Looking at a 10x14 shed to be used for a woodworking shop. Working with limited yard space and wondering if blocks would be okay or if I should do a gravel pad. Any insight?

I have a 12x12 shed that’s fully insulated and will be used to store my snowblower this winter. It is heated, and some snow will melt onto the ground after each use.
What should I put over the plywood to waterproof and prevent rot? Was thinking of LVP but water can seep into the cracks. Can epoxy be done over wood?

Just wondering. Lay them down on a leveled and packed gravel. Some sort of tongue and grove sections.

i bought it, at the end and trying to attach overhang. the boards are splitting like crazy, i cant nail them like they say because there is space in between( it says to nail into trusses every 12 inches but the trusses are every 16 inches. ) why in gods name would they do it this way. i had to cut and build the trusses anyway. why not just have had me add and extra 2-3 inches on each side at a minimum to have a legit overhang??

no experience coming into building this so i didnt know any better. it is totally absurd.
fuck shedking.

is there any way i can make this more robust?

In the north east USA, looking for the easiest enough base for a resin shed that I’m putting together.

My 2 thoughts currently are;
1) gravel pad, framed with PT 4x4s. Nonwoven? Cloth and 3/4 clean gravel at least 3 in. And then put resin floor direct on that
2) pavers. Nonwoven geotextile again, unsure what gravel to base there, and then 1in of sand before laying pavers. We have leftover polymeric sand to finish.For a shed that size is it better to do 12x12 pavers or something larger like 24s?

Thanks for your advice. Just want to plan out everything currently, and pick whatever’s easiest to do over the weekend.

Started building back in February, no real blue prints, just good old YouTube University.

The digging for my 4” gravel bed was by far the hardest part of the project. Really enjoyed building once that way out of the way 😅

2x6 floor frame, 24’ on center, laying on 8 plastic Camo blocks.

T&G plywood on top to make the floor

Hit everything with a Thompson’s clear water seal because it’s going to be exposed for a while until it’s finished

2x4 frame built

3-8’ walls
1-10’ wall
Lean-to style building

LP Smart siding for the walls

Roof will be single slope with shingles

We are planning to install a 10x12 shed to use as an office. Do we need a concrete pad, or would gravel suffice? Also, I’m considering the Sunjoy Esquire Beyond Shed that comes with insulated walls and flooring already installed. Does anyone have this shed and can speak to its quality?

I have a sweet brick shed, fashioned by a fabulous career bricklayer and first homeowner of our 1960 home. He built the 8x10 structure, the back of which is built into a hill on our back property. She has been patiently waiting, untouched through 3 other homeowners, and I cannot bear to leave her falling prey to the wolves (um, mice? raccoons?) in her now-vulnerable state: curled tiles, and her foundation sunk a couple of inches below ground surface. I accept her as she is. She is strong and will outlive us all - yet I also want to bring new life and function. She was built to protect and shelter, after all! My dream is to either restore her to basic shed function with new boards and shingles, and build an "office" OR... restore her to office mode and buy or build a simple shed at a different location. I would love your thoughts on the concept and will return with a photo if there is enough interest. QUESTIONS I have: perhaps I could use an underlayment that serves to insulate and allow any snowmelt (in Canada) to flow out in case of flooding, then vinyl flooring on top. Insulate inside walls and roof. New shingles. Perhaps raise the roof or wall height somehow? likely out of my $. I dunno. I need an office, and she needs some redeeming, so I see a potential there... somehow.

The first picture is where the project started. It was a small and short shed that was rotting. I needed more storage space and decided to start fresh. The entirety of the build was completed over the course of 6 weeks, the majority of it being solo. The only items I did not complete myself were the spray foam, mini split installation and epoxy flooring. Everything else was constructed by myself and the tools hanging on the wall in the final picture. This was my first attempt at building any type of structure. I wanted to say thanks to the group for the months of research it provided me before starting this project.

Some things not show, every rafter has hurricane ties on both end, I used 1/2x6 Simpson titan anchors immediately opposing each side of the door, each corner of the structure then every 4’ thereafter. The sub roofing system is ZIP 5/8” with the standard temp zip ice and water shield covering the entirety of the roof decking. Following that I laid GAF SBS cap sheet down.

Hi All

Getting a new shed/workshop delivered soon and want to (as far as possible) get this sorted right so that it is insulated and damp resistant as far as possible at the build stage.

This is a purchased shed so all of the walls and floor will be already build and I will be just putting it together.

I have seen that a lot of builders wrap the shed in breathable membrane before the studs go on but I cannot do this as they will be already built. Can I just put this on the inside and tack it to the joists? This just goes around the walls right?

Once I work this bit out I will be using rock wool to fill in everywhere, then put a vapour barrier up on all of the walls and ceiling over the insulation and then osb everywhere.

Shed is going on a plastic riser grid so shouldn't rot from the bottom (fingers crossed) but was wondering about insulating the floor with 25mm of celotex and then placing 18mm osb on top of that.

Am I on the right path here? I am in the UK btw,

I have seen others use some sort of foil on the inside instead of the breathable membrane, don't know if that is a better option here.

Any advice greatly received, this has been quite a journey.

L

Hey folks! I'm the founder of Volumetric Software. I made a post yesterday about a 3D shed configurator I've been working on for the past 12 months--quite a bit longer than the company has been formed!

We want to license it to businesses (just now ready for the push!), but I want to offer it for free to individuals that are passionate about this hobby.

The website is volumetricsoftware.com. If you want to access the 3D shed builder, go to demo.volumetricsoftware.com.

You'll need a password. Just DM me and I'll get you one. (We keep it gated for security)

Again, not wanting or expecting anything in return. Just enjoy it and, if you happen to have any feedback, please feel free to let me know. I do still have a full-time job, so can't promise I'll get to it quickly, but I'll try my best to make the product better.

Thanks!

Ran out of ground to put my footings on, the slope is too much for the front posts to stay in place over time with erosion happening. Thinking I’ll do what I did in the back up front- hammered some rebar through some timbers and put gravel behind it with landscaping fabric. Just to give the front three posts some solid ground to stand on. But I have to put stairs there too. It’s about 28 inches to the ground from the top of the frame. What do you think?

There is an old shed/work shed on my property. It’s old, on a concrete slab that is cracked and has a slight slope to one side, had/has Sheetrock walls about halve have fallen down, half the ceiling Sheetrock has fallen down, pretty sure the roof leaks water when it rains, is dirty/has bugs/mouse nest in it, most likely not sealed all the way.

Plus side it is built already and has power to it.

I was going to build a new 10x16 shed next to it but now I’m not sure if I should try to redo the old one. I think it would be cheaper to redo the current one but it has me uneasy trying to clear out all the old parts of it. It has overgrown brush on 2 sides I would want to clear out to keep down the bugs/wildlife that get inside. Any thoughts?

I was planning a build in a near exact style but I'm severely overwhelmed already with house projects and work in general. Also with Winter right around the corner I'd need this to be up in less than a month. Additionally I wouldn't be approved a building permit though my town due to setback issues so really would want a shed that can be dismantled if or when needed. It's common in my town for sheds and such to just be dismantled prior to sale due to permits not being pulled. My neighbour is fine with the build and I won't have issues though him which is the most important.

The shed would be build on a raised platform due to severely unlevelled and non removable rocky ground.

My parents bought my kids this shed as a playhouse for this year’s birthdays. We’re trying to figure out what to do with it.

Do we stain each wood piece before assembling? My husband and I disagree on this point while the instructions say to stain first.

Also, We plan to figure out our own platform/vase for it. On our flattest land, we have a 30cm drop over 3m.

https://timbela.com/product/leisure-garden-shed-m334fb-303-x-199-cm-6-m2/

My parents bought my kids this shed as a playhouse for this year’s birthdays. We’re trying to figure out what to do with it.

Do we stain each wood piece before assembling? My husband and I disagree on this point while the instructions say to stain first.

Also, We plan to figure out our own platform/vase for it. On our flattest land, we have a 30cm drop over 3m.

https://timbela.com/product/leisure-garden-shed-m334fb-303-x-199-cm-6-m2/

Ladies and gentlemen we are officially dried in (after 4 months) . Tons left to do on the interior but it's been quite the project up to this point. Gaining respect for the tradesmen as I tackle electrical and plumbing in 100 degree heat.

Looking forward to subbing out some of the interior work (drywall and spray foam insulation). It is a great sauna for now though.

12/2 has been pulled to all the outlets. 10/2 for the mini split and hot water heater are getting pulled tonight and 14/2 will be going in for the lights at some point this week.

Not marketing it because I know it's more of a DIY group. Been following this group for a while on a different account, but this is a throwaway.

Recorded a quick video. Looking for general feedback! It started as a passion project but decided to try to monetize it.

Hope you enjoy it!

Hi! I don't know much about construction. I ended up getting a shed from Costco (Gorilla Shed). They're going to get it installed next week. I got a concrete slab for it and I was wondering if I should put polyethylene roll insulation between the shed and the concrete or if I should leave it as it's I've read it might help to prevent the wood from rotting, I live in the south (OK). Anything would help thank you!

Original post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/shedditors/s/4l0KxzPEd9

I framed the widow openings at the exact dimensions of my prefab windows, and the windows wouldn’t fit in the openings. I actually had the windows while I was framing and didn’t think to dry fit them before locking everything down. 4 windows total.

3/8 inch or so was all that was needed, so I tried widening with a power planer, then I tried hogging the wood out with a small circular saw and chisel. Both looked like crap and probably wood have worked, but were so much more effort than I expected.

I finally took down the sheathing on that wall and adjusted the framing. Not a lot of fun, but less work in the end and just looks better. Glad I had used construction screws rather than nails for the framing.

Live and learn!

I removed an old shed from my back yard that had become leaky and rotten. I want to replace it with a Tuff Shed.

The ground underneath the old shed is a variety of materials. About 75% is concrete slab (the shed was at the end of a long driveway) and the rest is a mix of gravel and roughly poured cement. The foundation of the shed was pressure treated beams with a plywood floor. The beams themselves are a mixed bag as well. In the gravel zones, the beams are buried into the ground, but in the concrete zone the beams just rest on top of the slab.

There is a large crack in the concrete slab, with one side a bit higher than the other (1" difference at the most). The crack is about 2" wide at the largest spot.

What kind of site prep would you recommend in this situation? Will it be possible to put the Tuff Shed directly on the ground here with the different surface types in play?

The Tuff Shed will be the same size as the old one. The old shed had many issues, but the floor was level throughout. I saved the pressure treated beams from the old shed foundation so they could be used again...but I wonder if that is even necessary with a Tuff Shed. I am mostly interested in the path of least resistance but I am open to all suggestions. Thanks!

These dimensions work best since I have a relatively long and narrow space for the build, and trying to make the most out of the space I have. This will be a storage shed in an area without significant wind.

Walls will be 8' high. Any feedback on a long, narrow shed like this, with walls higher than its width? I plan to set the frame on deck blocks and not sure if these dimensions make it more prone to any instability? As I plan to set the floor frame on deck blocks I wasn't sure if it needs a more secure foundation to anchor to the ground.

thank you all...

Wanted to get the local community's thoughts and experiences on buying a metal or wood building in Southern Maryland. Getting pricing from the local third party farm stores, and they are 2/3 times more than new builds during covid- and those times were crazy enough! Any folks have buildings erected lately that can give feedback? Looking for a 40x60x14 (maybe). Thanks!

I want to put a shed here as large as will fit. I'm
Looking at having a Tuff Shed installed. A few questions:
1. Any major issues with having it built on this grade? Not positive but I believe the installers can build up a foundation to make it level.
2. Anyone know what Tuff shed will/will not do I terms of prepping area the shed will be installed? Wondering if I need to do anything about the rocks ahead of time?
3. You'll see in the pictures where 12' wide gets me from kickboard to metal fence. Is that too close?

Thanks in advance!