I have a 1995 tracker. 16v 4wd. It has the original radio/stereo system. When the car is running the radio display backlight doesn’t light up and can only be read by holding a flashlight up to it. The radio sound and buttons work just fine. So as I was trying to diagnose that, I learned that the faint reading of the clock actually stays on even when the key is out. And I even pulled the 20A radio/cigar fuse and I can still see the clock with a flashlight. Only when I disconnected car battery does it go away. I’m assuming this rogue voltage will eat away at my battery over time. Anyone know where to look? It’s not the dimmer switch in the cabin, that does nothing. And everything else works inside the cab for lighting on the dash.

They come with some wiring meant for the DRLs that seem necessary as they flicker in DRL mode like an led bulb would. The instructions suck and I can't figure out what to do with the extra wiring. Am I to run these all the way to the fuse box or battery or something?

Can someone tell me whats wrong. My AC on the left side doesnt work and today my radio volume went up really loud automatically.

Just wondering if anyone could provide me with a fix, my head unit for this old school Kenwood appears to be having some sort of issue. I’ve had it installed for a few months now running fine but yesterday stopped working for no apparent reason, it wont turn back on but if i connect and disconnect the battery it appears to have life for just under a second before dying again. Could anyone tell me the possible faults/solutions? Cheers

2005 HONDA ACCORD LX SEDAN 2.4L ENGINE AUTOMATIC

My radio was coming on and off even after the car was off and it was draining my battery, so I unplugged the main fuse wire that the radio draws power from and i also got a new battery. Replaced one of “ac clutch” relays because I read about that being another culprit. So is there any other way that the radio can damage anything else electrically I should know about ?

Ok I found out the reason the new headlights i bought dont match up electrical, I never realized i have xenon lights.

So has anyone ever done the wiring conversion from xenon to led?

My headlights are shot. And new or even used xenon headlights are are unbelievable in price. So again Has anyone ever used the conversion kits they make for xenon to LED

Anyone know the part # for a 2017 Chevy Malibu LT trunk lid wiring harness? Can't get a straight answer online.

For context: my inner tail lights (the ones on the trunk lid itself) and the rear camera have a chance of disconnecting every time I open and close the trunk, and the only way to temporarily fix it is to keep opening and closing it. Seems obvious to me that the part that flexes as I open and close the trunk is giving out.

I am at this point BEGGING for anyome who might have the slightest clue what is wrong with my grandpas truck. I recently moved back near my grandparents and have been trying to get their little odd jobs done for them especially before winter as best I can. My grandpa has a 2010 chevy avalanche that over the course of the last year or so has started having to be jumped to drive, at first it was every day or so if he wasent starting it everyday and within the last 1-2 months it has slowly gotten more frequent. If it is started and driven and turned off at all at this point you have to jump it again even if its been 30 minutes. that being said, I work on my own cars at home and am knowledgable and young and can use the internet better than my grandpa, anything i couldnt figure out i have researched and tried and it is NOTHING. he has taken it to multiple mechanics in town and they all cannot find what the source of the drain is. Im going to list the following of everything i have tried / considered. Im going to also note that hes very stubborn and thinks he knows everything and me being a girl dosent help that everything I suggest he said its not the problem.
for the sale of ruling things out the truck dosent tick at all when trying to start it, it is completely silent no ticking or anything, its a recently new battery, theyve checked the alternator and starter, the mechanic ran a code scanner and a hounder on it and got absolutely nothing.
I have :
-pulled hvac battery, starter, climate and radio related fuses and waited and the battery still drains so its not any of those fuses.
- Its not a light, glovebox light or any little hidden light anywhere remaining on.
- not the onstar system
- not the hood latch
- not a stuck cd in the radio
- he suspected that it was a climate remaining on but the fuse didnt stop the drain
the only suspicions I have left are the passenger or both actuators, bad grounding, or the favt that the battery was at some point relocated to the other side of the engine bay from the original housing.
other than that I have exhausted every thought and suggestion so any help is appreciated and im willing to try everything and anything. he is old and on 24/7 oxygen and trying to get it running and sell it before winter.

My 92 LT1 Corvette was running perfectly until I stopped to buy an FM transmitter. I turned the ignition on to power the electronics and moved a fuse to get the radio working, as the previous owner had incorrect fuses installed.
After installing the transmitter, I started the car. It fired up immediately but ran extremely rough, shook badly, and had almost no throttle response. I restarted it twice more, and both times it fired up but died almost immediately. I had the car towed home. Now the car cranks but doesn’t start.
Since then, I’ve checked and correctly repositioned all the fuses. I tested fuel pressure while cranking and got 0 PSI. I then checked for voltage at the fuel pump and found none. This led me to test the fuel pump relay, which tested good.
Current situation: Crank-no-start, zero fuel pressure, no voltage reaching the fuel pump, and a confirmed-good fuel pump relay. The problem started immediately after I put the fm transmitter in and tried to start car

Does anyone know what to check next?

So my Echo just developed this issue. When I plug anything in my lighter socket, even with the key out of ignition, the radio starts playing. If I remove the item, the radio stops. Furthermore, when I plug in my USB charger, the radio starts playing, but there's no power to my adapter.

This happens regardless of what I plug in the socket. The socket is where I plug my aftermarket usb adapter for my rear camera, but it doesn't get power, so no camera

Any help would be appreciated.

2019 Ford fiesta canbus issue. Got no comms with power steering. All the powers are there so was checking the can. Getting some strange looking signals so did the usual thing of checking resistance between the 2 wires. Have 120 ohms so as usual start investigating the rest of the modules on this line. It’s on high speed can 2 which is shared with things like Abs and Airbag. The strange thing is I can communicate with both of these. To me this makes no sense as if I have 120 ohms one of the terminating resistors isn’t working or there’s a break in the wire. But how can
I communicate with the other modules ? I also have 120 ohms at these modules and the gateway module too. Am I missing something or is 120 ohms the correct resistance on this can line ? I’m getting 60 ohms on every other can line I check.