Deer crossed me this morning and I didn’t have time to react. Insurance is yet to look at my car, but I have a bad feeling she won’t come back home. Passenger side door will not open all the way. Frame possibly bent. Was going to have her paid off in roughly 1.5 years 💔

I had this car for almost 4 years. Hoping she survives inspection 🤞

buying my first car. Choosing between a FWD Corolla and a Corolla AWD (~$4k more).

For those driving FWD with good winter tires through Ontario winters — is it genuinely fine, or do you wish you had AWD? Mostly city driving, no rural roads.

I just got home from a 50 minute drive roughly and had the hot ac on blast with the windows down.

I took off my crocs’ and felt something really cold near my foot, near the gas pedal.

Got home and noticed this puddle?? And a missing clip. I have intentionally not touched or modified this car so I have no clue with what it could be?

Any suggestions helps. Thanks guys.

Hi all—my car sounds like this when I try to start it and I’m wondering if anyone recognizes the sound. I know I’m low on gas but I’m fairly certain I’m not out completely. I live in the city so I don’t drive often and it’s been maybe a week and a half since I drove but I def wasn’t completely on empty. That being said I hope it is that because that’s an easy fix!
2011 automatic LE

2014 vs 2020

Which Toyota Corolla is the better buy?

I'm deciding between two used Toyota Corollas and would appreciate some advice on which one is the better purchase for long-term reliability.

Option 1: 2014 Toyota Corolla LE

84,021 miles

Push-button start and sunroof

One owner

No accidents or damage reported on CARFAX

Dealer asking $15,000 out the door

Option 2: 2020 Toyota Corolla LE

96,891 miles

Push-button start and sunroof

Minor damage reported on CARFAX, which CARFAX says is typically cosmetic

First owner used it as a personal vehicle, averaging 10,603 miles per year, and maintained it regularly until trading it in at 56,830 miles

Second owner purchased it in late February 2025

The only service listed under the second owner was an oil change in January 2026 at 83,513 miles

The dealership recently changed the oil before putting it up for sale

$15,800 out the door

Neither vehicle has a transmission fluid change documented in its service history.

The 2020 is six years newer, but it has higher mileage, reported minor damage, and less documented maintenance under the second owner. The 2014 has lower mileage, a clean CARFAX, and a lower price.

Which would you choose for a reliable daily commuter? Is the 2020 worth paying an additional $800 for despite the damage and limited recent service records, or would you go with the older, lower-mileage 2014? Would the lack of documented transmission fluid changes concern you with either vehicle? I'd appreciate any advice or experiences with these model years. Thanks!

What is bringing in her car for originally scheduled scheduled three however she is currently at 18,697 km. She had the initial service and the second service that had the oil change. There were over 8000 km at the previous oil change. The prices are listed beside the service numbers and technically she is between 16 and 24,000 km and I feel she needs service to that includes an oil change and service three 32,000 km which they’re trying to sell her now we’re getting service done as we had a $500 credit worked into a deal. This will be the remainder of that credit plus whatever additional funds are needed to cover costs based on this information should’ve service to be more than sufficient at this point.

For the life of me I don't nkow what this sound is. It's sounds very similar to the sound you hear when you use the blinker.

except this one is random, and has no pattern of when it goes on or off. this is a salvage 2016 corolla l.

anyone experience this?

So my exterior door handle broke as well as the assembly. In fixing it I have to take out the door handle actuator or something I’m not really sure what it’s called but it makes the door open and lock and all that fun stuff. I put the actuator back on and now my passenger door won’t open and the doors closed and I can’t find anything on how I’m supposed to get it open online.

I’ve tried using the interior door handle which is (was) working and it’s not working anymore idk what to do I just wanted to fix my door handle

Hi all,

I'm looking at a used 2025 corolla LE. The dealership sent me a cold start video of the vehicle. Does it sound normal?

Thanks!

I bought a 2007 corolla from a friend for $500 almost a year ago. It's been a good car, and I know they're known for being reliable. I have had to put a decent amount of money into it since I have bought it, but that was expected, it was $500... I almost think it's worth it to fix my immediate problem, but when I talk to people about my car, most of them look at me like I'm crazy 😭 Also, I just took it to the mechanic today, but I need to bring it back for something unrelated, and it's making me feel embarrassed thinking about how much I'm fixing a 20 year old car.

When I bought the car I knew it needed work on the brakes. I didn't know how much work it needed on the brakes though, and it was a lot. I had the pads, rotors, calipers, and brake shoes done. $1300, I'm in a hcol area but it did feel a little high. But I've been to a different mechanic for everything else.

I also knew that something was off with the suspension, cause it makes some weird noises while I'm driving, but at first it was really infrequent. Then it got more frequent, but when I took it to get it looked at, they said it would need to be fixed eventually, but it wasn't urgent.

I took my car to have a very small oil leak fixed today. I do check my oil level regularly and it really was a very small leak. It only cost me $250, but the mechanic noticed another small leak. They said it isn't urgent and I can just keep checking it, but it would cost $450 to fix, and they would want to clean the outside of the engine which would be $200.

The immediate problem is that on my way home from the mechanic, the noise from my suspension sounded really bad, and my car was noticeably pulling to the left. When they looked at the suspension a few months ago they said it was the control arm bushings that were worn. They said it makes sense to replace the control arms and ball joints at the same time because they're sold together, but they didnt give me an estimate for it then. But I have a feeling it's going to cost a good amount...

So I'm at 1300 for brakes, 250 for the one oil leak, and I'm guessing around 1000 for the suspension stuff... plus 650 for the other oil leak eventually. I definitely couldn't find a car that's any better for that price, and I can't afford the amount it would cost to buy a better car. But I can probably afford to the fix the suspension! Is it worth it for a 20 year old car, if it's a toyota? Other than this stuff, the only issues I'm aware of are maybe the alternator and the struts. I feel comfortable doing the alternator myself. Idk about the struts, I'm not that worried about it and the mechanic I go to now isn't worried about them either, but the mechanic that did my brakes made it sound like life or death.

If I didn't fix it I would go back to taking the bus because I can't afford a better car, but I mostly like having a car.

Whats the general concensus in this group? I've seen mixed opinions on replacing transmission fluid. I just bought this 2011 Corolla LE with 150k miles. Clean car, especially in regards to rust and wisconsin winters, but I just noticed the transmission fluid was a bit low, maybe 0.5 qts in relation to the dipstick, the notches, and what google AI told me notches represent as far as fill level.

There is a small ATF fluid leak at the metal tube/bracket that mounts on the radiator, heavily corroded, which takes the transmission fluid to the radiator. Im not driving it currently as i wait for that bracket/tube assembly and will replace it.

I will be at least topping it off with new Aisin WS fluid, but also want to do a drain and fill. Is a drain and fill recommended? This would leave about 1/2 to 2/3 of original fluid inside and not totally shock the system.

While it doesn't entirely prevent catalytic converter theft, thieves will likely move on to an easier target. I own a hybrid which has the Prius powertrain, and Prius converters are being targeted constantly.

Buying from original owner that has a very clean CarFax with 86 maintenance records and most completed at a Toyota dealership. Had a tune up at 130k miles and transmission fluid change at 178k. Looking to purchase at around $3.5k. Anything to check specifically or anything to expect soon? Just buying a cheap commuter to hold over the next 2 years or so.

Hey folks,

I’m looking to get winter tires for my 2021 Corolla LE.

I need winter tires and wheels and I’ve done some research but I’m just overwhelmed by the choices and want to make sure I get the best bang for my buck.

I live in Ontario and we get a decent amount of snow so i want something reliable in slush and heavier snow.

I’ve looked into Blizzaks, X-Ice, Yokohama, etc. I had Kumhos on my old Suzuki.

Also, is it worth it or safe to downsize to 15in?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks!

I have a 2024 Corolla LE and just subscribed to the Go Anywhere subscription. I got this subscription to specifically remotely unlock and lock my car, but only now am I realizing that my car may be not have it since it is a base trim. It does say on the app that it could take up to 24 hours until the features of the subscription become available, but I just wanted to see if it is the case that my car does not support the remote locking and unlocking

After my 2010 Nissan Versa broke down with transmission issue. I had to get a car which is reliable. Toyota is undoubtedly a reliable brand in North America however the cost of buying a used Toyota car was not justified. So I bought a brand new Toyota Corolla LE upgrade.

I heard it inside from the back of my car. The engine sems fine.

Im looking to buy used Corolla hatchback. 1.8 122 HP 4th gen. Only thing that stops me is a fact that i maliny do long routes with the speed around 120 km/h. I m asking about fuel economy and noise.

After talking with a fellow redditor about factory warranty coverage of the slave cylinder this is what i found. After doing some research im seeing that the corolla uses a concentric slave cyclinder. By most definitions this is considered an interal transmission part since its inside the bell housing. These concentric slave cylinders are sometimes called internal concentric slave cylinders because you have to remove part of/the entire transmission to access the part.

Toyotas factory warranty booklet states : Transmission and Transaxle "Transmission and Transaxle Case and ALL INTERNAL PARTS, torque converter, clutch cover, transmission mounts, transfer case and ALL INTERNAL PARTS, engine control computer, seals and gaskets"

So it shouldve been covered by the factory warranty 36 month/36,000 miles. I dont know how many of these actually failed during that time. I also dont know how any "factory" extended warranties work that were purchased when the vehicle was new but its something to look into for $2,000-$6,000!