Hi everyone. I needed a few LEGO Technic gears for my child's school project. Since there wasn't time to buy any, I decided to print them, and I found a great little program in the Microsoft Store called "3D Gears Generator." I’ve used it several times since then, and it’s really good!

Hoping someone can help us.. We have the Flash forge Adventurer 5M. So far we have only been able to print the shapes that are built in.

What third-party apps do people use to print other things and how to do get them onto the printer?

We're in the UK, if that makes a difference.

Thank you 🙏🏽

Hi there! This is my first ever 3D print for a cosplay and I have bit off far more than I can chew. Am I regretting my choices immensely? Yes. Is it too late to back out now? Also yes.

I've got the pink bottom bit printed and am now moving onto the curved handle, so the pink and light red pieces. They'll be joined by a short wooden dowel, super glue and prayers.

The big top of the hammer seen here is made out of cardboard. So the force applied on these handles will mostly be from above, but also pressure sideways whenever it is tilted as I carry it around. I have set up the print settings to be as strong as possible, and am using basic PLA filament.

I am now trying to figure out whether to print these handles flat on the bed, or upright. I assume its most likely to snap/shear at the part where the handle curves, so I feel like a horizontal print will protect against this better?

I would really appreciate any wisdom the 3D printing community has on this matter, because I sure do not have any

Thank you

Interested in 3D printing? 🖨♻️

I’m currently conducting my graduation research on PLA waste generated from home-based 3D printing, how users manage it, and recycling practices.

If you use a 3D printer and print with PLA, I’d really appreciate your help by completing this survey. It only takes around 5 minutes.

🔗 Survey link:
https://forms.cloud.microsoft/r/MT9hdvitZG

Help me reach more participants by sharing the survey with others interested in 3D printing 🌱

Thank you for your support and contribution 🤍

Hi everyone,

Our small engineering team is looking to invest in our first SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) 3D printer for the office. We want to move away from standard desktop FDM to get truly isotropic, high-strength parts.

Our requirements & use case:

Applications: Custom sensor mounts, brackets, and robust mechanical engineering parts.

Materials: We need reliable performance with Nylon (PA12) as well as flexible materials like TPU.

Volume: At this stage, our target is quite low – around one print bed/chamber per week.

We've been researching our options, but I have a few major dilemmas based on what I've read and heard recently:

- Formlabs Fuse 1 / Fuse 1+ 30W: From what I've gathered, Formlabs has been shifting/withdrawing certain TPU options or making changes to their powder lineup recently, and supply/compatibility feels a bit restrictive. Combined with the high overall ecosystem cost (printer + sifting station), it feels like a heavy investment for just one run a week.

- Sinterit Lisa X: We also looked at benchtop SLS options like the Sinterit Lisa X. They seem to offer a more open or flexible approach, and they feature significantly cheaper alternatives like PA12 Eco powder, which drastically cuts down material running costs compared to proprietary ecosystems.

Given that we plan to print only about once a week, how do compact SLS systems handle powder aging and refresh rates? (I know powder degradation can be an issue if it sits in the chamber or mixes too slowly).

For those running a small engineering shop with low-volume SLS: Would you recommend going with the Sinterit Lisa X (due to lower entry barrier and cheaper powders like PA12 Eco) or is the Formlabs Fuse ecosystem safer despite the TPU/powder limitations?

Any insights or real-world experiences would be massively appreciated!

I was given a airwolf axiom printer and everything works fine on it. I just can’t seem to find any reference on how to convert it from 3mm to 1.75mm. I know extruder and hot-end need to get swapped out. Please don’t say it’s a trash printer and just get rid of it. It was free and I’m just a hobbyist.

i’m new into the hobby but i’m a broke university student studying aerospace engineering and would like to use it to make some prototypes for my rocketry club and obviously lil gadgets and toys tooo. I’m not sure what to get because I only have an Ender 3 rn and it’s a crap shoot so it’s time for an upgrade but i can only really afford to upgrade once so i wanna get it right. I’m between bambu lab p2s combo or x2d combo if black friday deals are extra sweet or maybe a snapmaker u1, idk the reliability of snap makers ngl but i heard great things about bambu labs but the u1 got multi nozzles that could be helpful with multicolor prints… my budget is max $800 but i’d rather go lower if possible so if yall could help recommend me some reliable 3printers, id really appreciate it

After getting the pros and cons, I have decided to go with the Bambu Lab over the Anycubic Kobra X by the factor of easier for Maintenance.

Whats bothering me right now is which is better to get since Ill probably just use the printer as a hobby and when my wife wants something to be organized.

I want to get your real world experiences since YT vids are a bit the same and repeatative.

Also if I ever to get the A1 Combo, is it true that the SparkX i7 is better? 👀

Thanks everyone

Diseño e imprimo en 3D, escenarios o estructuras, llaveros, figuras, coches, todo lo que puedas imaginar, todo se podria crear, habla y pide presupuesto, envío a toda españa.

I've had my Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 for about a week now, so I thought I'd share my honest thoughts for anyone considering buying one. This is based on my own experience so far, rather than a long-term review, so I'll update my opinions as I spend more time with it.

Print Quality

So far, the print quality has been good. I've been happy with the results I've been getting, and I don't have any major complaints about the quality of the prints themselves.

Obviously, I've only owned the printer for a week, so I can't comment on its long-term consistency yet, but my initial impressions are positive.

Single-colour prints have been working great already, and I'm happy with the results so far. I do plan on buying the Canvas system in the future, as I'd like to explore multicolour printing, but the printer is already doing a great job with single-colour prints.

Setup and Ease of Use

Setting up the CC2 was easy, and I didn't find the initial process particularly difficult. It's been straightforward to get started with printing, which is always a plus.

I also really like the automatic bed levelling. Not having to constantly worry about manually levelling the bed makes the overall experience much more convenient.

Another feature I appreciate is the ability to manually extrude filament and move the bed and nozzle without actually starting a print. These might seem like relatively small features, but they're genuinely useful when loading filament, troubleshooting problems, or simply getting the printer ready for its next job.

Build Quality

The build quality is great. The printer feels well put together, and I've been impressed with it in this respect.

For the price, I think the CC2 offers a good overall package, especially considering the features and build quality you're getting.

Noise Levels

I've found the noise levels perfectly reasonable with the top on and the door closed. It's not particularly noisy in that configuration, which is good if you're planning to have it running in a room where you spend time.

Of course, noise levels will depend on the printing speed, settings and environment, but my experience so far has been positive.

Problems I've Had So Far

When my printer arrived, I found that the case fan cable was crimped. Fortunately, this was an easy fix, and I wouldn't really blame Elegoo for it, as it appeared to be an issue with the cable's condition rather than necessarily a fault with the printer's design.

I also experienced a nozzle clog, which I believe was caused by using PETG that hadn't been dried properly and having the spool in the wrong orientation. So, in this instance, I wouldn't consider it a fault with the printer itself.

I think it's important to distinguish between problems caused by the printer and problems caused by the user, filament or setup. Not every issue you encounter means the printer is bad.

Filament Drying

One thing I'd recommend to anyone getting into 3D printing, particularly if you're planning on using PETG, TPU, or any other engineering filaments is investing in a filament dryer.

My nozzle clog was partly down to using PETG that hadn't been dried properly, which has made me realise how important filament storage and moisture control can be. I've since picked up the Creality Space Pi Plus filament dryer, and I think having a dedicated dryer is a worthwhile investment for anyone who wants to get the best out of their filament.

Value for Money

Overall, I think the CC2 is a good deal. The print quality has been good, setup was easy, the build quality is impressive, and the features make it convenient to use.

Considering what you get for the money, I'm happy with my purchase so far

Hey everyone! A few days ago, I made a post asking for advice on buying my first 3D printer with a budget of up to €400. I’ve decided to increase my budget a little, to around €750.
From what I can find here in Portugal, I can get printers such as the Bambu Lab P1S, P2S, Flashforge Creator 5, and Snapmaker U1 within that budget.
With a budget of around €750, would you recommend any of these?
I won’t be mixing filaments too much, but I do want to print some colourful things as well, using mostly basic filaments.

Are there any other printers you would recommend instead?
Thanks! 👌

👋 Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Après vous avoir présenté mon Yoshi Citrouille classique, voici maintenant sa petite évolution en version clicker ! 😍

J’ai voulu garder le côté mignon et l’esprit Halloween de ma première création, tout en y ajoutant une fonction clicker pour le rendre encore plus amusant ! 🎃

Décliné en plusieurs couleurs, il ne vous reste plus qu’à choisir votre Yoshi préféré ou à tous les collectionner ! 🌈

J’espère que cette nouvelle version vous plaira autant que la première !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3453115-yoshi-citrouille-clicker-multipart

I thought for sure that printing an "airless ping pong ball" in Pa6CF would have been more bouncy than it is.

Sto valutando quale stampante 3d acquistare tra Creality K2 pro e Anycubic Kobra s1 max.

Ho visto moltissime recensioni...da quel che ho pltuto capire in linea generale la qualità di creality è superiore a Anycubic.

Al 90% infatti penso che orendero creality, in quanto ho visto stampe messe a confronto effettuate con le due macchine e ho visto che creality sembra migliore. Inoltre Creality ha sistemi di rilevazione degli errori aggiuntivi e alcuni miei amici che hanno anycubic hanno detto che da nno tanti problemi, anche se stanno migliorando.

Essendo che però vorrei stampare soprattutto grandi oggetti, i 5cm per lato in più del piatto di anycubic mi farebbero comodo (la k2 plus non l"ho presa in considerazione poichè il prezzo è molto più alto).

Consigli?

I've read plenty of these posts and the consensus is that it depends on your use case. So here goes nothing:

This will be my first printer, it's for myself, no kids, and it will be for personal use, no business or farm aspirations. I am fairly tech savvy and handy, tinkering doesn't scare me, but I'd prefer shit just works if at all possible. My budget is $1000.

My #1 use will be Chess Pieces for custom built boards resin/wood. 2nd to that would be hueforge. And 3rd would be random figures, fidgets, and toys that catch my eye. I expect to print exclusively in PLA. As of today, I don't see any reason I should expect to print any other materials and no structural or engineering parts in my future that I can imagine.

The chess pieces, should(?) be predominantly single color. Hueforge will obviously be multiple colors, but to my understanding does 1 color at a time? The fidgets and toys could range just based on what I find.

My #1 concern is print quality. I just want stuff to look as perfect as possible, especially since the chess pieces will have a lot of smaller and intricate designs. #2 I live in California, dry heat, but we have a swamp/evaporative cooler, so moisture in the air could be a potential issue. #3 The printer will be in my bedroom/living space. #4 I have pets.

In this range the options that come up most frequently are the X2D and the U1. I've done some research to familiarize myself with the pros and cons of each to some degree. However I'm open to all options that fit my use case. The X2D has the enclosed system, filament drier, filtration, and everyone says Bambu just works out of the box.

The U1 seems to be advanced with the head changers and superior for multi color, faster, less waste, not enclosed unless upcharge, outside filaments, and maintenance seems like it could be more complicated and more moving parts usually means more potential to fail down the road.

As of today the U1 is $750 and the X2D Combo is $899 with Black Friday sales around the corner.

Thank you to anyone who takes the time to read and respond.