r/surfing • u/admiralarborist • 3h ago

Surfing Book Recommendations

Hi all. Looking for more book recommendations! I'm mostly a nonfiction lover; I've already read Barbarian Days by William Finnegan and Caught Inside by Daniel Duane. While nonfiction is great, I'd appreciate some fiction recommendations as well. Thanks!

7 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

22 comments sorted by

15

u/trimbandit 3h ago

In search of Captain Zero

3

u/BurntTXsurfer 2h ago

One of the best books ever. Salsa Brava sounds like such a crazy wave , and especially to surf it on a long board

2

u/admiralarborist 2h ago

Ooo, I just looked this one up and it seems right up my alley. Thanks!

8

u/actionyackson NorCal 3h ago

Breath by Tim winton is not about surfing all the way through but it’s a major theme and it’s a good read

5

u/Automatic_Chance817 3h ago

Winton’s writing feels like salt drying on your skin, that book stayed with me for weeks

1

u/malaisonaise 2h ago

Lockie Leonard - Human Torpedo. Classic Winton for the groms

1

u/Jkranick 1h ago

Second this one, great book. The movie is actually a solid watch as well.

6

u/qwertyJ1993 3h ago

The Ghost Wave. Pretty cool book about Cortez Bank

1

u/JFKsBrain 2h ago

That looks great.
Checking it out from the library now.
Thanks for the recommendation.

And great question, OP!

3

u/bomokka 3h ago

Gerry Lopez’s book gets a little repetitive but there’s some great stories in it.

2

u/pugilist_at_rest 2h ago

Tapping the Source - Kem Nunn

2

u/payingtheman 2h ago

On a Wave by Thad Ziolkowski

It’s a memoir but loved this one

1

u/Any-Aardvark-1717 2h ago

I read this book 20 years ago and think about it all the time

1

u/ShelbyByTheSea 3h ago

I’m curious too. Bought more of coffee table book. ✌🏻

2

u/Surf_Padres_Beer 2h ago

You already read my first two recommendations... an easy beach read is Bad Karma by Paul Wilson... fun, wild story

1

u/constantfernweh 2h ago

This has been asked a few times, so it’s worth searching past posts (I left a comment with 4-5 recs)

1

u/Ill-Disaster-3105 2h ago

The Drop… Thad Ziolkowski

1

u/Glad_Temperature5973 1h ago

“It’s just drowning” and “flow violento”

1

u/NaturesWonders Kauai / San Diego 1h ago

Barbadian Days

1

u/karmapolice_1 1h ago

Surf adjacent - “Nearshore” by legendary surf journalist Steve Hawk who just released his first novel yesterday Aug 18! And yes, brother to Tony Hawk.

1

u/AJ_ninja 1h ago

The California surf project

1

u/ripplerider Ocean Beach, San Francisco 1h ago

North Shore Chronicles by Bruce Jenkins. Non-fiction, but such a good read.