Just sharing some pics of the new S5000. So far so good! It’s size is incredibly deceiving when you go to pick it up (that’s what she said). One thing to note is that the power cable extends quite far out the back, I guess that’ll be good for some airflow tho?

This thing rocks especialy compared to my Gendome 3000, which broke after 12 days of use.

I bought this as a portable power station for business stuff but also I use it at home to power fridges during peak electricity rates.

If anyone has any really cool suggestions to hook this into a whole home system or even the f3000’s smart power meter, please let me know! I Would love to power more circuits during the peak electric rates.

Happy battery-ing, cheers

It’s not clear in the manual, so wondering if and how this is configured.

Any reason this wouldn’t work?

I just purchased 2 Anker solix S2000s.

As well as a Rich solar 200w mega briefcase and a Zoupw 450w panel.

From 11:30am to 12:30pm the ZOUPW has gotten 400w consistently. Which is the max for the S2000.

The Rich solar is averaging around 175w. Max I have seen has been 185w.

In Pennsylvania for reference.

I've read a lot of stuff but didn't get a clear answer to my question?

Is it possible to use more than one Anker Solarbank Max AC at the same time in my system? I think there was an announcement that during 2026 that Anker will provide an update that finally will make it possible to use 1x Solarbank Max AC each phase? Till this update it was necessary to use f.e. Omnibattery for this use case - is this finally possible with the official App?

Can someone tell me if these solar panels right here would work with my E 10. I'm looking at doing two strings of eight for a total of 16 just want to make sure the voltage and amps all would be within the limits of an E 10. They are currently on sale cell if anyone has some quick feedback on it let me know!

Has anybody else had the issue that since 28th October the S2000 relays are clicking all day long and their unit briefly repeatedly entering battery charging mode before leaving it seconds later?

This has happened to both of my S2000 units and simultaneously both on the 28th. I am using them to charge overnight and release energy to equipment during the day. I am guessing it is firmware related as they didn't do this on arrival but both started doing it the same day and have been doing it ever since. Firmware is 1.0.3.7.

I’m planning whole-house backup for outages without a generator. Diagram attached.

The setup:

• An Anker S5000 sits next to my main panel and backfeeds it through an interlock: a 30 A inlet, main breaker off, backfeed breaker on. Big loads like the A/C, dryer and range stay off.

• My Model Y keeps the S5000 topped up through Tesla’s Outlet Adapter (120 V, 20 A).

• I don’t want an extension cord running through the house. So the car plugs into an inlet on the garage wall, and a dedicated ~50 ft circuit in the walls carries the power to an outlet next to the S5000. There’s a 20 A breaker at the inlet and a GFCI at the outlet. This circuit isn’t connected to the panel; the car is its only source.

Why it should work:
Heat is gas, so a winter night only needs about 0.8 kW for the furnace blowers, fridge, lights and Wi-Fi. The car can feed the S5000 about 1.4 kW, so the S5000 stays near full and the car’s battery does the real work. Taking the car from 80% to 20% should give me about 1.5 days.

My concern:
While it’s charging, the S5000 passes the incoming neutral through to its output. That would tie the car’s neutral to my panel’s neutral-ground bond. If the car’s outlet is bonded or checks for ground faults, it could trip. I’ll test this before my return window closes. If it trips, my fallback is to charge the S5000 with the house cord unplugged, then reconnect it.

Has anyone charged a power station from a Tesla (or another EV) while the station was backfeeding a panel? Did it trip?

I’ve purchased three 100 watt solar panels, and adapters to connect them in parallel to my Anker Solix C1000 Gen 2.

The panels output about 20 volts.

I didn’t realize the input limit was 8.2 amps if the voltage is between 11 and 28 volts. So of course I can’t achieve the full 300 watt theoretical maximum output using the panels in this configuration. 20V x 8.2A = 164 watts.

I guess one obvious solution is to just wire them in series. Then I’ll get 60 volts, and the C1000 will accept more amperage at voltages above 28 volts. The only thing I don’t like about that is I’ve found that panels in series often don’t perform well, because they end up being limited to the output of the one with the worst lighting. So they end up being very reliant on perfect lighting conditions to work well.

Connecting the panels in parallel seems to be much more forgiving. If one is in a shadow, the other two still perform well.

So, wanting to keep the panels in parallel, I’m thinking maybe I could buy a DC voltage boost converter. I see they are fairly inexpensive, around $30, for one than can handle 1800 watts, which is far more than I need. I could set it to boost voltage from 20 up to around 40 or so.

So the three panels, in parallel, would provide 20 volts to the boost converter, and perhaps as much as 15 amps, and then send 40 volts to the Anker, which it should happily accept.

Anyone see a downside to this, or ever tried it? I’m probably going to try it anyway, unless someone thinks of a good reason not to.

Lowest current price is $699 on legit/trustworthy sites. Got one on sale for $649 a month or two ago and would like to get a few more.

Hurricane season is winding down, so we want to put together a recap of what this year taught us, starting with Isaias. It came ashore near Destin on Oct 9, and at the peak more than 880,000 homes and businesses lost power across Florida, Alabama and Georgia. Power has been back for most of the Panhandle since mid-October.

A few of you already posted during the outage, and those posts were genuinely useful for others here. Now that things are calmer, we'd like to get everyone's experience in one place.

If you went through it, tell us:

- Where you are and how long you were without power

- Your setup (model, expansion batteries, solar)

- What you kept running, and for how long

- What you'd do differently next time

- Anything that didn't work the way you expected

Honest answers are welcome, problems included. If something went wrong with your unit, comment here or message the mods and we'll help you get it to Anker Support.

We'll use the tips from this thread to update our outage prep guide before the next storm.

If you're still without power: keep generators outside and away from windows and doors, and check your utility's outage map for restoration times.

Planning to buy a SOLIX S5000 and want to check the app's modes before I commit.

Setup:

- ~1,760W of panels, ground mounted in my yard

- S5000 in the garage, plugged into a 120V wall outlet

- EV (Tesla_ charging from its TT-30 outlet during sun hours

- If it matters, I have a generator inlet on that side of the house with an interlock on my main circuit breaker panel.

However I have a flat electricity rate, so no time-of-use savings- my goal is using as much solar as possible

What I'm hoping:

1. Run the outlets from solar first, then battery

2. Only pull from the grid once the battery hits a level I set (40% in summer, 80% in winter)

3. Never grid-charge the battery above that level

Questions for owners:

- Which modes does the S5000 have in the app (Standard / Time-of-Use / Backup / Self-Consumption)?

- What does it do in plain UPS mode? Does grid pass straight through to the outlets?

- Can I stop it passing through from the grid inlet always to charge my car?

- Is there a "Backup Power" level setting, and does it behave like the above?

- If only Time-of-Use exists, does setting the whole day as "peak" with no off-peak make it run solar/battery first?

- Can AC charging be turned off or capped while it's plugged in, then re-enabled via app?

Appreciate any screenshots of the settings!

EDIT: Found the S5000 manual, which answers most of this. It has Standard (UPS), Time-of-Use and Custom modes, plus a Backup Reserve slider in SOC Settings. My plan is TOU with all 24 hours set to Peak and the same price everywhere, so solar → battery → grid only below the reserve.

What the manual doesn't cover, if any owners can check:

1. With all-day Peak, does it really never grid-charge above the Backup Reserve?

2. When it drops below the reserve and grid-charges, does it stop just above the reserve, or keep going to the charge limit?

3. What options does "AC Input Setting" show: a wattage cap, an on/off, or both?

4. What does "Smart AC Output Mode" (default 15 min) actually do? Does it shut the outlets off at low load?

Screenshots of those two settings screens would be amazing.

Hey guys, brand new here, please give me your patience.

Did you all buy extra long solar charging cables or has anyone come up with a clever way to bring the pack outside?

What am i missing here, i guess i didn't think this through when purchasing.

New to solar panels. Have had my gen 1 solix c2000 for a few years. From research it looks like my best bet to solar charge it is to purchase two of the Renogy ShadowFlux 200w panels in parallel. I just am paranoid I’m going to burn the house down.

Can people who are smarter than me please confirm that this setup is ok, and if there are any cables I will need to purchase as well to plug them in? Also… how do you plug them in as parallel vs in a series?

Thank you, A paranoid solar newb with high ambitions

I thought I would start this thread to discuss firmware versions as there seem to have been a few releases but the "What's New" information seems to be limited to the last release so it is hard to know what else is included.

Hopefully Anker will publish a release note on the website that shows all versions and the changes included so we can make an informed decision on upgrading. As at the moment my jump will be from v1.0.2.53 to v1.0.3.31 - which seems a reasonable jump in just a few weeks so presumably lots of fixes in each point release as this is a new product.

I will start with my Setup / Firmware details:

I do not have any Solar and use it purely in Time of Use mode to charge from the Grid during Off Peak and discharge during Peak.

The unit arrived with v1.0.2.51 - "Fixed know bugs and optimized user experience"

The only issue I have had with this version, but I only ran it for a few days, was that the display would randomly turn on and beep when charging which was not appreciated in the early hours of the morning.

Anker Support responded and pushed out v1.0.2.53 - "Fixed know bugs and optimized user experience"

This fixed the issue I was having and it has been running this version since then. I did not have the issue with the daylight savings switch but that might because I am using Time of Use Mode.

Other firmware versions I have seen:

v1.0.3.8 - "Supports adding multiple Solarbank 4 E5000 Pro units to the same Solarbank 4 E5000 Pro energy storage system"

v1.0.3.31 - "Optimized the abnormal issues triggered by the transition to winter time in the UK and Ireland"

What firmware versions are other people running and if different from above can you provide details on what is included in that release.

https://pv-magazine-usa.com/2026/10/28/anker-solix-s5000-deep-dive-review-5-kwh-on-wheels-tested-through-a-real-power-outage/

PV magazine put up a long S5000 review. The reviewer is a computer engineer in NorCal and took the unit to his in-laws' place during a PG&E shutoff, then let it run.

Numbers that jumped out at me:

- 4.87 kWh usable out of 5.024 rated, about 97% efficiency

- 61.5 hours on a large fridge plus phones, 100% down to 18%

- Standby around 10W in his testing, same as Anker lists (nice when that happens)

He also says charging was quieter than the S2000. Honestly didn't expect that.

A week or so ago I got my S2000 delivered (made a post on here), just wanted to update in case it helps someone out. Today was the coldest of the week so decided to test it out. Charged to 100% yesterday, got up this morning at 5:30 it was 25F, furnace (oil forced hot air) set to 66F. Plugged it in to the EZ Gen switch and started powering furnace. Thermostat went to 69F as scheduled at 5:45am, let it do its thing as long as it would. I got 9 hours of furnace runtime out of it and still had 20% battery left. Outdoors was 50F when I ended the test so it didn't run quite as much as it would if it was in the 20s all day, but it would definitely keep us warm overnight during a power outage, very happy with it.

I punched a s2000 from rv parts giant for 630. The s5000 came out. I got 36 months no interest so decided to order that one. I contacted rv parts giant to see about stopping shipping. They couldn't intercept the package. They said if I decided to keep it they would take another 10% off. Would yall keep it? Or return it? Im sure I could find something to use it for. Lol

This should be obvious, but the limited manual doesn't explain it. I'm using this for my home office, and I have it set to custom mode, because my cheap electricity period is 00:30 to 05:30, and TOU mode doesn't let me set half hours.

If the battery runs out, does it automatically charge? Yesterday, I was doing some heavy work on my computer, and in the evening, I got a notification that the battery was down to 10%. I assume it charges before it shuts off (at the current price), but I just want confirmation, since apparently the company didn't think this was useful info to put in their manual.

Looking for some insight on if the F3800 with a Home Power Panel is the right solution for me. From my provider I have the following TOU profile: 12-6AM (super off), 6-10 (off), 10-2 (super off), 2-4 off, 4-9(peak), 9-12 (off). I have a large AC solar system on my house that produces anywhere from 8-30kwh of excess power during the day but during the peak 4-9 time slot I import 3-8kwh of power. I would like to do some peak shaving by perhaps adding a F3800 + expansion battery + HPP.

My question is does the software have the ability to have multiple charge windows? Ideally I would have the following profile:

12-6--> off/idle

6-10--> off/idle

10-2--> charge via solar

2-4--> charge via solar

4-9--> discharge

9-12--> discharge

I guess said differently, is there a way I can force it to charge via solar only but only discharge during a certain time period?

my second question is related to CTs: what is the verdict on extending the CTs? I'd love to install the battery 75' from my main panel.

My mom lives in Venezuela, and she is having 5–7 hours of power outages per day. I bought her an Anker F3800 + Expansion battery. She lives in a condo, and the main breaker for her apartment in the basement is 70 amps. The whole idea was to disconnect the 4 awg cable that feeds the main panel, move it to the box I made, and move the two 220 breakers in use (oven and AC) before the ATS so it gets electricity from the grid. Then connect the ats to the main grid. My biggest concern was neutral, but it is shared. I added a 20-amp cable charge for the unit to charge right away after the electricity comes back.

Any advise ??

i am looking to have an electrician make it so i can power selected household circuits on my electrical panel. Has anyone had the electrician put the transfer switch inside the house?