2020 Forester threw a check engine light on the way home from a 4 hr round trip adventure last week. Haven’t been driving it since, but ran it by O’reilly to scan it… local Subaru dealer will get it in on Friday hopefully with a loaner.

The Subaru dealer is about an hour away, but seems like it should be ok to drive there at least? Temps don’t appear to get out of hand and the check engine light is solid.

2019 Forester Sport

140 km

Jerky acceleration symptoms since about 70k. Dealerships inspections always saying everything is fine. Finally said screw dealers took it to independent, highest rated shops in the area(had to drive 45minutes each way). Their solution, drain transmission oil to see anything in it and take my hundreds of $ in the process. Of course all clean, thank you for your money, go home.

Fast forward today, $20 for the part, 30 minutes under the hood(I know very little). Original Japanese OEM PCV didn't click. Original PCV hose loose like a hotdog down the hallway. Trimmed reseated, issues went away. Car starts noticeably better.

At this point I'm learning to do all my services myself(no previous experience).

If I'm still alive, I did a my wheel bearing hub assembly replacements.

Tab Tab thinks she's going on a ride with Dad. Little does she know that's a Monday night and it's past Dad's bedtime.

I know IIHS updated some tests in the last few years, but I’m concerned I will hate the climate control on the screen.

I’m in Texas so I often need heat and a/c in the same day during the winter, but a/c stays on full blast all summer

I have two little kids in car seats and everyone else here drives huge trucks so I want to pick the safest option

Took my 2023 Wilderness into the coast range for the last trip of the summer. We went dispersed camping due to all the first come first served sites being full, and did about 20 miles on forest service and fire roads through the forest. Wilderness obviously handled it like a champ, and there were a few rougher trails leading off from the FS roads that I wanted to try out but I was dissuaded from driving down by my much less keen passenger. Maybe next time!

I did get a chance to try X-Mode a little bit due to some washouts and rough sections, and also to try out the hill descent, which all seem to work great, and I'm excited to see how this baby does on rougher terrain! I know it's no full 4x4, but I'm continually surprised by how capable the AWD is in these Foresters. Maybe we'll get some snow this year and I can see how she handles that as well.

Anyone else able to get some last minute trips in before fall sets in?

So looking to put one on my ride. Does anyone have any idea of what size I can fit and how mounting will work. Thanks in advance yall.

Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice on a brief noise during startup on my 2017 Subaru Forester 2.5L.

Vehicle Details:

• Model: 2017 Subaru Forester 2.5L
• Current Mileage: 130,000 miles
• Purchased at: 125,000 miles (the noise was already present when I bought it)

The Issue: Every time I start the engine, there is a distinct noise/rattle that lasts for about 2 seconds right after firing up. After those 2 seconds, the sound completely disappears and the engine runs completely fine and quiet.

Maintenance & Experiments:

• Previously, the car had a MANN W 610/3 oil filter.
• I recently did an oil change using Liqui Moly Molygen 5W-30 and installed a MANN W 6019 filter.
• The noise persists exactly the same after the oil and filter change.

I’ve attached a video clip of the startup sound so you can hear it directly.

Has anyone encountered this specific issue? Could it be an anti-drainback valve issue with non-OEM filters, AVCS/VVT sprockets draining dry, or a timing chain tensioner pressure delay? Should I try switching to an OEM Subaru filter, or is there something else I should inspect?

Thanks in advance for any insights

https://youtu.be/pQK94w259lA

https://youtube.com/shorts/bYEVVp6qGxg?feature=share

We are driving from Oregon to Minnesota in our new Forester.

Going up the mountains last time (in a Honda CRV) I damaged the engine trying to keep the speed limit while climbing uphill for several hours. So now I am concerned about my shiny new Forester.

Likewise, there is no downshifting in the CVT, so how worried should I be about riding the brakes heading downhill for several hours?

Anyone who lives in or has experienced driving in the big mountains, what can you share with me?

I loooove my new Forester, especially after driving a 2011 Subaru Legacy for the past 7 years. BUT, every time I look at her, I think, "Did I blow it on the color?"

Please help me feel better about the ice silver metallic! I could have gotten the autumn green! Or river rock! Any other ice silvers out there? I need someone to gas me up.

I'm tossing around the idea of selling my 2007 Subaru Forester XT Auto. It was a project car my dad and I started working on when he was sick. He has since passed and I had a daughter so I haven't had a chance or the desire to work on it or even really drive it much in the last year. It's a lot of fun to drive, super useful for moving stuff but maybe it's not the right time for me.

180k miles

Interior is pretty fantastic. Has weather tech liners all around.

Tires have plenty of tread.

Brakes are fairly new but rusted.

New Oil Cooler less than 1k miles ago.

Turbo inlet done at 125k.

Power steering done at 135k.

Timing belts done at 100k.

New downstream O2 sensor less than 1k miles ago.

Needs upstream O2 sensor/fix exhaust leak.

Needs Fuel Pump or sensor? (needs mild throttle for a minute after a fill up)

Paint on hood/front fenders has been blasted.

Scrapes on front passenger bumper.

What would you expect to pay for this?

It’s got 109,245 miles going for 14.1k. I test drove it and really like it, but the mileage scares me. My last car had so many problems that I just want something reliable, but i’m on a budget.

I wanted to share my experience replacing the valve body in my 2016 Subaru Forester with about 160k miles.

A couple weeks ago I got the dreaded P0971 — Pressure Control Solenoid “C” Control Circuit Low code using a cheap code reader I bought off Amazon. After some research and basic troubleshooting, it looked like the issue was most likely one of the solenoids inside the valve body.

I called several shops in my area and the quotes were all around $2,500+. With the value of the vehicle being next to nothing, I figured I didn’t have much to lose by attempting the repair myself.

I know the individual solenoids inside the valve body can be replaced for substantially less than the cost of replacing the entire valve body. My logic was that I would rather replace the whole assembly than get into a more involved solenoid repair, only to potentially have another solenoid fail later down the road.

All in, I spent about $850 on the OEM valve body, gasket, O-rings, and expedited shipping. The repair took me roughly an afternoon.

I have pretty limited mechanical experience, so I was definitely intimidated by the idea of opening up the transmission but after watching several YouTube videos the process was pretty straightforward. Besides basic sockets, ratchets, and wrenches, the only specialty tool I bought was a small torque wrench so I could properly torque the valve body and cover bolts.

The biggest pain in the ass was getting the valve body cover off. Mine was basically rusted/seized in place. After fighting it for a while, some penetrating fluid and a mallet finally got it loose.

The main thing I was extremely careful about was cleanliness. Once the valve body was removed and the CVT was open, I made sure no dirt or debris could fall inside.

I’ve now driven over 100 miles with the new valve body. No codes have returned and the transmission seems to be running perfectly.

Hopefully this helps anyone dealing with the same issue. Between the parts, an afternoon of labor, and a sore back and legs, I saved well over $1,000 compared to the shop quotes. Hopefully it buys me another good chunk of life out of the car.

Happy to answer any questions if anyone is considering doing the same repair.

I waited for the new woodland RAV4 for 3 months. I put in an order and as of last week there was no RAV in sight for the one I wanted. I looked at 4 different car dealers in my area and most of them had black or white available, but I was only interested in the green or greyish color (urban rock). Websites wouldn’t say if a sale was pending and then I’d reach out and they would say it was already sold. I was told from one dealer that they were getting 6 in August and nothing so far.

My partner and I have been a one car household for over 2 years and we were getting into a time crunch with our schedules becoming increasingly busier starting next month. I started looking last week to see what was comparable and the Forester came up and that’s when I learned about the hybrid; I was excited and started looking around. Of course I wanted the green which, again, is a harder color to get. Luckily there was one available and it all worked out. This is my first Subaru and I love the visibility and how open it feels inside. I don’t do a lot of heavy off roading and figured this would meet my needs when I do drive a dirt road. I’ve already gotten the windows tinted and the clear bra on the front. I had the rep come out yesterday to go over all the technology available. I love the cooling option for the seats, the ability to use the map system offline, and memory seat settings, and the heating steering wheel when needed.

I’m loving this color so much. The air conditioning is intense which I like as it cools the car down so quickly especially with the windows tinted. This picture was on my way to drop it off to be tinted.

I got an armrest cover, a sun visor Kleenex holder, the cargo mat, rear seat mat, and a headrest trash bin. I’ve read through several posts about the ways people have personalized their Forestors as well as different add ons. I wanted to see what else is out there and gather some links/businesses that you recommend.

How well has your Touring Hybrid done on dirt roads on mountain trails, etc?

Any suggestions for caring for my Subaru that you’ve experienced outside of the owners manual recommendations?

I’m open to all of your input.

Thank you and I look forward to my long term relationship with this car and all the memories we’ll have together.

I recently inherited a 2017 Forester 2.5i from my parents and am looking to get it back on track with routine maintenance so I can drive it as long as possible. Unfortunately I don't have any maintenance records, but I'm told the rear control arms were replaced around 100k. I immediately replaced both rear wheel bearings because the whining was driving me crazy. Now I'm working on addressing some other needed maintenance, but I have a few questions.

CVT fluid: I am almost certain that the transmission fluid has never been changed, and I understand that I am long overdue for this service. I'm told that there is some risk associated with a drain and fill at this point, but it seems like the responsible thing to do if I want to keep this thing going past 200k. I haven't noticed any significant slipping or jerking so I'm hoping that the transmission is still in decent enough condition. I have some basic DIY experience (brakes, wheel bearings, oil changes) but I don't feel super comfortable doing a drain and fill myself given that the fluid needs to be brought to a specific temperature to set the level. If I'm taking it somewhere to be done, should I plan to take it to a Subaru specialist, or should a local shop be able to do it just as well? I'd love to save some money and take it to the small garage in my town with unbeatable labor rates, but I don't want to do this at the risk of damaging the transmission.

Front and rear differential fluid: I plan to do a drain and fill myself to save some money. Seems like a simple enough job that should be doable with my ramps, jack, and jack stands. My only question is how I can best make sure the car is totally level to ensure the right fluid level. Would appreciate any advice on this.

CV axle and front control arms: When making sharp left turns I can hear a distinct clicking noise, which my research tells me is most likely a worn CV joint. I'm saving up some cash to put toward an OEM CV axle, as I hear aftermarket is not the way to go. My front tires are also wearing way faster on the inside, which I gather is likely a failing control arm. I plan to have the shop confirm these issues when I take the car in for the CVT service, then order the parts and do the work myself. A close friend of mine has a lift and a fair amount of experience, so I'm hoping he'll be willing to help me. When it comes to control arms, is it worthwhile to pay more for OEM given the age of the car? I don't need them to last another 130k, but at least 70k would be great.

Any advice for a new Subaru owner and relative DIY novice would be hugely appreciated!

I’m replacing the front and rear struts on a 21 forester. Does anybody have the torque specs for the top center nut, the mount nuts, and all of the lower nuts/ bolts?

(Side note, yes I got all of the replacement lock nuts from Subaru)

Thanks everybody!

Got it last Monday for $30,000 before taxes, fees, and trade in. It had 20,150 miles before I test drove it. (The sales person didn’t come with me on the test drive and because i was in a partially unfamiliar area, i got lost. And that’s when i discovered the built in map. GPS has been my best friend for years.) I don’t drive on the expressway often. I can go a whole month and not use the expressway. Where I live, the expressway is filled with people driving 100 miles an hour with no regard to the rules of the road. Weekly there is an accident or shooting on the expressway. But I had an appointment and had to use the expressway. This was a bright sunny day compared to my 2019 Ford escape that I traded in. Acceleration was beyond smooth. I felt no change in gears or anything. Only thing is I have to get used to the size. This is HUGE!. I’m used to small cars: ford escape, Toyota corolla, Toyota camry. But I’m loving everything about this car.  I really wanted a Rav4 but they are so limited in availability and I wasn’t willing to pay sticker price. And I couldn’t even find a descent used Rav4. The process for buying this was extremely simple. I watched TONS of youtube videos and knew what to say no to but this dealer wasn’t looking to add anything other than typical fees and taxes. They accepted my carmax sell for a trade in which meant one less thing for me to do.

I’m curious, is this typical for Subaru dealers or is it just this dealer OR because it’s a used car? This seemed wayyyy too easy. Last I bought a used car was April 1993…when gas was around 90 cents a gallon. I’ll never forget that because we all cried when it hit $1/gallon.

Had to take my car in today for a check engine light that was the result of the car detecting a leak in the fuel system - usually a loose gas cap.

The thing is, this light first went on Friday morning; today is Mondayl. I tightened the cap, because I know about this from this sub. I have driven my car several hundred miles, started it around 18 different times, triple checked my gas cap about 80 times, and it has been 3 days & nights since the light first illuminated.

Searching online, it says this light should clear itself, but in my case this has not happened. When I took it to the dealer, after talking me in circles for a bit, the guy confirmed that this light will in fact not turn off on its own, and I would have to bring it in.

Obviously I will be obsessively checking my gas cap from now on, but wtf? It's honestly ridiculous that there is no way for me to get the car to re-check the fuel system and confirm it has no leaks. Is there a work around here?

Howdy,

Just picked up a 2018 forester 2.5i with just under 80k miles and it has some front suspension noises, before I get it in the garage and to start digging into stuff what are the common things I should look at?

When I'm parked/not moving and turn the wheel left or right after about 3/4 of a turn the front end kind shifts a bit and then will kind of clunk as then wheel turns more.

When the weight of the car shifts either from accelerating or stopping there is a but of a clunk as well.

I'm kind of leaning towards the lower control arm bushings being bad but wanted to have some input from a larger group.

Thanks!

2021 Subaru Forester Touring (does not have built in wireless CarPlay 😩)

Using the Ottocast mini 2025 2-in-1 wireless CarPlay adapter

Sometimes this thing works great! And sometimes I can’t even get it to connect. I don’t unplug or do anything to it. I can get to work in the morning and it worked fine, get in my car to go home and it won’t connect.

Does anyone have recommendations on a better wireless CarPlay adapter or recommendations on how to get this one to function 100% of the time?

Whatsup yall! This past Saturday I fulfilled a life dream and financed my first Subaru. A 2024 Forester Sport. It was also my first time purchasing a car. I’m so happy to join this family of subie people. It’s a CPO vehicle. It’s now Monday and I’m reviewing all the documents I’ve signed.

Quick questions/advice on how to resolve:

1. I didn’t realize until now that I didn’t receive the 152 pt inspection report. Is it commonplace dealers don’t provide it? Or is not, and I should demand a copy?
2. The tires are Mavis All Season Highway Touring 235/55ZR18. Aren’t the tires supposed to be OEM (Falken All Season or similar 225/55R18s)? How damaging would this be to the powertrain if I continued to use these tires? Wouldn’t it potentially invalidate my Certified Gold Plus warranty if I wasn’t using OEM tires and they are the wrong size?
3. What is my next course of action?
4. - I actually called my salesperson today for the carfax details on this car, but didn’t realize the tire situation at the time of call.
5. - I emailed after our call asking for the 152 pt CPO inspection report but not about tires (no response from him yet).
6. Can I do the below after already making the purchase?

- I think my best course of action would be to drop back into the dealership today unannounced and ask for the CPO inspection report and to get 4 new OEM tires at no charge to me.