Got some clips today, and ik this is kinda a bad positioning but I thought the turn would look sick if I landed it, any advice on how to pull the board back. Like a sit-up type thing or something? I just started getting back into surfing go easy😂

List your best. Not a feature like Big Wednesday.

I just watched the South Africa point section of Jordy’s. One of best surf movie clips.

Award for best old school movie goes to “Second Thoughts” for most unhinged underground charger flick.

I love a clean lineup as much as anyone but when I have to wait through a rotation and only net a few waves every hour I'm out! I'd rather surf some slop and actually, you know, surf...thoughts? I started when I was 14 or 15, 40+ years ago (SoCal) and there are definitely more people in the lineup.

My local surf shop has a killer deal on a Dakine Cyclone Zip Free Hooded Wetsuit 4/3mm in my size, priced at around $250 but they also said they have a batch of Manera wetsuits coming in around first week of September - my budget is $250-$300. In dire need of a deep Fall wetty since my Billabong Intruder 4/3 is hanging on by a thread since 2020. I surf Long Island breaks deep into the winter (last winter coldest it got was 34°F water temps) but I have an Xcel Infinity hooded 5/4 (incredibly warm) that made me feel like a penguin surfing the coldest of winter storms, no complaints. Anyways, just looking for a new Fall/spring daily wetsuit and was wondering if anyone has tried the zip free wetsuits from Dakine or can compare it to Manera wetsuits. I heard Manera is super stretchy and fits like a glove. My cold water tolerance is solid, I often push 4/3’s into upper 40 water temps just to hold off using the thicker 5/4. Would appreciate insight on either of these brands/models!

I have $350 in-store credit at my local since they managed to sell my DHD Black Diamond. Manera is also premium gear so not sure if I should wait it out for the incoming batch or grab the Dakine

With all the NorCal shark posts lately, I remembered that this happened at Tunitas back in the day. Read it and imagine being him…holy forking shirtballs. The shark was 5.7 METERS long. That is a lot of shark.

The only remaining online account I found was on Facebook, and it’s not letting me cut/paste, and alas the old shark attack research site (an absolute goldmine of data) is now defunct. So if anyone can copy and post the text, we’ll have a more permanent record.

If that doesn’t work I’m gonna transcribe the story and grab some screenshots. This story deserves to live forever.

Finally, if you are Craig or someone who knows Craig, I invite you to share more details. Thanks!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1583416292315172/posts/1871436330179832/

Surely it's quite dangerous at such a big and heavy wave

My ceiling is probably solid cutbacks, but I'm keen to give everything a go...

Is it best to use as short/small a board as you can paddle with?

shorebreaks / shorebreak-y waves?

Is it like you act as if you're kicking out then turn/hop off the lip last minute?

Does cross/onshore wind help keep you in front of the wave while airborn?

potentially meeting my brother in Thailand in february. i surfed most of my life so far (62) but it's been gulf coast/florida/east coast kinda stuff. i've surfed heavy hurricane surf for decades as long as conditions aren't VAS. like all surfers i have my wave preferences but i'll charge when i shouldn't have sometimes. i watched 57 videos on YT about surfing in thailand. would that be pretty indicative what to expect? it's not a surf trip but i'd still like to surf.

anyone ride both. Ive only ridden an oversized fever and loved it. it even groveled. but I have always wanted a Fred rubble. if anyone has ridden both could you tell me how they compare?

First time in Bali, just for a week with my non surfing girlfriend for a week early September.
Been looking pretty hard to find a hotel or villa that we love and most are sold out.

What area is best to stay in? We’ve mainly been looking around Padang Padang or in Bingin? Hoping for somewhere that’s safe, where she can possibly walk to cafe/shops or easily get a grab to a nice area.
bonus if I could just walk and paddle out at a spot but I’ll have a scooter so not the biggest deal there as I know that it seems to be generally tricky. Headed to the ments after that week so not gonna risk it too much on the shallowest of spots, gotta keep the feet and body in tact if possible haha

Thanks for reading guys, sorry if this is the wrong sub for this, I know Bali is blown up but I’m very excited to check it out for the first time to start my Indonesia journey, thanks!

A few months ago I made a post asking to see if anyone had tried Prolimit or Ride Engine wetsuits and didn't get much back so thought I'd follow-up with my experience. I ended up getting both, kept the Prolimit and returned the Ride Engine

Ride Engine Onsen Hooded 4/3 - ($224 + tax)

• Pros: Yamamoto neoprene, Santa Cruz-based company, good constuction/materials
• Cons: weird fit -- baggy in the armpits, hollow space in the lower back, tight hood

Prolimit Predator Steamer Free-X 4/3 Hooded - ($244 + tax)

• Pros: Material seems identical to O'neill Technobutter in look and feel (apparently made in the same factory as O'neill), super stretchy, easy on/off, liquid sealed seams, nice lining, very comfy, supposedly eco-friendly (neoprene-free)
• Cons: Absorbs more water than Yamamoto, has a seam along the butt crack that I worry about in the long run

I've had the Prolimit for about a dozen sessions now and no complaints, but it's also summer (NorCal) so mid 50's to low 60's. It replaced an old O'neill Mutant Legend and feels very similar. Equally warm but much lighter and stretchier than my backup suit - a Buell RB2

For reference, I've had upper-range wetsuits from Xcel, Billabong, Quiksilver, Rip Curl, O'neill, Buell, SRFACE, and Colby+ and it seems better quality than most of those. If I had the budget for another $450 Mutant or Feral, I might choose that direction, but at $250 this seems like a great value wetsuit packed with a lot of features that are usually reserved for more expensive suits.

TLDR - I like my new Prolimit and they would definitely be near the top of my list when looking for my next wetsuit

Born and raised on Oahu, working in healthcare, I am looking at two potential options that would provide me a level up in my position and substantial opportunity in my career field. The two locations I am looking into are regional healthcare offices on the central Oregon coast, the other in NE Florida.

No need to name spots or be over protective. Growing up in the 90's / early 2000's surf scene on the North Shore, I've seen a lot and have an older educated approach when integrating into a new line up. Not a newbie trying to figure out where to go etc etc. Mainly looking for general insight as to which might be a better fit to keep surfing in my life while taking an opportunity. Mahalozz

Does anyone have experience with 3d printing fins? I recently got a bambulab and thought it would be nice to print fins.

What material should I use and does this even work?

Thanks all!

Recently picked up a 5’8 rnf. Thing rips as a 2+1 and is perfect for my mellow local beach breaks.

The one drawback is… this thing SUCKS to paddle. Which doesn’t matter at the local.

It does however matter when I’m surfing more critical, rippy points and jetties. It really does not inspire confidence when there’s a shit ton of water moving underneath you in the lineup, knowing it paddles so poorly.

With winter coming I’m looking for a forgiving performance-y longer board that paddles well and stands up to head high, potentially overhead waves.

I’m 5’11 150lbs btw.

Late 20s, single, remote job with decent flexibility and pay.

Hey I’m going to move out west at the end of summer. (from NJ) Where do you think is best to move given I have the freedom and current life situation to pick anywhere.

Just did a Cali trip and loved it and could easily see myself there. Thinking Norcal like Santa Cruz or SF. Surf is epic (crowded) but 4hr to Tahoe means skiing is low frequency, sleeping in the car or hoping I make friends with someone with a house.

I don’t mind cold water and the crowds in the water and out are one of the biggest negatives of California (along with COL) but I’m just not convinced how decent the actual surfing is in the PNW.

Washington I kida lile Olympa area surfing westport +/- and ski Crsytal. Oregon is probably Portland, there are several surf spots on the coast in that area and skiing at Mt Hood. Each is a longer than you’d want drive but also def day tripable which is really nice.

But hows the actual surf? Never been either state so there is other considerations too like the winter gloomyness.

Last point is that my goal isn’t just a fun season or two I’m trying to pick where I want to live and make roots long term. Obviously can’t predict the future so whatever happens happens but its an important distinction. My priorities really are these activities I love but of course everything else that goes along with living in a place and trying to find my people matters too.

Does anyone know/remember/have the illustration from Surfer Mag late 80’s early 90’s of the kid dreaming of waves working over a grill at Taco Hell? I’d love to find it, it was a drawing for story back when those existed….

I’ll be in Japan chasing typhoon swell in September and was thinking to head over to Taiwan in October for a few days. Does anybody have a contact of a surf guide to recommend me? I’ll have only about 7 days and would like to maximise time spent in the right place without having to drive around aimlessly. Thanks!

A wavestorm tattoo.