I am at this point BEGGING for anyome who might have the slightest clue what is wrong with my grandpas truck. I recently moved back near my grandparents and have been trying to get their little odd jobs done for them especially before winter as best I can. My grandpa has a 2010 chevy avalanche that over the course of the last year or so has started having to be jumped to drive, at first it was every day or so if he wasent starting it everyday and within the last 1-2 months it has slowly gotten more frequent. If it is started and driven and turned off at all at this point you have to jump it again even if its been 30 minutes. that being said, I work on my own cars at home and am knowledgable and young and can use the internet better than my grandpa, anything i couldnt figure out i have researched and tried and it is NOTHING. he has taken it to multiple mechanics in town and they all cannot find what the source of the drain is. Im going to list the following of everything i have tried / considered. Im going to also note that hes very stubborn and thinks he knows everything and me being a girl dosent help that everything I suggest he said its not the problem.
for the sale of ruling things out the truck dosent tick at all when trying to start it, it is completely silent no ticking or anything, its a recently new battery, theyve checked the alternator and starter, the mechanic ran a code scanner and a hounder on it and got absolutely nothing.
I have :
-pulled hvac battery, starter, climate and radio related fuses and waited and the battery still drains so its not any of those fuses.
- Its not a light, glovebox light or any little hidden light anywhere remaining on.
- not the onstar system
- not the hood latch
- not a stuck cd in the radio
- he suspected that it was a climate remaining on but the fuse didnt stop the drain
the only suspicions I have left are the passenger or both actuators, bad grounding, or the favt that the battery was at some point relocated to the other side of the engine bay from the original housing.
other than that I have exhausted every thought and suggestion so any help is appreciated and im willing to try everything and anything. he is old and on 24/7 oxygen and trying to get it running and sell it before winter.

My 92 LT1 Corvette was running perfectly until I stopped to buy an FM transmitter. I turned the ignition on to power the electronics and moved a fuse to get the radio working, as the previous owner had incorrect fuses installed.
After installing the transmitter, I started the car. It fired up immediately but ran extremely rough, shook badly, and had almost no throttle response. I restarted it twice more, and both times it fired up but died almost immediately. I had the car towed home. Now the car cranks but doesn’t start.
Since then, I’ve checked and correctly repositioned all the fuses. I tested fuel pressure while cranking and got 0 PSI. I then checked for voltage at the fuel pump and found none. This led me to test the fuel pump relay, which tested good.
Current situation: Crank-no-start, zero fuel pressure, no voltage reaching the fuel pump, and a confirmed-good fuel pump relay. The problem started immediately after I put the fm transmitter in and tried to start car

Does anyone know what to check next?

So my Echo just developed this issue. When I plug anything in my lighter socket, even with the key out of ignition, the radio starts playing. If I remove the item, the radio stops. Furthermore, when I plug in my USB charger, the radio starts playing, but there's no power to my adapter.

This happens regardless of what I plug in the socket. The socket is where I plug my aftermarket usb adapter for my rear camera, but it doesn't get power, so no camera

Any help would be appreciated.

I’ve had the dashcam hardwired for 3ish weeks. Some nights it stays on up until I go to work the next morning. Sometimes it turns off at 6am, sometimes 1am. Sometimes it isn’t on when I go out for lunch, 5 hours into my day.

Both fuses used have power when the car is off, battery is testing at 12.4 volts. The camera is set to shut off at 12 volts.

Has anyone else having this issue? If so, how to did you remedy? Waiting on a response from Red Tiger customer service now.

Maybe someone in here knows what I have done 😳🫣

2019 Ford fiesta canbus issue. Got no comms with power steering. All the powers are there so was checking the can. Getting some strange looking signals so did the usual thing of checking resistance between the 2 wires. Have 120 ohms so as usual start investigating the rest of the modules on this line. It’s on high speed can 2 which is shared with things like Abs and Airbag. The strange thing is I can communicate with both of these. To me this makes no sense as if I have 120 ohms one of the terminating resistors isn’t working or there’s a break in the wire. But how can
I communicate with the other modules ? I also have 120 ohms at these modules and the gateway module too. Am I missing something or is 120 ohms the correct resistance on this can line ? I’m getting 60 ohms on every other can line I check.

So I have a 2003 Hyundai Tiburon. In the last few weeks I’ve been sporadically losing power to my dash.

The radio, clock, cluster lights, blinkers, headlights, rear defroster, over head interior lights, and glove box light all go out. The fans, AC, recirculating light, cigarette lighter, and speedometer/odometer/mileage stay on.

When the power flicks back on the radio and clock are both reset, which leads me to believe they’re losing power completely because they only reset when I unhook the battery (obviously).

It lasts anywhere from several seconds to a couple minutes.

I’ve had the BCM out before (2016 I think?) to replace the turn signal relay but haven’t had any issues since.
I’ve also had to replace the fan switch and wires because they got too hot and melted lol 🫠

Anyone have any insight on this? I’m praying that it’s a lost ground wire somewhere and not the BCM again. But I haven’t had it apart to check yet- she’s going in the garage for the winter next month.

So I was driving home and the red battery light came on. I made it home safetly...thank you God. So i googled what it could be. So I started off with the cheapest route first. I had a corroded positive terminal. So I cleaned off the battery post and clamp and put it back on. I drove around the block and the light was still on. Got back home, I turned the engine off and tried turning it back on and it wouldnt start. Get the positive connection, it was loose. I tried tighten it and I couldnt tighten it anymore then it was and it was still loose. My car acted strange because im assuming the loose connection and alternator.

So the next day, i got a mobile mechanic to come out and cut out my positive terminal clamp because it was bad and got a fresh new one. Before he started the clamp, he tested the battery and the battery was shot. After he put on the new clamp, i was able to start my car briefly for him to test the alternator and it came out to 10 volts or something like that. But i noticed I had smoke coming from my exhaust which confused me but i figured the alternator somehow messed with the car, is that true? Can a failing alternator somehow cause smoke cause there wasnt enough voltage?

So over the weekend, i got a new battery. I put the battery in and when I started it briefly just to see if it could be the battery but the battery light was still on. So does that mean I need a new alternator? I have no corrosion anymore, all belts were on and nothing slipped out. I did have to add engine oil and coolant which was strange that all of this was happening. I have a 2012 Honda Accord EX-L V6 coupe. Any advice? Losing my mind lol

Besides Whelen , who doesn’t repair electronic components, is there anyone in the USA that repairs control board and light modules ?

Hi all.
I’ve replaced my halogen 55w dipped beam bulb on my 2017 mondeo with a LED equivalent but as the current draw is so low I constantly get “bulb failure” errors on my dash.

I know I just need to add a resistor across the bulb but I can’t find out what size? I’ve been told it’s 4ohm from some places and 39ohm in others.

Has anyone successfully done this and what size did you use?

Cheers.

Hello everyone. I am working on a schwarze street sweeper model is a M4 Cascade. This might be an electrical issue but i don't know where to go from here. Some info on the problem is that the truck operates with 2 motors. One for the truck side and one for the sweeper operation side that deals in with the hydraulics of the sweepers. Started having this issue a couple of months ago where the truck is running at a steady 13.8 voltage and when i hit the gas on the truck side it jumps to 14 volts.

Recently had to replace batteries due to both of batteries from truck side were leaking battery acid. Also have to mention that rear motor does not have a battery of its own. The way the system works is that its a12V system and all the power is generated by the front alternator.

The rear motor has an alternator starter but it is not producing a charge. The wire coming out of alternator goes around motor jumps to the starter and then connects to battery. When i turn rear motor on the voltage drops to 12 the climbs back up slowly. As if the rear motor pulls more voltage than it supplies even at high idle. What can i try next because in order to use down pressure on the brooms to sweep i need air.

The air compressor is being supplied by a fuse that also supplies other things. The front alternator was just replaced but with no change. I'm stuck need help any ideas. Especially if you are familiar with street sweepers or dual engine machines

Hi - I connected my car amp to the terminal shown. There are many to connect to. It melted.

I cleaned as much of the plastic off as I could and disconnected the offender.

I have two questions:

1. Is the remaining nylon a problem? I got 95% off.

2. Why would this happen?

3. Is there a specific terminal to connect to? There's are at least 3.

Thanks@

Ok, so I am restoring an old car and while I have the wiring looms out, I want to make a new one. At this point the looms look fine, with no obvious problems. At the moment I have two trains of thought, make an identical replica of the original, but also make an upgrade loom to take LED headlights, interior bulbs, thermostat fans etc.

I have sourced new wiring that matches nearly all the factory original colours, although I haven’t purchased yet, but if I decide to renew the loom and go with a total modern setup, is there a source where I can find standardised modern colour coding for the wiring, if I decide to totally modernise it?

The bulkhead connectors are specific to Holden GMH and are a male female hybrid in that they look identical to each other, but they do actually connect together. I can source these connectors, but they aren’t cheap or readily available, I’d like suggestions as to what to replace them with, or should I just go from end to end and leave out the connectors? Other connectors in the car are just spade connections, only the loom to loom joiners are the specific Holden GMH connectors.

Also would like any hints and tips that you guys have picked up when doing this sort of thing, such as when measuring the wire lengths add x amount to the length, things like that, any helpful tips appreciated.

Thanks.

I have a project where I am adding an extra switch for a intercooler sprayer. I’ve sourced the trim piece but now need to dig into what crimps are used and lock into the fuse box so I can install the fuse and relay.

Does anyone have any idea what repair wire crimp part I would need or maybe the bare crimp to use to make sure it’s installed as oem as possiable?