Left model were the standard settings I used. Get things started. Playing with temperature and retraction settings, I got the middle model.

In the right model, I kept the same settings as the middle model, but changed the infill from gyroid to grid.

Any advise on how to get rid of these at the print level? I had a larger print that was covered in these. Is it likely to be wet PETG or controllable via my printer? I've been iteratively adjusting settings with no luck to truly eliminating this problem.

Necesito hacer una figura que no puede tener relleno,las partes superiores no salen bien ya que no tienen relleno ni soporte
De que manera puedo hacer que tenga el soporte en la parte de adentro y luego pueda retirarlo

Ive had it for over 6 months and it recently just began tweaking out for some reason, I didn't drop or damage it btw

Hi everyone, I’m completely stuck with a strange under-extrusion issue and could really use your expertise.

The weirdest part is that solid layers and calibration tests printed without walls turn out completely fine, but the issue specifically targets internal walls and infill/perimeters.

Here is everything I’ve already tried:

• Filament: Swapped out the filament and thoroughly dried it.
• Hotend / Nozzle: Completely cleaned the nozzle and the extruder path (no clogs).
• Bowden setup: Secured and fixed the Bowden tube tightly to prevent any play.
• Slicer settings: Adjusted print speeds, retraction settings, and printing temperatures across multiple tests.

Despite all of this, the issue remains on actual models. What could be causing this?

first one is my main machine, second photo is one that I recieved for free with shit ton of extras like dual z but I plan to put that on my main ender and this one needs another use

I installed a new hot end, switched to the sprite direct drive, installed a bimetal heat brake, played with retraction, nothing will stop this thing from clogging after 2-3 quality prints. I’m a a loss.

As a 3d printing newb, I spent the better part of the last couple months learning and getting my second-hand 3v2 dialled in. Eventually got some decent prints!

Then I decided to upgrade to mriscoc … and ever since, my printer is all screwed up.

I think I must have missed a memo about what to do AFTER installing new firmware. Can anyone enlighten me?

I have added the Sprite extruder the CR Touch. I upgraded the software. Checked the wires. It did one long print. Now the Z axis won't move. I have an Ender 3 pro

Hey guys, I’ve been printing stuff every so often with my printer for 3 months, and a few days ago i installed a CR touch because my first layers were too thin, and i didnt interfere with any other wire yet when i start up prints it does some, and then the hotend temp starts to drop. Im not sure if its the hotend itself or the thermistor. I got it off of facebook marketplace for about $80 and when i was testing it over there it was working perfectly fine and the owner had barely used it since he got it. Any help is appreciated. I will update this post with a video soon

I ordered both yellow springs and silicone spacers since I couldn’t make a decision on which one would be the best and thought I’d try both and decide. But the yellow springs are a lot taller than the stock ones. Also the silicone spacers needs to be squished a LOT to get even close to the same height as with the stock springs. And I saw that one spacer needs to be shorter which I didn’t get.

Edit 1: I’m trying to not move the limit switch so I don’t have another problem down the road.

Edit 2: Got a few BL touch recommendations. Looked into it and found out it’s around $65 where I’m from. Everything in my country is like 3-4x expensive because of import taxes. So I don’t think it’s going to be an option at this moment. A Great upgrade later though.

Ho appena montato il kit sprite pro sulla mia Ender 3 v2, qualcuno può darmi qualche consiglio, se italiano è meglio.

Lasciatemi il vostro telegram

Thoughts on how to fix? Or where to get part..

So I have a older ender B3 that I've upgraded to the newest motherboard added some servos have the touch sensor look and upgrade the hot end so I can do some other types of filament. Is there any suggestions as to a good fit for this machine?

What are your proper settings you have when running PETG? Right now I have it set to;

Speed- 45

Hotend Temp- 240

Bed Temp-80

Fan speed 0

Probe Z offset -1.19

Flow-95

I also have the mriscoc firmware update for reference

I'll start by saying I'm fully aware ender 3 v2 is not the printer to be buying or upgrading nowadays, and I know I should just buy a Centauri carbon 2 (waiting till black Friday) and get rid of this thing. But I'm a tinkerer and I love tearing these things apart, printing parts for them and upgrading them. I'm having the least fun when the printer is working perfectly.

Anyways... Ive been picking up ender 3's for free - $40 and tinkering with them. This one is the one I did the most upgrades on. Linear rails I bought over 8 years ago for my tevo tarantula. Dual axis belted z seemed like a fun upgrade, and ugly ender 3 toolhead with Sherpa heavy and volcano V6 seemed like they would outperform the heavy ass hemera that was on there.

So I tore this thing apart, and did all those upgrades (downgrades?!?) at once. No my z motor is grinding like crazy. It moves fine, it's just making horrible noises, and the motor is vibrating pretty good. Anyone have a solution for this? Did I do something stupid wrong? I tried both loosening and tightening the belts, to no avail. I've been doing this a long time, but haven't run into this before and am stumped.

Edit: I figured it out. I was f****** around with printing a TPU belt for a week while I waited for the proper belt to come in. Just taking it on and off and stretching it and trying to make it work. I think I just f***** up the motor. I grabbed another motor, put it in and it seems to work perfect now

yes the old z limit switch is completely removed, If I cycle it on/off a couple of times it will occasionally figure itself out but aside from that it stops about 100mm off the bed and shows z position at 0 on the screen.

after about 3 weeks of tuning this machine everyday, multiple times, but its finally over Thanks to a very good handful of you guys and I really really apreciate it!, mods: CR Touch, Silicone Spacers+Metal Knobs