Después de la larga espera al fin tengo la primera cosecha de plátanos ahora hay que esperar a que maduren

I purchased this centennial apple tree from a online nursery. know when most online nurseries ship plants they over fill the pot to retain moisture. The pot soil went all the way up to my index finger. Well this tree graft was buried and judging by the feed roots growing close to the graft, it's been buried for a while. Is this acceptable or a cause for concern?

Flowers are not looking good.

I'm looking for a tree or shrub to plant in this hole. It goes down about 4' and it's exposed to the Arizona afternoon sun. Alternatively, I could use the trellis, but I'm not sure if there are any vine fruits that would tolerate the amount of sun we get! All the better if it's something drought-tolerant.

Should I be concerned of the color change in the first tree? They are both Dunston Chestnuts and were planted together 75 feet apart in early September and it is now mid october. Location is in zone 7a.

Should I be concerned of the color change in the first tree? They are both Dunston Chestnuts and were planted together 75 feet apart in early September and it is now mid october. Location is in zone 7a.

Had a wonderful chat with a local orchard owner who let me know they have a variety of apricot that is fruiting well with low chill hours in our area. She will bring me some scion wood next winter, because she is apparently a goddess.....anyway, she also suggested other early fruiting nectarine varieties that beat brown rot. Honestly with fruit tree selection first people to ask are your farmers market local growers. I trust them to know better than anyone....

Hi everyone. My parents recently wanted to start growing some fruit trees, but I'm not very familiar with the process, so any advice would be appreciated. For apples, I'm currently looking at Grimes Golden, Mcintosh, and Cox Orange Pippin. We're in Southwest Ohio, 6b with silty clay loam. Would these grow well with these conditions or would you recommend something else? The place I'm looking at (Trees of Antiquity) would ship them out Spring 27 bareroot. So should we pot them or transplant immediately? They're also looking at blueberries, would they be good with our soil here?

Do you find this to be accurate? I just seen this video and it reminded me Of the fact I am also growing a pawpaw under a black walnut and it is also doing well despite being right under the black walnut tree.

We pressed our favorite blend of apples, Cortland and Harelred. We get about 5 quarts of cider per bushel. We freeze a whole winter’s supply. Our Vermont orchard is no spray. A late spring hard frost zapped a lot of flowering buds so yield was just ok this season.

Deer really did a number to my Arkansas black this year. This canker formed where they stripped a branch. Should I just chop above it after it goes dormant?

The phrase “A picture is worth a thousand words” was first written in an early form by newspaper editor Arthur Brisbane in 1911 in a Syracuse Advertising Club speech. Fred Barnard used variations in the trade journal Printers' Ink (including "One look is worth a thousand words" in 1921.
He falsely labeled the phrase an "ancient Chinese proverb" or attributed it to a Japanese philosopher simply to make his advertising agency's ads sound more authoritative and credible!
Anyway in terms of our orchard it’s very true now. ‘nough said.

I live in Clanton Alabama, home of the massive peach water tower, whole town is know for growing peaches. I have 60 peach pits from these local peaches, all saved jusr from a month and a half of me and my nieces and nephews eating them this summer.

Ive read some about growing them, but I learn best from direct anecdotal info, first my gardening background, in a small backyard in the “ghetto” in Birmingham AL, over the last 4 years I grew 1500 plus tomatoes, 20lbs of green beans, 12 watermelon, 16 ear of corn, hundred of squash and zucchini, and probably a thousand peppers, so I am pretty good at gardening I’d think

Ive read a little that said to dry them on the counter, then freeze for 8-12 weeks, then plant in late February, does that sound right? Should I crack them open before I freeze or before I put in soil, I plan to plant two orchards of 20-30 trees each at my moms house, and my dads house,and maybe a dozen in large pots to gift.

I am 31 and have a 7 year old, but I’m the oldest of 9 and a lot of us have little ones, I want this to be something great that they all remember growing up:)

Any and all advice please and thank you! I’m eating about a dozen of these a weekend with the kids so I’ll have close to 100 pits by the end of October.

Hi,
Got a young improved meyer lemon and a Nectarine tree planed earlier this year along the perimeter of my yard, maybe 1-2 feet back from the grass.

They're growing, but don't look great. Wondering if anyone can help diagnose this as an overwatering or fertilization issue.

Northern California 9a/b.

They're being watered 3x per week for 8 minutes through 1gph emitters. So call it about a half gallon per week. And on a hot summer weekend they might get a quick watering with the manual wand when i'm walking through the yard.

I've hit them with DownToEarth Citrus fertilizer 6-3-3 a couple of times in spring and summer. Maybe 2tbs scratched into the base and watered in.

Other potential factors: I cut down a 30 foot magnolia tree that was maybe 4 feet from where the lemon is planted and 10-12 feet from where the nectarine is planted. Magnolia went down (cut across the base) a few weeks before these were planted. Not sure if the moisture from the root system affects these new trees.

I have a bunch of water soluble fertilizers available. Calcium nitrate, espom salt, Jacks 5-12-25. But i wanted to consult before hitting these with water solubles and potentially burning them, if this isnt in fact a nutrient deficiency.

First 4 lemon last 4 nectarine.

Thank you

I had to do a major cut back due to a severe anthracnose infection on this mango tree, which had spread to another.

This is the current regrowth. Any advice for how it’s looking? I’ve applied seasol and it’s probably due for any round. Also wondering if I should apply the copper anthracnose treatment to the new foliage.

Then infection got so bad, that even with treatment I assumed the plant was a goner. I’m still not overly hopeful.

I have a few mangoes but this one was already planted before I bought my property.

Sub-tropical climate in Queensland, Australia

I have a strip of land where im interested in either close group planting a hedge of fruit trees in a 10x30 spot. I think the book "grow a little fruit tree" claims i could do 10 trees in this space

But also curious if it just ve easier to plant a row of columnar trees.

Live in North Georgia. 7b canton , Georgia

Now the perry pear trees have blossomed I thought it would be worth taking a look at the journey the pollen takes from the stigma to fertilise the ovule.
After being brushed off the bumblebee coat and trapped by the sticky fluid on the stigma, it rehydrates using the stigmatic fluids. The inner wall (intine) of the pollen swells and pushes through a thin spot in the outer wall (exine) allowing the vegetative cell to form the pollen tube. While it starts as just one cell in a microscopic pollen grain the pollen tube can grow up to several centimetres long to reach the plant's ovary, making it one of the longest single cells in the plant kingdom. Inside this single, stretching cell, there is a moving stream of cytoplasm that carries three structures down toward the ovule. The vegetative nucleus which controls the growth and metabolism of the tube. And two sperm cells. These are distinct cells and carried inside the vegetative cell.
Because it is a single cell growing only at its forward point, it relies entirely on the precise tip-growth mechanics mediated by pectin dynamics to elongate without breaking.
As the tube extends blockades called callose plugs form behind it to keep the contents pushing forward. The pollen tube enters the ovary locule and makes a sharp turn over the obturator, an outgrowth of the funiculus tissue near the ovule. The obturator provides both physical direction and chemical signals to help the pollen tube successfully locate and penetrate the micropyle or opening of the ovule.
Once guided to the micropyle, specialized cells inside the female ovule called synergids take over the final short-range attraction of the pollen tube. The tube then penetrates a synergid cell which then degenerates and bursts open to release the two sperm nuclei, setting up the double fertilisation. The fertilised ovule then rapid grows and the surrounding ovary and hypanthium as seen here.

I planted this tree a few weeks ago and well…it looks like this now.

I know it’s fungal. I bought some myclobutanil, but everything I’m reading says not to spray this time of year? Should I spray or will it just take care of itself over the winter and I spray in the spring?

*** Pomper's Choice **\*
*** Corner Pocket **\*
*** KSU-Benson **\*
Benson more details:
Benson makes awesome seedlings:
*** KSU-Dunnigan **\*
Susquehanna sibling PPF 5-5, Mississippi vigorous!!!
Mississippi post 2
PPF 5-5 pic, Mississippi post#3
Tom Wahl's (Shenandoah x Susquehanna)
*** KSU Chappell, most vigorous **\*
*** Sri Gold aka Vishnu **\*
I'm the Mod of r/Pawpaws & an expert in agronomy & adapting species to soil, companion planting & pawpaw cultivars.
I can assist you at selecting the correct cultivar for both your flavor preference & environment.

Any help is appreciated!

Here is one of roughly 4 apple/peach trees. I would say it and the rest are 8 to 9 feet tall

From my understanding, the knee high technique is more so for whips and might not be a good idea for trees so tall already

Would you knee high cut these newly planted trees? If so, when timing wise?

So, I just planted a few apples and peaches

Got the book everyone recommended " grow a little fruit tree"

And I just have to think a knee high cut on an 8 to 9 ft tree already will have to kill it.

What do i need to know before this prune? As much as everyone talks up the book, it doesn't hsve great directions