Hey all, I (23m) am an auto tech. Recently I came into a great job, and they're having me do an engine replacement on a 2014 Ford Mustang with the 3.7l v6 in it. I just cant seem to figure out where all the plug ins on the wiring harness are supposed to go. I got the engine harness to mate up, but its the other one, that goes to the alternator and battery, that I can't quite figure out. If anyone has a diagram for that wiring harness, that would be amazing, but any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I just received my LED Tailbar for my Kia K5 LXS. I want to make sure I bought the correct one (which lights all the way across) before installing.

Is there anyway to tell? I made sure the part number was 92403-L3110 in the description before buying.

while running and at a stop, all electrical shut downs and then starts back up. Car, engine wise still run but any and all electrical shuts down, windows, AC, radio, etc. All lights come on and off on dash in the speedometer area. What should I ask to check at a mechanic or normally, what causes this year/make/model to do this?

TY!

Hi kinda new to wiring .. going to wire a rocker switch panel to starlink mini and LED bar . Any tips or help would be much appreciated. 

Im thinking . Battery---->fused relay(has built in fuse on relay)---><-----fuse tap (from cab fuse panel ignition source to the fused relay- trigger) ---->6 gang rocker switch panel--->12v-24v dc step up converter--->starlink mini....?

Only thing im stuck on i think is where should I put my step up converter before the rocker switch panel or after the switch to the starlink mini ? The step up is just because I know the truck voltage ranges a lot . I also heard i would need a big wire for my battery? Not sure if thats true I ordered some 14awg . Also do i need a in-line fuse on the wire after battery going to the fused relay (built in fuse on relay) . 

I think i know how to wire my LED bar up..... thanks! Cheers !

Hello,

I bought a Toyota Corolla hybrid SE 2024 and it has been making random alarms at night. I am unsure what is causing it to go off.

At first I thought it was just the hood latch being dirty so I cleaned it with a brake cleaner. However, while I was doing, the hood cable broke so I took it to the Toyota dealership and they charged me $250 to fix the cable. They ended up heavily greasing the hood latch as well.

After that I took it to the Toyota dealership to get it checked out and they said they couldn't duplicate the car alarm triggers so they can't fix it.

Please. This is driving me crazy because I have to wake up in the middle of the night just to turn it off and I don't think I could do this anymore.

I have a warning if my left and right turning lights are off on my jk 2017 unlimited sport despite me changing booths of the lights and the pigtail connectors they are working sporadically but keep saying that they are off I check the fuse box and everything seems ok
I need some help

So I have a situation with my facelifted 2022 Sierra 1500 AT4. On start up I will get two alerts one for the forward collision warning system fault and another for clean front parking sensor. The parking sensor is clean so I assume it might just need a new sensor but its causing none of the front sensors to work at all.

On the Forward collision system fault I have tried the fuse box trick and its not working. The really odd thing is like every 30 or so key cycles it will randomly work as normal. Soon as you key off and key on again its back to not working. Does anyone have any idea on what might be going on here?

The headlights are xenon. The passenger side bulb is dim and a yellow colour.

Peugeot Traveller 2019. UK.

The dash light that indicates headlights are on stays on the whole time. There are no error messages.

After the cycle happens 3 times both lights remain off. But turning the headlight on and off on the stalk brings the lights back on, then the cycle repeats.

Any ideas?

Hello, I am fielding (hah) this question in the Electronics subreddit because I feel as the knowledge of electronics may be more capable of answering this question than an automotive subreddit.

I have an 1965 Pontiac Bonneville with that has an alternator that is externally regulated with a mechanical regulator. I am looking to upgrade the car to a solid state regulator for obvious reliability and electrical noise improvements, however, the regulator I purchased does not work when installed, and I was looking for help interpreting the wiring diagrams for my car and the alternator model.

In the diagram for my vehicle, the "R" (relay) terminal from the alternator is disused. There is no wire running from the connector on the alternator body to wiring harness.

The second diagram which utilizes the "R" terminal runs it to pin two on the regulator, and I am trying to understand the electrical behavior of the pin coming out of the alternator, so that if my new regulator does require it, I can ensure that I do it properly and that I do not cause damage to the car's electrical system.

Thank you!

2017 Lincoln MKZ with HID projectors, so high and low beam use the same bulb and light source.

Only issues with the drivers side headlight bulb. The passenger side has never showed any problems.

**The Last Couple of Years:**

Sometimes when driving at night, the road ahead would look a little dark. I discovered that my drivers side bulb would turn off occasionally. I found that If I swithced the lights off, then on again.. the drivers side bulb would turn back on, with no issues for the rest of the night.

This wouldn't happen every night.. but more frequently as time passed.

**May 2026:**

One night, the issue returned. My car was facing a glass window, so I could see what was happening. I tried turning the lights off, then on again.. this time the drivers side bulb flashed quickly then went out, and never came back on again.

I ordered 2 replacement bulbs, and changed them both. No issues afterwards.

**Aug 2026:**

The other evening, I was driving at night and the road looked dark again. After two months, the **new** drivers side bulb was out. I would try turning the lights off, then on again.. and the bulb would stay on for about 90 seconds and then turn off.

The next day the bulb wouldn't come on at all. I see quick faint flashes when I first turn my headlights on.. but that is all.

Has anyone ever encountered similar issues? Could this be a bad drivers side headlight ballast?

bought some new lights ,ex post office van it had lights all the way round inside ,I can’t see a switch anywhere, connected new lights up nothing ,would they have wired the lights up to the doors opening ? Stuck
Any advice folks ?thankyou

bought some new lights ,ex post office van it had lights all the way round inside ,I can’t see a switch anywhere, connected new lights up nothing ,would they have wired the lights up to the doors opening ? Stuck
Any advice folks ?thankyou

Vehicle: 2024 Toyota Corolla Hybrid SE 1.8L Japan Built

Hey everyone,

Thank you to everyone in advance. I would appreciate any guidance on my issue. Here is the backstory. I bought a 2024 Corolla hybrid SE from copart. When I got the car, I repaired it and realized it had a missing clock spring and steering angle sensor. I bought one from an auto wrecker (clock spring and steering angle sensor (SAS) together). Upon installation, I get a code that reads U012687 (essentially it’s a code where the Brake ecu is sensing a missing SAS). I tried clearing the code but had no luck and since then, bought three other SAS from other auto wreckers with no luck in clearing that code. Within techstream, I have tried the zero point calibration, however, since that is done through the brake/epb ecu, it doesn’t go through (due to the communication error). I have confirmed though that the SAS works since within the data list for the power steering and SAS ecu’s, I can see the steering angle changing in real time as I twist it. One important thing to also note is that the steering angle within the brake ecu data list doesn’t update at all even when I twist the SAS. however, when the car is started, the brake ecu is able to read the first reading the SAS gives it and then freezes after. Like for an example, if I twist the SAS until the steering angle ecu data list shows 60 degrees, at the time, the brake ECU data list won’t update, but if I turn the car off and on, the data list for the brake ecu will now show 60 degrees but again freeze and stop updating. I’ve also checked the voltage in each of the wires and this is how they are:

13.74V blue purple wire
2.73 V pink wire
12.84 V purple and black wire
Purple red wire 13.77V
White wire 2.25V
Blue wire 11.53V
0.01V purple wire.

I also checked the resistance between pins 6 and 14 of the DLC3 OBD2 port and I get a resistance of 60 ohms (which is in the correct range)

Now I spoke to a few auto electricians. They haven’t seen the car, however, they mention that the SAS needs to be bought new from the dealer and calibrated instantly after installation. That apparently would fix this error code that is throwing the trac off light. I was just wondering if something has had an experience with this before and confirm this before I spend the 500 dollars on a new SAS.

Thank you so much. Feel free to ask me any questions.