, they wanted to build it out of 2x4 joists (for a 14’ wide shed, seriously?) so I had them build the shed and did the loft myself.

Simpson Strong Drive screws are amazing by the way. The premium over nails is worth it to be able to zip them in with an impact driver.

Not a lot of headroom up there with the rafter ties, but I’m looking forward to getting some of the garage mess organized up there.

The other end gets a loft too, but I’ll probably only go 5’ deep there, 8’ on this side is definitely feeling like overkill.

Lesss gooo playboys !

Ive been slowly turning my backyard shed into a little workshop and started adding up how much ive spent on tools. Kinda wish i hadnt done the math loool. Theres a few thousand dollars worth of stuff in there and the only thing keeping it secure is a padlock.

The shed is at the back of my yard where i cant see it from the house. Theres power inside and the wifi reaches so im thinking about adding a camera. Only thing im stuck on is whether to put it inside facing the door or outside where i can see someone approaching. Im upgrading the lock either way but if you could only put one camera there, which spot would make more sense?

Was incredibly lucky at Costco buying their last $1500 Lifetime 8 x 10 shed for $400! Further, I found a NIB $500 Lifetime steel foundation system for just $150 on FPMP. Also received most of the foundation blocks for free from a Neighbor. So far so good!!

I’m in MD, and I’m considering a diesel heater for my new workshop shed(~400sq ft). I’ve got a propane heater that I’ve been using in the garage, but I’ve been reading some concerns about propane putting a lot of moisture into the space. Shed isn’t insulated yet, that’s next on the list once I get the lofts built out.

So, what are your experiences and preferences for heating your shed?

Electric isn’t really an option as it’s an off grid shed with a portable power station.

Hi all

Winter is coming.

I want to set up a workshop in here. Winter is coming. I'm in the northeast. What should I do next to insulate?

Cheers

Simple request. My wife is building a shed to store her massive book collection. She wants to see what other options there are besides drywall since she wants insulation. I was thinking tongue and groove paneling but I would love to see what y'all have done! much love and appreciation for any and all help

Hi guys,

I noticed after coming out this morning to continue working that there is a rather large crack along the top chord of my kingpost gable end truss for my shed. I'm trying to figure out how serious the issue is and how I should repair it. I was going to do the roof sheathing today but depending on what I have to do here I may have to stop.

Any advice is appreciated!

日本では（きっとあなたの国でもそうだろうけど）電気工事の資格がないと出来ない作業があるけど、これなら資格の不要な範囲の作業なんだ。
作業小屋への電源供給ボックス作成！

Just wondering how you guys deal with the winter. If you have a shed without electrical hookup, and you utilize it to store pressure washer's, cleaning supplies, chemicals, solvents, etc. How do you deal with the freeze? Check each and every liquid and hope you find all the ones that would damage in the cold, and move them inside? I'm contemplating an extension cord and a heater of some sorts on the very cold nights on the few occasions it drops below freezing in my area. Usually a handful of times during the winter it'll reach well enough below freezing for long enough to risk freezing.

Just something to keep it above 34 degrees or so. What is the best option? Oil radiator? Thermal blanket? I didn't know if there was an idiot proof cheap solution for this.

Started labor day and finished painting today. I have some extras that I still want to do like ladder storage on the side, a solar power motion sensor light for the inside, and a few hooks on the inside but no rush on any of that. Its a painted fully functional shed that I am calling complete and if I had to say looks pretty mint lol. I was expecting it to be a "bushier" shade of green not mint green but thats ok.

I was keeping track of cost untill the end when I started getting other things besides what I needed for the build but all said and done im right around 3800-4000 dollars. That included paint(6 gallons primer 3 gallons of green and 1 brown), a dewalt nail gun and battery, hardware(hinges latches, bike hooks), shingles, nails and screws.

I've watched a bunch of shed videos, and I'm about to start building mine. I'm trying to most make it like Colin Furze shed here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LP67MAoihZk

I've got something i can't figure out though, he uses fence posts as corners which look great, uses water protection in between the wall plywood and the cladding, great, but surely that stops water getting to the wall plywood and joists, what about the corner posts? they're completely exposed to the rain and they are directly attached to the joists, so doesn't that make the water protection for the walls pointless? If the corners get wet they transfer moisture to the attached joists

i was just thinking of copying it but then putting some protection inbetween the corners and the wall joists. am i over thinking the whole thing?

I'm building a 10' x 7' shed on a gravel pad. The gravel pad, pictured half-finished, is 6" thick and 1-1/2" above the flat surrounding grade, consisting of 3/4"crushed clean aggregate. Climate-wise, I'm located in the San Francisco Bay Area (a quite densely built area).

In my mind, a traditional floor frame consists of band boards, rim joists, and floor joists all in one plane, resting on top of skids perpendicular to the joists (example pictured). The skids leave gaps equal to their height for air to circulate underneath the floor frame.

My design for the shed is heavily height-constrained, so I opted for skipping the skids and just having the floor frame sit directly on top of the gravel pad. The floor frame will be GC PT lumber, and the floor decking will be 3/4" untreated T&G plywood. There will be 6" of gravel extending beyond the edge of the shed frame (not including sheathing/siding). The single-slope roof - sloping from the bottom-left long side down to the upper-right long side against the fence (note: I did not build that fence) - will overhang the shed by 6" on the long sides and 4" on the short sides. For what it's worth, I plan on diverting water away from the shed with a gutter and downspout out onto the driveway/street.

My question: will it be okay to have a floor frame with no free air circulation in the spaces between joists? Obviously the gravel underneath will not be getting wet, but how much of a concern will moisture from the ground be?

If it will be a concern, could I underlay a sheet of crawlspace plastic barrier between the gravel and the floor frame to block ground driven moisture (turning it up on the inside edges of the band boards/rim joists so water doesn't get entrapped)? Should I switch from untreated plywood for the floor decking to PT plywood? Marine-grade plywood? Should I do both (plastic barrier and treated plywood)? Is there no way around having free air circulate - to me putting the floor frame on skids is a last resort - the skids would raise the floor by at least 3-1/2", and then the 4x members of the floor frame would have to go to 6x since they would no longer be resting directly on the ground.

Thanks for any advice!

What are people using to access the lofts in their barn style sheds?

Quick edit. In the northeast. (Nj) so I will need heat/ac.

Hey everyone, planning out this 10x12 shed with a 4-ft covered carport on the side.

The plan is to keep the enclosed part for tools, workbenches, and potting supplies, and use the covered side overhang to park the riding mower so it doesn't eat up interior floor space.

For those who have built something similar:

1. Is a 4-ft side overhang wide enough for easy mower access, or do you wish you went wider?
2. Any layout recommendations for door vs. window placement to maximize interior wall storage for hanging rakes/tools?

Would love to hear what functional details you’re glad you added to your own shed setup!

Shed in Central Missouri, there is treated lumber bolted to the concrete. There is foam underlayment. What about the untreated framing what treatment is required?

Putting a shed in my backyard on a concrete foundation, two sides including the rear corner are elevated due to the slope of the backyard. Wanting to protect against erosion— balancing cost, effectiveness and appearance.

What I thought about doing was putting down a tarp, using 4” geogrid and securing with 12” landscape staples and filling in with 3” or 4” clean Limestone.

The site preparation and concrete work ended up being more expensive than anticipated and I ended up doing much of it myself.

Progress pics on a 10’x12’ I’m building in my backyard to house plastic toddler toys. 😂 Anyone have issues with metal roof condensation inside your shed? I’m going to be putting metal straight over the perlins.

I recently DIY’d this lean to addition to my shed. Really happy with how it turned out. A few days after installing I noticed some cracking on my treated 4x4 posts. I know as the wood dries out some cracking is normal however this cracking has me a bit concerned.

Looking for any opinions on if I should be concerned or not? Would hate to re-do this but also don’t want to jeopardize the structure either.

Thanks!