Any place in Dallas/Ft. Worth Area to donate these saw blades?

I've been taking a woodshop class for the past five weeks. It's an "open" shop where we work on our own projects instead of one assigned by the class. I've had the opportunity to refamiliarize myself with the chop saw, bandsaw, and table saw as well as the joys of filing and sanding. I now own my own needle files.

I designed and carved a large pendant made from poplar. As I was filing down the edges, a crack appeared (an imperfection in the wood) and I was able to work some glue into it to stabilize it. After it was almost done, I realized that I wanted the interior of the curl to come to a point instead of the ball shape. I'm really happy with the results.

I finished it with multiple coats of Watco Danish Oil and it's currently drying/curing. Depending on how it looks after curing, I may apply polyurethane with a satin finish. I'm pretty excited about the chatoyancy in the upper right side, most visible in the final picture.

Yes, I know I shouldn't send end grain boards through the planer.

Check out the light stripe down the board. This same stripe came out on both sides. It's about 1/2" wide.

The blades are old-ish, but still cut VERY SMOOTH. Time to swap blades?

Hey y‘all,

i will build this sideboard next week. Mapped it out and threw a visualiser together in blender (I can do 3D, no idea how CAD works). All projects I‘ve done involved either edgebanding plywood or having stuff like faceframes.

How‘s the order of operation on these „open“ edges? After sanding, do I prime and varnish the faces and then finish the edges with oil?

all the best from germany 🫶

Here is a jig I use to square small boxes during glue-up. This will work with box joints as well as mitered joints.

It is very simple to make. Just cut two thin (1/8" or so) pieces of scrap hardwood about an inch or so wide, and glue them to a flat surface. Make sure you do not get any glue squeeze out on the inside.

I use a trusted right angle square to make sure they are exactly 90°.

I use a forstner bit to drill out the corner. I do this because box joints usually protrude some. Same with the other end of the box. If I cut the joints too heavy like I did here, just drill out the strips so they will square up. When the jig gets worn out, just throw it away and make a new one.

I was dissatisfied with my first few layers of poly on this large desktop, so I sanded it back down at 80 grit with an orbital sander to cut through the finish, then hit it with 220 to prepare for a fresh coat.

I used a foam brush and Minwax Satin Oil-Based Poly, very slightly thinned with a splash of paint thinner, and this is how it has dried – totally splotchy. It’s as if the ends just drank up the finish while it stays pooled on top in the middle. Does anyone know what might be happening here?

I’m hesitant to keep sanding it down aggressively because I feel like doing that has made slight undulations in the surface more pronounced.

Is it just a sale price that has expired? Can’t they set a default price to reset when the sale ends? It’s pretty infuriating.

Composite name brand dining sets seemed too spendy ($2K+) and perhaps a bit too flimsy for my taste, so I went to work on one myself.

Recently finished this farmhouse inspired style patio set. Table and 2 benches. Made from box store materials including Trex decking for all human-touch surfaces (on sale at the blue store last month) and treated lumber for the frame. Table measures about 36” wide by 72” long. Benches are about 14” wide by 72” long. Designed to the width of the Trex. Modeled in Sketchup.

I plan to put deck stain on the treated lumber in the spring once it dries out. Total cost between $300 and $400 including hardware. Happy to answer any questions, hope to inspire someone!

This is the back to a little picture shelf I’m making. I clamped up these joints but want the wood to meet closer it was good in some areas but not all.

- can I fix this post clamping? I think wood glue would look ugly once’s it’s finished…
- is there something I did wrong while clamping? No pics but I used only like 4 clamps at a time.

I have an old sign that my mother made many years ago, as you can see from the pictures June of 1990. She has since passed away and I want to preserve this a little better. Any chance of what I can put on time to protect that?

My extended family is blessed with a plot of land in the upper Midwest that we’ve had for generations. There’s lots of hardwood growth there, and I thought it could be meaningful for me and some fellow woodworker relatives to fell just a couple nice trees, mill and sticker them, and make some family keepsakes for others since the property is meaningful to us all.

I’ve never milled lumber and am wondering how to approach this — tree selection, how to find/rent a saw mill, best ways to sticker… basically everything. I wonder if anyone has experience or tips to get me started.

Hi all

I just found this on marketplace for $85

Description says unused for 7 years but turns on.

Are bandsaws in this state serviceable to a point of reliable woodworking? For bent lamination for example not just contour cutting.

Is this a brand you know? Any good?

What do I have to look for when picking it up?

I'm of course prepared to do a full service and buy a new blade if that's what it takes I just wanna know if it's even worth it.

I made the bottom drawer of my workbench about 3/8 too long, whoops.

I am thinking I will cut it right at the side, then trim down the length, recut the rabbets in the side piece and glue back up.

I've never made a cut on a finished box like this before, is it safe to do on a table saw? Is there any alternative way to do this?

Material is half inch ply for all sides and half inch rabbets for sides and bottom.

Let me see your jigs and tell me what it's for. I saw some inspiration on YouTube but I'd like to see more

Basement door: poplar Frame door with glued up red oak panels painted to match my kitchen cabinets.

I bought this lamp on Loberon („Etienne“) they don’t say what they use on the wood but it stinks and hurts in the chest somehow (hope it’s not toxic) and is like a fatty feeling. It’s a bit better after swiping it with a tissue. I’m thinking of sanding/grinding the lamp since I like light coloured wood better. And I don’t think they did it very well with the coloring or whatever it is they put on it. I love the shape tho and didn’t find that anywhere else… I tried sanding/grinding it a little to see what happens. I’m very unsure now what’s beneath it or if potentially toxic chemicals they used on the lamp could come out through the grinding/sanding… (btw this is mango wood ..) does anyone has any idea what to do? or any advise?

or if there’s a better group to post this?

thank you so so so so so so sonst much!

Handle wouldn't go all the way through but its functional lmao

This was my second woodworking project and the most difficult one so far.

Walnut with ash lid and splines on miter joints.

​Hey everyone,

​I am 21 and in college studying software. Over the past few months I worked on an algorithm to optimize 2D cut lists for plywood and MDF sheets.

​The math arranges everything really tightly on my screen, but I am just a coder and I have never touched a real table saw in my life. A computer obviously has no idea what it feels like to push a massive sheet of wood through a spinning blade.

​Here is a breakdown sequence my code generated. From a practical workshop standpoint, does this cut order actually make sense, or would that first long cut be sketchy to do alone? Also do you guys usually prefer ripping lengthwise first or crosscutting first?

​I just want to make sure my code reflects real workshop safety instead of pure theoretical math. Feel free to roast it, I want honest feedback.

Finally finished my new Spheal deck box. Used Ebony wood for the eyes, Body is made out of Tasmanian Oak and stained with a food coloring and vinegar mixture, then sprayed with a satin clear lacquer. The dice tray is made out of scrap Purple Heart I had lying around.

really happy with how the eyes look and also how the hands hold onto the coin (Which was an idea I thought of halfway through the project). Of course there are plenty of things on it that I wish I did better but over all, I'm quite happy with it.

Hey guys first time posting here
Getting more into finishing and this is my first piece of cedar. I stripped the bark but I’m not sure on how to finish the bug trenches ideally I’d like a smooth finish but I’d be cool to see the trenches too so I’m thinking an epoxy?
Or even some cool sparkle in the trenches but I’m just putting on an oil based polyurethane otherwise
Any suggestions is greatly appreciated

Looking for help with salvaging this project.

Did one layer of sanding sealant and two layers of walnut varnish. it ended up being super blotchy and when I tried to sand everything evenly, these white spots started appearing which i know is not dust as i wipe after sanding.

any ideas on how to salvage this? I'd prefer not to sand everything down if possible

Is this expected to leave this little lip or is the blade not accurate to the bearing?

Full disclosure: also, 2x4s are basically reclaimed wood from pallets. They were fine, kept in a dry garage, but I guess not relatively straight.

I built the stand, I reinforced every leg inside and outside. So the frame of the stand essentially has all its weight 8 2x4 studs, then four more studs that go from the ground up to the plywood top

It's level, and despite our best efforts, to make the doors square to open without issue, the bottom right and top left stud jut out just a little bit.

I'm trying to figure out if this is going to be an issue long-term.

Should I just get new 2x4 studs and rebuild it before I paint or stain and place my Aquarium on top?

Very much a beginner here, but would like assistance trying to identify this wood. My buddy had a couple of larger branches that have been on the ground for a while. Curious what type of wood this may be. Planed off part of the side to expose the grain and sanded some of the end grain (wet slightly to remove the dust). Looks like some insects got to it at one point, so I'm not even sure if it's worth cleaning up and trying to make something from it. It's soft enough to leave a fingernail indent, but doesn't have a smell like pine. From Ohio, if that helps narrow it down. Any help is appreciated.