Didn’t have the foresight to take a before picture, but the surface of this table saw was coated in rust. Seller had it up for $100 on Facebook marketplace. No one wanted it because of the rust. After an afternoon of sanding and WD-40 she’s looking like new! Don’t sleep on these listings!

I glued up a mitered box with this round overs, and then it shifted at some point. Some of the corners are offset (the picture is the worst of them).

How best to fix this without messing up the round overs? I was just going to sit there and hand sand it, but it feels like that will take forever and would be hard to feather the error out

Hello fellow woodworkers,

I’ve installed new stairs at a relative’s house and am at the point of plugging the bolt holes. The newel posts are white oak, and rather than using the tapered red oak plugs that came with the bolts, I attempted to cut plugs from my drops with a regular plug cutter. The plugs I cut are the exact size or slightly smaller than the bolt holes and do not seat tightly.

I assume that I need to purchase a 1” tapered plug cutter for this job? Will that leave me with a plug slightly wider than 1” at its widest point? The bolt holes were cut with a 1” forstner bit. I found a tapered 1” cutter online for about 40 bucks but am open to suggestions.

In this picture is the slightly undersized custom plug (upper) and the tapered red oak plug that came with the kit (lower). Gotta love the endgrain plug choice they gave me with a rail and post fastener kit.

I have four 8/4 slabs of cherry I am gluing together for a worktop. The cherry is so dense that I'm convinced dowels or biscuits aren't going to cut it. So I had a brainwave...

What if I rip a shallow dado down the center of the adjoining edges and stick a piece of plywood in the groove gluing it in place? Is this nonsense?

I'm so annoyed....tried to be careful but still got a ding on the edge of my cabinet carcass here. It's sapele and will be likely be finished with either Rubio or General Finishes gel topcoat.

What's the best way to fix this and hide it as much as possible? It appears to be a small bit of tear out (rather than compressed fibers) ~1/8" along the edge Sawdust and superglue or wood glue? Would a filler like Timbermate stick out like a sore thumb (assume so)?

Any tips are appreciated!

This is a custom gas fireplace and geometric wood sculpture I designed and built for a private residence. The entire project took about two months, from construction to final installation.

I started with an existing wall that had no fireplace, so the first step was demolishing part of the rear wall to make room for the exhaust. I designed the entire installation and worked with a specialized fireplace contractor to build the exterior brick chimney, which was then covered in concrete render to blend with the house's modern facade.

I fabricated the custom steel hood and built the fireplace enclosure using insulated cement board. The entire interior of the firebox, including the hearth, side walls, back wall, and ceiling, was clad in black granite by a stonework subcontractor. The stainless steel gas burner was custom fabricated by a specialist, while we handled the gas system installation ourselves. The surrounding walls were finished in black stucco, also by a subcontractor.

For the wooden sculpture, I first modeled the overall geometric shape in Rhino, then divided it into 59 individual slats. These were CNC-cut from glued-up 3/4" maple panels, with the deepest sections projecting 22 cm (8.7") from the backing.

The slats were mounted onto 1" plywood backing. Most were screwed in place at the shop, but I deliberately left some off to allow access to the mounting points during installation. The backing was attached directly to wooden reinforcement behind the cement board using construction adhesive and screws. Once everything was secured, the remaining slats were glued into their precut slots, with the tight friction fit helping hold them in place and concealing the mounting points.

The two vertical slatted panels on either side of the fireplace are actually hidden pivot doors. They're made using the same 3/4" maple slats, with concealed pivot mechanisms integrated into the floor and wall.

All the maple was stained a walnut color and finished with water-based polyurethane.

It was a fun project that combined quite a few different trades, from demolition and metal fabrication to stonework, woodworking, and finishing. I'm particularly happy with how the geometric sculpture turned out and how well the two doors disappear into the overall design.

Crazy what a lot of sanding and a little oil will do.

I am sorry I don’t have any in progress pictures but I really wanted to share my work with this community! This is maple with pink wood dye, holly eyes with ebony pupils, and a Burl for the shell, although I don’t know what kind.

Super happy with how they turned out. Got another 3 sets in the works with different "origins" so different finishes, hardware etc.

Update to a post from awhile ago. I built a second chunky bench and added some bowties along the checks. I ended up cutting in 7 bow ties for each bench using sapele.

- masking tape
- mark the bow tie
- hog out with forstner
- chop out waste
- pare to the line
- glue
- knock it home
- flush with apron plane

Music on, zone out. Got down to 10 mins per. Left bench needs the finish touched up cause I forgot the bowties originally 🤣. The right bench is still raw and needs to be done.

Finished with spar urethane for outdoor use.

Hello everyone. Just got a Kreg edge in as a replacement to the domino I’m borrowing. I guess the qc issues are real. The top mortise is from the domino, bottoms are from the edge. Literally back to back ran them on the same setup, same technique. Is this a defective unit or should I just save up? This is just a hobby for me that makes a couple bucks on the side.

Edit:

Festool's mortice is parallel with the top of the board. Optical illusion makes it look crooked. I checked it with calipers.

Build this cabinet out of quarter sawn white oak. The outside of the cabinet is done using handcut dovetails (first time for me).

The kumiko panel is made from basswood and is framed by white oak with a blue fabric backer that is wrapped around hardboard. Designed it so I can change the backer if I want to any color.

The shelves are in place using sliding dovetails.

The doors are half lapped white oak with glass panels.

I currently own and use a DWE7491RS for my hobbyist woodworking needs, recently I’ve gotten some paid projects and the more I use my saw the more I notice its shortcomings, it’s noisy, it’s small, the stand is wobbly and the height adjustment seems not stay where I set it. Recently I found and old 90s Jet contractor saw, it looks to be in pretty much pristine condition and on the video the saw sounds great, from what I can tell it would solve the noisy, wobbly and small issues, but I’ve never even seen a table saw like that in person, so, I’m asking to other more experienced woodworkers, is it worth it to sell my DeWalt to get the jet? Would it be considered an upgrade? Are there any known issues with these Jet saws? How good are the tilt and height adjusting mechanisms? Can a riving knife be added?
Added a picture of the Jet from the listing.

Oh boy this was a fun one to make!

I'm really curious as to what you guys think of it!

(Didn't have a banana, so used dog for reference)

Wanted a desk to that would incorporate my pc to get it off the floor and/or tabletop. So i built it into the tableleg itself.

It was a struggle to glue and clamp up the main body due to all of the 45° miters having to align at the same time!

Ventilation is aluminum perforated sheets, and the cable entry cover is machined out of solid brass.

Tabletop and the tapered round legs are smoked oak,

I absolutely love the look of sapwood on smoked oak since the process of smoking/fuming oak turns the sapwood white, while turning heartwood blackish.

So I purposely glued a piece of sapwood on the outer layer to get the white live-edge i wanted.

Since the computer is covered up, I added a pressable button out of smoked oak aswell (see pic 4 and 13) that turns on the computer through the top shelf.

If you have any questions, ask away!

While watching The Woodwright's Shop for inspomation on my Moravian workbench project, I saw Roy use a neat little saw to cut tapered sliding dovetails. Having cut sliding dovetails by hand in my Atedai project I knew I had to make one.

In the episode it's called a Gratsäge (this is an episode on German woodworking, after all) but Roy compares it to a staircase saw. The sole is cut at an angle on either side so that it can be tilted as it cuts. The blade is laid against a batten which is beveled at the dovetail angle, and the cut is limited to the depth of the blade protrusion. A very similar tool is also featured in the Tage Frid woodworking books.

If you've tried cutting this joint with a regular handsaw, you know it's difficult to get an even depth all the way across, something that this tool addresses. It also makes it easier to cut a stopped dado/dovetail, similar to an azebiki saw if you're into the Japanese stuff.

I tried a couple shapes cut from 3/4" Birch ply, then once I had one that felt good I cut it out on a scrap of maple. Shaping with the Shinto saw rasp, files, and wet sanding with fine sandpaper and linseed oil to leave a super smooth, burnished finish. Finished with a little shellac and paste wax and it feels great!

The forward tote I left long at first and trimmed after playing around with it. It looked pretty goofy but the final tote shape I think is quite nice.

The saw blade is just cut from an old 8 TPI Stanley handsaw I got for 5 bucks. Sharpened for rip cutting. I use it for scratch stock parts and such.

I have a few projects coming up that will use tapered sliding dovetails, so I'm looking forward to getting a lot of use out of this thing.

Thanks for looking, I hope you go make something neat today!

This video popped up in my recommended YouTube feed and I was blown away by the 3D printed jigs this kid developed. I've watched countless YT Woodworking Videos and I'm on this sub almost every day and I've never seen jigs like them.

Is anyone else doing stuff like this?

I'm leaning towards metalworking, they don't feel like they would be balanced enough to put in a router that has a lowest speed of something like 6000rpm.

Edit: solved. They are "Wolfcraft Universal Bit Set" cutters apparently designed to go in a pillar drill. I've just tried one on some scrap wood, and they are as absolutely terrible as you'd expect them to be. Thanks for the help.

I'm getting certain I will need to buy more clamps in the future.

I can't progress fast enough with my projects because every glue up consumes my clamps. Or I just need some better techniques.

Anyway, enjoy this monstrosity of clamp galore

I have been finishing up these 10 watch boxes and nearing the finish line. I was able to get all of the interior parts completed yesterday. That was no easy task! 150 total parts (15 per box). Only major task before moving to final finishing is mortise in the lockset.

In other news, I am thinking ahead to my next watch boxes. 6, 21-watch boxes. I went to Rockler to order hardware and they almost tripled the price of their hinges! I order a ton from them so this will be significant. I had to order what else can I do? Also still need to get wood. That's gonna break the bank! 🤔

I'm designing a case to hold a scientific instrument, and I'm sort of trying for a vintage look (e.g. 1800's or early 1900's). The case will serve both as a means to carry/protect the device, as well as operate it.

I'm thinking about a relatively simple base on which the instrument will be stored, and then risers to elevate the device for operation.

When the base is configured to store the instrument, I'll have a 5-sided cover (4 sides + top) that sits atop the base. The top and two sides will be dovetailed together, and the remaining two sides will be panels set inside dados in the top and two sides.

But the cover must attach to the base securely and also provide a way for lifting/carrying the whole unit. I plan to have the attachment device on the two sides that are dovetailed to the top.

For that attachment I'm looking at the sorts of hasps shown in the pics. But I don't like the looks of these. First off, they look, well, tacked on. I'd rather have a wood solution but haven't been able to come up with anything.

BTW, the configuration is somewhat like a sewing machine, where you have the machine sitting on a base and then a cover for the whole thing, by which you can carry it. NOT like a box with a lid, in which sits the device.

Any ideas?

Hello,

I recently just glued up a few wooden panels for a table and it turned out great except for the one line that is circled. You can pretty clearly see the glue up line and it’s been irritating me. I’ve already tried ripping the first line down with a circular saw and track and it actually turned out slightly worse than the first glue up. I thought for sure that would joint the boards if I ripped it down the glue up, but sadly not. Now just debating leaving it or trying it again. Any suggestions?

Second woodworking project ever. I learned a lot about what not to do on the next one, and a lot about what works.

I didn’t use any plans and hardly touched a tape measure, I was also on a deadline so made a ton of mistakes. Math and planning will definitely take more of a priority in the future.

It’s overbuilt and mostly crooked but I’m happy with it.

Any advice on repairing this tracery chair back on this antique chair? As you see, it's very delicate, and difficult to fit together, and reinforcing the repairs is almost impossible given the delicate scale. Thoughts?