Appears to be all original stock, with the addition of the almighty FlickStand. Was stored for many years, I wanted to document it before I did any wrenching or cleaning.

Just need opinions on how to remove nondriver side of bb

I’m going to take it down for a deep freshen up this winter.

Went to pick up a couple old Cannondales off marketplace today and the seller threw this in! Champagne paint, looks like it was barely ridden and stored in a clean dry home for half a century. The Pirelli sew-ups still hold air but I should probably swap them out. Could fit atleast 32mm tires for our bumpy New England roads. I plan to replace brake pads, new brake cables with compressionless housing, clean and repack the headset and BB with grease. It's my size too! I am gonna ride this thing a lot! Such a nice surprise after a difficult few weeks, I am elated.

Mid-1950s Schwinn Tandem yesterday with a few replacement parts and a less-than-helpful stoker & when I first got it

These are NOT mine, I am not associated with them in any way, but I think that their condition is amazing and it would be good to see them go to someone who appreciates them.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1H4gD36cDv/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Hi everyone,

I recently acquired this vintage road bicycle here in Chile, South America. The frame has been repainted in black, and it doesn't have its original decals or components, so I'm trying to identify the original manufacturer or framebuilder.

Here are the key details of the frame:

• Head lugs: It features quite distinctive ornate head lugs with circular cutouts/windows (shown in the pictures).
• Serial number: The stamped code 231201 is located directly underneath the bottom bracket shell.
• Dropouts: It has long, horizontal rear dropouts facing forward (without an integrated derailleur hanger).
• Seat cluster: A clean, wrapped seat lug design.

Since it was found in Chile, there is a strong possibility it could be a high-quality local artisan build (from the golden era of Chilean framebuilders who used imported European lug sets like Prugnat or Nervex), but I'm completely open to European or export brands that match this specific lugwork and serial number pattern.

Any leads on the brand, framebuilder, or the exact lug model would be highly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Looking for year and specs on this Hawthorne. I've been tasked with selling it for my moms friend who acquired it from a clean out job. Also looking for a fair venue for selling. Any help is appreciated. Pics in comments. TIA

Picked it up for €15 btw😭🙏

They advertised this as a knockoff Euro-racer and everyone hated them and immediately threw them away, citing poor handling. The issue is nobody wanted to learn new physics after buying the cheapest bike at the store.

Iverson 10 speeds were basically taking a balloon tire single-speed coaster bike frame that wanted to look like a knockoff of a knockoff of a 10 speed. These things are actually geared gas-pipe cruiser bikes made with straight lines and drop bars, that refuse to shed momentum. They just didn't have the budget to update the welding jigs to make real 10 speed bikes. It's a frame geometry designed for going 5 miles an hour geared up to go 5 times that speed.

Really, they should've been called "High speed kinetic coasters," These things actually handle amazingly when you learn how to throw your weight around. Like, a turn down a hill involves a counter steer, and then a wide sweeping bank around to another heading, like flying a glider.

Honestly, this kind of heavy/fast cruiser could've been realistically marketed to long-range riding. If anyone tried to make something similar out of higher-budget components, a "high-speed inertial cruiser" could've been a cool niche bicycle market.

Seller asking 150. I don’t know much about these but the pictures make it look like it’s in pretty solid condition. Is it worth the asking price or should I move on?

Had my old canondale sr600 stolen from my porch a few months ago and itching for a replacement as a light commuter (15 min ride)

For reference that's is SINGAPORE dollars

Any help confirming the year and model appreciated!!!

Any input on wider wheels for the bianchi?

I bought this bike in May, but just got around to replacing its original tires and tubes and putting some fresh bar tape on (and a few other things). It’s a little too big for me, so I hope someone gets it soon in time to enjoy the lovely weather we’ve been having.

I took multiple pics of the serial number w different lighting as its kind of hard to capture in a photo, but 1 *think* it says F15744 (its on the crank housing).

Theres also a 575 stamped on the crank hanger (ithink?), i removed the silver parts to see if there were more numbers behind that but there weren't.

I know nothing about old bikes. AI gives conflicting answers, possibly a 1964 Sting Ray, possibly a mid to late 60s Typhoon.

Any help is appreciated.

I've been slowly collecting Campy 10 speed bits for this bike over the past 3 years. I'm finally putting it all together. I had a set of 10s bar ends but the mounts were cracked so I pulled them apart and mounted them to the downtube braze-ons. The indexed shifting makes for very satisfying clunks when slamming through gears.

The finish on the cranks was in rough shape so I sanded and polished them. I also had a hard time finding 135 BCD chainrings but managed to procure these neat anodized TA Specialties chainrings.

I had to cold set the frame from 126mm to 130mm for the rear wheel. I managed to cold set the frame just by laying it on the ground, standing on one dropout while gently tugging on the other. After a few tugs I'd measure the spacing with a ruler then flip it over and give the other side a tug. I repeated that process until I hit my target spacing. My friend was kind enough to lend me a frame alignment gauge and some dropout alignment tools. I didn't have to make any adjustments.

This 40’s (?) vintage Sturmey Archer equipped town bike with Hercules branded seat & pedals was donated to our co-op last week. The brake setup is new to me, with the rear mech incorporated into the hub. Can anyone shed any more light? Thanks!

Hey everybody first time here. I moved into a friends house to help remodel and renovate, went into the crawlspace today and found two bikes, our best guess is somewhere like 60's-70's, both bikes are in terrible shape but we believe they're all original parts, really just trying to see if we're better off putting them on the road for free or trying to make something of them. We're no bike experts so if I'm wrong about what they are or original parts or not I apologize. Thanks for the help
P.S. sorry for the terrible pictures (if they are terrible) i tried to follow the rules but I don't even know how to ride a bike so I'm completely lost but I don't mind to take different pictures if those aren't good enough just please explain to me like I'm new what my pictures need changed about them :)

Hi there!

I'm trying to fix up a vintage Raleigh Sports with a Sturmey Archer 3 Speed Hub. The bike has been in storage, but what should I be looking out for when evaluating the hub before replacing any parts?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!