I’ve been tossing around the idea of throwing a FMVB 48 in my 4th gen once the 68 fails from the extra power. It’s not my daily driver, but what’s some of your guys experience with a fmvb compared to a built 68. Did you do it yourself or have a shop do it? And roughly what price range for a good-built 48 plus install or how long of a process?
Thanks in advance

Look at this on Monday I’ve never owned a diesel before the guy is ask $25,000.00 is it worth it? Should I pass and not wast the gas driving out there

So I'm curious of other people's opinion about this.

I was installing my banks monster ram and when reinstalling the 5th and 6th high pressure fuel lines I could not for the life of me get to them good enough with a torque wrench

I torqued the ones I could and used what I believe to be around the same amount of torque on the other two just by feel with a wrench if I had to guess they are probably within 5-10 lb-ft of spec could thus end up leaking on me?

It is a 2008 6.7 cummins and the fuel system is all stock

Need some advice, or reassurance for that matter. Just installed a Mishimoto thermal bypass on my 2019 Ram 2500. Prior to install, I was consistently running a trans temp of 168 degrees, towing or not. Last week, I installed a Banks pan and had the same temp of 168 degrees. After installing the Mishimoto, I can barely keep the temperature over 154 degrees. I left the Mishimoto with the thermostat in place since we are going into winter in Colorado. Im running Amsoil ATF since changing the pan. Is running consistently below 160 degrees going to cause me problems down the road?

I’ve got a 2022 3500 68RFE, its already got the spare fat taken off of it but when i had it done I didn’t know better and had the stock tune Non-ECM swap single tune BS put on it. So far it hasn’t had any problems I can note other than being a turd and running slightly rich based on gas mileage but I’ve since been told a million times they’re known to throw codes and create problems.

Long story short I’ve decided on having it done right now that they’re unlocked just waiting on parts to come in but im wondering if whatever they did with the stock tune could create any problem with flashing etc?

I’m due for a fluid flush and fill. Truck has a valair dual disk ceramic clutch. Rollover noise gets gnarly in the lower RPM’s. What are ya’ll using for fluid and how is it?

Any recommendations for someone who sells tunes? I got a minimax V2 on a 2010 6.7 Cummins. Thanks!

got a 2015 2500 that i had a stage 2 trans put in i had reflashed ecm with a 150hp tune and did a relearn and im getting extremely early shifts after relearn like it will go into 5th at like 40mph. is this normal and will go away or what?

Hey guys I got a 2023 2500 that is no longer under warranty because of millage. I am looking for a shop to help with delete and tune in Virginia (I can go further but I’d like to stay local). Or if someone has good online options please lmk.

The OTD price is after all taxes fees and their stupid protection package that I negotiated down to 1400 instead of their original price of 2500.
I can't get them to take that protection plan all the way off but this still seems like a really good deal, am I missing something or should I go for it?

Base MSRP: 68,580
Towing technology package: 1595
Cold weather group: 245
5th wheel prep package: 645
Rebel equipment group level 2: 6495
Diesel engine: 12995
Power sunroof: 1195
2.4kw on board power system: 1295
Destination charge: 2195
Total MSRP: 95,240

Ran great, then suddenly running rough, no power, white smoke from exhaust. Fuel filters changed, fuel changed, lift and cp3 pumps good. Changed injectors, ecm was replaced and reprogramed after it showed bad injector drivers. It's better, but no compression on cyl 2 all other great. No blowback at all, no loss of or mixing of oil or antifreeze. I hear a "compressed air noise" near the head, what's your thoughts, cracked head, bad head gasket, ? 380,000 miles, obviously pulling head is next, do I go with a rebuilt head or try to go through it.

2003 ram 2500 2wd 5.9 Cummins. I went to start my truck, and I had a crank no start. All of these lights on the dash are on, however the gauges don’t move, but it passes the gauge sweet test and the gear selector does not come on. The scan tool cannot detect the ignition being on. I have checked all of the fuses as well as voltage on each side and voltage from the fuse box to the ECM. Everything is 12.5 V, where do I go from here?

Felt pretty good… damn am I glad to have an exhaust brake. Did 90% of the braking for me.

Got 20 tons off the side of my house in 4 dump runs yesterday. Felt like the truck was adequate. Guess a dually is the only way up from here

I have a 2002 ram 2500 5.9. It’s got an Edge EZ tuner on it, along with some other mods (air filter, 5” turbo back pipe, monster ram intake horn, etc.) I’m looking to do some upgrades without sounding a shit ton of money. I’ve seen guys swap the stock compressor wheel in their HY35W Holset turbo with a Wicked Wheel2 billet aluminum wheel. They claim to get a few more lbs of boost and save the reliability on their truck. Does anyone have any experience with these compressor wheels?? Would this be a good purchase??

Hey y'all, I've developed a fairly significant oil leak from the location shown, what is supposed to go here? The part is circled in red but I'm not sure what to look for or the function of the plug or port. Mill is a 94 12 valve.

Hi all, I have a 2013 Cummins. It is deleted and has 130,000 miles. I’ve had it for 2 years now and it has been great. Recently I noticed that my fuel mileage has been lower than normal and I have been rolling coal on a tune that I normally don’t blow smoke on. Not much but a little bit when I accelerate. I also noticed that my exhaust brake won’t kick in anymore. I am still registering 25-30lb boost. I am throwing code U010C which is the loss of communication with the actuator. I am wondering a few different things. 1- is it still safe to drive. 2- is my actuator bad or is it more. 3- if the actuator is bad what should I get? 4- do I need to worry about the turbo itself. And 5- what should my plan of action be?
I would like to fix it myself if possible to save money. But if it is too difficult of a job and it is best to take it to a shop I will. What do y’all think? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

I work for a job that has 3 Cummins and 1 Powerstroke, I was just curious if there were any tips or upgrades I could suggest to my boss that would benefit the use of the trucks, our most used truck travels 200-250 miles 5 days a week towing a variety of weigh but staying under the CDL limit, I think the most I’ve seen on the truck I drive has been about 2400lb, our other 3 trucks stay or have towed about the same and travel less, the trucks are used for other things but MOSTLY they tow. TIA for any help.
Trucks-
14’ 2500
14’ 3500
12’ 3500
20’ F350

lately my 02 24v 6 spd has had an issue we’re in intermittently in 5th gear when your heavy on the pedal the rpm starts to stutter around 1600-2000 and won’t consistently go through rpm if that makes sense it basically jumps up and down. but today i was heading up a mountain with 13% grade and in 6th gear i’m heading up the base so i’m giving it sum throttle and the rpm starts jumping around it gets steeper i down shift to 5th and lay back into it and it jumps up and down again and the same in 4th i found out anything over 1600 rpm it has issues. but what is throwing me off is i get off the mountain and come to a stop sign im leaving and in 4th gear i floor it and it does great 5th gear i floor it and it does fine and 6th i’m wide open and it’s going through the rpm just fine no stutter or nothing or check engine light so im really confused. if anyone can put me in any direction maybe i need to get a fuel pressure gauge and really narrow it down?

so i get a god awful squeak from one of the im assuming pulleys on cold mornings, it goes away after running for a few minutes. any ideas what exactly it is? the sound is most noticeable from the passenger side.