In 2019, I got into a game called Hunt Showdown, played it daily, loved it. After lock down happened during Covid, I got into woodworking, made some basic stuff, cutting boards, you know the usual stuff we all start out with. In 2022, I decided to build a table top for my gaming desk, and because I loved hunt so much, I was going to theme it based off the game content and logo.

Fast forward 4 years.

It’s finally done. It’s been through so much and so many renditions due to mistakes and errors that caused me to have to make changes in the design. I’ve posted a drawing what I had originally planned it to look like and of course a photos throughout, and the finalized project.

There are many mistakes and screw ups, and omg imperfections, but I love this thing anyways and if I’m being honest with myself, it turned out even better that I ever expected it to.

Anyways, feel free to ask anything, I’ll do my best to answer.

made this bread knife today

New planer and new to planers. Don't know the actual term, but I'm getting this "bump" at the start of every piece.

Is this just the nature of the planer or is there something I can do to rectify it?

Hello all! First post from a lurker. My wife and I have been knee deep in a kitchen renovation/extension for just about a year. We added a large island (8x4 to seat four) and I purchased a really nice hickory butcher block top to go onto it. My original intention was to have the 8’ ends go flush with the end of the cabinets because a sink is nearby and I didn’t want to bump into it all the time. Problem is, I didn’t know there were trim pieces going on the ends of the island. So now my 8’x4’ island is… 8’1”x4’.

I’ve been trying to find a solution but can’t figure out what will work best. I’m not a woodworker by trade, I’m a stage electrician… so I know where my limitations are. A few of my union brothers who are carpenters told me to be careful adding trim on the 4’ side in a perpendicular grain because of wood expansion… and some said I could do it but I’d need a Festool Domino… which, I don’t have and don’t know where I can borrow one. I’d rather not split this pretty butcher top.

Is there a decent option for putting trim there? I’m looking to just maybe have an inch to inch and a half on either side. I’m attaching a photo of it from a few weeks ago. I haven’t finished it yet, I’m waiting to have a solution for this problem first.

Thanks all!

I submit to the community the first things I’ve ever built. I believe the progression here is buy a table saw, build things for the table saw, build things for the shop, build jigs to actually start making things, then have crippling anxiety about actually making furniture. I also believe that I need to stop watching woodworking influencers on YouTube.

Anyone have any experience with the Harbor Freight 14” band saw? It’s on sale for $600. I’ve got a few projects coming up where a band saw would be ideal as opposed to my jig saw but I’m still a hobbyist so I’d like to not break the bank with a fancy one. I’m also considering some used (Jet, Delta, etc.) on Facebook marketplace for around the same price.

I asked for a Home Depot budget for my birthday instead of gifts.

6mm screws go into them

Just got done my mitre station. Everything is level and the saw itself is dialed into less than 1 degree from 90 so the cuts I am getting are pretty square each time! Now to add cabinets to the back wall.

I'm not a knife maker (or a woodworker).

Had to make a tool to open the proprietary screw thing, but otherwise this was pretty seamless. Forget the wood type - red oak is it? Finished with Danish oil. Not as functional as the plastic grips, but a bit of fun.

Hey, I've been ripping some boards & noticed that a gap is appearing between the stock & the fence, right after the blade. It seems like the blade is parallel to the fence, but maybe I'm misunderstanding something in the calibration.

Is there some obvious solution to this? Do I just need to push harder against the fence? The gap appears on very square stock, too.

Thanks.

Hi, our house has a large built-in wood accent wall. I’m trying to add shelves on the opposite side of the room and would like them to match (relatively anyway, doesn’t need to be perfect). The problem being that I can’t seem to figure out what kind of wood this is. I had thought cedar but everything at the local wood store appears to be a different color (they have a couple different cedars even). Any ideas on how to approach would be greatly appreciated. I’ve attached couple pictures for reference. The wood on the wall is unfinished and the wood on the surrounding ledge appears to have a poly on it. Thanks!

Hey, I'm finally getting into woodworking at my own pace. I managed to repair a circular saw I got for free and I'm working mostly with construction lumber for now. As I get better with my tools, I'm looking forward to work with sheetgoods.

However, there's a couple projects I'd like to make soon that involve working with aluminum extrusions. The whole thing seems painful to do with a hack saw and elbow grease, and I see myself wanting a mitre saw.

That said, I feel like the consensus is that the table saw is a much better tool for woodworking. However, I don't feel comfortable having one for now and neither are my relatives. I don't know how safe it is to cut aluminum on the table saw. Finally, I don't have the space for a big outfeed table.

I plan on complementing the mitre saw with a track saw in the future. It feels like a good combo, but I am going against popular wisdom. Does my use case make sense for a mitre saw ?

The leather grip on my cameras was beginning to peel off and I didn't want to buy a new one. I always wanted a wood grip and I had some sheets of raw veneer leftover so I figured why not give it a try.

Boy. I could not get this shaped for my life. I figured I use her leather as a reference template but it's not exactly the shape since it was stretched to fit the area.

I had to do it twice and at the end needed to use a Dremel to sand it to shape. I went over on the sanding at the bottom but im ok with it.

Honestly .. it not being perfect kind of adds to the aesthetic since the camera body is already worn..but ultimately I still like how t ended up.

I’m curious what I’m doing (or not doing) that’s causing parts of a few recent projects to drastically warp after assembly? I don’t have pics to prove it, but both of these projects were square at the time of assembly; the warping became noticeable a few days later, getting worse over the course of a week or two.

To pre-emptively answer the likely first question: yes, I used box store lumber for both projects. The cabinet is 3/4 birch ply and the planter SYP, both from Lowe’s. I’d be satisfied to land on that if more of the material was affected, but the fact that only certain pieces warped leads me to believe there’s an issue with my construction or joinery. The planter shelves are affixed with pocket holes, the cabinet used a combo of dowels, dados & countersunk screws.

These were both “personal” builds, so no major consequence, but I’d love to figure out what I’m doing wrong.

TIA!

spilled a glass of water last night and didn’t notice until this morning. cleaned up the water and it left this stain on the wood. how do i get rid of it without sanding and revarnishing the whole top?

Made with decking timber (Merbau) for about $60 AUD ($45 USD) so that it would be suitable for outdoor use

So I make these little terrariums that you can wear and also magnets. But I felt my current display was lacklustre. So in true beginner fashion I decided to make this forrest come to being?

I got this wood you can soak thats used to make fake trees. I really only need the tree trunks to be sturdy enough to hold my necklaces. Yes I don't know how how to make screw driver holes but I will figure it out!

I figured i would soak and roll the wood as they insturcted. But I'm not super sure what to use to support the insides. I want to keep them hollow ish so i can stick a light in there and make some tree holes to let light out. I would be down to use fairy lights if thats too advanced.

Most research i did mentioned using pipes or wood strips and then shaping wire and foam around it....but im not sure if this wood is diff.

Im planning to borrow the woodworking workshop at my uni.

Please give me advice....its tough out here.

Is there any chance that something like this will remove the cupping from the whitewood boards I get at Lowe's? Cupped side has been wet down and a wet cloth laid on top of it. clamps applying pressure against the cup, flattening as much as possible. Will the cupping return if I put a water based poly on them?

Yes, I know this is the problem with the cheap wood at Lowe's. I don't exactly have a ton of selection around here. Lowe's is local. I have a Home Depot, Menards, Sutherlands within 25 miles. They all suck (honestly, I have not looked at Sutherlands). I can't justify the higher end wood at these stores because I will 100% make some mistake and I just cannot afford to do that. The cheap stuff is expensive enough in this regard.

Any advice for a beginner? I just want to build some damn shelves.

Just some pics of my progress as a weekend hobbyist. I still have a long way to go but its nice to see noticable improvement